Trestle table build

[Brian Holcombe]

Good evening!

Before I get started, I just want to say the bed build is complete, but I need to shuffle around some furniture in the house before I take final photos. The cabinet will resume shortly, but at the moment this build is taking priority and should be a quick one.

This table is being built for a friend of mine, he's an artist and will be using this to spread out paints and so forth.

it's being built to dining table height, but the breadboard ends will be shaped like wings to capture any rolling paints. The long sides will be grooved for the same purpose. If ever it needs to actually function as a dining table the breadboard ends can be changed and it will be able to comfortably seat two. By that point I hope it has earned itself an interesting patina having spent time in the artist's studio.

While I do enjoy building things that are cherished and left mostly unchanged in years of use, this is particularly interesting for me to build something that will be put to use functionally. I feel that the things we truly cherish are those that become part of our intimate surroundings. So it is an honor to build a piece that will be included in the life of a friend in such a way.

[Brian Holcombe]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4BE40179-766A-4163-A36E-C8E9997A7402_zpsnniskzhf.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/4BE40179-766A-4163-A36E-C8E9997A7402_zpsnniskzhf.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B925B5E5-81A4-4AE7-B470-D3C7F33C3997_zpsg0xgiunb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B925B5E5-81A4-4AE7-B470-D3C7F33C3997_zpsg0xgiunb.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/27A51288-65BC-4E10-BABE-5964ED7A733C_zpswokna78o.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/27A51288-65BC-4E10-BABE-5964ED7A733C_zpswokna78o.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/16FEE710-8A31-4085-AEDE-30FC07870E12_zpsunki2zwi.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/16FEE710-8A31-4085-AEDE-30FC07870E12_zpsunki2zwi.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/D5029DC3-844A-44D5-9306-7DB7F8CECDAD_zps2uwyafhi.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/D5029DC3-844A-44D5-9306-7DB7F8CECDAD_zps2uwyafhi.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/A1B7A242-BA62-4254-A4C3-2F6CAB26955E_zps7pnytl9a.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/A1B7A242-BA62-4254-A4C3-2F6CAB26955E_zps7pnytl9a.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2ED21B57-8CB1-4948-9607-247814064143_zpsr9ngn7ke.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/2ED21B57-8CB1-4948-9607-247814064143_zpsr9ngn7ke.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8BA6C93D-A640-4207-B6DC-B4E80C302250_zpstttaauxm.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/8BA6C93D-A640-4207-B6DC-B4E80C302250_zpstttaauxm.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/0241F6B7-95EE-4C38-ADD6-7770A32B64AD_zpsknmperhv.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/0241F6B7-95EE-4C38-ADD6-7770A32B64AD_zpsknmperhv.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5C3EEED9-A269-4DCB-977F-8D648D2F5BCD_zpsyo6syl0y.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/5C3EEED9-A269-4DCB-977F-8D648D2F5BCD_zpsyo6syl0y.jpg.html)


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B2A8C1E2-1B89-4F9F-950F-18E16540180D_zpsqejaelay.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/B2A8C1E2-1B89-4F9F-950F-18E16540180D_zpsqejaelay.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

This is all handtools with a few exceptions. For the sake of time I have been rough sawing with my festool track saw, beyond that 100% of the dimensioning is with hand tools. Sometimes I'm sure that seems a little crazy, but there is a wonderful benefit....it's all ready for finish right off the plane. The boards in the pile of stock are all gleaming, I will cut the joinery on them, make a few more finish passes, miter the edges and they will be ready for oil finish.

I truly do not miss sanding. :D

The first photos in the group are the beginnings of the top, I started by jointing the backs, then the sides, then gluing up the panel one joint at a time. I revisited the jointed surface to bring it back to flat after gluing then flipped the panel over and cut it to thickness.

Afterward I dim'd the battens, then followed up by cutting the joinery. The housings were cut out with a dado plane and then the sides cut with side rabbet planes that has a dovetail fence.

The same side rabbet plane can be used for cutting the male ends, but I actually prefer that ECE plane with the modified fence. It has a nicker built and cuts a sharper inside corner because of that.

Next I will create the breadboard ends and attach them....or I will cut the quad tenons which will be exposed on the top side of the table. I debated hiding this joinery, but since this piece will be put to such practical use I decided to display them.

[Christopher Charles]

Oooh, another build thread so quickly on the heels of the bed build! I admire your focus, especially with a young one in the house. I also agree that the patina of use increases the preciousness of an object and I'm sure this table will become a treasured item for your friend. And nice cherry. I'm a sucker for cherry...

C

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Christopher! Believe it or not this is the first build that I've used cherry. I've ignored the wood for years but finally decided to give it a chance. It turns out to be a very enjoyable wood to work with and it really turns up a beautiful surface right off the plane.

The tabletop needs more work with the finish plane but even in these early stages I can tell that it's going to turn up a wonderful shine.

[Phil Mueller]

Great work, as usual. Looking forward to seeing the completed bed build.
I promise I will not divert this thread, but at some point-a separate thread perhaps-could you post a full picture of your work bench. It seems you use no vises.. Just holdfasts and clamps and cleverly placed mortises in the top. Perhaps you have in a past thread you could direct me to. Given your accomplished hand tool experience, I'd appreciate a bit of reference for my workbench project.
And now back to the table project....

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Phil! I'll post one up later today. I use a tail vise and a shoulder vise, however for so many operations I use holdfasts or battens.

I plan to start using Japanese planes soon, so I will modify the far end of my bench to take a drop-in planing stop.

I like my LN planes, but I will begin to relegate them more strictly to their best purpose, the #7 for instance I think is best for edge jointing but for these large panels I'm starting to yearn for a more appropriate tool for face jointing.

[Sean Hughto]

Seems wildly fancy for a studio work table, but maybe the artists I know are just extra messy. Looks like a nice build from here!

[ryan paulsen]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4BE40179-766A-4163-A36E-C8E9997A7402_zpsnniskzhf.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/4BE40179-766A-4163-A36E-C8E9997A7402_zpsnniskzhf.jpg.html)



Thank you for the pictures, I always find these posts so informative. I do have a question, based on my limited knowledge it appears you would plane this board left to right? Are you left handed? Just curious, as I'm always trying to learn. Thanks!

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents! Sean, it's a bit aspirational for it's intended purpose, but I like to think of it along the lines of shop furniture.

Ryan, I was only cutting crossgrain in that photo. I'm right handed, I forget if this was the one but one of them I had to flip around to face joint.

[ryan paulsen]

Ryan, I was only cutting crossgrain in that photo. I'm right handed, I forget if this was the one but one of them I had to flip around to face joint.

Thanks! I look forward to following this thread.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Brian.
And don't think for a second we didn't catch that nice woodie in picture #5. You are clever with that tool porn.

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Brian Holcombe;2452610]This is all handtools with a few exceptions. For the sake of time I have been rough sawing with my festool track saw, beyond that 100% of the dimensioning is with hand tools. Sometimes I'm sure that seems a little crazy, but there is a wonderful benefit....it's all ready for finish right off the plane. The boards in the pile of stock are all gleaming, I will cut the joinery on them, make a few more finish passes, miter the edges and they will be ready for oil finish.

I truly do not miss sanding. :D
Brian, I always enjoy your build threads, with your outstanding hand tool work and great pics and am definitely looking forward to the rest of this one!

I confess I too like dimensioning my stock with hand tools; using hand tool friendly woods, you can move right along, get in a little exercise and as you correctly point out – end up with gleaming boards ready for finish right off the plane. Avoiding sanding in my book is a HUGE benefit. My mis-perception that one couldn't reasonably dimension stock with hand tools was the single biggest misconception that made me think I had to have a TS and Joiner to do any kind of woodworking.



The housings were cut out with a dado plane and then the sides cut with side rabbet planes that has a dovetail fence.The same side rabbet plane can be used for cutting the male ends, but I actually prefer that ECE plane with the modified fence. It has a nicker built and cuts a sharper inside corner because of that.


Like you, I use an ECE plane to cut the male part of the sliding DT, but I've never tried to make the female part of the sliding dovetail with hand tools ( I bite the bullet and use an electric router), but I would like to give it a try. I read your thread about sliding dovetails for the trestle table battens and the related link to the same subject on Derek's site with great interest. I would very much appreciate your advice/suggestions on the best tools for the job; I have a Stanley 73, but I struggle with adjusting the depth of cut and being able to use it cross grain to cut the angled wall for the dovetail housing. I notice you using what look like HT Gordon side rabbit planes – how would you compare them to the Stanley 73 for this job?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and for taking the time to post your build pics here in the cave.

All the best, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks fellas! Nice catch Phil!

Mike, my pleasure! After having cut a bunch of these with electric routers I find the hand planes much more enjoyable to use. The trouble I have with the electric router is that it's a very coarse adjustment and you generally have to take a full length pass. I noticed that on wide panels I could not get a batten close enough to the cut when using a router, so I would need to back of the batten and then the cut is not dead flat unless the board is perfectly flat...that would result in fit issues that were difficult to overcome.

When you are cutting with hand planes you can relieve the housing where it's tight. I'll knock the board into the housing then wiggle it to see which areas are tight and adjust and area around them with the side rabbet.

It used to take me a good long while to cut the housings with the router and it was nerve wracking, this is a cake walk. I set the depth on my dado plane, then transfer those depths to a router plane and to the side rabbet plane. If I notice I'm not getting the extreme bottom corner with my side rabbet, then I can follow up with the router plane and sharpen up the corner.

I haven't used the stanley 73, but I can say that the HNT gordon side rabbet is wonderful to use.

I have to say I nearly gave up on using this joint until I converted the entire process to handtools.

[Christopher Charles]

Brian,

I continue to be inspired by your approach and techniques and am thinking about how to start incorporating sliding dovetails into some upcoming pieces. I'm realizing that you must use a few marking and mortise gauges and that's something i'm limited on right now. Would you share a photo or two of your stable and a few thoughts on how you use them in a project? Could be here or a separate thread.. Oh, and you could reveal you secrets for productivity in what must be a very busy life outside the shop.

Thanks,
grasshopper

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Christopher! Looking forward to seeing what you build!

I have four gauges; a matsui, a kinshirou, a blue spruce and a LN panel gauge. My favourite is the matsui, it's the smoothest of them. I may add a few more matsui's to the stable, I like them that much. I bought the Kinshirou because of how famous it was, but truth be told the matsui is a smoother operating gauge and just as finely finished.

A typical day in the workshop for me is 12-15 hours, but I think the trick to getting a lot of work done is planning, if you work out the details on paper then when you are in the shop you're going to be focused on process rather than planning. I work toward process efficiency on a constant basis, so in my down time I will spend time working on my tools to make sure they're ready and fine tuned. That ECE plane, for instance, required a lot of work but now it cuts like a dream. I add things to the stable to speed up workflow, for instance; a chamfer plane cuts a clean consistent chamfer in seconds, where as using a finish plane takes longer and does a poorer job.

Time on the tools is important, you learn the ins and outs of every tool once you have done some problem solving on it. My absolute hair pullers have been the LN planes, specifically the A2 blades.

I think it's wise to have a go-to sharpening procedure so that you're not spending all day at the stones. Have quick checks for failure. IE if your plane is not cutting well, tear it down and check everything. Sticky planes will slow your efforts down a lot, so as soon as I'm working through a pass and the plane is not taking clear easy cuts, I tear it down and sharpen.

My thinking has evolved quite a bit over time with regard to tools. I believe it was Warren who said it best, ( apologies for my paraphrase) that we come from a machine tool way of thinking, in context he was referring to planning but actually I think it is everything from tool choice on through the project. My thoughts have turned toward the workers of yesterday and how they approached their work and what choices they made for tooling....and how quickly they were able to work with 100% hand tools because their choices were good ones and because they were expert in using those tools.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5D960E30-3B27-4BB5-8929-CE0D8391877E_zpshzp2rbb1.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/5D960E30-3B27-4BB5-8929-CE0D8391877E_zpshzp2rbb1.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2560FC89-8C7E-41AD-8930-2F5319111E8C_zpsubbo0bnm.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/2560FC89-8C7E-41AD-8930-2F5319111E8C_zpsubbo0bnm.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/9FBE7277-42EF-406E-9B42-97A93D2C9FFC_zpsjyxldbpk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/9FBE7277-42EF-406E-9B42-97A93D2C9FFC_zpsjyxldbpk.jpg.html)

[george wilson]

Great work!!

Back in the 60's I became thoroughly enamored with cherry to the extent that I was even using it to make flamenco guitars instead of the traditional Spanish cypress. They sounded fine. I made quite a few cherry guitars. Spruce tops,of course.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks George! The wood is truly addictive, it works beautifully, I don't know what it is about it but my wife saw the freshly planed cherry and said that she wanted me to make her something from it as well.

Those guitars sound awesome, I know chances are probably slim but if you happen to have a photo of one of them I'd love to see it.

[James Pallas]

Brian Well done. Did you size the battens to fit your tool set up or did they just work out well with your ECE plane. I like cherry also. Wife likes oak so I don't get a chance to work with cherry often. It is nice of you to share all of this. I know it takes a lot of time.
Jim

[Mike Holbrook]

Great work Brian, love the grain in the wood. Looks like a great wood mallet too. I am going to study up on your tools for making those joints. Ohhh no, more planes!

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents!

James, not sure exactly what you mean? are you talking about the thickness of the battens? All of the planes are good for a broad range of sizes. The 1/4" dado plane is limited, but one can always move the batten and just gang up the cuts.

It's atypical, but generally I work off the stock. For this I'm going to be attaching uprights that are going to lock into the top. I want the quad tenons to each be sized at 1/3~ thickness of the overall thickness of the material (1-3/4" thick by 4"). So, I sized the dovetails to fall under that dimension in the center....so that they can operate without disturbance and so that I dont have to cut into them to fit the tenons.

The battens will have to be trimmed up in the center to account for this, but it will not affect the joint.

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Brian,

Thanks for your list of gauges, I recall you posts on the Matsui and have been considering one or similar for myself for a while now. Thanks too for the photos of your tool wall. I like the simple approach. And good to see that you sharpen traditional Japanese style :)

Thanks to for sharing some of your process. I agree planning is important and is even more true for me as 12-15 hour days in the shop are simply not part of my landscape right now. In fact a full hour feels like luxury, which explains my lack of recent build projects. That said, I am in the beginning stages of planning the next piece, but it is behind some house projects. Hope to get going early this fall.

George, I'd love to see the cherry guitars as well!

Cheers,
Chris

[James Pallas]

Brian it just appeared to me that you were using the plane fence and your bench together to guide the plane. Great work your doing always enjoy your builds and the presentations.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Christopher, anytime! Glad you are enjoying.

Hah, not sure how much longer I can deal with sharpening on the floor, I think you'll see a sharpening bench and stool soon.

James, I see it could look that way from the photo, but that's only using the fence as a reference. Thank you, Glad you are enjoying as well!

[Brian Holcombe]

Much time spent on the saw today! Hah, but hopefully to good effect;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/FD7B1D4D-E0EB-471C-9389-4EF575B1CE11_zpsdymopmtt.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/FD7B1D4D-E0EB-471C-9389-4EF575B1CE11_zpsdymopmtt.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/3762093D-EEEC-4B3C-8E0D-76FD29957A04_zpsbjhjafgc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/3762093D-EEEC-4B3C-8E0D-76FD29957A04_zpsbjhjafgc.jpg.html)

Finishing sawing those in two ways, I could have cheated but I wanted to retain the additional stock for future use

Started these by flattening the backs
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/C179FD99-73C4-4B0C-B59C-6D57F9C11184_zpsxecpknzq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/C179FD99-73C4-4B0C-B59C-6D57F9C11184_zpsxecpknzq.jpg.html)

Then reference for the sides and finally sawing the first angle, this is the attachment point for the table edge.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/0670CD9F-796A-4B21-B94F-56C465FA0763_zpsjmykutzo.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/0670CD9F-796A-4B21-B94F-56C465FA0763_zpsjmykutzo.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/757A1160-31ED-4F0C-B52A-36F6AAE5FD2D_zpsh6mdtczg.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/757A1160-31ED-4F0C-B52A-36F6AAE5FD2D_zpsh6mdtczg.jpg.html)

I planed that flat and true, then clamped this up with a batten and cut the groove with a grooving plane. Sorry I skipped the photos in the moment
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/DAAE9B62-AFFF-48FD-B5E5-78E3BDA6F725_zpsjbwjhx7y.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/DAAE9B62-AFFF-48FD-B5E5-78E3BDA6F725_zpsjbwjhx7y.jpg.html)

Next I use the dovetail plane on both the housing and on the table edge, maintaining a comparable taper on both
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/08C34AB8-F371-4146-8645-955D7580932B_zps5zvxosuw.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/08C34AB8-F371-4146-8645-955D7580932B_zps5zvxosuw.jpg.html)

Test fitting

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/A8852A1D-C38B-4BB7-81E6-3515E63D8398_zpsm7swuatr.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/A8852A1D-C38B-4BB7-81E6-3515E63D8398_zpsm7swuatr.jpg.html)

Now making out for the second angle
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/A4CB5C63-2AD0-4767-B953-F7A07DDDFD24_zpsbdslhoqn.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/A4CB5C63-2AD0-4767-B953-F7A07DDDFD24_zpsbdslhoqn.jpg.html)

and sawing
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/2B89FC84-BBE8-4BBE-BBB1-615AB6E8A37A_zpsl8gjdrgq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/2B89FC84-BBE8-4BBE-BBB1-615AB6E8A37A_zpsl8gjdrgq.jpg.html)

I trued that cut, cut another angle at the bottom, then rounded over the edges with a spoke shave and finally finished it all to a nice texture with the smoothing plane
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/609B4AC7-6F1E-4915-AE1A-96F80D6B7B65_zpslldspoyq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/609B4AC7-6F1E-4915-AE1A-96F80D6B7B65_zpslldspoyq.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/F9B62A1A-F2CF-42A2-9526-4A15A71C272F_zpsi8xexlal.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/F9B62A1A-F2CF-42A2-9526-4A15A71C272F_zpsi8xexlal.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/1D80FB55-9796-4C8B-A99C-6D7C4A8F0621_zpseqfwqjy3.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/1D80FB55-9796-4C8B-A99C-6D7C4A8F0621_zpseqfwqjy3.jpg.html)

I dont know what it is about these wings, but I think they are pretty neat. Obviously a bit overboard for the goal in mind, but they double as battens and are super sturdy.

These are purposefully left long at the moment.

[James Pallas]

Brian Very good work. Also shows off the versatility of your style of bench. Sometimes those tail and shoulder vises don't get the credit they deserve. You use them to great advantage.
Jim

[Andrew Gold]

Time on the tools is important, you learn the ins and outs of every tool once you have done some problem solving on it. My absolute hair pullers have been the LN planes, specifically the A2 blades.



Brian, can you expand on what you mean here? I'm guessing that you're saying the A2 has been difficult to learn to work with as it's too hard? Merely guessing, but would love to hear more thoughts on the matter.

(thanks!)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks James!

Andrew, my experience with A2 has been that it is difficult to maintain the backs (because the stuff is very resistant to abrasion) and that it will lose it's extreme keen edge quickly and stay in a sort of semi-dull stage for a very long time. High carbon steels (non-alloy) will actually dull faster but remain more consistent in how they degrade so you have a very keen edge longer.

Here's a for instance, I wear out my jointer blade (a2) and my large chisel blade (White steel #1). On the large paring chisel blade I can remove the wear bevel on the back of the blade quite literally on a finish stone then put some laps on the bevel, remove the burr and I'm back to work. However on the A2 I literally have had to go down to 1000 grit to remove the wear bevel and work my way back up to 13000.

I've actually gone to the point of grinding a hollow into the jointer blade so that I can work the back with more ease. If I cant get that wear bevel gone then I'm back at the sharping stone in 1 board or less, if I can remove it with success I can work about 1/2 the day on one hone.

I've also been getting away from stones that require soaking in my routine. I can get away with my sigma 13000 just splash and go but truly it requires a soak. So I've landed on Japanese natural stones and they also tend to work best with plain carbon steel or blue steel alloy....or what Tasai has made for him. ....they dont do well with A2.

It wont be long before you see my finish plane move from a LN bronze #4 to a Japanese Kanna with a white steel blade. I plan to stop using my #7 jointer on anything more than edge jointing and eventually start using a wooden try plane on planels. Pushing the #7 over panels is hellish at best, as soon as the wax wears off the sole that thing is a bear to push.

[Bill Adamsen]

Nice clean racking system. Cherry is fabulous ... great to work with hand-lools, it is highly photo reactive ... but in a pleasing way (imo).

[Reinis Kanders]

I really enjoy your build posts.
Wooden 22" try plane is probably bees knees if you can find one in good condition. Is that what you have in mind? I have Mathieson 24" jointer, but it is not light.

I have been using old No.6 with PMV blade when flattening larger things, it is pretty light a bit more then 6 lbs, definitely lighter than my ECE 24" wooden jointer with the same size blade. I just finished my Ash workbench top and I hand S3S-ed all of it. I ended up using No.6 a lot and in combination with straightedge it was easier and quicker then even the wood jointers.

[Andrew Gold]

I've also been getting away from stones that require soaking in my routine. I can get away with my sigma 13000 just splash and go but truly it requires a soak. So I've landed on Japanese natural stones and they also tend to work best with plain carbon steel or blue steel alloy....or what Tasai has made for him. ....they dont do well with A2.

It wont be long before you see my finish plane move from a LN bronze #4 to a Japanese Kanna with a white steel blade. I plan to stop using my #7 jointer on anything more than edge jointing and eventually start using a wooden try plane on planels. Pushing the #7 over panels is hellish at best, as soon as the wax wears off the sole that thing is a bear to push.

Brian, thank you for the detailed response I really appreciate your experience here. Feel free to respond via PM if I'm drifting too far...

I'm curious where you're leaning towards starting with Jnats. I'm just getting back into woodworking following about a ten year hiatus as I started a remodeling company, and am using handtools as an ever greater component of my work. I've just switched from sharpening with norton stones to choseras, which I'm currently loving, but am curious about jnats...

I have a dim understanding of your comments on A2 vs white/blue steel, I certainly see the impacts of the hardness when it comes to changing bevel angles or removing chips.

Again, thank you for your detailed thoughts.
A

[Brian Holcombe]

Nice clean racking system. Cherry is fabulous ... great to work with hand-lools, it is highly photo reactive ... but in a pleasing way (imo).

Thanks Bill!


I really enjoy your build posts.
Wooden 22" try plane is probably bees knees if you can find one in good condition. Is that what you have in mind? I have Mathieson 24" jointer, but it is not light.

I have been using old No.6 with PMV blade when flattening larger things, it is pretty light a bit more then 6 lbs, definitely lighter than my ECE 24" wooden jointer with the same size blade. I just finished my Ash workbench top and I hand S3S-ed all of it. I ended up using No.6 a lot and in combination with straightedge it was easier and quicker then even the wood jointers.

I've got something in the works, but I'll wait until it's a bit further along to comment. I really like the idea of wooden bodied planes, they're almost the same weight, but the base can be made to really glide. That #7 plane has just worn the hell out of me on panel work and I think it's really intended for parts and edges, not panels so I'm glad to see your comments about the #6 plane and a straight edge.


Brian, thank you for the detailed response I really appreciate your experience here. Feel free to respond via PM if I'm drifting too far...

I'm curious where you're leaning towards starting with Jnats. I'm just getting back into woodworking following about a ten year hiatus as I started a remodeling company, and am using handtools as an ever greater component of my work. I've just switched from sharpening with norton stones to choseras, which I'm currently loving, but am curious about jnats...

I have a dim understanding of your comments on A2 vs white/blue steel, I certainly see the impacts of the hardness when it comes to changing bevel angles or removing chips.

Again, thank you for your detailed thoughts.
A

Happy to help, I've had a Shinden Suita for about 4 months now and since having some time on it I really enjoy it. I spray some water on it, build a quick slurry with a diamond plate and I'm off to the races.

I have a Nakayama Asagi on the way, it's one step finer than this Shinden stone. I plan to use it for final prep on plane blades and paring chisels that really need a fine cut....not that the shinden is not super fine (it is), but I've simply fallen down the rabbit hole a bit and looking for something that will really put a gorgeous shine on finished parts and panels.

I like the chosera's for regrinding, where I'm already dedicated to the time it takes to sharpen something, at that point soaking stones is not a big deal. I have a tub of clean water that I soak the stones in..... but I find this process is too time consuming for touch up work.

Eventually I expect I will replace my middle grade stone with another Jnat.

It's not hardness so much but resistance to abrasion. The Japanese tools are typically harder than western tools but the steels are easier to work because they grind a hollow in the back of the blade, they forge weld the hard steel to soft iron and the steel is either white steel (pure carbon) or blue steel (Carbon, iron .05 chromium and 1.5 Tungsten).

A2 has 5% chromium and .3% nickel making a much more abrasion resistant material than either blue steel or especially white steel.

[Brian Holcombe]

Pretty minor update, but had the chance last night to start some detailing on the top. I've been letting the sliding dovetails work together a bit before seating them permanently in their intended location. These are starting to fit pretty well so I took them apart and fit ebony plugs on one end.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C1846784-1996-4936-9738-6E391BC3E0B9_zpss99iq7xo.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C1846784-1996-4936-9738-6E391BC3E0B9_zpss99iq7xo.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/A9DC5576-53FF-48DC-86A2-89BFEEE06325_zpsbhlpsiwa.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/A9DC5576-53FF-48DC-86A2-89BFEEE06325_zpsbhlpsiwa.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7B21FCAB-00BB-4691-A3F0-CB479497A997_zps2trqygog.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/7B21FCAB-00BB-4691-A3F0-CB479497A997_zps2trqygog.jpg.html)

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Your work is always inspiring. I love the "simple complexity" of your pieces. Just one question- HOW do you find time after having a baby? :-)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Malcolm! I do try to keep them somewhat subdued on the exterior with some complexities for those who investigate more thoroughly. My father will stop by once in a while and help out with some stuff around the house, like moving beds, lol. He's mentioned he finds it interesting how complicated a simple piece can be once you eliminate a few things like screws and for the most part glue.

I've had the drive recently to make things that I could take apart (not easily, but possible) if ever need be, so that I can work on it. Also using mostly glue-less joints gives a little room for the wood to move without much trouble. At a minimum I'm trying to set things up so that I can break them down into sub assemblies.

In order to keep woodworking I've had to make a few changes;

http://img4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140130060942/downtonabbey/images/b/b7/Images.jpg

[Mark Stutz]

Pretty minor update, but had the chance last night to start some detailing on the top. I've been letting the sliding dovetails work together a bit before seating them permanently in their intended location. These are starting to fit pretty well so I took them apart and fit ebony plugs on one end.

Another great pictorial tutorial. For some reason I didn't put together the fact that you are doing all this essentially without glue. Personally I've gone to hot hide glue for any furniture, just for the repairability of it. If I understand the above quote, you've simply let everything acclimate together over time. Do you make a series of additional fittings, removing a shaving here and there?

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Mark! When it comes to compression fit parts I've been fitting them most of the way until they're tight, give them a couple days for the fibers to really compress, then fit them a little further before cutting to final length.

For critical parts like the peices on the outside of the top I will let them stay long until the build is complete, then I will fit them.

[Randy Karst]

Brian,
I have been enamored by the HNT Gordon side rebate plane you used with the dovetail fence. A similar fence can be crafted for the LN side rebate plane (currently own) but the greater built-in registration area of the HNT (along with the wood & brass esthetic) is quite appealing; any thoughts, comments (anecdotes) on the HNT Gordon (I'm obviously looking to justify a move here) in use?

[Brian Holcombe]

It's a great plane, one of my favorites. It truly shines across the grain. It works well along the grain, but would be best used in a pair in that way so that it could always run with the grain…I don't do that, but I know I should. I clean up the along the grain cuts with a router plane to ensure the depth is retained.

The fence is very sturdy and easy to operate, it works in a brass sliding dovetail.

I prefer the ECE plane for making the male side of the dovetail, and given the choice to upgrade I would probably take something like a Philly planes dovetail plane over the ECE. The reason being is that the nicker keeps the shoulder cut sharp.

[Randy Karst]

Brian,
Thanks, I appreciate your feedback on the plane. I haven't explored the Philly Planes Dovetail plane yet but will - thanks for the tip.

[Brian Holcombe]

Cheers!

i've been thinking of them for the moving fillister...I like the HNT Gordon plane but it's a bit much.

[James Pallas]

Brian, Very nice work. The tray edges look great but a lot of work to produce. A couple of quick questions, do you have Jeeves wax the planes and the bench daily or just once a week? Also what brand of dust brush and pan do you use for the carpet? Just thought I could use the info to help me task my own staff.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah! Hourly waxing of course, and the brand of dust pan matters not, just ensure it is hand wrought sterling and the brush must be horse hair.

Thank you sir!

[Brian Holcombe]

Been a stretch since I worked on this. Some changes, my friend decided it was too fancy for painting on, and so now it is going to be a coffee table. Not a problem.

This is a teaser, I will post up the cut out after I finish the other side. I was debating if the stub tenons were necessary and safe to say I am glad I decided to add them, this joint is short but super sturdy. Frankly, I'm surprised at how much sturdiness it added to the assembly. I won't be gluing this joint, simply adding a peg to hold it together.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/620F7F2A-098B-4C5B-9C3B-2078F9799C9B_zpsse7dpnyb.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5FA0871B-E43D-4103-AA84-9E5ACBF13C65_zps0ulgytr4.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

And here is the fun stuff;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/10097A75-0DFC-4A09-9693-289964C56A46_zps0rrr90hv.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/787FB432-F243-4752-ABF1-F45ED4C82BB7_zpsxxszo0vl.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B36C052D-9B73-446A-B0FE-9C22F9EAFFAA_zpseqmqenhf.jpg

quintessential robe shot.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/19E0585B-BB4E-4749-9353-9EC16A82D37E_zpsei4yvqzq.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/813D5665-B654-479A-9576-9D05761EACFB_zpsmq70qbby.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/826CAD02-6133-498E-B259-FBB5B3ABC17C_zpsythu74jw.jpg

[Andrew Gold]

Brian,
Is that paisley and houndstooth in one sleave? Can we have you move into fashion tips?

but seriously, and again, thank you for sharing photos and projects like this-it's inspirational.

[Christopher Charles]

Hey Creekers,

What do you say we all pitch for one of these so Brian can take it up a notch?

http://litbimg6.rightinthebox.com/images/384x384/201412/rrqpji1418010582378.jpg

It's high class, even says so on the web site:

http://www.lightinthebox.com/bath-robe-high-class-tiger-stripes-garment-bathrobe-thicken-one-piece_p2423961.html

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah! Somehow I think my wife will really want to match....it should work out nicely.

Andrew, that paisley sleeve is separate (pj's) and the robe is glen plaid. Proof that sometimes I have to sneak away at midnight to get some work done.

[John Gornall]

The picture with housecoat and pj's gave me a warm feeling. When the world goes away and leaves you in peace that hour at the bench after midnight can be better than sleep. Thanks, Brian.

[Christopher Charles]

This conversation is bring the 'hand model' episode of Seinfeld to mind :)

Looking good Brian. Took a minute to figure out that you'd shim wedged the backer board in there to prevent blow out while paring. Yet another little tip picked up :)


Happy new year,
C

[Joe Beaulieu]

Hey Brian,
First I gotta say I love your shop wall. The simplicity and lack of clutter is fantastic. Something to aspire too. Very encouraging and a really fun to see. Thanks for posting the way you do - I really enjoy your threads.

I love the bow saw, and of course the kannas and nomi. I wanted to ask about the ECE Primus plane. Any chance you could take a pic or two of that plane so I can get a better idea of what it looks like? I have a real gap in my knowledge and understanding of joinery planes, and would appreciate any help you can lend. I get the router plane - I have the LV Router and that is put to good use. I don't own any dovetailing planes or any kind of edge work planes outside of the standard shoulder planes and a pair of the LN side rabbet planes - the 98 and 99sw. What do you recommend for joinery planes? If you were starting out, but had the standard stuff like shoulder planes and obviously the bench planes, what would you suggest next?

Great stuff Brian - and much appreciated.

Joe

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents, happy new year!

Hah, I was thinking of the 'hand model' Seinfeld as well.

Joe, tough to say as it all depends on what you want to build. I had the most trouble with sliding dovetails when I used electric routers to cut them, so it was high priority for me to get the planes need to cut them, which also lend themselves well to rabbets and dados.

I end up building a lot of casework and tables, so tapered sliding dovetails really make for nice, quick and strong assemblies that are easy to knock down. The more I build the more I like to be able to take things back apart without too much aggravation.

So for my work, a dado plane(s) and male and female dovetail planes are very useful. A moving filliester will be soon, and more grooving planes.

[Mark Kornell]

...
Hah, I was thinking of the 'hand model' Seinfeld as well. ...

I was thinking Zoolander, but each to.his own :-)

[Patrick Walsh]

Wow just great,

Been a long time since read a whole thread.

[Brian Holcombe]

Mark....all I have to say is....'blue steel'.

Thanks Patrick!

[Brian Holcombe]

Had a moment to finish this up, pared out the bottom to save some noise and put some time on the new tsuki's.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CD687BFC-058D-412E-AB2F-B3A43CF52858_zps5p2w99a4.jpg

cut and fit the bridle joint

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/939D4301-57E7-41D4-B14D-8D5E729CBC92_zps69qkbm6w.jpg

[Phil Stone]

Joe, I too am interested in how to get into hand-making sliding dovetails. I'm very enamored of this joint, but find it extremely time-consuming and stressful to make with routers/jigs. I'm a bit confused by all the specialty planes as, like you, I work with the basics (jointer, jack, smoother, block). Maybe we can get a thread going at some point soon on hand-made tapered sliding dovetails. Have you seen the pricey, highly-technological solution offered by Bridge City, by the way?

Brian, I can't tell you how much I enjoy your build threads. They embody all the things I enjoy about hand tool woodworking, and the craftsmanship is superb.

[Jeff Bartley]

Brian, I can't tell you how much I enjoy your build threads. They embody all the things I enjoy about hand tool woodworking, and the craftsmanship is superb.

+1!!
And I would also enjoy a discussion of specific planes to hand cut a tapered sliding dovetail. I've probably cut a couple hundred of these on the router table but I'm interested in 'sneaking up' on the fit with hand tools.

[Pat Barry]

cut and fit the bridle joint

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/939D4301-57E7-41D4-B14D-8D5E729CBC92_zps69qkbm6w.jpg
Now that's a joint! Really like this. Brian, how wide is the vertical member? Just thinking that it might warrant a couple of dowels to secure the joint to the sliding dovetails just to be sure since its a pedestal design?? Really well done though :)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents! Glad you are enjoying.

Pat, I agree, I think I'm going to use a tapering square peg to secure the joint. It doesnt need much at all to secure it. I was surprised at how much those stub tenons added to the secure feeling of the joint. I saw a similar joint done on a Ming table and it was an 'ah-ha' moment.

The vertical member is 1-7/8" thick by about 3-7/8" wide.

[Brian Holcombe]

Moving along here with the legs;

Cutting bridle joints for the feet.....finally figured out that I can drill a hole through the waste and use the bowsaw to knock out most of it
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/324896DF-09F0-4090-89EE-ACEE16C7925D_zps6l5amych.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/85FF4448-362D-4C71-B0AA-112DD893470B_zpsgnz5yabg.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/93EC9F57-1DB2-40F6-8A6B-191E3222F9B2_zpshlemhxou.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2CD374C4-1FCD-47E4-8205-31D5EDA5617F_zpsph2u0efi.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B5295EEE-ACEF-44A0-9664-170D92996032_zpstwxjxyjl.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/27788319-DE94-45E6-8453-3C23E72B881C_zpsdib1xtxb.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/85992AE2-EDC4-4349-913C-C6135CB7E74F_zpsbnckbopu.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/872E83D9-9DE1-4380-A851-C8E53A07B7E7_zpsiv7wahvk.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/6AA698E2-22F1-488C-A47D-B27E35FAD688_zpsrwnb7gic.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/446DC6F0-0BE5-485F-956D-DF0EF8951FCC_zpsanjnzjcu.jpg

[Barry Dima]

I wanted to ask about the ECE Primus plane. Any chance you could take a pic or two of that plane so I can get a better idea of what it looks like? I have a real gap in my knowledge and understanding of joinery planes, and would appreciate any help you can lend. I get the router plane - I have the LV Router and that is put to good use. I don't own any dovetailing planes or any kind of edge work planes


Joe, I too am interested in how to get into hand-making sliding dovetails. I'm very enamored of this joint, but find it extremely time-consuming and stressful to make with routers/jigs. I'm a bit confused by all the specialty planes as, like you, I work with the basics (jointer, jack, smoother, block). Maybe we can get a thread going at some point soon on hand-made tapered sliding dovetails.

Brian, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here. If you do, lemme know and I'll replace this post with a picture of me as an adult in a onesie drinking Franzia from a baby bottle.

Joe and Phil, being about 200 miles away from being able to make this joint myself, I can only proffer a video I've seen by Frank Strazza. He doesn't use shmexy joinery planes, but the dude's a pretty fine teacher:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8g0QA2Nwkc0

Maybe a starting point? Strazza seems to bring the joint maybe 100 miles closer for me.

Also, a recent issue of FWW (http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/power-of-the-pull-stroke.aspx) shows (but doesn't much expand on) Andrew Hunter using a azebiki and an angled guide block to cut the walls for a stopped dovetailed slot—so a small piece to a larger endeavor, I guess.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like Strazza's method, I use that for shorter sliding dovetails, panel sized stuff seems to benefit from planes.

[Phil Stone]

Very impressive. What is the saw he (Strazza) used? Would a dozuki be a good alternative for this?

[Jeff Bartley]

Brian, if I haven't said it already: I really enjoy your build threads!

[Tony Wilkins]

Looks great Brian.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents!

I presume a dozuki would do well on the joint.

[Brian Holcombe]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2BB69257-E110-4251-A80F-57A1D3200A75_zpsfynkggkd.jpg

After finishing the last foot, it's complete.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/E2A41A55-A942-4E09-9682-3F004D5C5EF4_zpsaweyba1e.jpg


I love cherry, the top planed to a beautiful finish right off the #4 plane


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/791D3766-F487-4E3A-8E13-DCF8D9F66C3F_zpsmqtubxed.jpg


Finished detailing the sliding dovetail channels with ebony inserts and trimming the ends to length, plenty of time spent with the chamfer plane as well detailing corners.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4181970B-2036-4032-8F48-CDF52282957C_zpsramkszeg.jpg


End grain carved


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/2260D29C-650C-4BBA-B2A3-8DA39AE2D984_zpslsyteehv.jpg


This should give a good perspective of how the battens are;


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/4CFA0099-D892-4973-B2B0-3F155A2D4B9B_zpsajh7ugcc.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/D9C9632B-9912-400B-A909-5A7ABAEF4B6F_zpsikvdaemv.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/0622C07B-3907-4055-83FC-7EA737B821E0_zpsp3nsd28f.jpg


My final debate is whether or not I peg the top bridle joints, or just leave the top free floating. I may try it out for a few days and see if it moves at all in regular use. I like the joinery without pegs, but maybe it's a foolish plan.

[Christopher Charles]

Fabulous, as usual. I really like the carving on the end grain. Are the feet ever so slightly convex to help avoid the wobbles?

Best,
C

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Christopher! Good eye on the feet, I made a concavity from about 1" in from the ends to minimise the chance of wobbles.

[ken hatch]

Brian,

As always beautiful work. I've a dining table and chairs in my future and a trestle table is one of the options.

I think it was Picasso that said: "Everyone borrows, artists steal". I expect I may borrow some of your design.

ken

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Ken! Borrow away, I look forward to seeing what you build.