Leg Levelars

[Michael Cole]

I don't know if this is the correct place to post this, so excuse me if it is not. After I get my current project done of finishing the trim work and bench in the new wood shop I am going to build my assembly/outfeed table. I have purchased a Rockler t track table top which will be the main part. Would like to have a part with miter slots for a crosscut sled to slide into. I have purchased workbench casters which raise the table to move and then lower to the floor when in place. I am not completely sure of my ability to get the finished table the exact height to match the table saw so was thinking I need something adjustable on the bottom of the legs to make sure I get to the exact height. What would you suggest? It doesn't have to have a lot of adjustment and once set would stay as the floor is pretty good but would have to be strong enough to hold up the table.

[John TenEyck]

The two types on the right on attached webpage work well for me in most applications. http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=26941_22366

John
(http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=26941_22366)

[glenn bradley]

I just use t-nuts and elevator bolts (http://www.lowes.com/pd_137616-37672-881012_1z0wwosZ1z0yk5s__?productId=3722632&pl=1). For things like my recent workbench (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?233764-The-Next-quot-Next-quot-Workbench)that might get scooted a bit I used screw-on t-nuts:

318607 . 318606

[Nicholas Carey]

Some people make their own leveling pads from hockey pucks, but since hockey pucks aren't all that heap, you're not going to save much over buying suitable levellers less from a supplier like Essentra (http://us.essentracomponents.com/shop/en-US/essentracomponentsus/feet--casters---glides-23056--1/adjustable-leveling-feet-50052--1/socket-mount-leveling-feet-515551--1).

http://conesusmachinetool.com/1/post/2012/4/hockey-puck-leveling-feet.html
http://dans-woodshop.blogspot.com/2012/02/bench-leveler-feet-mark-ii.html

http://conesusmachinetool.com/uploads/3/0/7/1/3071407/112521_orig.jpg

[Kent A Bathurst]

Go back to Rockler. THey have a number of options. Here is one:

http://www.rockler.com/combination-leg-equalizer

There are three of those on my 40" x 72" TS outfeed table. I added a pair of nuts to each post so I could lock them in place.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Woodcraft also has a good selection:

http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=levelers

[Dan Henry]

On my shop cabinets I use 5/16 lag bolts head down on the floor, 1/2 open wench on the head makes leveling very easy and quick, most on my cabenit base have a 2X 4 in the bottom so it makes a good structurer to screw the lag bolt into, I use a 2 inch bolt.
Dan

[ian maybury]

Much like Dan i use carrage bolts on basic stuff that doesn't have to be pretty or need any vibration isolation - dome head down again. The square below (above in this case) the head permits easy adjustment. Proper soft padded feet are cheap these days if some vibration isolation is needed...

[John Sanford]

I don't know if this is the correct place to post this, so excuse me if it is not. After I get my current project done of finishing the trim work and bench in the new wood shop I am going to build my assembly/outfeed table. I have purchased a Rockler t track table top which will be the main part. Would like to have a part with miter slots for a crosscut sled to slide into. I have purchased workbench casters which raise the table to move and then lower to the floor when in place. I am not completely sure of my ability to get the finished table the exact height to match the table saw so was thinking I need something adjustable on the bottom of the legs to make sure I get to the exact height. What would you suggest? It doesn't have to have a lot of adjustment and once set would stay as the floor is pretty good but would have to be strong enough to hold up the table.

If you want to make your own that are very easy to adjust, use T-nut inserts, an appropriately sized bolt, two nuts, and a PVC pipe cap. Drill the cap, put the bolt through the cap from the INSIDE, run one nut to the bolt to lock it, put the second nut onto the bolt, screw the leveler into the T-nut that's in the bottom of the leg, adjust, and then tighten the second nut up to lock it. If you want, you could replace the second nut with a wing nut. The advantage this system has is the PVC pipe cap spreads the load over a wider area, and it's big and easier to make precise adjustments than fiddling with a wrench. Not quite as good as the hockey puck, but much, much simpler.

[Gregory King]

Nothing beats a threaded insert in a wood leg. Use a 1/4" or 5/16 " stem caster like above . Just have to get them in straight. Never come out

[roger wiegand]

I use the Heavy Duty Vibration-Damping Leveling Mounts from McMaster Carr. Work great, don't slide around on the floor, don't dent the floor, cost about $6 each, easier than searching for the hardware for a homemade one. Come with 3/8 or half inch bolts, adjust easily with an open end wrench.