A better wedge

[Mike Holbrook]

I was attempting to split a 8x25" white oak log with a friend last week. The L&N froe was not enough. Most wedges lack the bevel needed to penetrate wood like this. I have sen wedges used by guys like Curtis Buchanan that are longer and wider than the average wedge available today. The bevel on the type wedge I am talking about is more gradual allowing it to penetrate hard wood easier. I have searched auctions and places that sell wedges but so far I have not come up with something comparable at a reasonable price or even at an unreasonable price. I was wondering if any of my fellow SMC posters might have any idea where to buy such a wedge?

[Jim Koepke]

I know you can buy wedges like that at some logging supply stores. There are even plastic ones for use with a chain saw when it gets stuck in a tree.

I bought one like you mention at a flea market recently. I used to think two wedges are enough. Then one of them became misplaced. So now I am buying them cheap as found and working to grind off the mushrooms.

Note: Looks like the shape wedge mentioned above is called a felling or falling wedge. It also appears that there are no longer many steel ones made in the U.S. Some loggers in Europe like the steel. Looks like you may have to find used or try one made of plastic.

jtk

[Mike Null]

Do you have any blacksmiths in your area?

[Paul Saffold]

As Jim said, it's a felling wedge. I found one on ebay. New ones are all plastic. Not everyone uses felling wedges though. You should be able to split the log with splitting wedges. You will need several to get the split started and then some gluts to finish the job. Watch Curtis Buchanan's videos.

Paul

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for the comments. I have split a good deal of wood for firewood. I have also used wedges a good deal for felling trees. I have used commercial wedges of several types including metal and plastic. I also have two very pricey Gransfors wedges with twisted bodies. This subject, however, is one of those that the more I have delved into it the less sure I have been concerning how much I actually know about splitting. In specific, trying to split precise 3/4- 1" pieces from a log retaining the grain of the wood for the entire length of each piece, is much different than just breaking a log into pieces to burn it or allow it to dry faster.

I took several green wood courses. We only actually split pieces to work with in one class. The pieces I split were for short 8-10" spindles, easily done with a froe and froe club. What I am discovering is splitting 24=40+" small pieces from a log is a whole different story. I have watched all Curtis' videos multiple times and I still do not feel like I am getting the whole story. Often short videos leave out large parts of the time effort and work that goes into accomplishing a task, in order to present the information in an easily digestible form. For instance Curtis starts with pieces that obviously are ideally suited for the splits being made from them without necessarily showing all the steps and decision making that went into getting the various pieces.

I took down what looked like a good white oak last week. I sawed logs 24-40" long from that tree, I was disconcerted to find out that a good deal of the wood was very poorly suited for use. Rot in the center of the tree not visible even in individual logs for instance. I am developing a greater appreciation for choosing trees, logs... I was frustrated at the time & effort it took just to split one small log once. Admittedly I am learning here and discovering that splitting green wood for chair pieces does not bare much resemblance to splitting fire wood or using wedges to fell trees.

I plan to study Galbert's new book & Langsner's on the subject and maybe contact Drew and or Pete on the subject as well. I thought I would inquire here as well and post my findings. I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

[David Ragan]

Thanks for the comments. I have split a good deal of wood for firewood. I have also used wedges a good deal for felling trees. I have used commercial wedges of several types including metal and plastic. I also have two very pricey Gransfors wedges with twisted bodies. This subject, however, is one of those that the more I have delved into it the less sure I have been concerning how much I actually know about splitting. In specific, trying to split precise 3/4- 1" pieces from a log retaining the grain of the wood for the entire length of each piece, is much different than just breaking a log into pieces to burn it or allow it to dry faster.

I took several green wood courses. We only actually split pieces to work with in one class. The pieces I split were for short 8-10" spindles, easily done with a froe and froe club. What I am discovering is splitting 24=40+" small pieces from a log is a whole different story. I have watched all Curtis' videos multiple times and I still do not feel like I am getting the whole story. Often short videos leave out large parts of the time effort and work that goes into accomplishing a task, in order to present the information in an easily digestible form. For instance Curtis starts with pieces that obviously are ideally suited for the splits being made from them without necessarily showing all the steps and decision making that went into getting the various pieces.

I took down what looked like a good white oak last week. I sawed logs 24-40" long from that tree, I was disconcerted to find out that a good deal of the wood was very poorly suited for use. Rot in the center of the tree not visible even in individual logs for instance. I am developing a greater appreciation for choosing trees, logs... I was frustrated at the time & effort it took just to split one small log once. Admittedly I am learning here and discovering that splitting green wood for chair pieces does not bare much resemblance to splitting fire wood or using wedges to fell trees.

I plan to study Galbert's new book & Langsner's on the subject and maybe contact Drew and or Pete on the subject as well. I thought I would inquire here as well and post my findings. I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

I'm the friend mentioned. We really went to town on that small log.

I think the process was soooo difficult just because the hardwood was partially cured, or whatever by some kind of disease.

Isn't it enough to pick out the bole of a straight tree, without any knotholes or bark irregularities, and have clean ends? :confused:

Well-hey we had a great time, anyway:)

[Jim Koepke]

I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Isn't it enough to pick out the bole of a straight tree, without any knotholes or bark irregularities, and have clean ends?

One of the local sawyers told me you also need to listen to the wood. Tap on the log and listen to the sound returned.

I have been trying, but still don't have it down.

jtk

[David Nelson1]

Mine as well. I bought Curtis's DVD's and If I remember right and I'll check a bit later he had more wedges than a few in the white oak log he was splitting as well as some very wide wood ones. Those where used after the log has started to pop.

[David Ragan]

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

Indeed, Jim, the topic is splitting wood for the crafting of chairs.

(White Oak is the wood is the wood that defeated us last weekend. Also, ash, hickory, and beech are useful for green/bending, etc?)

[lowell holmes]

318615


You might find wood in this picture to make one.:)

[paul cottingham]

If the topic is splitting wood for making chairs, it also holds my interest.

jtk

And mine, as well!

[Tom M King]

Monster Maul.

[Tony Shea]

Hey Mike, don't beat yourself up too bad especially if this is your first log. You're right that guys like Curtis, Peter, etc make this look easy. They have been doing it a very long time. The secret to getting good splits is all in finding the right tree!! These guys are buying logs from a place that supplies veneer logs Which means they are damn near perfect. I personally don't have a log supplier like those guys and resort to the Maine woods. The best trees I have here for the purpose are ash trees which split like a dream if I find a good one. There is always a chance the tree has started rotting in the center, has a small amount of twist that wasn't noticed, has hidden knots, or some other defect that renders the tree unusable for the purpose. The key is to be very picky and once you find something that is questionable then use it as firewood, otherwise you'll fight it throughout the entire process. You should also stay away from the first couple of feet toward the butt of the log. The grain gets really tough down there and isn't worth the trouble. Make yourself some gluts of all different sizes and shapes and let them dry out thoroughly, wet gluts are useless and just bounce out as you pound them in. I learned that through experience, something that is not mentioned in any text or video I have come across. I only use 3 metal wedges and they are all random sizes, just ones I have come across along the way. The rest of the splitting is done with gluts, dry gluts of maple mostly. I have split logs that are 8'+ with just those three wedges and some gluts. The toughest wood I have come across in splitting is some of the red oaks around here, they can have really tangled up grain in which case I keep a sharp axe to sever fibers as I go along.

The point of this post is to find the absolute best tree you can possibly find. Straight bark all the way up and preferably forest trees, trees that have to compete with other trees for sunlight. These trees will be the straightest and have the longest section without knots or branches. But as Curtis says in one of his videos, splitting up a tree is like Christmas. You never know what's inside until you open it up, could be a lump of coal or a diamond. Keep on trying Mike, it will get easier and a whole lot more fun. Splitting is really my favorite part of the process!

[Mike Holbrook]

Kinda what I thought Tony. I picked a tree that was in a convenient location that I thought looked at least good. As Dave mentions above something happened to a section of the tree. I was a little worried when I saw black water pouring out of a log when I was sawing it into pieces. I will definitely spend more time looking on the next one. We have lots of Dogwood around here which is what I hear makes the best gluts. I got to try out the froe club I made and although it held up real well I don't think it is quite heavy enough so I plan to make a larger one.

I went back over Langsner's and Galbert's books on splitting and both mention and use a similar wedge to the one Curtis uses. It is longer and 2-3x times wider than the average 3-5 lb wedges that are so frequently found. Langsner has some good pictures showing how to use it to start a split. The sides are close to flat ground. It looks in Langsner's pictures like the wide wedge is not driven in too far it is more to get the split started. He then chases the split with two wedges along the side of the log, leapfrogging around a foot each time. The gluts seem to be used to drive the split all the way through the entire log. Connecting fibers between the two pieces are released using a small sharp axe. I think the longer wider wedge with the gradual taper makes it easier to control the initial split. Langsner makes the point that driving that wedge is a game of smaller strikes and finesse as opposed to brute force.

[Tony Shea]

I really think you're over analyzing the usefulness of that specific shaped wedge. I go along with an axe sometimes for my in initial split just to give me a place to start. It may be easier to find an old axe head than it is to find that rare wedge you seem to be after. I personally have no such wedge and have very good luck in splitting trees.

[Paul Saffold]

Good explanation, Tony. Peter's book also mentions using an axe for starting the split.

[Bill White]

If you can get your hands on some dogwood, make the gluts from it. Once dried and waxed, you'll be hard pressed to wear 'em out.
Mine is over 20 years old, and I wish I had more of 'em.
Bill

[paul cottingham]

Yep, make a couple of gluts. Open the wood with a steel wedge, then another, and place the glut in the opening and pound away.

i split a lot of firewood as a kid, its not too difficult. A glut would make life much easier.

[Mike Holbrook]

Actually my interest is in controlling the split(s). I have split a good deal of wood too, in the last decade I have done most of my splitting with one of two Gransfors splitting axes. I have been very surprised at how well those two splitting axes work compared to all the more conventional tools I have used. One swing from one of those axes typically splits the hickory and oak logs with no issue. The only reason I see for those tools to work better is the smooth, gradual taper. When I saw that Langsner, Buchanan and Galbert all use a wedge shaped like those axes I thought there might be a connection. From the pictures I have seen the taper on the hand made gluts resembles the taper I refer to as well.

Since I am about to make gluts and buy additional wedges...In Langsner's book in the chapter on splitting he makes a statement about splitting firewood as being a matter of brute force vs the more subtle tapping and listening necessary to make accurate splits. Maintaining accuracy while picking up speed at getting the job done is where I am at.

[John W Johnson]

I really think you're over analyzing the usefulness of that specific shaped wedge. I go along with an axe sometimes for my in initial split just to give me a place to start. It may be easier to find an old axe head than it is to find that rare wedge you seem to be after. I personally have no such wedge and have very good luck in splitting trees.

i took the Langsner ladder back class a few weeks ago. We used axes to start splits by driving them with long handled mallets. The longest splits we made were about 40-42". I was surprised at how little waste we had. But we had a real good log with just a couple of small knots. Plus, Drew has been around the block a time or two and had a good idea about where to start the splits. Drew had one or two of the flat wedges and we used them more or less interchangeably with the axes.

[Jim Koepke]

Finally remembered to bring the camera out to the shop:

318767

This is how it was found. There hasn't been time to clean it up. That's a winter project.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

Nice Jim, exactly what I was thinking about!

I believe we used an axe for a few splits at the Country Workshops class I took too. The axe we used to split with was different than the axes that Drew sells though. I don't think you will find Drew using his Svante, Karlsson of Gransfors carving/hewing/slicing axes to hammer like a wedge. Some axes are designed to be light, with small, more fragile, lighter heads that could easily break if struck with a hard steel or even a hard wood. Gransfors specifically warns against striking most good axe heads, even in the case of their small and medium splitting axes. I think Svante and Karlsson do too. They suggest using a maul/axe specifically designed to strike wedges for that job. Gransfors sells wedges for splitting too, although they are pricey. There are axes that are designed to serve as wedges and or to strike wedges. I believe the steels used in these two types of axes are different just like the designs.

[David Ragan]

I tried to split a piece of the log Mike gave me last weekend. I could have sworn it was good on each end, but after a whole bunch of pounding, and even drilling out a slot (in desperation) about 1/2" deep to start the dang wedge, and a brand new 10lb full size sledgehammer, on concrete, it still would not split. Wore me out. I guess the wood had a defect in the middle, cause upon close inspection, there was a small blackish hole, and 1/4" in one end.

This has got to get better, or I aint going to get into all this.

I did take the big blank that I rounded up last weekend, and cut the pith out, and then went about using my new LN froe and brake. Started out to make pieces that are QS in orientation. I need a better mallet. Plus there are, of course, pin knots in that wood. Screws everything up.

I plan to make a froe mallet maybe tomorrow. Probably from that diseased green log above.

I still have a couple of white oak sections that appear to be disease free on the ends. Maybe I'll have a go at that tomorrow AM.

[David Ragan]

I am pleased to report that, after about $200 invested in this, that I have indeed managed to split a small 10" diameter, 18" long white oak log.

First, I hacked out an area with my (new) hatchet, then placed the wedge in it. After a few swings, I was able to convey, not a full-on strike of old like a RR spike, but a pretty good wallop. Perhaps a dozen strikes were required which set the wedge, split the log, a second wedge was employed, the hatchet, then the entire affair in a bag in the shop to keep it green. I'll make my froe mallet next, then debark the halves, modify my shavehorse, and get up with Mike to see about a better drawknife.

[Reinis Kanders]

I made froe mallet from a split triangular oak piece about 24 inches long. Used hatchet to hack out a roundish handle on one end, flattened one aspect of the triangle to use as hitting surface. Basically looks like a big club. Took a very little time for a handy thing to keep in the shed.

[Mike Holbrook]

David, the froe mallet may be a good piece of wood to practice on with drawknives. I am planing to take down a dogwood for gluts too, hope to work on that tomorrow, another possibility for drawknife practice.

[Jim Davis]

I split a lot of 6-foot long Osage to make bows.

Two things of highest priority about straight splits:

1. As said above, cut the right tree. If the grain twists so will the split.

2. You don't want to "control" the split. The split must follow the grain, so back to point 1. above.

On the subject of axes, striking an axe head is certain to spread the eye and eventually ruin the axe.

There are slim starting wedges that show up less than once in a blue moon at flea markets and such. They are about 2 inches wide, 3-1/2 inches long and a quarter inch thick at the back edge. They are made for opening a crack in which to start a splitting wedge. They have a forged eye on one side in which to tie a lanyard, the other end of which is tied to something (belt, wrist???) to avoid losing the wedge.

Jim

[David Ragan]

David, the froe mallet may be a good piece of wood to practice on with drawknives. I am planing to take down a dogwood for gluts too, hope to work on that tomorrow, another possibility for drawknife practice.

That is great, Mike. We going to use the Dogwood root, right? If we can get one big enough. If now, I can ask my people about it. Come to think about it-I am not excited about digging up a Dogwood root, ha ha.





Two things of highest priority about straight splits:

2. You don't want to "control" the split. The split must follow the grain, so back to point 1. above.

On the subject of axes, striking an axe head is certain to spread the eye and eventually ruin the axe.

There are slim starting wedges that show up less than once in a blue moon at flea markets and such. They are about 2 inches wide, 3-1/2 inches long and a quarter inch thick at the back edge. They are made for opening a crack in which to start a splitting wedge. They have a forged eye on one side in which to tie a lanyard, the other end of which is tied to something (belt, wrist???) to avoid losing the wedge.

Jim

That is what I thought, Jim......if you're trying to get straight grain, you just let the wood split along anyline it wants. that is what I witnessed after some crude drawknife work on the oak this weekend. I just put the wedge in the middle of the log and pounded the crap out of it till it was fully in. Can you go wrong with that method?

Then, To start the wedge, I had just chopped out a small area with the hatchet and set the wedge.

Here's another question-

Under what circumstances do you start the split from the end of the log, when the log is short enough?

And, what is a good way to steady the log on the ground, to keep it from rolling when splitting. A log on each side? A wooden stake to each side? How about a Rube Goldberg special sled with adjustable width sides to secure the log? Of course, you still need something solid underneath.

Not trying to hijack:)

[Tony Shea]

Since I am about to make gluts and buy additional wedges...In Langsner's book in the chapter on splitting he makes a statement about splitting firewood as being a matter of brute force vs the more subtle tapping and listening necessary to make accurate splits. Maintaining accuracy while picking up speed at getting the job done is where I am at.

While I do agree with Langsner's statement I don't think it applies when initially opening up a log in halves, or even quarters for that matter. To get a log into halves it basically requires all the brute force you can muster up, and I will guarantee that you will NOT be controlling that initial split! As long as your log is not twisted your initial split should be relatively straight and end up roughly halving the log. Even splitting the halves into quarters is basically all brute force (depending on the size of the log) and again, you do not have that much control of the split.

Once you have pieces small enough, roughly quarters, then you begin to gain control of the split especially when using a froe.


2. You don't want to "control" the split. The split must follow the grain, so back to point 1. above.

I agree and disagree with this comment. The initial splits are impossible to control but once you use your froe on the quartered and smaller pieces one can make that split go just about anywhere they want. There is a ton of control to be had in using a froe and a brake. I can typically get my pieces dimensioned extremely close to finished thickness using this technique.

Having said all this, the absolute most important part of all of this is finding the right log!!

And as for striking axes, they are certainly not meant to be struck with a metal mallet. But I have no problem striking my beater axes with my maple froe club to get splits started, if nothing else but to score my initial starting line. I have pounded my axes, including my Gransfors, all the way through some shorter stock because I didn't have my wedges. I never worried about hitting it hard enough to open the eye up, especially using my wood mallet. I would never use a metal mallet for any of axes or froes.

[Mike Holbrook]

I harvested a Dogwood today. The big end is 5+ inches in diameter. I am wondering if I can make a heavy mallet with it. The small end is down around 2 1/2", so I think there is good wood for gluts. I don't know where one would find a dogwood with large enough roots to make a froe club from. If I found one I thought might be big enough and just happened to have an excavator handy I'm still not sure how I could get that root out of the ground in one piece. I thought I was doing good to find a dogwood with a 5+ inch trunk.

David, Drew has a 12+ picture series in his book showing how to split a log. It looks like he is splitting a 6-8' red or white oak log that is above his knees, 20+ inches in diameter. 1) He extends a pencil line out from a pre-existing crack in one end of the log. The crack in the log in his book is conveniently located in the center of the log, so his pencil line halves the log. 2) Drew's second step is to take a regular chisel, not the splitting chisel, a regular one that has a steeper duller end. He taps his chisel all along the pencil line scoring an indentation, which he says "will influence the way the split develops". 3) "Using a flat, narrow-angle starting wedge to start the split. The handle of the 8-pound sledge hammer has been cut down to 24". He drives the wedge into the scored area in the end of the log, about half way between the center of the log & the top. He only drives the starting wedge a few inches into the log, probably because he got a good split with just that much of the wedge. 4) In this step he starts driving a regular wedge into the developing crack on the bark side of the log, just past his starting wedge. He says that the starting wedge could have been driven in further. It looks like he had 6 inches of his starting wedge still available above the surface. 5) Next he leapfrogs wedges into the developing crack. He always leaves at least 1" of his wedge above the bark 6) He uses gluts to widen the crack. He cautions against putting hands/fingers in the crack. He continues with the same methods to quarter the halves.

Drew saws pieces from the above splitting procedures for riving the various pieces needed to make chairs. He uses wood mallets & froe clubs with a froe for the smaller pieces and sometimes an axe for the larger pieces the finals are cut from.

[David Ragan]

I harvested a Dogwood today. The big end is 5+ inches in diameter. I am wondering if I can make a heavy mallet with it. The small end is down around 2 1/2", so I think there is good wood for gluts. I don't know where one would find a dogwood with large enough roots to make a froe club from. If I found one I thought might be big enough and just happened to have an excavator handy I'm still not sure how I could get that root out of the ground in one piece. I thought I was doing good to find a dogwood with a 5+ inch trunk.

David, Drew has a 12+ picture series in his book showing how to split a log. It looks like he is splitting a 6-8' red or white oak log that is above his knees, 20+ inches in diameter. 1) He extends a pencil line out from a pre-existing crack in one end of the log. The crack in the log in his book is conveniently located in the center of the log, so his pencil line halves the log. 2) Drew's second step is to take a regular chisel, not the splitting chisel, a regular one that has a steeper duller end. He taps his chisel all along the pencil line scoring an indentation, which he says "will influence the way the split develops". 3) "Using a flat, narrow-angle starting wedge to start the split. The handle of the 8-pound sledge hammer has been cut down to 24". He drives the wedge into the scored area in the end of the log, about half way between the center of the log & the top. He only drives the starting wedge a few inches into the log, probably because he got a good split with just that much of the wedge. 4) In this step he starts driving a regular wedge into the developing crack on the bark side of the log, just past his starting wedge. He says that the starting wedge could have been driven in further. It looks like he had 6 inches of his starting wedge still available above the surface. 5) Next he leapfrogs wedges into the developing crack. He always leaves at least 1" of his wedge above the bark 6) He uses gluts to widen the crack. He cautions against putting hands/fingers in the crack. He continues with the same methods to quarter the halves.

Drew saws pieces from the above splitting procedures for riving the various pieces needed to make chairs. He uses wood mallets & froe clubs with a froe for the smaller pieces and sometimes an axe for the larger pieces the finals are cut from.

What a fine piece of research that is! That is exactly how I would treat that video. The accummulation of all the little things is what makes a real professional instead of a hack job, which is probably all I'll ever by in this realm.

Great job, Mike!

I look forward to getting together with you in a couple of weeks:)

Anybody try the Oschenkopf wedge? A 45* twist, aluminum?

[John W Johnson]

Mike, one thing Drew mentioned about the glut was that we would ruin it if we snagged its point on any strands in the split. He also said they should only be struck with his long handled wooden mauls. He said he'd had the one we were using for over twenty years. We used his to further open the splits in the log. As soon as they opened up enough we finished removing the remaining fibers with axes.

Also, the person above who mentioned you'd ruin an axe by using it as a wedge is absolutely correct, if you drove it with a metal hammer. We used the wooden headed mauls and mallets to drive the axe head. The only time we used metal on metal was driving the steel wedges with his short handled sledge.

[Mike Holbrook]

David, even we blind squirrels :p find a nut on occasion. Hope we get a little more done next time. I'm working on a few things.

John, I took a 5 day class, making a Rustic Windsor/Welsh Stick chair (short version). The only splitting we did was small pieces for short chair spindles, which we used small quartered logs for. Drew mentions that glut, and a club too, in his book. Apparently he found a big dogwood somewhere and got it out of the ground with the roots. He apparently made that glut from a part of that Dogwoods roots.

[David Ragan]

Mike, one thing Drew mentioned about the glut was that we would ruin it if we snagged its point on any strands in the split. He also said they should only be struck with his long handled wooden mauls. He said he'd had the one we were using for over twenty years. We used his to further open the splits in the log. As soon as they opened up enough we finished removing the remaining fibers with axes.

Also, the person above who mentioned you'd ruin an axe by using it as a wedge is absolutely correct, if you drove it with a metal hammer. We used the wooden headed mauls and mallets to drive the axe head. The only time we used metal on metal was driving the steel wedges with his short handled sledge.

I was cruising the YouTube and saw a guy using a huge wooden maul musta been a foot in diameter. It just looked easier than the full size sledge hammer that I was using last wkd.

How would one go about making something like that, or what is the best way to do that? Stick a stiff branch in a small stump?

[John W Johnson]

I was cruising the YouTube and saw a guy using a huge wooden maul musta been a foot in diameter. It just looked easier than the full size sledge hammer that I was using last wkd.

How would one go about making something like that, or what is the best way to do that? Stick a stiff branch in a small stump?

David, I don't know, but I'm dealing with that question right now. I started another thread about this huge dogwood my brother found in a roadside rubbish pile. We have two four foot plus straight, fairly clear logs. One tapers from about a foot to 9" while the other is roughly eight inches end to end. We also have a two foot log with a couple of softball sized blisters on the sides, and the limb section that has three live limbs and one dead one.

We initially had the idea of making long handled mauls, froe clubs, and gluts, but I think we should start with a couple of big momma mallets like you saw in the video. I just don't want to screw it up. We've literally been looking for good trees to make these tools for months, and just had this amazing tree fall in our laps. It is almost too big for what we need.

[Mike Holbrook]

David, I believe it depends on the wood/logs you have. Although it is a good deal of work an entire large mallet can be made from a single log/piece, if it is long enough and wide enough. I think many people end up making the mallet head separately and then add a handle, hickory or ash make good handles.

Drew Langsner addresses: Glut, froe and maul construction in his book. He suggests removing the greater part of the wood for the handle in one of two ways 1) start out with an axe and go to a drawknife 2) saw kerfs around the handle area and split off the waste wood. He suggests making the transition area between the head and the handle a smooth transition instead of an abrupt angle which concentrates forces on the transition area. After the club has had time to dry he suggests cutting off the checkering on both ends, which is why he starts with a longer blank than he plans to end up with.

Drew lists the steps for making a froe club "a) select a sapling 3-4" in diameter, about 30" long. Knots at one end help prevent splitting during use b) shape handle, smooth the head area, and coat ends to minimize checking during drying c) after drying, saw off checked ends-finished length is about 20 inches"

Drew prefers to make mauls the same way as froe clubs. Drew's favorite Dogwood root maul is about 30 inches long with a dry weight of around 10 pounds.

[David Ragan]

David, I believe it depends on the wood/logs you have. Although it is a good deal of work an entire large mallet can be made from a single log/piece, if it is long enough and wide enough. I think many people end up making the mallet head separately and then add a handle, hickory or ash make good handles.

Drew Langsner addresses: Glut, froe and maul construction in his book. He suggests removing the greater part of the wood for the handle in one of two ways 1) start out with an axe and go to a drawknife 2) saw kerfs around the handle area and split off the waste wood. He suggests making the transition area between the head and the handle a smooth transition instead of an abrupt angle which concentrates forces on the transition area. After the club has had time to dry he suggests cutting off the checkering on both ends, which is why he starts with a longer blank than he plans to end up with.

Drew lists the steps for making a froe club "a) select a sapling 3-4" in diameter, about 30" long. Knots at one end help prevent splitting during use b) shape handle, smooth the head area, and coat ends to minimize checking during drying c) after drying, saw off checked ends-finished length is about 20 inches"

Drew prefers to make mauls the same way as froe clubs. Drew's favorite Dogwood root maul is about 30 inches long with a dry weight of around 10 pounds.

Man, did I ever run across the right guy to get with on the green woodworking!

It had occurred to me that making a maul out of a piece in which a natural branch could serve as a handle might be best?

[paul cottingham]

That is great, Mike. We going to use the Dogwood root, right? If we can get one big enough. If now, I can ask my people about it. Come to think about it-I am not excited about digging up a Dogwood root, ha ha.




That is what I thought, Jim......if you're trying to get straight grain, you just let the wood split along anyline it wants. that is what I witnessed after some crude drawknife work on the oak this weekend. I just put the wedge in the middle of the log and pounded the crap out of it till it was fully in. Can you go wrong with that method?

Then, To start the wedge, I had just chopped out a small area with the hatchet and set the wedge.

Here's another question-

Under what circumstances do you start the split from the end of the log, when the log is short enough?

And, what is a good way to steady the log on the ground, to keep it from rolling when splitting. A log on each side? A wooden stake to each side? How about a Rube Goldberg special sled with adjustable width sides to secure the log? Of course, you still need something solid underneath.

Not trying to hijack:)

Honestly, i would always start the initial split of an intact log from the end, preferably utilizing an existing split.
A steel wedge in the end, followed by a steel wedge in the resulting crack in the end, a glut, then a wedge, hopping along the log. You will need a hatchet to cut away wood "threads" that is holding it together.

[David Ragan]

Whats up with the $99 LN splitting wedge? Mine from Ace Hdwe was $13, roughly the same size:



http://d3h1zj156zzd4j.cloudfront.net/catalog/2-w-axe-149.jpgThe only diffo I can see is the serrations.

[Mike Holbrook]

I prefer ridges on my potato chips when I'm dipping french onion dip, except neither one is paleo so I don't eat them anymore. Got me David, the Gransfors ones I bought to help fell trees were cheaper than that and they were very sharp, twisted & forged & came with leather covers.

[Bill Adamsen]

Mike:

I do exactly what Paul recommended. I keep a large number of wooden wedges typically made out of Locust, White Oak or Hickory (really, anything that's available) so that I don't lose a good steel wedge when I can't get the tree split full length. The only real trick I've found is to chamfer the top edges so the wedges last longer. In the photo you can see I got lazy and just chamfered the long sides and as a result lost some chips on the ends. They are cheap and easy to make and having a bunch handy is nice when splitting long logs. When chainsawing to separate the split halves, the chainsaw is often very grateful for the wooden wedges.


Honestly, i would always start the initial split of an intact log from the end, preferably utilizing an existing split.
A steel wedge in the end, followed by a steel wedge in the resulting crack in the end, a glut, then a wedge, hopping along the log. You will need a hatchet to cut away wood "threads" that is holding it together.

[Jim Koepke]

When chainsawing to separate the split halves, the chainsaw is often very grateful for the wooden wedges.

I don't know about the chainsaw being grateful... I know my wallet is grateful for not having to purchase a new chain.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

I just bought an old Keen Kutter axe head with 9" cutting surface, from that auction place. I'm not sure it will work like a wedge but after watching a large number of similar axes at auction, I can see that the people who use these axes obviously beat on their large heads with something hard enough to eventually start mushrooming them without breaking them. The design is pretty close to flat ground for the entire length of the head on both sides. I will make a handle for it and either use it to separate pieces of split logs or as a splitting tool or both. Should also serve to make the groove to start a split on the end of logs.

I also found a 9" long nicely tapered 5.5 lb wedge that looks like it might work well so I bought it too.


I will post some pictures of tools for splitting after I get a more complete collection. After David gets back over here and carves up that Dogwood I harvested ;-)

[David Ragan]

Thanks for the comments. I have split a good deal of wood for firewood. I have also used wedges a good deal for felling trees. I have used commercial wedges of several types including metal and plastic. I also have two very pricey Gransfors wedges with twisted bodies. This subject, however, is one of those that the more I have delved into it the less sure I have been concerning how much I actually know about splitting. In specific, trying to split precise 3/4- 1" pieces from a log retaining the grain of the wood for the entire length of each piece, is much different than just breaking a log into pieces to burn it or allow it to dry faster.

I took several green wood courses. We only actually split pieces to work with in one class. The pieces I split were for short 8-10" spindles, easily done with a froe and froe club. What I am discovering is splitting 24=40+" small pieces from a log is a whole different story. I have watched all Curtis' videos multiple times and I still do not feel like I am getting the whole story. Often short videos leave out large parts of the time effort and work that goes into accomplishing a task, in order to present the information in an easily digestible form. For instance Curtis starts with pieces that obviously are ideally suited for the splits being made from them without necessarily showing all the steps and decision making that went into getting the various pieces.

I took down what looked like a good white oak last week. I sawed logs 24-40" long from that tree, I was disconcerted to find out that a good deal of the wood was very poorly suited for use. Rot in the center of the tree not visible even in individual logs for instance. I am developing a greater appreciation for choosing trees, logs... I was frustrated at the time & effort it took just to split one small log once. Admittedly I am learning here and discovering that splitting green wood for chair pieces does not bare much resemblance to splitting fire wood or using wedges to fell trees.

I plan to study Galbert's new book & Langsner's on the subject and maybe contact Drew and or Pete on the subject as well. I thought I would inquire here as well and post my findings. I know at least one other SMC poster is interested in the topic.

Another Tool! Sounds like a good one, too.

[Kees Heiden]

Here's another video to watch.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XplqYIzELjU

[Mike Holbrook]

Good one Kees! Looked like one of the gluts split. Interesting that the two starting wedges were both in the end of the log in the starting notch. I imagine that helps keep the split on course halving the log.

[David Ragan]

Totally awesome!

Love the sound effects w the wood splitting.

Dogwood gluts?

[Mike Holbrook]

Glutwork today. I could not decide how much to taper a glut or how dull/sharp to make the tip. I made three as test cases from the worst wood 1) small with narrow taper 2) medium with medium taper 3) large with major taper:

319565

First I had to build a brake for working with axes in the shop. I just happened to have a split white oak log handy.

Thanks for mentioning about the splitting noise David I thought it was my neck cracking!

[David Ragan]

Glutwork today. I could not decide how much to taper a glut or how dull/sharp to make the tip. I made three as test cases from the worst wood 1) small with narrow taper 2) medium with medium taper 3) large with major taper:

319565

First I had to build a brake for working with axes in the shop. I just happened to have a split white oak log handy.

Thanks for mentioning about the splitting noise David I thought it was my neck cracking!

That is some pretty dogwood. I like far right.

[Mike Holbrook]

I talked to Drew Langsner yesterday. He worked with LN on the design for the froe they sell. He says they are interested in making a wedge like the one that started this post, longer, wider, gradual taper. Although they may not have started production there may be a better wedge on the horizon. As a temporary solution I bought a couple axe heads on an auction site that I believe will help with the work for now. Axe heads with nice big heavy heads and slow gradual taper, suitable for striking and using as starting wedges. As I suspected Drew suggested against striking the Svante & Karrlson axes, even with a wood mallet/club. Now I am working on making axe handles.

[Mike Holbrook]

I thought I would update this post with the results of my search for the "perfect" wedge. The direction of this thread, as often happens, expanded the range of the topic. In reaction to the thread direction I am including axes that I intend to use for splitting, that is axes that by design or because I have just designated them as such, will also be used for splitting logs or parts of logs.

After considerable effort and many hours on auction site(s) I was never able to locate the specific type wedge that popular greenwood workers, specifically Drew Langsner, Peter Galbert and Curtis Buchanan all mention as the wedge to start splits with. The "starting" wedge would be a wider wedge with a very gradual taper, frequently being longer as well. The difference between the "starting" wedge and the typical wedge is mostly a matter of size (width) and refinement of design. From here on I am going to indulge in some personal opinion as well as strict accuracy so that I can make known what I "think" I have discovered.

The starting wedge is typically started in a man made kerf/notch along a line bisecting the center of the end of a log. The wedge is typically driven off center along the bisecting notch, more toward the top side of the log. The idea is to start a crack that becomes exposed on the top of the log. The crack along the top of the log is then expanded, guided, chased (by leapfrogging cruder wedges in the developing crack). Most of the wedges being made today are more designed to be used for making firewood, which means they are much less concerned with the precision and accuracy of the split and much more interested in how fast the work gets done. Although I have seen it implied that splitting is an inexact science that the green woodworker has little control over, I find evidence that slowing the splitting process down, thinking, tapping vs slamming and yes the use of more refined splitting tools, can often guide the splitting process with much more accurate results. I think many people would agree with this statement if they saw, first hand, how many blanks experienced buys like Langsner and Galbert can get from a log. I know that choosing the best tree/log/piece to start with has a major effect on end results, still I think there is more precision to splitting than many people may realize at first blush. The other major factor is the workers individual ability to read/predict the grain direction in trees/logs/individual pieces. This learned ability to read grain and figure out how to work with instead of against it is the most fascinating part of green woodworking for me. For me it is worth getting a little compulsively excessive about. Not that anyone on this forum knows anyone with any sort of excessive compulsive disorder!

The top picture is the wedges I now have in my arsenal. The thin twisted, very sharp, wedges are Gransfors Burks wedges and admittedly a little pricey. I bought two years ago, right after I dropped a tree on my dog training buildings roof, figuring at that point, that it might be the cheaper alternative for dropping trees growing on a very steep hill next to a business building. Anyone who has paid an arborist to bring a tree down a piece at a time knows what I am talking about. As it turned out the GB wedge, for me, is a good substitute for an "old school starting wedge".

The second group of "axe/hatchets" is a collection of old tools, axe heads, that I put together for various splitting scenarios and as a further substitute for an old school starting splitting tool. I talked to Drew Langsner and took a class from him and these are what I find appropriate and cheap for the required work. George and several others mentioned specific other brands, like Plumb, but I was not able to find the more popular tools at what I considered a reasonable price. Drew's suggestion was to go with whatever was reasonably cheap but serviceable as these tools will be beat mercilessly.

320350

320351

[David Ragan]

320350

320351

Man, now that is a real break down of the art and science of splitting a log!:)

I also think that probably if one takes their time and goes a little slower, there is a greater chance that the split will develop along natural grain lines.

But, I must ask, that was not you who abuse the butt end of that little hatchet?

And, those dogwood wedges on the left and right-is the long axis slightly off center? (Ha Ha--excellent work from what I can see:D)

[Mike Holbrook]

"Break down of the art and science of splitting a log!", David you wouldn't resort to puns to make a point would you?

No David, I am not the one who slammed the smallest axe in the picture with something metal and spread the end. I was the one who ground off a fair amount of the bent metal though. Once I get a dogwood club or two made, I hope to never strike a splitting device with a metal hammer/sledge/maul again. The two Gransfors Bruks wedges surprised me in terms of the twist in their blades actually seeming to help with splitting, so when I made the dogwood wedges I tried not to get bent out of shape over how much twist there might be in their opposing faces.

The smaller axe on the far right is the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe that I have owned for many years and limbed many a tree with. It's smaller thinner head will serve more to separate connecting fibers than split. The largest axe, with the long handle, is a Gransfors Bruks vintage head, rafting pattern, no longer made. The GB rafting pattern is over 4 lbs and was bought more as a felling axe and for chopping stuck chain saws and wedges out of the sides of trees. Not that I personally would have such an issue, but one never knows what situation his neighbor may wind up in. I bought the head at auction and hafted it with a store bought handle, at least until I make something better.

[Mike Siemsen]

I have metal splitting wedges but i usually just saw out wooden ones and toss them when they are done. Start with the froe, then drive the wedges (gluts) in the crack to widen it. Use several wedges in a row and tap on them so they work together. A 2 pound hammer is plenty. Take your hatchet and chop through the bark along the crack, makes a big difference. If you pound on or with an axe head you will deform the eye and ruin it, especially if it is metal on metal. Don't drive metal wedges with your axe.

[Steve Voigt]

Most of the wedges being made today are more designed to be used for making firewood, which means they are much less concerned with the precision and accuracy of the split and much more interested in how fast the work gets done. Although I have seen it implied that splitting is an inexact science that the green woodworker has little control over, I find evidence that slowing the splitting process down, thinking, tapping vs slamming and yes the use of more refined splitting tools, can often guide the splitting process with much more accurate results. I think many people would agree with this statement if they saw, first hand, how many blanks experienced buys like Langsner and Galbert can get from a log. I know that choosing the best tree/log/piece to start with has a major effect on end results, still I think there is more precision to splitting than many people may realize at first blush.

You can believe this if you want, but it's not true (at least the part about more refined tools), and I would hate for any newbies reading this to think that they have to go through hours of analysis and fruitless ebay searches for rarer-than-unicorn tools to do something as dirt simple as splitting a log. Guys like Galbert and Buchanan aren't better at this because they have magic tools: they're better because they've done it a thousand times. Watch Curtis's videos: I'm certain he's using plain old wedges.

Steel wedges can easily be bought for $5 at yard sales all day long. And gluts can be made out of anything. I usually make them from discarded cutoffs from the bottom of whatever tree I'm splitting, but I've also used 2x construction lumber in a pinch. I don't think I've ever spent more than about 90 seconds making a glut on the bandsaw. I've succesfully split plenty of red and white oak, beech, and maple this way. To the extent I've had problems, it was always a matter of wood selection, not tool quality.

The difference between hand tools and power tools is that with power tools, if you spend enough money you can get tools that will virtually do the work for you, or at least obviate the need for highly developed skills. But if you want to use hand tools you have to develop the skills. Premium tools can make it easier but they'll never substitute for repetition, practice, skill-building.

[Jim Koepke]

But if you want to use hand tools you have to develop the skills. Premium tools can make it easier but they'll never substitute for repetition, practice, skill-building.

This reminds me of the writings of someone who was excited to go watch a cooper at his trade.

He was hoping to discover the "magic" tools used by the experienced cooper so he could get some of the same to improve his own quest to learn the art.

What he discovered was it wasn't the "magic" in the tools. It was the experience in the hands, mind and heart of the artist doing the work.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I have never tried to split wood for a chair. When I was a kid I did split a fair amount of locust logs for fence posts. The logs we used for that would be 10"-18" in diameter, and about six feet long. I used to use just the regular firewood splitting wedges, a sledgehammer, and an axe. 95% of the work was done with the wedges and sledgehammer. The axe was just for trimming things up basically, kind of the way the fellow in the video uses the hatchet.

The best advice I can offer is to be patient. I've spent plenty of time beating on a wedge fifteen or twenty times thinking I was not getting anywhere only to have blow number 25 or whatever get results for no apparent reason. Twisting grain and knots will definitely cause problems. I see the fellow in the video above doing most everything from one end. I used to get a wedge started in the end, and then once the split was started I would transition a wedge to the side and then leapfrog as somebody mentioned above.

A lot of times by looking at the end you can see the direction the log "wants" to split. There will be an irregularity in the growth rings or a very small existing line of cracks, and in my experience you get much better results if you start your split in line with the natural weak point as opposed to arbitrarily picking a direction. It can be subtle, but makes a huge difference in how easy it is to get that first split. I always thought once you got the log split in half, the other splits were much easier.

[Mike Holbrook]

Steve,
You believe whatever you want to believe, but I don't believe much is hard and fast "true or false". Drew Langsner, Peter Galbert and Curtis Buchanan all mention and use a "splitting" wedge like I have mentioned which was the reason I started the search to find something similar. According to Drew Langsner Lie Nielsen is planing to start manufacturing a wedge specifically designed to start splits because as more people get interested in splitting wood for chairs there is a need and demand. It isn't that there is some magical tool here that I am suggesting is necessary to split logs. About the only difference in the "starting"wedge I have read about and used at Drew's is that it has a more gradual taper, is wider, longer and sharper. Certainly there are all sorts of chisels that have fairly subtle differences in design that may make them significantly better for specific work. My point is the design of a wedge can also significantly impact how well it works for the job at hand. I hope that this post helps others starting out trying to split pieces for chairs from actual logs. The best way I can think of to discourage a novice would be to have them try to split a white oak log without a few appropriate wedges. Unless I am mistaken Steve makes tools professionally and very nice ones too. I just don't think it is fair to assume that every novice is going to have the skill set to allow them to turn things they find at flea markets into tools that they can be successful with.

Jim.
Unless I am mistaken Coopers typically use a specially designed drawknife. Drew Langsner apparently got started as a Coopers apprentice in Europe. Drew offers a Coopers Hollowing Drawknife under tools on his web site and sometimes offers coopering courses. The point being people starting at a trade requiring the skill with hand tools that Coopering does certainly want to learn those skills with the appropriate tools or they may meet with a good deal of frustration. I don't know how much anyone here knows about Coopering but according to what I understand from Drew it is a very difficult job to do with hand tools. I don't think someone trying coopering wants to start out with a dull drawknife that makes it difficult to cut the required shapes.

I don't think we are talking about magic tools here at all. At the base level what I am talking about relates much more closely to using sharp vs dull tools or maybe tools that are formed such that they can by design make the appropriate cut/split vs a tool with the "wrong" shaped blade.

[Mike Holbrook]

Steve,
Curtis's log splitting video #2. The first wedge he drives into the log is exactly what I am talking about, it has a more gradual taper, wider and I think a little longer than the second wedge he chases the split with. Drew and Peter both describe and offer pictures of similar wedges in their books. It appears obvious that the first wedge Curtis is using has been used a good deal with a heavy steel maul which has mushroomed the end, probably repeatedly reground. The taper on that wedge is less than on any wedge I have seen available commercially or on fleabay. Elia Bizzari is selling split pieces for making windsor chairs with. I think Curtis & Elia are doing this together as Elia was at Curtis's picking up wood when I talked to Curtis last week. The point being these guys are splitting more logs than your average chair maker does to make a chair or two. I think Curtis uses his wedges pretty hard. Curtis and Drew are practically neighbors and apparently learn from each other and share resources. In the course I took from Peter, Peter used Curtis' Continuous Arm Windsor templates. Elia just filmed a DVD on making a Continuous Arm Windsor Rocker that should be available soon. Elia sent me to Curtis to get "his" full scale drawings and templates for making the Continuous Arm Windsor Rocker. Elia makes the older model of Peter Galbert's travisher and a reamer Peter helped develop. Several people sell or make Galbert tool designs...These guys know each other well and in my experience often share methods and techniques as well as resouces.

Drew Langsner has a Dogwood root glut that he apparently has used for decades, even in classes. Curtis suggests using dogwood for gluts. Although a glut can be made out of anything, I elected to use a dogwood I needed to remove anyway. I hope it will save me from having to make more gluts for some time. I roughed my gluts out on a bandsaw and refined them a little with a drawknife, mostly because I wanted to experiment a little with the amount of taper.

I have split more than my share of logs over the years. In the past I was all about how fast I could split a log into the pieces to make fire wood. Little pieces and hanging pieces were great for kindling. My point is splitting for chair parts is pretty much the other end of the spectrum of splitting from making fire wood. After finding that great tree, taking it down, sawing it into appropriate pieces.... it is nice to get as much in the way of workable pieces out of it as possible, especially if one plans to make multiple chairs. Drew marked split lines for our class that looked like he was planing to saw them out with a bandsaw to get those 1" Pieces vs splitting them out. He studied each log marking precise split lines and then revising them as more splits were made. I was surprised at how accurately we novices were able to make those splits with sharp tools and a little direction.

[David Ragan]

Mike, Nicholas, Jim, Steve, Kees, et al.....I have read the ongoing commentary with a degree of pride in the conversation that we have.

It is truly a wonderful thing to be able to discuss things, offer different points of view, and even disagree without getting ugly/profane/intolerant.

A couple of years ago, before I became more active posting here, another individual, whom I respect, in another forum said that one of the moderators on SMC was not fair, unreasonable, etc, and they quit. I did not ask for any more information, but have remembered that. After the last couple of years being here, from what I have seen, there is nothing to denote that.

I am saying-way to go mgmt. and moderators in facilitating a friendly, kind atmosphere:)

Enough editorializing.

Besides loving great tools, I do completely believe that (as Jim, and others have said over the ages), that for an novice such as myself, it is all the more important to have great tools. Many of the folks on this forum can do wonderful work with less than ideal tools. I cannot.

Equally important is that we develop good habits/muscle memory from the beginning. Maybe someday I can take some classes.