Question about storeing planes

[Don Baer]

An old woodworker (my dad) once taught me to never, ever set a plane down on the Iron. always lay it on it's side. Reading thread here I see lots of planes sitting on the iron. Was that an old wives tale of was it "wisdom from the ages."

:confused:

[Richard Wolf]

There is difinitly two schools of thought on the subject. Old times would always say to never put the plane down with the iron down. The problem with this thinking is that leaving the iron exposed on it's side makes it easier to hit with a metal tool thats on the bench. If you place the iron down on the bench how can it get damaged? Maybe your bench may not fair so well, put if you place it down and don't push it, no problem.

Richard

[Roger Bell]

My sixth grade shop teacher and first WW mentor, Nick Oprisu, felt so strongly about this that any student catching another leaving a plane iron-down on the bench was encouraged to rat on that student to him, the teacher. As a reward for "ratting" the tattler would Teach's permission to kick the offending student in the seat of the pants (side of foot...no toe kicks). Naturally, this peer humiliation was a source of great amusement to us ten and eleven year olds...........and a long tradition of regimented tool care was further ingrained in the consciousness of the youth of the day and the leaders of tomorrow.

"For his education and your pleasure"....as I recall.

So what do I do now....................? As one of today's leaders, I have determined that the iron is safer in full contact with the surface of the wood bench than it is on the side where it can be struck by errant metallic objects. I place a very thin wood strip...ruler size...on the bench where I lay the plane or planes in use iron-down and tote-up.

And may heaven help those who fail to comply.

[Harry Goodwin]

I made a parking garage as well with a 1/4" strip running its length and planes always sit with strip bridging the gap. Harry

[Mike Wenzloff]

If I were consistent, I would be able to say I "..." and that would be that.

Reality for me, though, is that I sometimes lay them on their sides, place them sole down on the bench, or on top of some other tool, or part of a general heap of stuff on the bench.

The only thing consistent is I don't nick an iron on anything nor does anything nick the blade.

My shop teacher in junior high had other problems to deal with insofar as I was concerned.

[Alan Turner]

My method, born of fearing a kick in the pants form myself based upon the old adages, is to take the first set of shavings, put them on the bench, and set the plane iron on the shavings. The iron does not touch the bench, and the shavings, curled, are thicker that the blade extends.b

[Steve Wargo]

In total agreement with Alan on this one. I always try to place my planes on some shavings. But if there are no shavings, I place them on the side and I'm mindful of where it is at all time. With a workbench top the size of mine... I really don't have to worry about hitting the iron with anything. Heck sometimes I have to walk for 3 minutes just to go back and pick it up.:D

[Dave Anderson NH]

When I store my planes, they are upright in their cubbyhole in my plane till. When I built the till, I lined all of the bottoms of the cubbys with a cork/rubber pad and glued it in place. In spite of this I retract the iron into the mouth every time a plane is put away. Not only does this protect the cutting edge, but it forces me to set the iron for the appropriate depth of cut each time I use the plane.

In use, I usually prop the toe of the plane up on a small block of wood though sometimes I will leave the plane on its side. To me, the important thing is to protect the cutter from nicks and also avoid leaving a cutting edge exposed to where it will do damage to wood, bench, or flesh. How you do this is your choice and to my way of thinking is not really important.

Someone once told me that the plane on its side method was originated by carpenters working on job sites where there was wer dirt, nails, and other debris with the potential of damaging a cutter laid face down. I can't vouch for the truth of this however, but it seems reasonable.

[Dan Moening]

When I'm in full-on-handplaning mode there isn't much on the bench except shavings...so onto them the plane sits.

More often than not, it's sole down. Besides, it's much easier to grasp the tote when it's upright. :D

Dave,
If you always retract your irons, would you reconsider the installation of the cork in your plane till? Or do you feel you still derive a benefit from it?

[Dave Anderson NH]

Dan, I use the pad because it protects the plane irons against a lapse of memory if I forget to retract the blade. It also acts as a pad to prevent the plane body from gouging, scraping, and otherwise messing up the floor of each cubbyhole. It's essentially a "soft landing" for the plane when it goes to its home.

[jay hanks]

Dave, Just a quick follow up question about the cork pad you use, I take that you have not had any problems with rust when using that method? It sounds interesting and I might add that to my list when I get around to building a tool cabinet. Thanks Jay

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi Jay-


I've not had any rust problems due to the cork/nitrile rubber pads. Having said that, note that I maintain my shop at roughly 40% RH from April thru October and in the winter with the wood stove going it is often a good bit lower. I also keep the planes treated for rust prevention.

My rust prevention method starts with a thorough cleaning and derusting of the tool by wahat ever method seems appropriate. Obviously it varies greatly from a flea market find, to the purchase of a new tool that is pristine. I start from the dry clean iron or steel with a coat of Boeshield sprayed on and left to dry. After drying it is buffed up and I spray on either one or two coats of Top Cote which is also left to dry and then buffed. Finally I apply paste wax when using the tool as a means of keeping the sole slippery to reduce friction and to allow it to glide easily. My schedule is based on the fact that Boeshield is a true rust preventative, but is not very slippery and it needs something further to make it slide freely. The Top Cote performs this function and give a bit of added protection to the Boeshield undercoat.

I hope this helps. Remember that there are alot iof different approaches which are equally effective.

[jay hanks]

Dave, Thanks for the reply. Jay

[Ted Owen]

Hi Jay-


coat of Boeshield sprayed on and left to dry. After drying it is buffed up and I spray on either one or two coats of Top Cote

Thanks, Dave. I've always wondered whether there was a difference between the two. I'll try that myself.

Best, Ted