Shaper Cutters Tight

[Curt Rowe]

I have an Inca shaper with a 1 1/4" spindle. I recently bought some Amana cutters. They won't slide on the spindle. I started one by lightly tapping on each side of the cutter with a hammer. It slowly made its way on. I didn't go too far for fear of getting it stuck. I cleaned both the spindle and the cutter bore with acetone to remove any build up. I have other cutters that fit fine. Is there any trick to getting these cutters on? I could oil the spindle. I've had the shaper for years, but haven't really used it so the spindle is like new.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Not a machinist, but since Amanas start, it is probably just a matter of a 0.001"or so. Since other cutters are fine and assume you don't want to return Amana, try a hone on Amana bore: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/96301882

[Erik Loza]

Before I actually honed anything, I might just try polishing the bore with a felt tip on my dremel and some rouge paste.

Erik

[Curt Rowe]

I just went out and measured the bore with one my latest toys: a Mitutoyo digital caliper. The bores were 1.2485. The spindle is 1.2500.

[Malcolm McLeod]

...just be careful of tapering it or getting it out of round.

[Robert LaPlaca]

No offense, but I really don't think it would be possible for a shaper cutter that is .002 smaller to be installed on the 1.250 shaper spindle using light taps from anything..

I can hear my late master machinist father yelling in my ear, that one should make sure there is no burr in the bore of the new shaper cutter with ones finger..

[Dave Cullen]

No offense, but I really don't think it would be possible for a shaper cutter that is .002 smaller to be installed on the 1.250 shaper spindle using light taps from anything..

I can hear my late master machinist father yelling in my ear, that one should make sure there is no burr in the bore of the new shaper cutter with ones finger..

Yuh, that. And it's hard to get an accurate inside measurement on a round bore with calipers. I suspect your measurement may be off a bit. Still, I'd call Amana and see if they can tell you the nominal size for their 1.25" bore.

[Curt Rowe]

I haven't used precision measuring tools since metal shop in high school. We're talking decades here. So my measuring technique may be off. I did check for burrs in the cutters, all three of them. I even ran a piece of emery cloth around to remove any coating that might be there. The dado set came with some spacers. They all fit fine.

[Phil Thien]

No offense, but I really don't think it would be possible for a shaper cutter that is .002 smaller to be installed on the 1.250 shaper spindle using light taps from anything..

I can hear my late master machinist father yelling in my ear, that one should make sure there is no burr in the bore of the new shaper cutter with ones finger..

Yeah maybe the OP could measure some older cutters that fit, and we could see relative differences.

I suspect the bore on the Amana units is undersized. I would just let Amana deal with it.

[Peter Quinn]

Nobody's perfect, if your measurements are good, and they probably are if you are using the calipers correctly, that bore is too small. The bore should be just over the 1.250 not just under. CS at Amana is very good, I'd return it and try another cutter. No hammers, don't force anything.

[Lee Schierer]

I just went out and measured the bore with one my latest toys: a Mitutoyo digital caliper. The bores were 1.2485. The spindle is 1.2500.

Even high end calipers are not the proper tool for getting an accurate bore measurement. You need either a precision bore gauge. I suspect the 1.2485 is off if the cutter even though about going on the shaft.

[Curt Rowe]

Not a machinist, but since Amanas start, it is probably just a matter of a 0.001"or so. Since other cutters are fine and assume you don't want to return Amana, try a hone on Amana bore: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/96301882

You linked a 1 3/8" diameter hone. Would I use that or a 1 1/4" one. I also see that there several grits 120 to 320. If I go 120, I would imagine it would work faster. A finer grit would keep me from going too fast.

[Peter Quinn]

Something like this (http://www.amazon.com/T71797-4-Inch-2-Inch-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B00A4AI972/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZCV9NJHKW30XZ45WKTG) strikes me as more appropriate, the hone listed above states in the description "Silicone carbide for use on non ferrous metals".....pretty sure the amana cutter is steel body, most are anyway. And the scratches from 120G are far too course IME as a stopping point for that application. 400-600G is a better place to start, slower and finer is better. Honestly on a brand new cutter my first move would be a return.

[Larry Edgerton]

All of my Amana cutters are tight. A couple I had to lightly use a brake hone on. A brake hone is cheap, but they come in different grit stones. Mine is relatively fine. About five revolutions did the trick. I really like my Amanas for the $$$.

I would rather have them a scosche tight than a scosche loose!

[Curt Rowe]

Something like this (http://www.amazon.com/T71797-4-Inch-2-Inch-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B00A4AI972/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZCV9NJHKW30XZ45WKTG) strikes me as more appropriate, the hone listed above states in the description "Silicone carbide for use on non ferrous metals".....pretty sure the amana cutter is steel body, most are anyway. And the scratches from 120G are far too course IME as a stopping point for that application. 400-600G is a better place to start, slower and finer is better. Honestly on a brand new cutter my first move would be a return.

The Amana cutter bodies are steel. I looked at your link. I'm not sure it would work with the cutters that are 1/3" thick. The rabbit cutter is about 2.5" so I would work with it.

[Max Neu]

Like Larry said,my Amana's are tighter than all of my other cutters,but they do go on,they just take a little more finesse.

[Peter Quinn]

The Amana cutter bodies are steel. I looked at your link. I'm not sure it would work with the cutters that are 1/3" thick. The rabbit cutter is about 2.5" so I would work with it.

I'm thinking two blocks of 6/4 or better to hold the cutter, drill press on low speed, table height set so the pivot on the hones is centered on the cutter body, you could hone just about any cutter with that. Might get trick to use a hand drill on skinny slot cutters, but if you have a drill press it would be quick to make a fixture for the work. I did one with some 400G emery cloth and just spun it on two fingers until it fit, runs great, but it was really just barely too snug.

[Curt Rowe]

I'm thinking two blocks of 6/4 or better to hold the cutter, drill press on low speed, table height set so the pivot on the hones is centered on the cutter body, you could hone just about any cutter with that. Might get trick to use a hand drill on skinny slot cutters, but if you have a drill press it would be quick to make a fixture for the work. I did one with some 400G emery cloth and just spun it on two fingers until it fit, runs great, but it was really just barely too snug.

Good idea. I do have a drill press. I'll also have better control over the speed. I put a call into Amana. I should hear from them tomorrow.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Thought I'd seen Amana in both steel and aluminum bodies...? The MSC link was just to get the concept across; you may need to fine tune for fit, grit, & and suitable material. Or, maybe try the brake hone suggestion above ... from local auto parts store?Could even make a mini flapper sander from split dowel, emery strip, and a drill press. For only 0.0015 to 0.002 material removal, there are lots of options. (All except the option where I hone too much and have to throw the cutter out.)

[Curt Rowe]

Update

​I drove around looking for emery cloth and a cylinders hones. The hones were way too small for my 2" deep bore or didn't close down to 1.25". I finally found emery cloth at Home Depot. Fun fact: emery cloth is esmeril in Spanish. I wrapped the cloth around a dowel and stuck it and my finger into the bore to sand them. It took between 5 and 15 minutes on each of the dado head components to get them to fit. I still have to rock them on to get them started. Once fully on, they slide up and down in a real tight fit. Does that sound too tight? Would the metal expand when heated from cutting and lock on to the spindle? My other cutters have just a bit of slop in them when they're fully on.
I'll order the linked hone to do the rabbit head. I haven't heard from Amana yet.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a minimax shaper I bought used, almost all my cutters are a real precise fit on that one, I have to be dead perfect dropping them on or they will bind up bad. They do slide up and down, they never get stuck when it heats up in fact they seem to come off easier than they go on when cold. Bright side it with no slop its also one of the smoothest most chatter free cuts I've achieved. My other shaper is italian as well, Paolini, it was used a lot more when it came to me, cutters are still a very precise fit versus some of the down right sloppy powermatics I've used, but most things slide on just a bit easier than on the minimax, but i can still bind the Amana cutters if I'm not being careful. I'm thinking if you can slip them on, problem solved, you're fine.