Defective Paddle Switch

[Al Launier]

A while back (~ 1 year) I replaced the original on/off switch on my Ridgid 3650 TS with a safety paddle switch from Grizzly (http://www.grizzly.com/products/h8243). This switch no longer worked about a couple months ago & I found out it was discontinued. It was replaced with (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Paddle-Switch-110-230V/D4151). Grizzly CS was very responsive in sending me a free replacement. Unfortunately this replacement paddle switch also decided to go south after limited use. It has become very difficult to push the switch hard enough to turn the saw on, yet it still works well when shutting the saw off (same symptoms for both switches). I'm reluctant to pester CS service again for another replacement thinking another paddle switch would wear out prematurely as did the previous tow switches.

So, I'm wondering if there is a good quality paddle switch available for about the same price. Any suggestions, or is this a case of buy cheap get cheap at this price?

[ken masoumi]

I changed the on/off switches on my drum sander, table saw, bandsaw with Woodstock D4160-110 volt paddle switches (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005W17HYY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00),the one for your application(120/240 V) would be : #D4151. I have had them on for 2 years ,they see daily uses and so far I have had zero problems, their best feature is the fact that these switches act the same as magnetic switches which means if the power tool is left in ON position and there's a power outage , the tool will not run after the power is restored unless you press the on button again.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439649528&sr=8-1&keywords=Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch

[glenn bradley]

If you pull the front cover you can get at the works to see if something is fouling the action. The button just pushes another button underneath. A similar switch on my Grizzly bandsaw has never given me any trouble but, for add-on switches I have had good luck with the Rockler version (http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch). This may just be luck but, mine isn't usually all that good ;-) I pick them up on sale and it seems it currently is on sale for just a few buck more than I paid years ago.

[Al Launier]

If you pull the front cover you can get at the works to see if something is fouling the action. The button just pushes another button underneath. A similar switch on my Grizzly bandsaw has never given me any trouble but, for add-on switches I have had good luck with the Rockler version (http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch). This may just be luck but, mine isn't usually all that good ;-) I pick them up on sale and it seems it currently is on sale for just a few buck more than I paid years ago.

Thanks Glenn, good suggestion.

I checked out the old switch & discovered the following. The "secondary" start button that is pushed in by the outer button did not retract after starting the TS. So, at your suggestion I removed the paddle switch cover to expose the housing underneath. I originally "ass-u-med" this was a sealed unit, so didn't pursue trouble shooting any further. However, it is held together by screws so I was able to disassemble it. Inside I found two ~1/8" dia. steel balls that were supposed to be on a inclined track, but the balls had somehow come off the track. They were blocking the button from returning to its "retract" position and causing the button to remain in the pushed-in position after starting the saw, and preventing any restart. I might add that there was a lot of crap within the housing accumulating on the balls, etc. that has some grease on them & elsewhere.

I cleaned it up, reset the balls & the start button now retracts on its own.

I'll check out the newer paddle switch, expecting to find basically the same situation. Thanks for motivating me off my lazy horse to check things out further.

[Curt Harms]

There seems to be a consensus that magnetic switches are worthwhile on machines that you don't want starting on their own in case of a power interruption. Grizzly offers at least a couple:

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-On-Off-Switch-120V/D4530

http://grizzly.com/products/120V-Magnetic-Switch/D4155

Both of these are for 110 volt, I don't see the above styles in 220 volt - just magnetic starts with overload protection built in for more $.

[Al Launier]

There seems to be a consensus that magnetic switches are worthwhile on machines that you don't want starting on their own in case of a power interruption. Grizzly offers at least a couple:

http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-On-Off-Switch-120V/D4530

http://grizzly.com/products/120V-Magnetic-Switch/D4155

Both of these are for 110 volt, I don't see the above styles in 220 volt - just magnetic starts with overload protection built in for more $.

Thanks for you suggestions Curt. However, I prefer to use a paddle switch that allows me to use my knee to shut off the TS. Also, my TS is 1.5 HP, so I feel the switch should be rated for that.

[ken masoumi]

There seems to be a consensus that magnetic switches are worthwhile on machines that you don't want starting on their own in case of a power interruption. .
The paddle switch I mentioned in my post share the same feature(tool will not run after power interruption) ,they are also very reliable and inexpensive ,I think it is a great feature for anyone looking to upgrade their tools regular switches to paddle type.
The OP asked "So, I'm wondering if there is a good quality paddle switch available for about the same price. Any suggestions?"
I thought the ones I linked might be a good alternative .

[glenn bradley]

I cleaned it up, reset the balls & the start button now retracts on its own.

Excellent. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to pay back a little for some of the great tips and info I've gotten here over the years.

[Curt Harms]

Thanks for you suggestions Curt. However, I prefer to use a paddle switch that allows me to use my knee to shut off the TS. Also, my TS is 1.5 HP, so I feel the switch should be rated for that.

True about being able to turn off with your knee. I repositioned the starter on a Grizz cab saw for the same reason. As long as one (off) button protrudes and the other (on) button is recessed, turning off with my leg works pretty reliably.