Brushing on “Wipe On” poly?

[Bruce Page]

I decided to try a wipe-on poly on my current project and I’m not very happy with the lack of control that a rag gives me. Has anyone ever brushed on a wipe-on? I’m concerned that the wipe-on formula might go on too thick with a brush, and have a problem with drying.

Any thoughts?



I joined a health club last year, spent about $400. Haven’t lost a pound. Apparently you have to go there. – Unattributed

[Jim Becker]

Technique is the key to using the wipe-on product according to the finishing gurus on another forum that I frequent. Since you're doing a lot of very thin coats, wipe across the piece and do not revisit an area, even if you slightly miss a spot...you'll get it on the next coat and it will not be visible. Recoat as soon as you can "touch" the piece without leaving any mark. If you let it dry beyond that point, you need to let it cure fully over night and scuff with an abrasive pad before recoating as poly does not "burn in" like shellac and lacquer do.

I find that wiping on this finish is much, much easier to control than brushing...in the very rare moment that I actually use polyurethane.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Wiping varnish is usually much thinner in consistency than brushing varnish. Runs and sags are what I would be concerned with if trying to brush the stuff.

Why not just get a can of varnish formulated for brushing?

Dave

[Ken Salisbury]

Originally posted by Bruce Page
I decided to try a wipe-on poly on my current project and I’m not very happy with the lack of control that a rag gives me. Has anyone ever brushed on a wipe-on? I’m concerned that the wipe-on formula might go on too thick with a brush, and have a problem with drying.

Any thoughts?

Bruce,

Brushing wipe on poly is difficult due to the thinness of it --- kinda like brushing on water. Hard to control runs.

I am not sure what you mean by "lack of control". I use a folded, quality, white, paper towel (re: Bounty) when applying wipe on poly and find it very effective in helping to absorb any excess and gives me the necessary control to apply a smooth finish.

[Bruce Page]

Originally posted by Ken Salisbury


Bruce,

Brushing wipe on poly is difficult due to the thinness of it --- kinda like brushing on water. Hard to control runs.

I am not sure what you mean by "lack of control". I use a folded, quality, white, paper towel (re: Bounty) when applying wipe on poly and find it very effective in helping to absorb any excess and gives me the necessary control to apply a smooth finish.

Thanks Ken, I will give the Bounty a go. I've been using a small balled-up piece of old t-shirt but I'm having trouble getting it into the corners & crevices . A folded paper towel sounds like just the ticket.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Originally posted by Bruce Page
Thanks Ken, I will give the Bounty a go. I've been using a small balled-up piece of old t-shirt but I'm having trouble getting it into the corners & crevices . A folded paper towel sounds like just the ticket.

As one of about a thousand other alternatives, I generally use the Scotts "rags in a box" paper towels from HD. The box is blue and yellow and usually on an end-cap in the store. These are pretty thick and lintless. (They stand up to finishing turnings on the lathe, too, with the "push" technique I use to heat the oil with friction)

[markus shaffer]

you might try something like these staining pads. i use them for wiping on tung oil finish pretty much exclusively. i don't know if they will work for you, but i have had success with them. i get them at the home depot in the paint area.

-markus

[Bruce Page]

I tried the Bounty technique this evening after rubbing everything out with 0000 steel wool, and it went much better. I have nine coats of the “wipe-on” poly on it now and hopefully this will be the last. This was my first foray using a wipe-on polyurethane, and it will be my last. I have never been a big fan of poly but this was for some baby furniture and I thought it would be the safest way to go.

I was going to buy a copy of "The Power of Positive Thinking", and then I thought: What the hell good would that do? -- Ronnie Shakes

[Jim Becker]

Originally posted by Bruce Page
This was my first foray using a wipe-on polyurethane, and it will be my last. I have never been a big fan of poly but this was for some baby furniture and I thought it would be the safest way to go.

Don't forget that all finishes available for sale today are "safe" when fully cured. So use what you are comfortable with on your projects without fear.

[Bruce Page]

Originally posted by Jim Becker
Don't forget that all finishes available for sale today are "safe" when fully cured. So use what you are comfortable with on your projects without fear.

Thanks Jim, I didn't know that.

[Bartee Lamar]

Markus,

Sorry did not read the part about getting the staining pads at HD....

doh...

[Jason Roehl]

According to Mr. Dresdner, resident finish expert at "that other popular forum," the abrasion between coats is not necessary, even if the coats are up to two weeks apart! But I would knock off any foreign material that gets into the finish before I put on another coat.

Just another perspective...

[Lynn Sonier]

I use the synthetic steel wool, tripple aught. It is in 2 x 4 inch squares and it stays together better than regular steel wool. Got mine at Tru-Value.