DSLR photography resources?

[Matt Meiser]

I'm thinking of getting back into photography as a hobby--haven't done anything but point and shoot pics since my early teens and again in college when I took a photography class. Everything's changed of coarse which meshes with my interest in computers and technology. Looking for some good resources for getting started and choosing an entry-mid level DSLR. Also could use some refreshers on the basics though I'm sure it will all come back to me, and I'm a complete noob on software--I can scale and crop and maybe fiddle with brightness and contrast but that's about it.

Thinking I might want to take some classes or seminars over the winter so if anyone semi-local knows of something, or if there's something online too, that would be great. Our community college offers some through community education that I need to check into but they sound extremely basic from the catalog.

[Dick Latshaw]

kelbyone.com
kenrockwell.com
photofocus.com
lynda.com
strobist.com
adobe.com

That should get you started.:)

[Jason Beam]

I watched a lot of Adorama TV videos on youtube when i was getting into it. I found Mark Wallace easy to digest most of the time. Very helpful getting me ramped up.

[Glenn Clabo]

One of the best all around photo sites is http://www.dpreview.com/forums/

http://www.glennclabo.com
(http://www.glennclabo.com)

[Stan Powers]

Check for a photo club in your area. Almost always a great group of people willing to share their knowledge. Also usually a good source for used equipment as the members trade up
.

[Mike Ontko]

I haven't had a subscription since the D in DSLR first came on the scene, but you might check out Popular Photography (http://www.popphoto.com/) as a side resource for product and how-to info.

B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/) is a reputable shop that you can purchase gear from online.

[Mark Stutz]

I did both a beginner and intermediate class at the local college. One night a week for 6 weeks. Really refreshed my memory on the basics of ISO, aperture, ss, dof, and the relationships between them, all the while getting some good practical advice from the 2 instructors.

Haven't had much time to do much on line. Can agree with B&H as a good source, though.

[Matt Marsh]

Matt,

I second DpReview.com as a valuable resource. I got started in it back in the Pentax K1000 era like a lot of folks did, and I had a lot of money invested in Pentax mount glass, so I ended up staying with Pentax when the DSLRs became the norm. I'm now on my second Pentax digital body (ist-D & K-7), and plan on buying the new full-frame if it is affordable when it comes out this fall. If I had the luxury of starting over from scratch, I'd concentrate my interest in Canon or Nikon, because of the greater supply of lenses and accessories. In the end though, it is foremost about the human behind the lens, and the quality of glass. I use Adobe Photoshop Elements as my primary editor, and I am also into HDR photography these days, so I use another program called Photomatix Pro, by HdrSoft. What ever software you decide on, make sure that it has a RAW converter built in, because if you're like most of us that progress a little beyond entry level enthusiast, you'll want the wider latitude of editing range that RAW gives you. Here is a shot from a local NHRA car show that I took last Saturday.

319467

[Matt Meiser]

I had a Canon A1 way back that my parents bought me used. I used it for that college class which included darkroom work. We have 5 prints from my final project from that class hanging in our foyer. At some point when the digital revolution was just starting I sold it on Ebay while I still could. I think my dad waited about 2 years and got essentially nothing for his.

[Jerry Thompson]

I have been doing photography for 40 years. I kind of slacked off when digital came in. I found a SONY DSLR that took my old Minolta lens and now I am off to the races again.
All new DSLR's are too expensive for me. I have been doing just fine with the old SONY. I have learned Photoshop Elements on Youtube and with some books.
I have gotten back to the ability I once had with film.
My medium and large format cameras would not sell for enough to by a lens cap these days.
You might look up KEH camera on web. I have purchased many items from them over the years. They sell used and I have never had a problem with any of there products.

[Dick Latshaw]

You might look up KEH camera on web. I have purchased many items from them over the years. They sell used and I have never had a problem with any of there products.

Same here. Adorama or B&H for new stuff. KEH for (really good) used stuff.

[Matt Meiser]

Thanks for all the links.

Question...I see a number of "deals" out there right now. Is there a better time of year to buy, for example should I expect to see better "deals" around the holidays or new-model introduction time?

[Tom M King]

I had a Canon A1 way back that my parents bought me used. I used it for that college class which included darkroom work. We have 5 prints from my final project from that class hanging in our foyer. At some point when the digital revolution was just starting I sold it on Ebay while I still could. I think my dad waited about 2 years and got essentially nothing for his.
I still have an A1 that I bought new, and several lenses. I don't think it's been used in 25 years. I did take the battery out of it.

We just bought a D5300, to upgrade an old D40, and we're really pleased with it. It's a couple of generations old, which means it was really a good deal-less than 500 for the body-using lenses we already had. I have no need to have the latest, greatest, fanciest.

[Glenn Clabo]

Thanks for all the links.

Question...I see a number of "deals" out there right now. Is there a better time of year to buy, for example should I expect to see better "deals" around the holidays or new-model introduction time?

I would recommend that you don't get caught up in waiting for deals. Set a price point...and then see what's out there that feels good and gets you excited. I'm a Canon guy...but I don't believe the name really helps a beginner to learn what it takes to get an interesting shot. The basics of photography can be learned by study but learning by taking pictures and self/others critiques really helps you to improve more rapidly. What you pay for the ability to take the picture can be a point and shoot...if you don't have the funds to get a more complex camera.

One of my pet peeves is when someone sees one of my pictures and says...man you must has an expensive camera. To me it's like telling a chief...man you must have an expensive knife. I find it really amusing when they find out I don't just use my expensive gear...it maybe just an old phone...or one of my point and shoots. If you become a pro...then you need a more reliable and capable tool. Sound familiar?

[Matt Meiser]

I guess my question was more of should I hurry to take advantage of one of these so I'm not kicking myself in a month or two or are there going to be similar deals two months from now because everything is always on sale? Some are at Costco, so there's always an option to return within 90 days if I made a mistake but several of their deals expire in a couple weeks. Pricing seems to be the same at B&H, Best Buy, Costco, Amazon, etc for Nikon and Canon, and Nikon is advertising that on their own site as sale pricing.

For example in two lower-end price ranges:
Nikon D3300 bundle, $650
http://www.costco.com/.product.100161421.html

Canon EOS Rebel T5 bundle $500
http://www.costco.com/.product.100128185.html

[David Masters]

You might see some deals closer to Christmas. I bought my daughter a Nikon 3200 with and 18~55mm and a 55~200mm lens for around $450. But from my experience, camera deals can be found pretty much every quarter. I have brought from B&H Photo, Adorama, Cameta, Roberts, and Amazon and all have been good experiences.

I was much like you 15 years ago, where after active in photography in high school, I wanted to get back into it. At the time, film was the only affordable choice out there. Today I shoot with a Nikon DSLR and an Olympus mirror less camera for my point-n'-shoot. But it doesn't matter what camera you choose, as all take good pictures. What's different is the human interface — the layout of the functions and buttons, as well as the ease of navigating the menu system. As others have mentioned, preview.com is a good place to go to determine what camera to buy and ask questions about specific functions.

Other than a basic understanding of how ISO, shutter speed, and aperture work, I had to start over. The following books helped me:

• Simplified Zone System - Farzad
• Understanding Exposure - Peterson
• Light Science & Magic - Hunter, Biver, Fuqua (a little more advanced, but if you really want to understand light, this is the book)
• Picture This: How Pictures Work - Bang
• The Photographer's Eye - Freeman
• Learning to See Creatively - Peterson

YouTube has a lot of material on photography. Bryan Peterson has a great deal of information on exposure, depth of field, and composition broken into 3-5 minute segments. When you're ready to go beyond built-in flash, stroblist is a great place to learn from.

Dave

[Dick Latshaw]

I guess my question was more of should I hurry to take advantage of one of these so I'm not kicking myself in a month or two or are there going to be similar deals two months from now because everything is always on sale?


Don't be in a hurry. There are always deals. It's not like MiniMax having a sale and then the price goes back up, or up higher.

At the moment, and probably for the foreseeable future, the market is loaded with DSLR's, particularly last years model DSLR's. The good news is that last years model, and the previous year's model, are almost the same. Very small incremental changes, for the most part. Check the specs and find something you like. I wouldn't overlook refurbs - they are often times better than new (better quality control).

If I were buying right now at the upper end of the prosumer range, Adorama has a Nikon D7100 body, refurbed by Nikon USA, last years model, for $630. I would then go to KEH and find one or more lenses that I liked. For example, a Nikon 35-70 2.8 zoom (which was Nikon's pro lens a few years back) in EX+ condition, for $418. ( I have one and it stays on my camera most of the time)

Lots of options at the moment.

[Jim Becker]

Matt, there are some very good groups on Facebook for both Nikon and Cannon users. I'm in a couple of the Nikon groups and have learned a substantial amount in a relatively short period of time because of the requirement to post EXIF data with photos and the available critique.

I pretty much purchase all my gear from B&H Photo...excellent service with no risk of grey market, free shipping, etc.

I can't help you with the Canon side of things, but if you can swing it and are leaning Nikon, try really hard to go for the D7xxx series including at Costco. Why? Because it has the internal focus motor, opening up all of the older glass to you. The D3xxxx and D5xxx bodies can only use the most recent AF-S lenses if you want auto-focus--the lenses have an integral focus motor. D7xxx can use almost any Nikkor lens that you're likely to find and honestly, it's the glass that matters over time. Buying previous generation lenses can save significant money. And trust me...there's this concept called GAS that you will absolutely get afflicted with. (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) :D

[Matt Meiser]

I really wanted to get "in" in the 500-700 range. My research kept going back to the D3300 and that Costco deal looked like a great option so I picked it up. Worst case if I decide a month from now it was a mistake they'll happily take it back. I figure if I really get into this I'll end up buying up no matter what and I figured sticking to Nikon or Canon gets me the most options there for buying new or old.

Jim, what are the names of those Nikon groups?

Should I start with free software or just bit the bullet and subscribe to Photoshop?

[David Masters]

You'll probably find that Adobe Lightroom will do pretty much everything you want for a while. DXO is a tool I use that does a good job of automating lens correction and general exposure correction. Google's NIK tool suite is another I'd look at. I don't do much in Photoshop these days, unless I need to do come really heavy editing. Photoshop has a high learning curve and for simple editing, it is really far more than your need. If you really want to use Photoshop, I think you should look at Photoshop Elements first, as it cost under $70 and can use most of the Photoshop filters that 3rd parties market.

Dave

[Matt Meiser]

From my understanding Photoshop and Lightroom are part of the same $10/mo subscription--am I understanding that right?

[David Masters]

Yes, that is correct, but the only choice I see is that you need to make an annual commitment. When I read Adobe's terms, I didn't see anything mentioned about what happens if you decide to terminate early.

Dave

[Matt Meiser]

Yes I think that's right re-reading. It's just a matter of whether you want to make 12 payments or one. I downloaded the trial so I have 30 days to decide.

[Jim Becker]

The subscription for LR6 and PS CS6 is a darn good deal...I went to that earlier in the year myself. And I agree that you'll likely use LR the most (99% of what I do with photos, but having PS available for "those moments" when deeper editing is required is nice. Alway having current, updated versions is very nice and with LR, there are a few features that come with the subscription model that are not in the (still available, but hard to find) packaged version. I pay monthly; the cost isn't materially different than paying for the year, although sometimes B&H offers a discounted subscription on an annual payment. If you terminate your subscription, most of the functionality of the software is disabled, but the software isn't removed from your computer.

The Facebook groups I like for Nikon are NDCPE and Nikon REAL, especially the former. Be sure to read the rules before posting photos in both groups. They are designed for learning purposes so EXIF is required for both. Drop me a line if you have any questions...I know you're "friends" with some of my "friends"...

I'll also suggest a book such as Darrell Young's "Beyond Point and Shoot". It will help you really get beyond shooting in "auto". He also has camera specific books which are great. I'm patiently awaiting his D750 book that's due out soon for my own edification.

[Matt Meiser]

I'll also suggest a book such as Darrell Young's "Beyond Point and Shoot". It will help you really get beyond shooting in "auto". He also has camera specific books which are great. I'm patiently awaiting his D750 book that's due out soon for my own edification.

This was a great book for me. Great refresher on the stuff I knew at one time and still need to know, concepts that are no longer that important at least to start, and all the new stuff. Starting on a book by Tony Northrop that gets a lot of good reviews next. It's got a lot of video to go with it to watch too.

I also ordered a tripod from B&H and subscribed to Lightroom and Photoshop (found an Amazon deal where I get back $25 in a month) and a coworker sent me some Lightroom videos. LOML is encouraging me to sign up for a couple adult Ed classes at our community college too.

[Barry McFadden]

This is a great website for reviews on pretty much any camera out there.. http://www.steves-digicams.com/

[Matt Meiser]

And bought a monopod and a head to match the one on the tripod. And a flash. And some other small stuff. You guys are right, this is expensive.

A semi-local camera shop has a used 70-200 2.8 lens that would fit my camera at a really nice price too right now...so tempting for my daughter's games.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

New Mirrorlless cameras (Sony) are amazing and surpass low end DSLRs. Small Sensor DSLRs are just not worth the weight. Full Frame DSLRs are another thing.

[Brett Luna]

I've been a Canon guy since buying an AE-1P in 1981. Still have it in a box. I've been shooting with a 20D for several years buy I'm spooling up to by the full frame 6D in a month or so.

Another sight I recommend is FredMiranda.com (http://www.fredmiranda.com/) where you find reviews, ratings, articles, a forum...

[Jim Becker]

And bought a monopod and a head to match the one on the tripod. And a flash. And some other small stuff. You guys are right, this is expensive.

Yup...GAS. Gear Acquisition Syndrome. :) :D



A semi-local camera shop has a used 70-200 2.8 lens that would fit my camera at a really nice price too right now...so tempting for my daughter's games.

I recently scored the Nikkor 70-200 f4 VR "used" (it was literally pristine) for 60% of the cost of new. 70-200 is outstanding for sports (and is the equivalent of ~105-300 on your DX body)...I shoot equestrian as you know from FB and have found it to be a great focal length for that purpose. The 2.8 version is a step up and if it's available at a good price, it's very worthy of your consideration...it's outstanding in every way. Heavy bugger, though... ;) Don't put it on a cheap tripod!

[Red OLeary]

The basics of exposure haven't changed much, you might want to look into ETTR and see if that suits you shooting style. I've been shooting from a tripod so long I'm virtually incapable of a hand held shot, but it allows me the time to think about all the settings etc. Another thing that's fun for landscapes is Black Card Technique (just in camera dodging). At the end of the day Zeros and Ones are a lot cheaper than film ever was, so go shoot a bunch come back home and see what you can learn from what you did. I'm a huge fan of Lightroom, I'm fairly competent with it but I'm effectively scared of Photoshop. :) I do the subscription thing from Adobe for Lr and Ps and I'm happy with the service. Anthony Morganti (https://www.youtube.com/user/AnthonyMorganti)has some really nice videos on Lr which have been very helpful to me and they're free.

[Matt Meiser]

The 80-200 it turns out had a focus issue if you tried to focus right around 20', about impossible to do in their shop so they hadn't caught it. I did end up buying a new Sigma 70-200 2.8 because I expect to be doing a lot of shooting at my daughter's volleyball games which of course are indoor.

[David Masters]

I think you made a good decision. Although the 80-200 is a good lens, it can be expensive to fix them. I just dropped $550 to repair a Nikon 17~35mm f/2.8 lens that had its internal focusing motor go out. I've heard good things about Sigma lenses.

[Jim Becker]

Sigma, Tamron and Tokina all have some really great lenses these days. They are every bit pro quality and sometimes test better than the equivalent Nikkors, but offer a more attractive price if the Nikkor isn't affordable. While all my current lenses are Nikkor (35mm 1.8G, 50mm 1.8G, 85mm 1.8G, 24-120 f4 and 70-200 f4) I'm seriously considering the Tokina 16-28 f2.8 for a super wide angle option. And it's about half the price of the Nikon 16-35 f4.