Unisaw blade elevation problem

[Raymond Seward]

All of a sudden turning the blade elevation wheel became very stiff. I checked the best I could with the table on to ensure nothing was jamming (like sawdust) Blew everything out and sprayed WD40 where the elevation shaft met the bushings....white lithium on the gears to no avail. I dreaded it but took the table off saw nothing of any consequence. Re-cleaned the gear & bushing area.....sprayed the bushings again with WD40....this time everything returned to normal. I thought about changing the bushings (they appear to be bronze) but checked the shaft and there was NO slop where the shaft entered the bushings. Obviously the issue was at the bushings....has anyone experienced this before? Should I replace the bushings? Has anyone ever had to do this? I bought the saw new about 30 years ago and only have had to replace the arbor bearings. Thank you for any input you could provide.
Ray

[Matt Day]

Did you double check that the elevation lock knob wasn't partially engaged?

[Raymond Seward]

Absolutely Matt....Thank you

[mark kosse]

I had this problem and it wasn't in the bushing or gears. It was the arbor bracket shaft that goes through the yoke. It seized for no reason I ever found but no amount of lubrication and manual moving ever fixed it. I had to remove the shaft and put it back in with lube before it moved freely. it wasn't rusty, it just wouldn't move. Spray some silicone dry lube where the shaft passes between the 2 parts of the yoke just to make sure the problems not there.

[Raymond Seward]

Thanks Mark....I'll check that shaft & yoke too.... I appreciate your help :-)

[Scott Hearn]

I bought a used Unisaw with this problem. All it took on mine was a wire brush on the worm and rack teeth to restore it to silky smoothness.

Do yourself a favor and quit spraying petroleum oils/greases up in there. All they do is attract the dust and make things quit working after you start cutting again. What you need is a motorcycle chain wax. I use Amsoil heavy duty metal protector because it's about the same thing. It comes out of the can very thin, it penetrates into the tight areas well. When fully dry it dries to a pretty firm wax and doesn't attract near as much dust. Cleaning things up with WD40 is fine, it'll dry off in short order and is a great cleaner with no silicone.

[Lee Schierer]

I agree, WD-40 is a great cleaner, but a lousy lubricant. Oilite bushings can dry out with time. It is okay to apply regular machine oil to them in moderate amounts and let it soak in. For the gears and worm use paste wax or a dry lube as suggested.

[Martin Wasner]

I disagree with not using grease, at least on the worn gears. Dust clings to the grease and just falls off. I only have to apply grease once in a great while. Yes, I've tried just about everything else, I feel grease gives the best results.

For everything else I like LPS2.

[Bill Orbine]

I don't think you need to replace the bushings.... You should be fine. And I'm fine with using WD-40 (blue/yellow), contrary to the beliefs of others. WD-40 is a very simple periodic maintenance lubricant/water dispersant. How often to use depends on how often you use your saw. Use when needed or if the saw is used daily spritz a little maybe once a week or two and get right back to work!