Grizzly G0513ANV

[Arek Kosinski]

I finally upgraded my stock blade to Timber Wolf 1 inch 2-3 tpn size 131 1/2
My problem is that when i have the guides set properly and spin the wheel by hand, every 2-3 turns of the wheel the blade shifts to the side and rubs against the guide. I checked my wheels for anything that could pssibly cause this but nothing to be found. The only thing that could be causing this is the fact this band saw is not fit to run 1 inch blades?
It took a lot of force to tension this to level 4 on scale. I felt that going any further could damage the saw.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Arek

[glenn bradley]

Timberwolf blades are generally low tension blades. Follow the flutter method (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing.html) recommended on their site. This is the method I use on 3/4" blades without issue. Is the deviation at the weld? If not mark the location and see if it is always the same. If so, is the band damaged at that point? Suffolk had a run of bad welds a few years ago. I would hate to think that they let that slip again. They replaced my defective blades without question back then.

[Arek Kosinski]

I will mark/test if it's the weld. I am curious if the size might be affecting. Is there anyone with this band saw that runs 1 inch blade on it?
Thanks Glenn for your help.
Arek

[glenn bradley]

I will mark/test if it's the weld. I am curious if the size might be affecting. Is there anyone with this band saw that runs 1 inch blade on it?
Thanks Glenn for your help.
Arek

3/4" is the largest I have run but, IIRC I haven't needed to tension it even to half way on the scale. The saw is rated to run a 1" blade. I don't know if the saw still comes with those bothersome metal wings (guards, part of assembly 151 on my G0513X 'tweener' saw) but, they had to go if I wanted to put 3/4" blades on and off with any ease.

[Phillip Gregory]

I finally upgraded my stock blade to Timber Wolf 1 inch 2-3 tpn size 131 1/2
My problem is that when i have the guides set properly and spin the wheel by hand, every 2-3 turns of the wheel the blade shifts to the side and rubs against the guide. I checked my wheels for anything that could pssibly cause this but nothing to be found. The only thing that could be causing this is the fact this band saw is not fit to run 1 inch blades?
It took a lot of force to tension this to level 4 on scale. I felt that going any further could damage the saw.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Arek

The 1" blade is the widest the G0513 series is specified to run. I have a G0513X2 and putting an inch wide blade with aggressive teeth such as yours is a real pain as the saw has just enough room to turn the 90 degrees and carefully wiggle the blade through the upper guard slot. It's easy to bend a blade just a touch doing this and end up with a blade that does what you describe- I speak from experience. I consider 3/4" to be the widest blade that the saw can really handle due to the difficulty of getting the inch blade on and off, unless you are somebody who uses the saw only as a dedicated resaw saw (I do not, the saw is way too handy to do this.) I have found that there's little difference between a 1" 3 tpi and a 1/2" 3 tpi blade other than the 1/2" blade is infinitely easier to install and coil up to hang on the wall. I have run a 1.3 tpi 1" blade and it is nice that it cuts more quickly than the 1/2" 3 tpi but IMHO I only put it on the saw if I am trying to resaw something taller than about 8 inches and really, really need the coarser tooth pitch.

I use the flutter method to tension my blades and in general a 3/8" blade is about a 4-5 on the scale, a 1/2" blade is a 5-6, and an inch blade is an 8 or a fuzz beyond. The saw can tension the inch blade just fine. It doesn't take a "lot" of force to turn the wheel until you get to right around 8.

[Arek Kosinski]

Thanks everyone. I agree one downsize of this bandsaw is the difficulty of replacing the blades :(
I agree that inch might be too much for it so when this blade goes out I'll try 3/4. For now it cut very well. I cut a bunch of Ash logs and it went no problem, i got a washboard effect because turns out
I LEFT THE TENSION BAR ON TWICE, which deformed the tire(s) and now i have a problem of the blade going left and right. Long story short, i have a new tire coming on today that should fix my problem. And the boards I can thus far can be easily planned down when they are dry. I am very impressed with power of this saw and the Timber Wolf blades which cut like magic. It's my first bandsaw so I'm learning what not to do and how to use it, all that good stuff.
Happy Woodworking!!!

[Dave Cav]

I have a G0513X2. A Woodmaster CT 1" blade stays on it all the time. I use it for resaw work, but I also use it a lot like a table saw for some joinery work, smaller rips and an occasional crosscut using a miter gauge. I use my 14" saw for scroll and utility work. If they made a Woodmaster CT in 3/4" I would probably use it, but I don't have too much trouble changing the blades when I need to, although I will agree it's not a lot of fun. Having the slot run 90 degrees, from the front, like on a big Powermatic 82 20" saw, would make more sense.