Replacement Switch for Craftsman TS Needed

[Mark Hulette]

I was making a cabinet for a small refrig to keep in my office and right in the middle of running the dadoes, my TS quits! It's an OLD 10" Craftsman that over the years I've basically rebuilt (new motor, new Bies, new switch, etc.). Now the switch I replaced was from Sears (special order) and that has only been about 5-6 years ago with pretty limited use (unfortunately).

Anyone have any suggestions for a decent, yet durable switch that will fit a 1.5 hp saw? If so, where to find such a critter?

Thanks for your help!

[Larry Norton]

Mark, years ago the switch went up in my Delta contractor's saw. I ordered a new one from Delta and used a regular old light switch until I got the new one. I guess you could bypass the switch TEMPORARILY and just plug in the cord to start it, but I don't recommend it. If you go to www.Sears.com (http://www.Sears.com) and found parts, you might be able to order it on line.


Larry

[Scott Loven]

I went to a farm and fleet store and got a switch with a twist in fuse for about $6 or so for mine. If the blade freezes-up in a piece of wood, the fuse at the switch blows before the breaked does. Grizz also has switches. http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/main/189.cfm?
Scott

[Mark Hulette]

you might be able to order it on line.


Larry

Larry- I was going to try that but if my memory serves the replacement switch was $35 + shipping! :eek: :eek: :eek:

I'd like to try to find something a la Rockler or Grizz (aka cheap but workable) :D

Thanks for the reply!

Update-Just completed an order with Grizz- found the switch I needed for $9 + S&H. Not too bad and looks to be a better piece than the OEM replacement! :cool:

[Frankie Hunt]

My old contractors saw came with a very tiny metal toggle switch. I replaced it with a household light switch a long time ago. I had thought this would be a temporary solution until I found a nice switch, however it has worked so well and has held up so long that this became a permanent solution. You need to pay attention to your motor's current rating if you do this.

At the same time I also added an outlet with a long power cable to the bottom of the saw. On this outlet I plug in both my router and the table saw. This makes it real easy to unplug the saw or router when changing blades/bits. Its also nice to have an outlet in the middle of the shop too.

Frankie

[Andrew Ault]

Rockler has an 18 amp "Router Table Switch" that may suit your requirements. Perhaps ones of the more electrically aware members can say whether this would be unsuitable for an induction motor. It is $24.

[Randy Meijer]

Frankie's solution is just fine. Box will cost about a buck and the cover plate a little less. Rocker switches are more expensive than a plain toggle switch which can be had for less than a buck, too. From a safety perspective, I don't like rocker switches as they are too easy to turn on accidently by leaning up against them. The simple toggle switch is better; but still not ideal!! If you have kids around, I would look for a true safety switch. If the shop is an adult only place the toggle switch will probably be OK if you locate it someplace where it won't accidently get activated.

Current capacity should not be a problem. The simple light switch is rated for 15 amps and your 1.5 HP saw will draw somewhere around 10-11 amps.

Decided to rethink my last comment. My TS has a 3/4 HP motor(7 1/2" saw) and the tag says it draws 10 amps. I see that the Grizzly catalog says their 1.5 HP motors draw 20 amps. I have a compressor with a "called" 2 HP motor but it only draws 13.5 amps. Guess you need to be sure you know the amperage of your motor before buying a switch. A simple light switch would "NOT" work for a 20 amp motor!!!

[Mark Hulette]

Thanks for the input guys!! Looks like I'll give Grizzly a try- hopefully this will be the last switch I have to put on this saw before an upgrade! :D

[Don Baer]

I never liked having simple on/off sitches on a piece of rotating machinery. If it were me I'd purchase a 25 amp 115 Volt 2 pole relay and use it in conjuntion with start stop puch buttons. this would prevent an automatic restart of the saw in the event that power is inturupted to the TS.

JMHO

Also keep in mind the simple ON/Off switches do not have proper arc supression to starting and stopping motors and can weld themselves shut, thus rendering themselves usless.

[Bart Leetch]

Have you though about opening the switch up & checking it out I have cleaned up switches & made them work again many times. Sometimes all it takes is popping the contacts apart & cleaning them up with a point file.

[Mark Hulette]

Have you though about opening the switch up & checking it out I have cleaned up switches & made them work again many times. Sometimes all it takes is popping the contacts apart & cleaning them up with a point file.
Bart-
The switch has been "acting up" for a while so I probably just need to replace it anyway.

[Allen Bookout]

I think that the purchase of a switch from Grizzly was a smart buy. I orderd one for my band saw a few months ago from them and it is a quality switch for a good price - much cheaper than from Delta and just as good ---- so far.

[Steve Stube]

Motors (inductive loads) with high starting amps can take a toll on any switch but with that said I have resorted to the following at times as a cheap remedy.

For some 120 volt motor switches I use a double throw, double pole switch (4 way toggle light switch) and pigtail the power in and out thus splitting the amperage half on each side of the 4 pole switch. At lower amperage there is less arcing of the contacts. In a pinch* using this method of splitting the load effectively doubles the current carrying capacity of the switch. It doesn't hurt if your local dollar store sells these 4 pole toggle switches (for $1.00) as they do in my town.

* If you are approaching 30 amps switching current then it is really better to go with a purpose built heavy duty switch, disconnect or relay and switch combination.

[Lee Schierer]

I had switch problems just the other day with my jointer. The switch is a heavy duty light switch that my Dad put on it many years ago. I flipped it on , did my jointing and then tried to turn it off. Flipping the switch did nothing. I ended up having to pull the plug.

I was able to take the switch aprat and found it was packed with sawdust. I cleaned it out, put it back together and it works just fine. Try blowing out your switch with air or taking it apart to clean it if you can. Wooworkers Supply (www.woodworker.com) sells push button, magnetic motor switches and toggle switches for power tools. Prices vary according to amp draw.

[Mark Hulette]

I was able to take the switch aprat and found it was packed with sawdust. I cleaned it out, put it back together and it works just fine. Try blowing out your switch with air or taking it apart to clean it if you can.

Lee-

Tried that. There was a lot of sawdust in it but still no connection!

Thanks!

[Randy Meijer]

.....For some 120 volt motor switches I use a double throw, double pole switch (4 way toggle light switch) and pigtail the power in and out thus splitting the amperage half on each side of the 4 pole switch. At lower amperage there is less arcing of the contacts. In a pinch* using this method of splitting the load effectively doubles the current carrying capacity of the switch...

I have been thinking about this answer for a while and have decided that there seems to be a problem with it. Is there an electrician/engineer out there who can support or contradict my thinking? The problem I see is that if one side of the switch fails to close for some reason, then you are doubling the amperage through the other side of the switch. Lets say you have a load of 25 amps and decide to buy a 15 amp switch because you plan to split the amperage...12.5 amps to each side of the switch......but if one side doesn't close, then the full 25 amps is running through a 15 amp pole which will fry promptly. Probably not a big deal except for some stink. On the other hand, if the pigtails are downsized as well...using the same switch logic...the result would be a burnt conductor and significant fire hazard. Am I seeing the picture correctly or have I missed something?? Thanks.