Building some cabinet boxes using pocket screws

[George Bokros]

I plan to build some cabinet boxes using pocket screws, Here is the plan.....

Cut 1/4' deep rabbet in 3/4" ply sides and attach 1/2" ply tops and bottoms to the sides. Is it better to drill the pocket holes in the sides and screw the tops and bottoms to the sides or drill the tops and bottoms and screw the tops and bottoms to the side or does it make any difference? The pocket screw holes will not be visible on the inside of the cabinet boxes.

Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.

[John TenEyck]

To pull the joint tight you would drill the pocket holes in the top and bottoms panels and drive the screws into the sides. Check with some scrap to make sure your screws aren't going to go completely through the side with that 1/4" deep rabbet. You may have to make it shallower.

John

[George Bokros]

To pull the joint tight you would drill the pocket holes in the top and bottoms panels and drive the screws into the sides. Check with some scrap to make sure your screws aren't going to go completely through the side with that 1/4" deep rabbet. You may have to make it shallower.

John

I am thinking I would use the 1" screws instead of the 1 1/4" screws to prevent from going through. The 1" screws are used with 1/2" material which is basically what I would be attaching.

[Art Mann]

You would get a stronger joint and go to less trouble if you skipped the rabbet and just used a butt joint and more pocket screws. The trick to getting good pocket hole joints is to clamp the two pieces tightly together just like you were going to glue them before driving the screws. I have roll around outfeed and assembly cabinet/tables that were built 10+ years ago with just butt joints and lots of pocket screws and these tables have probably been abused far more than what you have in mind. I haven't seen a hint of joint failure.

[Robert Engel]

IMO pocket screws are NOT a good choice for cab construction because:
1. Not enough purchase (at best 5/8" in 3/4 ply).
2. Screws bad about stripping out in plywood.
(How do I know this? Been there, done that, got the Tshirt :rolleyes:)

Use 3/4 for tops/bottoms and use butt joints w/ 1 3/4 - 2" screws.
Neither rabbets nor glue necessary. The only rabbet you'll need is to attach the back.

If you're worried about screws showing, the only screws that will show are on the end cabs.
To address that issue, you can use 1/2" for exposed side cover with a 1/4 skin.
Or countersink screws and use plugs.
If painted, just countersink and fill.

There are cab making books and videos all over place and there are some cab makers here who I'm sure will comment.
Good luck.

[Roger Pozzi]

I did just what you're saying about 6 years ago and, there have been no problems with that construction method. I did however, add some glue in the rabbets and shelf dadoes.

[George Bokros]

I want to use the 1/2" for the tops and bottoms to save some money on ply and save some weight. the end cabinets will be against walls so no pocket hole screws will show. These are actually going to be the boxes for a closet organizer.

I did butt joints with pocket screws on the vanity I built last winter and they worked well. I thought the rabbet would help with keeping the sides from moving when i screw the sides to the bottoms.

Thanks for all the tips.

[Robert Parent]

I am just finishing my kitchen cabinets with pocket screws (1 1/4 inch) and 3/4 maple plywood, They came out really nice and no problems with either the plywood or the pocket screws. For construction I used the standard Europe design, butt joints, glued joints, no rabbets, screwed the top and bottom into the sides with the pocket screws. I cut the parts on my CNC so everything aligned correctly and fit tight.

Robert

[Jim Dwight]

I think your plan will work fine. I use the locking pliers type clamp to temporarily hold the pieces together while driving screws. It doesn't prevent slipping but helps. I can generally estimate about how much the first screw will move things and compensate in the position. After one screw is in, the pieces don't move with a clamp on the other end. But if you want to put a rabbet/dado in the pieces, it will help with alignment.

For lower cabinets that will see some weight, I like to have the top and bottom cover the sides and screw from below and above, however, rather than use pocket screws. That way the plywood has to shear off for the joint to fail. But for uppers, pocket screws in the top and bottom would work fine. Top would generally not be visible and bottom isn't in your face. I wouldn't do it in a kitchen but for shop cabinets I don't see an issue.