Inlace Question?

[Ricc Havens]

I was turning a coffee mug shell for one of those stainless coffee mug liners that Woodcraft sells. The wood is Osage orange. Thought with the taper of the mug that I could get past a bark inclusion. Since I can't get past it - I thought I might try treating it as an accent. I can carve out the soft wood of the inclusion and have a groove that runs along the length of the mug about 1/8"-1/4" wide. (or I can make it wider with the dremel tool)

I have some turquoise colored inlace I thought about using. While I have used inlace on smaller spots on bowls or other decorative items I'm not sure about using it on a mug. Do any of you have any experience with inlace and know if the inlace will be a good thing to use on a wood item that might see daily use? Or am I better off with something like epoxy and coffee grounds for a stronger bond and darker filled crack looking accent?

Will the inlace be a strong enough bond with the wood like epoxy?

Thanks
Ricc Havens

[Brian Kent]

I have not used the inlace resin. if the resin is separate from the powder, just stir the powder into epoxy. That is how I inlay stone.

[Don McClure]

I have used Inlace to fill cracks and defects mainly in bowls and platters. for the last 10 yrs. To date I do opt know of one that has failed. Isisallu I fill the defect leaving it slightly proud then sand it down starting with 180 or 220 sand paper.

[Ricc Havens]

I have not used the inlace resin. if the resin is separate from the powder, just stir the powder into epoxy. That is how I inlay stone.


I should have clarified - the inlace I have isn't the separate powder and resin. it's premixed with there resin and you just add the necessary drops of of the liquid hardener based o amount of resin mix that is used.

Thanks
Ricc

[Brian Kent]

In that case here I am with no knowledge whatsoever :)

[robert baccus]

If the inlace is a 2 part resin it probably is an epoxy. Sure sands better than CA for sure.

[Jim Colombo]

Ricc;
I have used Flex Coat Rod Building Epoxy for exactly what you're doing for years with no problems. I mix the epoxy well, add the in-lace and mix again. I keep adding in-lace until I get the consistency I want. Depending on the size of the gap I'm filling I will either use a toothpick or flux brush to apply the mixture. There really isn't a need to rush because you have about 15 minutes before the epoxy starts to set.

One thing, put a coat of the finish around the area you're filling. This will keep a stain from developing around the filled area.

Jim

[Jim Colombo]

Ricc;
I have used Flex Coat Rod Building Epoxy for exactly what you're doing for years with no problems. I mix the epoxy well, add the in-lace and mix again. I keep adding in-lace until I get the consistency I want. Depending on the size of the gap I'm filling I will either use a toothpick or flux brush to apply the mixture. There really isn't a need to rush because you have about 15 minutes before the epoxy starts to set.

One thing, put a coat of the finish around the area you're filling. This will keep a stain from developing around the filled area.

Jim

I forgot to mention an important step. Make sure you clean the area to be filled of all loose wood. I use a dentist pick.

[Wes Ramsey]

I forgot to mention an important step. Make sure you clean the area to be filled of all loose wood. I use a dentist pick.

I haven't messed with epoxy for inlacing yet. I've only used thin CA glue. For punky wood I find it works well since it soaks in and bonds everything it touches. I've only had 1 crack that opened back up, but I think there may have been some uncured Danish oil in the channel when I did the inlacing. It was also a piece of cherry root and did some serious cracking as it dried so maybe the wood was still wet.