Has anyone dyed stringing for inlay?

[Frederick Skelly]

Well, I gave up trying to make my own string inlay tools and bought a set from LN. Yeah, it was a lot more expensive than doing it myself but I finally decided to just do it, based on advice here and elsewhere. My efforts were not "fruitful" and I wanted to get back to learning inlay, rather than build tools (in this one case!).

So far, I'm waaay down on the learning curve and my practice pieces are sloppy. But, like my dovetails and my mortises, they'll improve with practice. I've watched the Latta video twice now. (Wish there was a book, instead!)

So here's my question: Has anyone tried to dye their own stringing and if so, how did you do it? I've been practicing making string from BORG whitewood, which has surprisingly even/smooth grain. But I'm concerned that the dye won't penetrate all the way through the stringing, even if I leave it immersed overnight. My string is about 0.035" thick and about 3/4" wide (unsliced). (I might have to slice it into 1/8" widths before dyeing - would prefer not to.)

Thanks guys!
Fred

[Nicholas Lingg]

http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=dye%20wood

I've used this and it came out looking good.

[Frederick Skelly]

http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=dye%20wood

I've used this and it came out looking good.

Nick, the link only takes me to their home page. Could you please tell me a bit more so I can find what you used?

[Nicholas Lingg]

The page I'm trying to show is there Dyed Veneer and General finishes Dye. I've used both. You may have to glue 1 or 2 or 3 layers of the veneer to get the thickness you need. With the Dye I put the strips in the can from 1 hour to over night depending on the wood you use and the color you want.

[Frederick Skelly]

The page I'm trying to show is there Dyed Veneer and General finishes Dye. I've used both. You may have to glue 1 or 2 or 3 layers of the veneer to get the thickness you need. With the Dye I put the strips in the can from 1 hour to over night depending on the wood you use and the color you want.

Gotcha. Thanks for your help!
Fred

[Tony Joyce]

I've dyed black veneer for stringing before. I got good results but, I invested a lot of time and materials before deciding it is cheaper to just but a few pieces as needed. Kind of like buying the tools, make tools or make furniture! I also make my own banding so consistency was a factor also.

These are as good as I have found for the money. http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed_veneers.aspx

Tony

[Frederick Skelly]

I've dyed black veneer for stringing before. I got good results but, I invested a lot of time and materials before deciding it is cheaper to just but a few pieces as needed. Kind of like buying the tools, make tools or make furniture! I also make my own banding so consistency was a factor also.

These are as good as I have found for the money. http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed_veneers.aspx

Tony

Thanks Tony!

[Mike Henderson]

I've had problems getting the dye to penetrate completely. What happens is that when you sand the finished piece, the stringing gets lighter in some areas.

What I've done that works well for me is to purchase veneer that has been professionally dyed. Then I use an Atlas pasta making machine (http://www.target.com/p/atlas-pasta-machine/-/A-10141984?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=10141984&CPNG=Kitchen&kpid=10141984&LID=26pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10141984&kpid=10141984&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6cCuBRCh4KrGoJ6LoboBEiQAwzYsdBM69jzy kIpkYilnt-mybX8cyqS_S7TVjq5-17GdJT8aAiMN8P8HAQ)with the smallest cutters and cut the veneer. Gives me lots of stringing and the pieces are very even in width.

Mike

[B&B Rare Woods (http://www.wood-veneers.com/) has a decent selection of dyed veneers.]

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Mike. I'm experiencing the same problem with dye penetration and I'm not sure it's worth my time/effort to fight it. I was hoping it was just me. I'll check out the link you sent - thanks.

The pasta maker is sheer genius. I had been considering a paper slicer, but your idea is much more clever.

Take care!
Fred



I've had problems getting the dye to penetrate completely. What happens is that when you sand the finished piece, the stringing gets lighter in some areas.

What I've done that works well for me is to purchase veneer that has been professionally dyed. Then I use an Atlas pasta making machine (http://www.target.com/p/atlas-pasta-machine/-/A-10141984?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=google_pla_df&LNM=10141984&CPNG=Kitchen&kpid=10141984&LID=26pgs&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10141984&kpid=10141984&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6cCuBRCh4KrGoJ6LoboBEiQAwzYsdBM69jzy kIpkYilnt-mybX8cyqS_S7TVjq5-17GdJT8aAiMN8P8HAQ)with the smallest cutters and cut the veneer. Gives me lots of stringing and the pieces are very even in width.

Mike

[B&B Rare Woods (http://www.wood-veneers.com/) has a decent selection of dyed veneers.]

[Mike Henderson]

Take a look at eBay for that Atlas pasta machine. I think a lot of people buy it with good intentions but then wind up selling it. Sort of like exercise equipment.:) I've seen them listed pretty cheap.

Mike

[Kent A Bathurst]

OK - I don't get something here.

Veneer for stringing. So - the depth of the cut you make to inlay the stringing is what - .020" or so? for .030" veneer?

I feel I must be wide of the mark here - anyone care to set me straight?

TIA.

[Daniel Smith]

The thickness of the veneer is matched to the thickness of your cutter so that the veneer goes into the groove on edge. You can plow out the groove as deep as you like, cut the veneer slightly wide, then sand flush after it is glued in.

[george wilson]

I could be wrong,as this is old memory. But,does soaking the veneer in vinegar help dye penetration?

P.S.: I just Googled getting dye to penetrate veneer,and did not see any mention of using vinegar. But you might want to try it. I'm pretty sure i recall something about using vinegar.

Also mentioned was using a pressure cooker to aid penetration. This seems like a lot of trouble. If you try this,I'd suggest putting the dye and veneer into a ceramic container within the cooker so you don't get dye soaked into the cooker and mess it up. Kind of like me using a bottle of hide glue inside the glue pot to keep it in neat condition.

[Frederick Skelly]

I could be wrong,as this is old memory. But,does soaking the veneer in vinegar help dye penetration?

P.S.: I just Googled getting dye to penetrate veneer,and did not see any mention of using vinegar. But you might want to try it. I'm pretty sure i recall something about using vinegar.

Also mentioned was using a pressure cooker to aid penetration. This seems like a lot of trouble. If you try this,I'd suggest putting the dye and veneer into a ceramic container within the cooker so you don't get dye soaked into the cooker and mess it up. Kind of like me using a bottle of hide glue inside the glue pot to keep it in neat condition.

Thanks George! I'll try the vinegar. Funny, I had thought about a pressure cooker too. But the only person I know who has one is my Mom. She won't be happy AT ALL if I try that. Mom just doesn't have a sense of adventure! :)

But I just bought a bottle of white vinegar. I'll definitely try that.

Thanks again,
Fred

[george wilson]

Do let us know how the vinegar turns out. I think you soak the strips in vinegar for a few days,then while they are wet,put them into the dye.

if you Google "dye penetration into veneer",you will find that some dyes are coarser than others,and don't penetrate as well. Also depends upon the wood too. Soft maple takes dye better than hard maple for instance.

[Kent A Bathurst]

The thickness of the veneer is matched to the thickness of your cutter so that the veneer goes into the groove on edge. You can plow out the groove as deep as you like, cut the veneer slightly wide, then sand flush after it is glued in.

OK - thanks - goes in on edge - I was envisioning flat. Got it.

But then - what is most veneer? .030? .040? Narrow groove. Assume you can/may double up?

[Mike Henderson]

OK - thanks - goes in on edge - I was envisioning flat. Got it.

But then - what is most veneer? .030? .040? Narrow groove. Assume you can/may double up?
Regular commercial veneer is 1/42".

When I double or triple up, I make a form in the shape of the curve and glue the veneer together in that shape. Then sand it on both edges to make sure there will be no gaps at the bottom when I put it in. It would be embarrassing to sand the stringing down and get a gap.

For example, on the top of the corner cabinet that I made recently, that's how I made the curves at the end of the walnut veneer. But I put those in before I laid the veneer - it was part of the veneer panel. An alternate way to do it is to lay the veneer, then come back with a Dremel on a circle cutter and route out the curve for the stringing.

Mike

[David Ragan]

Hi Frederick
your stringing is bound to improve
did you see where Latta gets his Holly from Groff & Groff; I'm no expert but Holly works wonderfully cause of tight even grain-like butter
be sure to tell them if you want pale white etc or u might get off tones
they likely have other wood that lends itself to stringing
In particular, I will probably undertake some ebony stringing in some kinda exotic in the next few days
Ebony cause of previously mentioned dye permeation issues-I need black
And you gotta be aware of whatever color your stringing is doesn't get pushed into surrounding main wood when scraping it @ finish-after glue sets, etcetera

[Frederick Skelly]

Do let us know how the vinegar turns out. I think you soak the strips in vinegar for a few days,then while they are wet,put them into the dye.

if you Google "dye penetration into veneer",you will find that some dyes are coarser than others,and don't penetrate as well. Also depends upon the wood too. Soft maple takes dye better than hard maple for instance.

Thanks George! I'll keep you posted. I'll also google as you suggested!
Fred

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Frederick
your stringing is bound to improve
did you see where Latta gets his Holly from Groff & Groff; I'm no expert but Holly works wonderfully cause of tight even grain-like butter
be sure to tell them if you want pale white etc or u might get off tones
they likely have other wood that lends itself to stringing
In particular, I will probably undertake some ebony stringing in some kinda exotic in the next few days
Ebony cause of previously mentioned dye permeation issues-I need black
And you gotta be aware of whatever color your stringing is doesn't get pushed into surrounding main wood when scraping it @ finish-after glue sets, etcetera

Thanks David. Yes, I improved noticeably yesterday when I reviewed the video to see how Latta was holding/operating his stringing tools - I was holding them all wrong and correcting that really increased my control of the work!

Drat! I missed the reference to groff & groff. Thanks for pointing it out!
Fred

[Kent A Bathurst]

Regular commercial veneer is 1/42".

When I double or triple up, I make a form in the shape of the curve and glue the veneer together in that shape. Then sand it on both edges to make sure there will be no gaps at the bottom when I put it in. It would be embarrassing to sand the stringing down and get a gap.

For example, on the top of the corner cabinet that I made recently, that's how I made the curves at the end of the walnut veneer. But I put those in before I laid the veneer - it was part of the veneer panel. An alternate way to do it is to lay the veneer, then come back with a Dremel on a circle cutter and route out the curve for the stringing.

Mike

10.4. Mike - I've got that burned into the relevant synapses now - makes sense the way you described it............

thanks