Cabinet Door Edge Profile

[David Nelson1]

I'm in the process of gluing up doors for my kitchen cabinets and came to a realization that I should probably do something to the edges so they don't splinter.

I don't think I want handles of any sorts on the doors because of a few clearances issues between other cabinets. I was thinking of routing a finger grip (see attachment). I'm not sure if I want to do the entire door because I'm worried that the profile will encroach on the Blum hinges.

I've also toyed with the idea to just do the finger pull on the lower corner but don't have a clue on how to ease it in to get a tapered appearance. I would then just chamfer the remaining edges with a 1/16 round over.

This is my first set of doors and to be honest I have never used a router table before. I've had it for years just never used it. Last bit of info I can offer up is I'm working with African Mahogany.

[Tom Ewell]

One solution I used was a cove bit on the backside of the door only at the position needed for the pull.
You can keep whatever 'show' profile you like and virtually hide where the pull is cut.

Another option is to go with push to open/ touch latch hardware and not use any pull cutout

Practice on that router table (maybe with a mockup of one of your doors), once you're used to it you'll find it's a very practical tool.

[Jim Dwight]

If you do this, I would route a little cover, as noted by Tom. I wouldn't do it, however, because it leads to grimy doors. You have things on your hand, you need something in the cabinet, you open it, and the stuff on your hand is now on the door. The pull or know reduces this and transfers the grime to the handle where it is easily cleaned off. Old cabinets without pulls seem to invariably have stains around where you grab the door to open it. Open grained woods are the worst. Plenty of finish would make it easier to clean, however, if you go forward without pulls.

[Tom Ewell]

Design how you like it David, dirt and grime will always be there.
I've seen knob less Scandinavian designs over 60 years in service that look no worse than anything else.
Can always add hardware in the future if need be.

[David Nelson1]

One solution I used was a cove bit on the backside of the door only at the position needed for the pull.
You can keep whatever 'show' profile you like and virtually hide where the pull is cut.

Another option is to go with push to open/ touch latch hardware and not use any pull cutout

Practice on that router table (maybe with a mockup of one of your doors), once you're used to it you'll find it's a very practical tool.


I don't think the push to open will work with blumotion.

[David Nelson1]

Tom are you in St Mary's County?

[Tom Ewell]

Tom are you in St Mary's County?
Yep, for quite a while.

[David Nelson1]

Did you sell a 10/20 drum sander quite a few years back? If so we might know each other LOL

[Tom Ewell]

Did you sell a 10/20 drum sander quite a few years back? If so we might know each other LOL
Nope, have a 22/44 that's still in the shop.

[David L Morse]

I've also toyed with the idea to just do the finger pull on the lower corner but don't have a clue on how to ease it in to get a tapered appearance. I would then just chamfer the remaining edges with a 1/16 round over.

I've done that using this bit:
321327
The finger pull is then hidden on the inside of the door. The outside edges were rounded over, 3/4" on the sides and 1/8" top and bottom.

I don't have pictures of the doors but I did save a setup piece in case I need to do it again:
321328
This would be the view from the inside. I started the profile about an inch from the edge on the actual doors.

[David Nelson1]

There is another fellow that's pretty close to you as a matter of fact I think his property is on the water. Met him and his wife thru SoMD online she does scroll work. Anyway just thought you might know him.

[David Nelson1]

That looks pretty good David! What do you mean 3/4 rounded? Sorry for sounding dense but I just don't have years of experience and terms can sometimes mean different things to some folks. :confused:

[David L Morse]

What do you mean 3/4 rounded?

I meant that I used a 3/4" radius roundover bit to profile the vertical edges. That, however, appears to be wrong information. Looking at the setup piece shown in my previous post I think I actually used a 1/2" radius.
321333
It's been a few years since I built those cabinets but I'm starting to recall something about the 3/4" radius getting too close to the holes for the hinge cups and I had to go smaller.