Blum Undermount Drawer Slides and Inset Drawers

[George Bokros]

I will building some inset drawers and plan to use Blum undermount drawer slides. I see no reason they cannot be used with inset drawers. I have used them on face frame cabinets with overlay drawers with no issues so I know how to size the drawers and the mounting requirements.

Has anyone used them on inset drawers?

Any things I need to be aware of using them on inset drawers vs overlay drawers?

Thanks

[peter gagliardi]

Yep, use them all the time. Be aware however, that once you install the drawer front adjusted exactly the way you like it, that your side gaps will NOT remain exact. They will be close, but the play built into the slide is just that - play. I'm not talking a lot, but at least .010-.015 can be expected. Don't sound like much, but when you get it "perfect" , you know when it ain't . You will have to determine your ideal gap around the front. I know guys that size for 1/8" all around, and to me that is just too much. I personally have settled on a "steenth" or 1/16" . That way, all my doors and drawers can maintain same gap. Some guys really like the "inset" type of locking device, with side adjust. I much prefer the plain Jane version.

[Jamie Buxton]

The inset locking devices help a lot. First, it lets you set the stop position easily. Second, properly adjusted, both slides stop at the same point, so the drawer front doesn't kick sideways just as it stops.

[Peter Quinn]

Use them all the time. Use the inset clips with side to side and front to back adjustment, set the slides back 3/16" past the back of the frame for 1/2" drawer boxes and 5/16" behind the frames for 5/8" drawer boxes. For inset the boxes have to behave like frameless cabs, so either you keep the plywood almost flush to the edge of the frame or install blocking at each slide location, either works for me. We use the Blum prescribed 3/32" gap, 1/16" is way too tight for these sloppy things, the slop shows up quick with gaps that tight, things rub, a little paint build up is big problem. 1/8" gaps look huge, some how once finished 3/32" seems perfect....and that happens to be two shims of Formica, so we keep some Formica scraps around cut into little strips to help gap all the drawer banks!

[Warren Lake]

I use moventos with the adjustable clips. I preloaded the left pushing right and right pushing left, it helps take some slop out. Dont make your drawers flush with the face frame they will never stay flush. Its the way from the old guys and how they were taught and ive looked at furniture over the years that continues to prove them right. They were taught to make a reveal. door gaps I like are .070 or less depending on the shop humidity at the time. The big door gaps they speck out especially on white look crappy. I agree also with the they will never sit the same, you get it very good then push them in and the third time one side is .010 or more to the right so now the left gap is .020 bigger or more whatever the tolerances is they dont hold them tight, the proloading helps and I was told it wont harm the slides and they seem to still slide properly.

[Martin Wasner]

Our shop does almost solely inset cabinets, rarely is anything but Blum hardware used. It works just fine with the 563's. We set the drawers so they have to be adjusted forward just a bit. There's adjustment out, but not in with the fully adjustable locking devices. I don't remember what the set banks are, but Peter's numbers sound about right. Everything is drilled off of jigs, and they don't wear out that quickly.

[Peter Quinn]

Our shop does almost solely inset cabinets, rarely is anything but Blum hardware used. It works just fine with the 563's. We set the drawers so they have to be adjusted forward just a bit. There's adjustment out, but not in with the fully adjustable locking devices. I don't remember what the set banks are, but Peter's numbers sound about right. Everything is drilled off of jigs, and they don't wear out that quickly.

Yea, I said in/out...but Martin is right, its only out, so my numbers start your drawer front a heavy 1/32" behind the frame, so you can back it out to be flush, or leave it in a bit if that is your preference. I keep a 6" combo square set up for this, I like to run stretchers front and back at all drawer slide locations, then set the depth of all the slides with a single screw up front, then install all the screws needed middle and back.

[Bob Cooper]

Old thread I know but....

I assume these measurements change based on how you build the face of the drawer. Right? I normally build a box and attach a face vs have the face be one of the four integral components

[Paul F Franklin]

Yes. If your finished front is 3/4 thick, you move the slide back 3/4 extra to account for it.