shaper cutter profile recommendation

[Susumu Mori]

Hi all,

I recently acquired a 40mm euro block for my shaper and would like to ask your opinion about "most frequently used" cutter profile.

I need round over shapes with several different diameters, for sure.

Tongue and groove: Should be useful for door frames and back panels. For the width, 6 mm (1/4 inch) is the way to go? Also, there are profiles that can cut chamfer simultaneously, which look nice.

Rail and stile: not sure because there are so many other options with dedicated cutters. What is your experience to cut rail and stile with a euro block for 3/4 inch frames?

Molding: I haven't done much molding for my furniture in the past.....

Other suggestions?

Thank you for your help!

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Susumu, my most frequently used profiles are round overs, a couple of cove profiles, tongue and groove, and a glue joint profile.

I also have a panel raising profile.

Regards, Rod.

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks Rod!

I definitely want to try the glue joint, but I suspect the set up is a bit involving because the center of the cutter height needs to be exactly the center of the stock?

[Rod Sheridan]

Not difficult at all, make an approximate guess, try out a couple of pieces, move the spindle elevation 1/2 the offset and try another couple pieces of scrap.

Since I normally make things standard thicknesses (20mm for example) I keep a scrap as a set up block, no adjustment required............Rod.

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks Rod,

I see. Always use the same thickness.

As for the profile of the glue joint, any suggestions about the serrated or lock-type profiles?

[Mike Schuch]

For round over profiles Grizzley dedicated cutters are a great bargain. I dont remember exactly but it seems like I paid $40 for a cutter with 1/8"radius on one side and 1/4" radius on the other side. I have a second cutter with 2 larger profiles. But I rarely use roundover profiles on my shaper. I usually use a handheld router for round over profiles. I actually have dedicated Stanley hand held routers with 1/8"and 1/4" round over bits for these operations. If Ihad 2000 sticks of the same dimensions to roundover with a 1/4" radius I use my shaper and power feeder. For the one off pieces I find the routers easier. Shapers seem to excell at the big profiles or repetative small profiles. Changing 2 cutters in a head then remounting the head everytime I want to go from 1/8" to 1/4" radius is insanity. It is MUCH easier to just grap the other Stanley router!

I only have cutters for my changeable head for low use profiles. I have a table drop leaf profile male and female set for the one drop table I built. For most everything else I buy Grizzley cutters which work better than changeable profiles for me and come with a very minimal extra cost than a set of changeable cutters.

[John Lankers]

I use the glue joint knife more frequently than other profiles. David Best has excellent setup instructions in his "Unofficial Survival Guide".
You have a Hammer if I remember correctly, that gives you the advantage to set it up for corner joints also. Here is the formula I worked out for the 40 mm profile knife blade height above table
40 - (40-stock thickness)
2

[John Lankers]

Sorry, the formatting is messed up. It should read "40 mm - (40 mm minus stock thickness in mm) numbers in brackets divided by 2"

[Peter Quinn]

I guess it depends on the work you plan to do. I have a couple of cove profiles, a bead cutter with 3 different size beads on one knife that's real handy, a few small panel moldings I like, the passage door cope and stick set which works surprisingly well, a variety of roundovers, a v-bead tongue and groove set for paneling, a base molding cutter. I started with a kit that had a head and a variety of profiles, then bought a second kit used (though most of the cutters in it were new) and have adopted a buy it as I need it strategy since. I check the options, plan he work, buy the knife to get it done. Occasionally I get one from eBay if price is good and it looks useful.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'm with Peter, best way to buy these sets is used as you get a bunch of cutters with the head. Otherwise I'm not a fan of trying to guess what I might need in the future, I'd rather buy the profile I need as I need it.

I've had a few glue joint cutters picked up with stuff over the years but sold most if not all of them. Just couldn't ever find a situation where I really needed them.

good luck,
JeffD

[Susumu Mori]

Thank you all!

I sort of see the point of dedicated cutters for most frequently used patterns.
Anyhow, my Amana Pro came with 6 cutters. I definitely need some more rounder overs and tongue&groove.

I've never used glue joints but seem useful for some hidden panels.
John, did you cut the joint at 45 degree? Can't see well from the pic.

As Jeff and Peter said, I'll then go as I need.

[Susumu Mori]

Hi John,

Can we still get this book by David Best? It seems the link for the purchase is broken....

[David Nelson1]

Send him an Email, all I see all t shirts and a poster.

[John Lankers]

Thank you all!

I sort of see the point of dedicated cutters for most frequently used patterns.
Anyhow, my Amana Pro came with 6 cutters. I definitely need some more rounder overs and tongue&groove.

I've never used glue joints but seem useful for some hidden panels.
John, did you cut the joint at 45 degree? Can't see well from the pic.

As Jeff and Peter said, I'll then go as I need.


This was a test piece, I used the same knife to cut the glue joint for the 45 deg. miter with the cutter head tilted at a 45 deg. angle. I find panel glue ups are extremely easy this way, the joint just pulls tight when you apply clamping pressure and doesn't slide around at all and the time it takes to set up the shaper is well worth it - and the knives are only $20 a set.
Watch this video at 50 minutes in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eV8A3XK3R0I

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks John. This is a good stuff! I remember I saw it a long time ago (I think Rod posted a link) but realized that so many interesting tips in it, like you can use the glue joint cutter like a lock miter cutter.

Somewhere around 1:10, he shaped a long curved rail by a freehand operation. I wonder if that's a bit risky....

[John Lankers]

Thanks John. This is a good stuff! I remember I saw it a long time ago (I think Rod posted a link) but realized that so many interesting tips in it, like you can use the glue joint cutter like a lock miter cutter.

Somewhere around 1:10, he shaped a long curved rail by a freehand operation. I wonder if that's a bit risky....


I'm not at the computer now but I'm sure he is using a guide ring. I watched all the Felder videos at least 10 times before I bought my first machine, just traded my combination machine in for a KF700 S and AD741 that I picked up at the freight depot on Friday :o
I wish there was more useful information regarding shaper setup and use available on the internet, there are a few books being offered on Amazon, though. As a side note: setting up the shaper is a lot easier when using metric measurements IMO.

[Susumu Mori]

Oh, wow. That must be very exciting!
I just got a B3 (and A331 previously) and it'll be at least 10 years away to upgrade it to Felders,,, I guess.

Yes, they used a guide ring and I believe chip limiters. So, I assume it is safe although his hands approached few inches away,,,,

[Peter Quinn]

Somewhere around 1:10, he shaped a long curved rail by a freehand operation. I wonder if that's a bit risky....

Every shaper operation has the potential for risk but in the video they are taking every step to minimize and eliminate the danger. The operator is using a template with a lead in, the curved work hood gives a starting point and keeps hands safely away from the cutter, the cutter is a BG test chip limiting cutter which pretty much eliminates the danger of kick back. If you've ever used a flush trim router bit to mill curved parts to a pattern then using a shaper is a revelation. Surfaces generally come out much smoother. and large cuts are possible in a single pass where a router would deflect badly, chatter, probably require multiple passes. Its truly enlightening the first time you use a shaper to flush trim to a pattern. And its not terribly risky if you take steps to keep things safe. It is also possible to use a power feeder with the same operation, in fact they make special one wheel feeders for the purpose, but the same results can be achieved by removing two wheels from a standard power feeder, centering the remaining wheel in front of the cutter and guiding the work as it progresses.