Block Plane, first one

[aaron green]

The only block plane i have right now is a beater Stanley 102 from the flea market, and its driving me nuts with no adjustment. I'm looking at either the LN 102 or the LN 60 1/2. If i could only have one, which one will be more likely to be more useful?

[Joe Bailey]

I say the 60½ for it's adjustable mouth

[ian maybury]

Just a non expert view, but i'd say it depends on the sort of work you have in mind.

A smaller and lighter plane is perhaps more convenient for knock about trimming and chamfering of edges, but the bigger one with the adjustable mouth has the potential to do duty as something more like a small bevel up smoothing plane. The low angle in the case of the latter may be a little more versatile and suited to end grain trimming (but it's said sometimes that there isn't a lot of difference) in that it can be sharpened to function with a steeper pitch.

The Veritas block planes are worth a look too, they have very good irons (really flat backs) although i've never tried the LN variety. The apron plane is a nice gen purpose small one, the std block plane a good bit wider and heftier, and has an adjustable mouth.

[steven c newman]

Maybe a Vintage block plane?
321024
Millers Falls No. 56B low angle block plane, adjustable mouth. Easy to adjust depth and lateral settings.....

[Dave Cullen]

All planes are adjustable. That one needs a small mallet as an adjustment tool. There's a boss in the casting where you're supposed to tap it.

[Robert Engel]

I agree with Joe, the adjustable mouth is a good feature to have.

I have the 102 its quite handy due to its smaller size.

I also have a pair (Std + LA) of the WoodRiver block planes too and like them a lot.

Have you considered a rabbet block plane? Two tools in 1.

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Aaron and welcome to the Creek. It looks like you have been lurking for a while so you know I always ask where folks call home. If you are in the Pacific Northwest let me know and I may be able to help you master the setting of your #102. You would also have a chance to test drive a few other block planes if you like. If you are not in the Pacific Northwest, you may live close to another member who will be happy to make the same offer.

Here is a post on block planes that includes a very brief adjustment of the #102:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes&p=1513682#post1513682

I have the LN #60-1/2 and like it a lot. Sometimes an old hand injury gives me problems and makes it a bit heavy to hold. That is why my Stanley #60 planes haven't been sold.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I have a Stanley low angle adjustable mouth block plane, similar to the adjustable LN you are looking at. I like it a lot. Not suggesting I would pay what they ask for a block plane, but I like that design a lot.

[Frederick Skelly]

Welcome Aaron!

I have the LN 102 and a Stanley adjustable mouth. Personally, I've never needed to adjust the mouth of my block planes. So I'd save the money and get the 102 over the 60 1/2. In addition, I like my 102 because it's very small. I use it constantly.

But it sounds like you're doing work such that you'd be happier with the 60 1/2. Follow your instinct and go for it.

Aside: The LN rabbet block that Robert mentioned above is only $10 more than the 60 1/2. But I THINK it's fixed mouth. FWIW, Lee Valley (LV) sells a SKEW rabbet block with an adjustable mouth for $219, but that might be more than you wanna spend for a block plane. If so, grab the 60 1/2. You can't possibly go wrong with LN (or LV).

Hope it helps!
Fred

[aaron green]

Wow thanks guys. I love the idea of that millers falls, I have an old millers falls smoother that is my go to. Is that for sale? I live in upstate New York near Rochester, but I appreciate the offer the the help. I'm dying to learn more and don't have any woodworker friends at this point, so if anyone wants some free labor or computer help i'd happily trade it for some lessons

[Frederick Skelly]

I live in upstate New York near Rochester, but I appreciate the offer the the help. I'm dying to learn more and don't have any woodworker friends at this point, so if anyone wants some free labor or computer help i'd happily trade it for some lessons

Seems to me we have a number of members in your general vicinity. You might post asking about that, in order to hook up with them. E.g., start a thread titled "Is anyone near Rochester?" and see what you get.

Just a thought.....
Fred

[steven c newman]

A Don Wilwol is up that way.

[Allan Speers]

I think the LN 60 1/2 is just about the perfect all-around block. I like it even better than the LV, which is a rare thing. It's just the right size, and feels great in the hand. (Also, it's really PURDY ! :) ) If you use one block for both end grain and spot face leveling, then having an adjustable mouth is important.

If you do get one, look into that new after-market, bearing adjuster, sold by the Australian firm "Henry Eckert." It's called "The Howard Adjuster Mk II." There was a recent thread about it. I haven't received mine yet, but those who have are raving about it. - A subtle but important upgrade.

[Zuye Zheng]

Somehow I ended up with a hoard of block planes (many of which my wife doesn't know about yet). I'm ashamed that I don't use them all as much as they deserve, but they do bring a smile to my face.

Anyways, from my experience (some brief) with each, I think the LN 60 1/2 rabbet block plane is the most versatile even with a fixed mouth and if I were to only have one it would probably be that, with the caveat that I have a decent smoothing plane already. This is because I can get just as fine shavings and smooth surfaces as my LN 60 1/2 on most grains including end grain with a sharp blade, but an adjustable mouth definitely helps with tougher grains. But it has the benefit of being able to cut rabbets and clean up tenons as well as other tight spots, although probably not as well as a dedicated moving fillister or shoulder plane. Having a smoothing plane for tougher grains is much more common than the latter specialty planes so having a block plane do double duty for those seems like a good start.

The rabbet block does have some flex if you over tighten the knuckle which doesn't happen on the normal one. The LV skew rabbet has similar benefits and an adjustable mouth but is only open on one side and I find that it takes longer to setup and sharpen since the blade is at a skew. It does have a fence which makes rabbets much easier though.

321070

[Prashun Patel]

The majority will vote for the adjustable mouth.
the minorty will vote for the smaller plane. I have smaller hands and prefer the smaller size.

I rarely adjust the mouths of my planes.

I find the shorter length more versatile.

i have two small, fixed blokcks and one 60 1/2. I never touch the large one.

[Jim Koepke]

Most of my mouth adjustment is done to close the mouth when rounding over corners. When approaching the wood at odd angles it helps to regulate the amount of wood the blade can bite.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Frankly, ANYTHING will be a huge upgrade after a Stanley #102 !!!! :)

Of course, you could go for one of these: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Orange%20Block%20Plane.html

If you are trying to keep costs down, try and get a vintage Stanley #60 1/2 or the Miller Falls/Record equivalent.

If you want to spend more, it is a choice between full size or small block planes. The best two full size are the LN #60 1/2 and the LV DX60. There is a comparison here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

The LV is easier to adjust and has the better blade. The LN is a little more comfortable to hold.

The smaller, fixed mouth block planes are the LN #103, LN#102 and the LV Apron Plane. The #103 is a standard angle bed, while the other two are low angle.

In my opinion, the small, fixed bed block planes should be purchased after the larger, adjustable mouth block planes. Jim makes a valid point about the use of adjustable mouths used at an angle. The small, fixed mouth planes excel at trimming/chamfering edges. I have the LN #103 which has a higher cutting angle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Griggs]

Hey Derek,

How's that compendium of block planes (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/ACompendiumofBlockPlanes.html) write-up coming along? ;)

[Shawn Pixley]

Frankly, ANYTHING will be a huge upgrade after a Stanley #102 !!!! :)

Of course, you could go for one of these: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Orange%20Block%20Plane.html

If you are trying to keep costs down, try and get a vintage Stanley #60 1/2 or the Miller Falls/Record equivalent.

If you want to spend more, it is a choice between full size or small block planes. The best two full size are the LN #60 1/2 and the LV DX60. There is a comparison here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

The LV is easier to adjust and has the better blade. The LN is a little more comfortable to hold.

The smaller, fixed mouth block planes are the LN #103, LN#102 and the LV Apron Plane. The #103 is a standard angle bed, while the other two are low angle.

In my opinion, the small, fixed bed block planes should be purchased after the larger, adjustable mouth block planes. Jim makes a valid point about the use of adjustable mouths used at an angle. The small, fixed mouth planes excel at trimming/chamfering edges. I have the LN #103 which has a higher cutting angle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I don't know, that Orange Block Plane is pretty sweet! It really demonstrates how important the sharpening is.

[Derek Cohen]

Hey Derek,

How's that compendium of block planes (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/ACompendiumofBlockPlanes.html) write-up coming along? ;)

:)

A little bit slower than anticipated ...........

Regards from Perth

Derek

[bridger berdel]

I somehow have accumulated ... ah.... several block planes. I do prefer ones with depth and lateral adjusters and moveable toe plates.

[glenn bradley]

The majority will vote for the adjustable mouth.
the minorty will vote for the smaller plane. I have smaller hands and prefer the smaller size.

I rarely adjust the mouths of my planes.

I find the shorter length more versatile.

i have two small, fixed blokcks and one 60 1/2. I never touch the large one.

I'm with Prashun on this and it may be a hand size thing. I have block planes but, find I reach for the Lee Valley "Apron" plane (which is similar in size to the LN 102) more often than not for block plane jobs. I do have a ball-tail for my low angle block plane and use it sort of like a No.3 at times so in the area of versatility, the adjustable mouth and larger size pay off. For what I consider small work though, a standard block plane is often over-sized for the task for me.

[Allan Speers]

Say, does anyone know if one of the Veritas pm-V11 blades will work in a Lie Lielsen 60 1/2?

If so, that combined with the Howard adjuster upgrade would make a mighty sweet tool.

I'd love a longer-lasting edge, but I dislike the feel of the original LV LABP, and I personally think their new block planes are ridiculously gaudy looking. I don't think I could ever bring myself to buy one of those, despite the performance.