Booth table top

[jim mills]

I want to make a booth type table top 3' x 5' anchored to the wall on the inboard side, and supported by one leg on the outboard side. I want to use QS white oak, but all I have on hand is some really nice 4/4. Looking for ideas on how to make the table top thicker without having to purchase thicker QSWO. :confused: Thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

So how's the leg going to attach to the table top?
How 'bout this... The leg mortise-and-tenons at the top into a stretcher that runs the width of the top, or nearly the width. It is 2-3 inches tall. Maybe the end of the top rests on it. Or maybe the top dives into it, the way a top dives into a breadboard end. Because the stretcher has some height, it takes care of making the table top appear to be thicker, as well as anchoring the top of the leg.

[Peter Quinn]

I've done them where you make the top give or take 8" wider than you want and 4" longer, then cut the last 4" of each side and the end, fold the sides under and glue them on, then carefully fit the end grain cut off between these two edges and glue that in too. Makes the top look however thick you want , grain match is pretty good, stiffens an otherwise thin top. You can glue up two pieces of of 4/4 as a cleat to which you can connect the leg to hold the top, this too will stiffen the top. 4/4 is pushing it even in oak for a top that big, I'd be looking for a 7/8" minimum finished thickness, preferably 1" for my taste, but most real booth tables are just a buildup of 3/4" particle board with doubled edges and a few stiffeners across the middle, so doing the same basic thing in QSWO should yield a pretty stiff finished product.

[jim mills]

So how's the leg going to attach to the table top?
How 'bout this... The leg mortise-and-tenons at the top into a stretcher that runs the width of the top, or nearly the width. It is 2-3 inches tall. Maybe the end of the top rests on it. Or maybe the top dives into it, the way a top dives into a breadboard end. Because the stretcher has some height, it takes care of making the table top appear to be thicker, as well as anchoring the top of the leg.

Good idea, except they want the option of seating at the outboard end of the table. I wanted to put the leg about a foot inboard to allow for this. I was definitely thinking about a "T" shaped leg/stretcher though.


I've done them where you make the top give or take 8" wider than you want and 4" longer, then cut the last 4" of each side and the end, fold the sides under and glue them on, then carefully fit the end grain cut off between these two edges and glue that in too. Makes the top look however thick you want , grain match is pretty good, stiffens an otherwise thin top. You can glue up two pieces of of 4/4 as a cleat to which you can connect the leg to hold the top, this too will stiffen the top. 4/4 is pushing it even in oak for a top that big, I'd be looking for a 7/8" minimum finished thickness, preferably 1" for my taste, but most real booth tables are just a buildup of 3/4" particle board with doubled edges and a few stiffeners across the middle, so doing the same basic thing in QSWO should yield a pretty stiff finished product.

I'm pretty sure I could get 7/8 out of this stock. double it & I end up with 1 3/4. Might be just fine. I was thinking about the possibility of an apron, but that might look kinda weird, or like I just took an old table & cut the legs off of it & made a booth out of it. But hey, I could call it "up-cycling" and charge more!;)

[Peter Quinn]

Jim, I like the apron idea, should stiffen the top pretty well, you could even make a sort of single tressel leg, might look cool having half of real table as a booth top rather than the typical slab with single pole leg.