Coping Saw Question

[Tyler Huber]

Hey there everyone. I just got my Olson coping saw in the mail today and its been a beautiful day in upstate NY so I went out to the shop and cut a few quick dovetails to test it out. But, the saw decided to make me into and idiot. So here comes the "newbie" question. How do you set this thing up? I tried searches but couldn't find anything on the Olson which seems to be different from others because of the nut on the end. So whoever has some tips for me would be great. Thanks!

Tyler

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Tyler and a belated welcome to the Creek.

From looking at images on line it looks like your saw can be tensioned with the handle and the nut on the end.

The blade should be installed to cut on the pull stroke. Surely some will disagree, but this seems to work for me.

Do not try to push the blade through the cut. If you do, you will break a lot of blades, DAMHIKT! (don't ask me how I know this)

My description would be to "float" the blade in the kerf. Do not try to make right angle turns. Turn just a little, down stroke, up stroke, turn just a little more and repeat.

My first attempts at trying to use a coping saw or fret saw on dovetails was also making me look like an idiot. It just took some time and practice to get the saw to work for me.

jtk

[Jason Roehl]

When coping, I'm a fan of handle down, teeth down--that is, cut on the pull stroke as you're pulling the saw down towards the work bench.

[Tyler Huber]

I did reinstall the blade to cut on the pull due to everything I read. I've read that one side should be lose to let it twist and also that it should be fully tensioned which is the confusing part. Do I want the blade as tight as can be? or somewhat lose? one side lose? so many options its driving me nuts! I like my Stanley 118 for some reason.. simple maybe? advance, tap tap for lateral, cuts like a dream. Thanks guys.

Tyler

[Steve Voigt]

You want the blade as tight as you can get it; the more tension, the better. Just like a hacksaw. I don't remember ever breaking a blade, and if you do, they're cheap to replace. Make sure that the blade is not twisted. The two ends do not automatically align.

And not to start a fight, but when cutting dovetail waste, I always cut on the push stroke, and I think a majority of writers, teachers etc. have generally recommended push in this situation. Either way will work, but i just want to push back (sorry, terrible pun) on the notion that the pull stroke is "correct." If you are having major problems, it's not because you are pushing vs. pulling; the problems are due to something else.

[Jim Koepke]

I am pretty much in agreement with what Steve says.

For me it seems easier to use a pull stroke. Though it has been years since I have tried using a coping saw on a push stroke. Maybe now that I have improved my technique I should give the push stoke blade orientation a try.

What it comes down is what works best for the one doing the sawing.

jtk

[Don Slaughter]

Last year Chris Schwarz posted on LAP (Lost Art Press) how he puts a washer on his tension nut to increase and keep the tension. I did the same and it made a world of difference. Also,the blades can add a tremendous boost if you get good ones. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/coping-saw-blades-pegas
good luck,
Don

[Mike Null]

I love my Japanese saws but I still use the push stroke on my coping saw.

[Tony Zaffuto]

As much tension you can put on the blade, and I use the pull stroke, but I have the pieces upright and cut the waste before removing from my work holding vise (I use my idea of a Moxon). As others have said, don't try right angles-let the blade work. I also cut a clearance cut to the baseline in the middle of the waste.

[Tyler Huber]

Thanks everyone. I'll have to try push and pull and see which I like better. I'm waiting on the pegas blades to arrive, should be today. Gotta love 2 different boxes for a saw and blades.

Tyler

[Tony Zaffuto]

I actually have three Olson saws and find the Olson blades perfectly fine (stone the back side for burrs). One saw set to cast off to the left, one to the right and one straight. If you do a lot of dovetails, it saves a lot of fussing around changing the twist/re-tensioning, etc.

[Tyler Huber]

Tony, I am wondering how you set each up for left and right? I gave the saw another try today and worked better. I have still have to get more use to it though. I kept tilting the saw so that the face side waste was good but the back side waste was a little high. Shouldn't take to long to fix though.

Tyler

[Tom M King]

I push. I don't like the wood fuzzies coming up on my line.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Tony, I am wondering how you set each up for left and right? I gave the saw another try today and worked better. I have still have to get more use to it though. I kept tilting the saw so that the face side waste was good but the back side waste was a little high. Shouldn't take to long to fix though.

Tyler

Just set the blade so it is about 45 degrees to the frame. If the stock you're dovetailing is narrower than the depth of the frame, you don't need to do this. But for wider stock, you can saw out the waste without the frame interfering.