What are my options for a cheap shop?

[Stefan Antwarg]

I am beginning to think about the possibility of having a dedicated shop outside of the house. Currently I am using my unfinished basement. It is fine, except it takes away from living space when I finish it. What I am trying to say is that this would need to be cheap, since it is not 100% necessary. I could just leave it in the basement, but I really would prefer to finish the space for an extra room.

So, what type of structure do you think would work well as a shop? I see plenty of adds about steel structures/pole buildings (are they the same?) I guess I could also have a wooden gargage built. Of course, the structure would need to be climate controlled and electrified. What do you think? What are my options?

Also, please give me your opinion about the smallest shop size that you think you could deal with. The smaller the cheaper - but I want it to be comfortable. I have a table saw with an extension to the side, full size drill press, 13"planer, 1 workbench, router table, full size lathe, band saw, sanding station, grinder. In the future, I forsee a dust collector with duct work, and a jointer.

Stefan

[Cecil Arnold]

IMHO you will need something on the order of 24X24' and I think that will start to seem too small after a while. I think it depends on the part of the country as to cost per sq.ft. so you will have to price everyone and judge for yourself.

[Steve Clardy]

Call some pole barn contractors. Price a decent sized building, say 24x30 or some size you think you need.
As always, concrete is extra.
Insulation is extra, etc etc.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Stefan,

About 5 yrs. ago I put up a 24 X 40 pole metal building. I had them put up the outside structure and I did the rest with some friends over a few beers. I sheet rocked most of it except the room where my table saw, bandsaw, etc. is located. I put up wafer board there so I could put in screws to hang things and not worry about sheet rock holes, etc. I wired it, insulated it (12 inches in the attic and 6 inches in the walls) and all the sheet rock with lights, heat and AC for $17,000. I have one room that is 10 X 24 that is just for finishing. Don't want dust or anything in it. The room next to it is the assembly room. The one where the big equipment is of course is where the sawdust is made and the last room is assembly, planing, sanding, etc. The $17,000 is for a completed building including the concrete slab. I think at that time a 24 X 36 was just $3,000 cheaper. Talk to some pole building people. You may be surprised especially if you do all the interior work.

Hope this helps.

Bernie

[Bart Leetch]

If you conservative & organized you can get by with 16' x 24' or a 20' x 24' with a 10' ceiling. If you really want to have more space but not take up more back yard area you'll make it a Gambrel roof so you can put the air compressor, DC & wood storage up stairs.

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Just remember one thing,no matter how big you build it,a year from now you will wish it was bigger.:rolleyes: :cool: :p

[Stefan Antwarg]

Yeah, I understand the bigger is better thing. But if I ever have more money, I could get bigger. I have been used to small shops, so even 24x24 is a huge upgrade for me. I like the idea of building a structure with an upstairs like Bart recommends.

Stefan

[egon reske]

With the list of tools you have mentioned the bigger the better.

Perhaps draw a plan view and layout the tools too give you an idea of working room and separation required. Then go from there.

I like the two story shop idea.

Egon

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I have a 24x24 shop. That is the absolute minimum I would want! I am already dreaming of twice or three times the space :)

[Mike Parzych]

I have a huge 4 stall garage that served as a shop before, but I found the proximity of the "manufacturing" and "finishing" area created a dust problem. So I built a 12' x 24' free standing shop for building only. My major tools are on locking casters so they can be positioned for "using," or "idle" mode, and ergonomically it works out well to have the jointer, planer, and TS all within a small diameter when building.

I've always been a do-it-yourself type guy so I built it on an insulated deck-type frame. I used reclaimed red cedar I got from a deck rebuild job to make 6 large swing windows and the 7' x 24' deck on the front. 2 sets of used sliding patio doors from new door replacement jobs were refaced and hung as swing doors. Made the roof trusses for a ceiling profile that has 2 slopes with a 4' wide middle section that measure 11' high. Lap siding, metal roof, and drywalled inside. The backside set of patio doors leaves a 6' wide opening for access to a possible expansion.

Total cost was $4000. It was a BIG job, but I sure like the approx. $15,000 I saved by doing it myself.

[George Summers]

Mine started life as a 16 x 24 garage package deal at a local lumber yard. I say started because I modified the deal a little bit. First I didn't want to give up interior wall space with a garage door and besides 98% of what I build has to go into a house through a normal door so it must come out of the shop through a normal door, so, I traded the garage door for four additional windows. I added vinyl siding. The package included everything but the floor and cost less than $4000. Because my lot had a grade slope of 36" diagonally, I didn't want to move that much dirt for a concrete pad so I put in 15 concrete piers and used PT lumber for a floor joist system, less than $200. This also gave me a crawl space for storage and for running DC duct and electrical to the table saw. And I did all the rough wiring, insulation and interior walls myself, less than $300 for material. In all, including having an underground electrical drop run from the house by a pro and hook up to my sub panel, I had less than $7000 sunk when I moved in. I have since added 3/4" oak flooring and a couple of window A/Cs and a propane heater. Still less than $8000.

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albur91&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1

George

[Tom Jones III]

I have a similar set of tools as you do, except I have a jointer but no lathe. Currently I am in a 20x20 shop and it feels pretty good. I've also got a dust gorilla with all the ductwork, so that really cuts down on mobility. Still 20x20 is pretty comfortable. With a little forethought, you could really make a space that size work well (such as a small structure outside for the dust gorilla or an upstairs area)

[Bob Noles]

I am beginning to think about the possibility of having a dedicated shop outside of the house. Currently I am using my unfinished basement. It is fine, except it takes away from living space when I finish it. What I am trying to say is that this would need to be cheap, since it is not 100% necessary. I could just leave it in the basement, but I really would prefer to finish the space for an extra room.

So, what type of structure do you think would work well as a shop? I see plenty of adds about steel structures/pole buildings (are they the same?) I guess I could also have a wooden gargage built. Of course, the structure would need to be climate controlled and electrified. What do you think? What are my options?

Also, please give me your opinion about the smallest shop size that you think you could deal with. The smaller the cheaper - but I want it to be comfortable. I have a table saw with an extension to the side, full size drill press, 13"planer, 1 workbench, router table, full size lathe, band saw, sanding station, grinder. In the future, I forsee a dust collector with duct work, and a jointer.

Stefan

Stefan,

I would say that if you are comfortable with your current space, that is the size you need to be thinking about. As far as structure, I have a small 12 1/2 X 17 (ID) shop made of concrete block on a concrete slab with a metal roof. I have Drylocked and painted the walls inside and out. I have put a window AC unit of 8500 btu in and heat during the winter with a small portable electric heater. The shop is well insulated with the block walls and I have insulated the roof and stays very comfortable. I have all the standard full size WW equipment and then some and my shop works out very well because EVERYTHING is mobile and I am an organization freak :eek:

With careful planning it really does not require a huge amount of space for a comfortable shop if budget is a priority. I would think that concrete block construction with a metal roof would be about as inexpensive as one could ask for. Somewhere a short while back I posted a few pics of the exterior of my shop if you want to look under my name for all my posts. Perhaps you can borrow a few ideas from mine if you are interested. I hope to post a pictorial shop tour within the next week or so if you want to watch for it.

Good luck in whatever route you decide to go. I know how frustrating these type of decisions can be.

[Ed Lang]

I know one guy close to me that put up a metal free standing two car carport. $695 installed. He then closed in the ends and the sides. Added windows and a door. Started with a dirt floor then upgraded to crushed stone. Later he will pour concrete or PT wooden floor.

Go as cheap as you need to. I started with a 12X16 shed, then 24X24 and now a 28X32 with a 12' wide shed roof along on side for storage outside but under cover. It is now too small. You will fill up whatever you build.

[Jim Hager]

I have a pole barn building that is my shop. I built it three years ago when we sold our other place and moved a few miles. I have had 3 different shops and still went pole barn style. My first shop was 30x30 and was adequate. Second shop was 30x50 and filled up fast. This one is 36 x 90 and is full as can be but my operation continues to grow. I am considering an add on to store lumber in now.


Pole barn construction is straight forward and durable fairly inexpensive way of getting a roof over your head. Mine is well insulated and is easy to heat and stays tolerable in the summer.

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/0F/BE/10560783-fbf2-014000F0-.jpg

The frame, insulation and siding cost just over 19,000 three years ago. Slab and dirt work was extra of course but I did all that myself as well as the inside of the shop.

Good luck on your choices. Just don't sell yourself short when it comes to size.

[Harry Goodwin]

Insulate it now or never.
Plenty of electic power and outlets.
From my experience or inexperience.
I have a 20 X 28 foot garage that is crowded but I am thankful for that. Harry

[Joe Mioux]

Look at Miracle Trusses.

I built a 16 x 30 steel truss building 15 years ago. The Company was O.D. Funk in Little Rock Arkansas. It was really easy and cheap. I don't know if those trusses are built anymore, but Miracle Truss company is out there.


Back then, concrete work was $1500, building $1500, I don't have figures on electric or heating, because my building had that stuff installed as part of a larger building project.

What about an add on to your garage? Three walls rather than four and property taxes are generally less than with a free standing building.

Joe

[Stefan Antwarg]

Well, based on some of the prices you guys are talking about, it doesn't look like I am going to do it. I can just finish 1/2 of the basement and expand on that if I ever do a dedicated shop. Thanks for the help.

Stefan

[Mike Weaver]

Well, based on some of the prices you guys are talking about, it doesn't look like I am going to do it. I can just finish 1/2 of the basement and expand on that if I ever do a dedicated shop. Thanks for the help.

Stefan

Stefan,
I'm in the same boat - I have 1/2 the basement for now. When I retire (long time from now), I'll "do it right" with a separate bilding and radiant floor heat - I think my climate should be pretty close to yours...:D

Cheers,
-Mike

[Stefan Antwarg]

That's funny Mike, we have the exact same description of where we live. So I guess our climate is similar. Half a basement is better than no basement!

Stefan

[Kelly C. Hanna]

You just gave me a great idea....I am going upstairs with my DC and compressor! For some reason I never thought of that before, I was thinkin' in the addition I will build, but upstairs makes more sense for the drops to the machines from the DC!!

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Does the ceiling height limit your placement options for the DC upstairs? Are you sure you wanna haul a full bag/container down the stairs on a regular basis?

KC

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Yep...it won't work as planned...it's a barn roof and will not be tall enough. I thought about the bags in and out too...guess it'll be in the addition after all.