Renovating Dad's #3 Stanley 24" wood level

[Don Morris]

Restoring is not my bag, but I know you guys and gals do this sort of thing with some regularity, thus I'm writing this post. I just returned from having to clear out the family home. One of the things i found in the basement was my father-in-laws #3 Stanley 24", adjustable wood level. He was the one who got me interested in wwing so I've tried to renovate several of his tools. The wood was in need of refinishing but the brass although dark was hardly dinged, which to me indicated it was well used but still in good condition. I took all the parts out/off, jointed one side, just down to bare wood (cherry). I made sure the fence was at 90 degrees to the table and took the bottom of the level just to bare wood. Following through on that, the wood is now squared and ready to reassemble. There is some sap wood, so I think a stain would be indicated. I know Cherry needs some pre-treatment which I will do. My questions are: what would be the best top coat for the stain, without adding to any thickness or un-eveness of the wood? The next question I have is about the brass end plates and top plate over the sight glass. Since I've thinned the wood slightly, the brass sides will protrude slightly. Can I screw the pieces back in place, then file the brass back to correct thickness and at the last, use some fine sand paper? I'll bet some of you have a better technique in mind. The next concern is how to assure the vertical sight glass is adjusted. There is no spring, as in the horizontal sight glass. Do you line it up as best possible, then press it to place on the points, then secure the top portion while it is still in the correct position? To me, the vertical sight glass doesn't look adjustable. The last concern I have is: I have to confess, I hope I remember the sequence of how the screws, springs, sight glass go back together. When I took it apart, I didn't realize there would be so much to it. Thus, after looking far and wide with no results, can anyone guide me to a "go-by" for reassembly of Stanley adjustable wood planes, just in case I can't get it back together correctly? I'm very concerned I'm going to end up with extra parts after I've tried a dozen or more times. Thanks for any ideas, guidance, suggestions, or references. Creekers are the best, and have a great Labor Day! Don M

[Jim Koepke]

Not sure if it will help, The John Walter book mentions different patent dates that may be of help:

Hosmer's 11/11/1862

Augustuw Stanley & Samuel Chapin 9/10/1867 (adjustment)

Traut's 5/8/1906 (improved adjustment)

J.A. Traut & F.L. Traut's 11/3/1908 (vial frame)

This might be the best hit from my search > Vial replacement Stanley #3 level instructions <:

http://virginiatoolworks.com/2013/11/10/renewed-life-for-my-dads-stanley-level/

Good luck and hope it helps,

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Oops, forgot about this:


The next question I have is about the brass end plates and top plate over the sight glass. Since I've thinned the wood slightly, the brass sides will protrude slightly. Can I screw the pieces back in place, then file the brass back to correct thickness and at the last, use some fine sand paper?

Is it possible to make the mortise for the brass a touch deeper? That would be my first choice.

If you do end up sanding, sand the brass before mounting into the wood.

Good luck and post some pictures if you can.

jtk

[Don Morris]

Jim,

Thanks for sending the reference, that will help a lot. I've deepened the mortise as you suggested and the thickness isn't the problem, it's the width. You're right, somehow I'll have to mark how much to take off when I file...before replacing it on the level. What comes to mind is some sort of lightly scribed line which should make a definitive "goal line" in more ways than one. LOML assures me Dad is smiling about this. Thanks!