Slick Handle

[Dave Richards]

Our friend, the chief of the Picture Police, Tyler asked me to make a handle for an old slick he's got. I'm up for something new and excited to give this a go. I've found a good article by Mr. Smalser regarding the fitting of handles into chisel sockets but I'm curious about a couple of other things.

First, this slick is 3" wide and the about 16" long. How long should the handle be? Is there a rule of thumb for this? What about diameter?

B. I suppose hickory would be common but is there a more appropriate wood? I've got some nice white ash although I'd have to glue up a couple of layers. I'm not sure if that would be a good thing.

III. does anyone have pictures of slicks? I'm wondering what sort of profile would be traditional for this handle.

[Steve Jenkins]

Dave some time back i posted a pic of a slick that belonged to my grandad. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11760
The blade is 1-1/2" wide and 14" to the end of the socket. The handle is 12-3/4" long from the end of the socket.

[Jim Becker]

Since I don't know "you know what" about these specifically, I'll just say that what Steve describes makes sense to me. I would think that one would want the handle to be long enough to allow for the forearm to comfortably support the tool as you use it for cleaning and refining a mortise or tenon. (Especially when one-handing it) I find this true with some of my larger turning tools and suspect it's appropriate for the slick. But then again...I could be wrong. ;) Educate me please about how these things are used...

[Mike Weaver]

Dave,
I think that there should be a "comfortable" "ball" on the end since slicks were often pushed with the shoulder if I recall correctly.

Bob Kaune has a nice pic on his web page:
http://www.antique-used-tools.com/white_chisels.htm

Here's another I found:
http://www.toolsrules.com/UNDHILL4Slick.jpg
Perhaps you can judge size based upon the 4" width?

And another:
http://www.thebestthings.com/oldtools/graphics/ch5088.jpg

And, last but not least, MJ Donnelly has a bunch of them. I entered "slick" in as a search term and got several hits - I only looked at the 1st, but it's likely that all have pictures:
http://www.mjdtools.com/cgi-bin/library/searchindex/query.pl?swishindex=%2Fhome%2Fmjdtools%2Fusr%2Floc al%2Fswish-e%2Findex.swish&metaName=Keywords&keywords=slick&detail=yes&maxresults=40

Hope that helps and I hope Mr. Smalser weighs in to correct me before I lead you astray.

Cheers,
-Mike

[Dave Richards]

Thanks for the help, guys. Jim, you and I will certainly get smarter with this. What I know about slicks would fit on the edge of this thing with room to spare.

I did come across something in an interesting old booko called a Museum of Early American Tools by Eric Sloane. It indicates that a slick would be 25 to 34 inches long overall. Attached to the drawing of the slick it says, "Notice curve toward the bevel side" and if you look at the drawing you can see a very subtle convexity to the back in the edge view. It shows the bevel being curved across the width like a scrub plane. I don't know whether or not that curve on the back is a characteristic of all slicks.

On the same page there is also a framing chisel which has a flat back like Tyler's blade but it has a straight edge to the bevel. The book indicates that a framing chisel iron could be similar in size to the slick but with a shorter handle. It also indicates that many of these large old chisels were used without a handle as evidenced by the condition of the "cuff".

The final line in the description in the book says, "Big framing chisels are often misnamed slicks; if the curve is evident, it is a slick; if not, it is a giant framing chisel."

That line now has me wondering what sort of handle to put on this thing and I wonder if it really matters. Tyler said he wants a handle about 12" long so I expect that's what I should do.

Tyler, if you read this, I hope you'll weigh in.

Dave

[Mike Weaver]

<snip>

That line now has me wondering what sort of handle to put on this thing and I wonder if it really matters. Tyler said he wants a handle about 12" long so I expect that's what I should do.

Tyler, if you read this, I hope you'll weigh in.



Dave,
In my humble opinion - if Tyler wants a handle about 12" long, then there's no reason to worry - that's probably what you should do.

Cheers,
-Mike, who doesn't even own a slick:eek: ...yet

[John Shuk]

Doggone it! This is a perfect chance for Tyler to come to the dark side! He dodged the bullet again.

[Dave Richards]

John, I think Tyler would make the leap right now but it sounds as if the poor guy is busier than a one-armed paper hanger. Maybe things will slow down for him come winter. Or else he'll be off cruising near Tahiti again. :D

[Roger Bell]

Here are the three I use.

There is a 24" and a 12" steel rule shown in the photo. (First attempt to post a photo.....your indulgence please).


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23012&stc=1

[Roger Bell]

Here is another photo.



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23013&stc=1

[Martin Hart]

And an offsite picture of one more a Timber Frame Slick; Douglas Mfg. 1902, 3 inch. which I found at http://www.p4a.com/itemsummary/97100.htm. It seems to have a much shorter handle than these other pictures.

[Jim Becker]

Martin, it appears that the handle is nearly gone on that one!! It's only a nub...could it be that someone cut it off for some reason?

[Steve Cox]

In use a slick is generally nestled into the shoulder and then guided with the hands. Simply put, the handle needs to be of a length to make that comfortable for Tyler. Traditionally, unlike chisels, slicks had handles that were removeable so they would store in a tool box. As far as wood goes, most handles wound up being made of whatever wood scraps were available. Therefore, woods like oak, mahogany, ironwood, teak, cocobolo, rosewood, ash, etc would be common. Woods like maple and hickory would be less so.

[Roger Bell]

another pic from a recent tool show.

[Tyler Howell]

Thanks Gents for all the help,
What I really wanted was to get Dave back in the shop after all the intense parenting he's been doing.:rolleyes:

I found this slick in the sub basement of a antique shop, under two boxes in a drawer. I knew it had to see the light of dayagin.
It's going to be a while before it will be put to any honest use. I have signed up for another Neander class and hope to develop some more hand tool skills.
12-18 inches I think would be a good length to start with.
As I said Dave, when you have time. No hurry on this one.;)