Collet Chuck Source

[Doug Nicholson]

I recall seeing a video/article/post recently that had a link to a source for MT2 collet chucks for turning bottle stoppers and tops. It was a fairly low priced (~ $10-$15 each") collet from some machine shop supply type place. Not a major supplier like McMaster or MSC. All I need is the collets themselves as I can make my own drawbar and all I need are 3/8" and 1/2" sizes at this time. I've done some searching but I'm not having any luck this morning finding just the collets. Can somebody point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Doug

[Don Bunce]

http://cdcotools.com/

[James Ley]

This is probably the one you saw, https://littlemachineshop.com The morse taper collets are here https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=874479994

[Dwight Rutherford]

Here is another source; http://www.shars.com/company/online-catalog

[Geoff Whaling]

http://www.ctctools.biz/er-collet-chucks/ & http://www.ctctools.biz/er-collets/ is a good source for ER collets. If you choose to use a MT2 collet body, please use a draw bar! Better choice is something like http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/ER32_Page.pdf (the USD/AUD conversion at $0.71 makes "Australian owned/made" look very attractive if you are in the US.)

[Peter Fabricius]

You probably saw this on the Capt Eddie UTube Chanel it was one of his videos in 2013 March?. #195 or there about, I watched it today.
The MT2 collet chucks are fantastic but the Beall ER32 collet chuck is the best of all. It comes with 5 standard sizes and then you buy a set of 18ea Metric ER32 collets on eBay and you can cover every possible size that you could want to hold....from 3mm to just over 3/4".
Peter F

Edit: It was Eddies #159 UTube video.

[Peter Blair]

Doug, I second the littlemachineshop. That is where I got mine and they work as described!

[Don Orr]

Pardon my ignorance, but are these MT2 collets used directly in the spindle taper of the lathe and just pulled tight with a draw bar ? Sounds just too simple after seeing several collet sets with a body that the individual collets fit into and tightens the collet onto the workpiece. Thanks for any light you can shed on this matter.

[Peter Blair]

Hey Don. That is the product that I was referring to. I do also have a set from DWay tools that has a very wide range of collets but is quite pricy!!!

[Geoff Whaling]

Don,

I have been using ER Collets for fine spindle wood turning for well over 10 years. "MT2 Collets" are available with most MT2 collets being used as you describe. IMO MT2 collets are not as easy or convenient to use as ER Collets in a collet body nor are they as efficient as ER Collets for wood turning. An ER Collet is used in a Collet Body and retained by a Collet Clamping Nut. The Collet body can be a spindle with a MT2 taper that MUST be held in position with a drawbar or it can have a dedicated thread in the body that screws directly onto the headstock spindle thread i.e. Beal or Vermec.

MT2 collets or accessories using MT2 spindles can be used in either head stock (turning or machining) or tail stock (drilling)

I can't stress enough the danger of using a MT2 collet body, Jacobs Chuck, or MT2 collet fitted directly into the head or tail stock MT2 without a drawbar. Certain spindle cuts, particularly RHS cove cuts & RHS pommel type cuts with a skew, will draw a MT2 taper out of the head stock spindle. The same goes for drilling operations in the tailstock with MT2 collets, MT2 Jacobs chucks etc when withdrawing the drill bit, particularly large forstner style bits. MT2 accessories when used without "tail stock support" MUST be used with a draw bar! This includes buffing wheels, sanding accessories as well. I know we get away with it all the time - but it is unsafe!

[Mike Peace]

I have used an MT collet to hold my cutter when using a threading jig. It does well for that. I have since purchased an ER collet set from Craft Supplies which I really like. I did a review of this Apprentice collet chuck in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxM44TD0dRY

[Marvin Hasenak]

At Little Machine Shop the Morse Taper collets do not need a chuck, the go directly into the Morse taper and are held in with a draw bar. You can find them here. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4314&category= I use mine as much as I do my collet chucks, I have extra for extra sizes of mandrels that stay on the mandrel ready to slap in the MT.

[Dave Cullen]

MT2 collets or accessories using MT2 spindles can be used in either head stock (turning or machining) or tail stock (drilling)

I can't stress enough the danger of using a MT2 collet body, Jacobs Chuck, or MT2 collet fitted directly into the head or tail stock MT2 without a drawbar. Certain spindle cuts, particularly RHS cove cuts & RHS pommel type cuts with a skew, will draw a MT2 taper out of the head stock spindle. The same goes for drilling operations in the tailstock with MT2 collets, MT2 Jacobs chucks etc when withdrawing the drill bit, particularly large forstner style bits. MT2 accessories when used without "tail stock support" MUST be used with a draw bar! This includes buffing wheels, sanding accessories as well. I know we get away with it all the time - but it is unsafe!

I have a number of drive centers and arbors in MT2 and none of them are machined for a draw bar. If it was such a big deal, I would expect that provision to be a standard feature. Not that I disagree with you - the potential to come loose is certainly there. But it's not always an option with a given tool. I have had the taper break free on occasion, but it's a rarity.

[Thom Sturgill]

Besides any issues with tightening the draw bar (reaching around the headstock), the use of a drawbar precludes inserting the materiel into the collet very far. While the spindle limits me to 3/8" I can insert dowels of any length through the headstock and grip them with the Apprentice collet chuckl which uses ER collets and screws onto the spindle. Works great for turning s-m-a-l-l turnings like doll house furniture,.

[David Walser]

I have a number of drive centers and arbors in MT2 and none of them are machined for a draw bar. If it was such a big deal, I would expect that provision to be a standard feature. Not that I disagree with you - the potential to come loose is certainly there. But it's not always an option with a given tool. I have had the taper break free on occasion, but it's a rarity.

The reason many MT2 drive centers are not machined for a drive bar is because these centers are typically used with tailstock support. The pressure from the tailstock prevents the MT2 drive center from coming loose. When a MT2 device, such as a Jacobs chuck, is used in the headstock without tailstock support, it is safer to use a draw bar.

Is this essential? I'll admit that I've been too lazy on occasions to use a draw bar when making the last finishing cut on a bottle stopper without tailstock support. I'm sure many others have done the same. While I've never had a serious mishap, that does NOT mean the practice is safe! Similarly, when using a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock to drill a blank, it's best to use a draw bar to keep the chuck mounted securely in the Morse taper. Using a draw bar is not necessary if you remember to hold the Jacobs chuck with your hand when retracting the drill from the blank.

[David Walser]

Besides any issues with tightening the draw bar (reaching around the headstock), the use of a drawbar precludes inserting the materiel into the collet very far. While the spindle limits me to 3/8" I can insert dowels of any length through the headstock and grip them with the Apprentice collet chuckl which uses ER collets and screws onto the spindle. Works great for turning s-m-a-l-l turnings like doll house furniture,.

This is why I've invested in the Apprentice collet chuck. I turn perches for bird house ornaments out of a length of 1/8" dowel from the big box store. My MT2 collet chuck kept coming loose in the headstock. The Apprentice chuck (and similar chucks) is a much better solution for this use. However, I still use my MT2 collet chucks a lot. I particularly like using them to hold drill bits in the tailstock. A collet chuck is more accurate than a Jacobs chuck. I also like using the MT2 collets in the headstock when I have tailstock support. They're smaller and make it easier to get close to the work from the headstock end of the blank. All in all, I'm glad to have both types in my kit.

[Geoff Whaling]

I have a number of drive centers and arbors in MT2 and none of them are machined for a draw bar. If it was such a big deal, I would expect that provision to be a standard feature. Not that I disagree with you - the potential to come loose is certainly there. But it's not always an option with a given tool. I have had the taper break free on occasion, but it's a rarity.

Just because a “tool” has a Jarno or MT1, 2 or 3 taper does not necessarily mean it is suitable for use as an unsupported “driven accessory” on a wood lathe, or that the omission of a thread for the use of a draw bar correlates as “a draw bar is not required in all MT applications.”


The reason many MT2 drive centers are not machined for a drive bar is because these centers are typically used with tailstock support. The pressure from the tailstock prevents the MT2 drive center from coming loose. When a MT2 device, such as a Jacobs chuck, is used in the headstock without tailstock support, it is safer to use a draw bar.

Is this essential? I'll admit that I've been too lazy on occasions to use a draw bar when making the last finishing cut on a bottle stopper without tailstock support. I'm sure many others have done the same. While I've never had a serious mishap, that does NOT mean the practice is safe! Similarly, when using a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock to drill a blank, it's best to use a draw bar to keep the chuck mounted securely in the Morse taper. Using a draw bar is not necessary if you remember to hold the Jacobs chuck with your hand when retracting the drill from the blank.

I agree 100% with David - Like a lot of things we do in wood turning - we get away with it, until one day we have an "accident." Unfortunately many turners don’t manage hazards and risk very well.

I will start another thread to avoid hijacking this one.

[terry mccammon]

Try http://www.dzsalesllc.com/. I found the pricing on collets and related items to be the best I could find in a short search.

[Don Orr]

I totally agree Geoff about the need for a drawbar. I have heard of people drilling and tapping non-threaded MT2 devices to accomodate a drawbar but have yet to try it. Are MT devices hardened ?

Thanks everyone for all the valuable input!

[Geoff Whaling]

I totally agree Geoff about the need for a drawbar. I have heard of people drilling and tapping non-threaded MT2 devices to accomodate a drawbar but have yet to try it. Are MT devices hardened ?

Thanks everyone for all the valuable input!

I guess the MT2 spindles are hardened.

[Dan Masshardt]

Theres a couple sizes here with the drawbar and knob for $20 each. 15% off store this weekend.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/turning_brand_ron_brown.htm

[Marvin Hasenak]

If you need an arbor with drawbar, and your chuck or tooling does not have a threaded arbor, in most cases you can knock out that arbor and buy a replacement arbor. On most drill cucks they have what the JT taper is, that is the taper that holds the arbor on the chuck. Find that number, it usually ends in JT and order one that has been already threaded. I use Little Machine Shop, they provide good service and their site is easy for me. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=arbor&B1=Product+Search

Now the rest of the story, most drill chucks are only held on to the drill chuck by the Jacobs Taper, which is another version of a taper like the Morse Taper. Even it is not infallible, you will find that some chucks have both a JT taper and a safety screw, but most do not. So even with a drawbar, that chuck can come loose. It is common sense and basic safety issues that you need to address. I only use a drawbar with the individual collets that go into Morse Taper that do not use a chuck. I have never used a drill chuck with a drawbar, I see no need if you use proper safety and common sense techniques. After 55 years of wood turning, I am not about to change now.

[Geoff Whaling]

If you need an arbor with drawbar, and your chuck or tooling does not have a threaded arbor, in most cases you can knock out that arbor and buy a replacement arbor. On most drill cucks they have what the JT taper is, that is the taper that holds the arbor on the chuck. Find that number, it usually ends in JT and order one that has been already threaded. I use Little Machine Shop, they provide good service and their site is easy for me. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=arbor&B1=Product+Search

Now the rest of the story, most drill chucks are only held on to the drill chuck by the Jacobs Taper, which is another version of a taper like the Morse Taper. Even it is not infallible, you will find that some chucks have both a JT taper and a safety screw, but most do not. So even with a drawbar, that chuck can come loose. It is common sense and basic safety issues that you need to address. I only use a drawbar with the individual collets that go into Morse Taper that do not use a chuck. I have never used a drill chuck with a drawbar, I see no need if you use proper safety and common sense techniques. After 55 years of wood turning, I am not about to change now.

Marvin, you raise very good points about the typical construction with a Jacobs Taper (JT) from the MT2 spindle mandrel into the Jacobs chuck body. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper

Many new & experienced wood turners are not aware of how our tools are constructed so don't even consider the potential risk of a Jacobs Chuck MT2 coming out of the head stock while in use or the JT separating from the spindle to chuck. I have seen many instances of Jacobs Chucks working the MT2 loose from the head stock while turning and from the tail stock while drilling but very few instances of a JT separating in use. Personally I have had a cheap Jacobs Chuck JT cause issues because of poor machining & poor factory QC & assembly - it is now scrap metal.

My message about safety is consider the potential hazards, then the risk i.e. potential frequency and severity of injuries. All I am saying is that some tools can be used safely if a turner understands the hazards & potential risk but they may not be the best choice in a particular application. :cool:

Morse tapers and threaded chucks/inserts are antiquated in production manufacturing because of their inefficiency in a production environment and the inherent dangers of using them in particular applications i.e. a MT 2 accessory in unsupported mode or a threaded insert with the lathe running in "reverse." Wood turners and manufacturers continue to use them because they are economical to manufacture, robust, simple to use & maintain but they do have some potential hazards if used inappropriately.