Kitchen is still coming along….

[Justin Jump]

Well, didn’t make it before the kids started school, so I will have to use the kitchen while school is in, no big deal…..countertops are in, sink is in, refrigerator, and cooktop and oven this weekend…

I plan on starting my drawers first though, to get me some much needed storage. I have a few questions on that…..

First one is simple, any pros and/or cons for 5/8” vs. 1/2“?

At first, I wanted to use Baltic birch, but since it is really fussy with cutting dovetails, and I went through all this work anyways, I want to use solid maple.

Second question, I wanted to use full sides all around, but that means assembling my box before spray, or do most of you just leave the rear of the drawer short, and slide in the bottom after finishing?

Third question – what to use for the finish…shellac, GF Poly, I have a half gallon left over SW Kem Aqua Plus……

Attached are a couple pics right after the countertop installers left.


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[George Bokros]

Water borne poly works well for drawers. No lingering smell and durable.

Kitchen looks good, nice work.

[Jim Dwight]

I agree. My favorite is Resisthane. I would also apply the finish to the completed drawer with the bottom installed. Debris likes to hide in the side to bottom joint and finish there should help seal a hiding place. Plus it's just easier. I'd put at least a couple coats on the inside and at least one on the bottom (3 and 2 would be better).

I use 1/2 Baltic birch (which is really a little under 1/2). I back cut the dovetails so it doesn't splinter badly. I also use 1/2 bb for the bottom of deep drawers that will have heavy things in them and 1/4 for the others. 1/2 seems plenty sturdy to me, even for drawers nearly a foot thick.

[Justin Jump]

I agree. My favorite is Resisthane. I would also apply the finish to the completed drawer with the bottom installed. Debris likes to hide in the side to bottom joint and finish there should help seal a hiding place. Plus it's just easier. I'd put at least a couple coats on the inside and at least one on the bottom (3 and 2 would be better).

I use 1/2 Baltic birch (which is really a little under 1/2). I back cut the dovetails so it doesn't splinter badly. I also use 1/2 bb for the bottom of deep drawers that will have heavy things in them and 1/4 for the others. 1/2 seems plenty sturdy to me, even for drawers nearly a foot thick.


Jim - do you spray the drawers after assembly? Was wondering how you handle the blow back if so.....

[Dave Gagnon]

Looks great! what finish did you use for the face frames?

[Justin Jump]

Looks great! what finish did you use for the face frames?

Two coats of Shellac based BIN Primer, sanded to 320 between coats, the two coats of INSLX Cabinet Coat.

All sprayed with HVLP, the cabinet coat was thinned per Jeff Jewitts procedure in his spray finishing book.

[David Hawxhurst]

is your sprayer adjustable? if so turn down the pressure to help prevent blow back. another method would be assemble the drawer box with no glue or bottom spray finish then disassemble add drawer bottom and glue and reassemble.

both methods of fitting drawer bottoms have been used and both work well. i think its just a matter of preference. the slide the bottom in after gives you the ability to replace it later if it breaks. with that said i've not yet broken a drawer bottom and i can count on one hand the number of people i've heard about a drawer bottom breaking and needing to be replaced.