New to the world of bandsaws......couple questions about blade wobble on my Rikon 14"

[Ricky Pray]

Hello ladies and gentleman,

I am new to the world of bandsaws. I purchased my first one at the beginning of the summer. It's a Rikon 10-325 14". I made sure to do plenty of research before unboxing it. I was pretty meticulous while getting it set up correctly. I used the factory blade until it was finished and then switched to a Lenox Diemaster bimetal blade as I primarily cut Texas ebony and mesquite.

After setting up the saw with the factory blade, I noticed that the blade on the upper wheel didn't quite track perfectly. The amount of yellow tire showing was not consistant. The saw cut well thought and I wasn't sure if that was normal.

I put the new blade on and set the saw up to match the new blade. I have cut several small logs but noticed that the problem has remained and now the blade moves forward and backward. It stays relatively consistant until a certain point when the blade jumps forward. It tends to be that way on the wheel as well. Tracks okay and then wobbles on the tire.

After reading several post about this topic, I am pretty sure it is the blade. I can't remember if it was occuring right out the gate to the magnitude that it is now. Do welds fail under use? Is there anything else I should check?

Thanks.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hello Ricky,I will try to answer your Question,But first welcome to the sawmill creek.The best woodworking forum in the world.Now to your Question Lenox makes a darn good bandsaw blade I have never had one break.But I don't use them on my 14 inch bandsaw.Because the ones I like are too thick,.035.So I buy olsen blades that are .025 to 020 thick.I also buy them from Rockler and check the weld before I leave the store.Sometimes the weld can make the blade travel back and forth on the wheel,but there can be other reasons too.Thats all I got.Hope this helps.

[John McClanahan]

Sounds like the blade wasn't quite straight when it was welded. It can happen with any brand.

I wouldn't worry about less than perfect tracking if the saw is cutting good.


John

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I stumbled across this video on band saw adjustments. Looked intersting even though it has a commercial bent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Greg

[John Donofrio]

Had the same issue with a Timberwolf blade on the same saw. They replaced it and it has been fine ever since.

[Al Weber]

It may or may not be the blade. There is a lower wheel adjustment done on the alignment of the axle using bolts on the outside of the saw. The mechanism for adjusting it is somewhere on the web. I can't seem to locate my copy right now but had to do it on my older model 18" Rikon. If you call Rikon support, I'm sure they can point you to it or provide you a copy.

[Brad Adams]

I had the same problem with my bandsaw. Three different Timberwolf blades with bad welds were the cause. It can really drive you insane trying to figure out were the back and forth is coming from. Try a different blade and see what happens. I haven't had much luck with Timberwolf blades. Not that they are a bad blade, I just haven't had much luck in getting one with a straight weld. The Lenox blades I have from Band Saw Blades direct have all been great. Never a crooked weld.

[Erik Loza]

Agreed: Sounds like a bad weld.

That being said, I have seen bad welds on pretty much every brand of blade, from many vendors across the board. So, I put no stock in the "such-and-such brand is known for bad welds". You can get that from any vendor. And it's a bandsaw blade, not a table saw blade. They're a consumable. Don't get attached to them or waste too much time worrying about it. Buy a bunch. You'll need them.

Best of luck,

Erik