Recomendations for commercial bar top finish?

[Mike Vermeil]

A local sports bar is a good client of mine, and they'd like me to refinish the large edge molding on their bar. I don't know the proper term for this part of a bar, but it's the curved chunk of solid oak that you rest your elbows on when you're downing a cool one.

The bar itself is less than a year old, but the contractor obviously screwed it up because the polyurethane is now peeling off the oak like dead skin. If I were installing the bar new, it'd be no problem. I'd finish the molding in the shop with 4 or 5 coats of urethane, maybe spar for toughness, and install once ready.

But here's the catch, this place never closes, not even on Christmas, so I've got to strip, sand, stain & refinish the thing all in one day. They simply can't afford to have the bar down for any longer than that. Can anyone recomend a clear finish to use that would dry quick enough that I could apply two or three relatively thick coats in one day and have it be ready for use by the next? I don't want to use water based polyurethane becasue everything else around it is finished in oil based, and IMHO, the two never look quite the same. Alcohol resistance is an obvious requirement.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Marc Spagnuolo]

Sounds like a call for bartop finish. I believe there are several two part epoxy finishes that are intended for rugged bartop use. I think Behlens has a rock hard finish product as well. Would I want someone using it the next day? Heck no. Thats going to be tough. I am interested in hearing other people's comments on this one.


Marc

[Steve Schoene]

Can you swap out this molding ? Wouldn't be cheap, but the only disruption would be removal of old and replacement with new that could be pre-finished in your shop with a normal schedule.

[Dan Forman]

I have no experience with these, but was just reading the Highland Hardware catalog today and saw that they really like some of the Hydrocoat finishes for speed and durability. There is an amber additive to make the finish look warmer, more oil like. Here is a link to the Hydrocoat section of their online catalog. http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=281


I don't know of any oil based product that will let you apply several coats in a day. But then the only thing I can say with assurance about finishing is that shellac probably wouldn't be a very good idea for this particular application. :D

[Jim Becker]

I believe this is a good question for Per...

[Earl Kelly]

Mike , this is a tough one. Anything tough enough will either take to long to harden or has to be sprayed. Epoxy would be my first choice, but it would take at least 2 coats and the fastest curing is about 6 hrs. A conversion varnish would do the job but it has to be sprayed. You might get by brushing 2 coats of poly but that is going to take more than a couple of hours. And really needs 12-24 hrs. to cure. I'm sorry but I don't see how you can do it in the time frame allotted you.

[Keith July]

Mike,

How about removing the part that needs refinishing and take it to your shop?
They could use the bar while the repair is being made.
Keith

[Mike Vermeil]

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys. Unfortunately, I cannot remove the portion that needs refinishing - that sure would make things easy though. It may end up being the case that they have to concede not having people sit at the bar for a couple days.

Jim - I'm hoping to hear from Per also since he seems to frequent bars, err, I mean frequently make bars, or, or...

[Richard Wolf]

I think I would look at West Epoxy System. They have a number of different speed hardners. While you may still need two coats, if you did one the first day, the bar could still be used that night. Sand an recoat the second day and I dont think they would damage the first coat in between.

Richard

[Phil Winn]

refinishing 1/2 on day one.....and the other 1/2 a few days later?
(the right side...then the left side...)

Phil

[Per Swenson]

Mike,

That's our Mr. Wolf with the right Idea.
Use West systems, but experiment at home
with the right formula.
After the two parts are mixed together thin
it with denatured alcohol to the proper brushing consistency.
Don't worry it is still going to set up fast.
Then wet sand (preferred) and do it again.
Wait till the whole thing cures and go back with some W/D 1000.
Remember timing is everything so practice at home so it doesn't get
away from you. Behlens is out of the question. That takes about two
weeks.

Per

[Richard Wolf]

Per, I didn't mean to jump in on your area of expertise, we were all waiting for you. You must have been busy working.
Did the cat really walk across the keyboard?

Richard