My Homemade Brute Captive Hollower

[Steve Huffman]

Last spring I bought the "Monster" Articulated hollower and I'm really having fun with that. I wanted to order the captive portion, but the website say's they won't take orders until Oct. and they are taking a break to catch up. Decided to just make one and use the Monster cutter bits and laser. This is the completed, unpainted version so far. I will paint it up after I actually try it out just in case I need to modify something. This is just about the maximum size and still have it on the ways, so I may have got a bit carried away on that issue.:eek: Will cut up to 30" deep and just need a steady rest to hold the longer vessels now.

It was fun to make, $58.00 materials, (I had the 1/4 steel plate for the ways) 9 hrs time.

[David DeCristoforo]

Looks pretty good. But you're not gonna like that quarter inch steel plate hanging off the end of the bed like that. There's gonna be a lot of vibration. Bracing? Also, you might want to consider a one inch boring bar or even larger for going that deep.

[Hilel Salomon]

I think that David may be right. Particularly if you go real deep. I have a friend who often uses a huge Thompson "gouge". This isn't a tool that Doug Thompson makes, but rather a four and a half foot bar. In order to use it, my friend has made a steady similar to what shooters will sometimes use to steady a rifle. I wonder, in case you do get vibration, if you couldn't make something to put at the end of the plate which will go down to the floor. I admire the rig though.

[John Keeton]

I agree with the observations. You could stiffen the plate by welding some square tubing on top. I find it helpful to angle the captive rig at times and it doesn't look like you have enough clearance for that. Also, I suspect the vibration will telegraph big time to the laser.

[Curtis Myers]

Wow, your not afraid to think big.
What are the blue and orange machines in picture 3 of 4.

Please let us know how your hollowing system works and progresses.

All the Best
Curt

[Doug Herzberg]

Steve, that's beautiful. Maybe a gusset or two would help if vibration is a problem.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice! I agree that you will probably experience some vibration issues when hollowing. Also agree with John and have the captured rig set at an angle on the bed. To hollow wide diameter HFs, I had to move the tail end of my lathe away from the wall to allow me to swing the captured boring bar into position. You will see what I mean when you turn a southwest style pot.

[Steve Huffman]

Thanks for the comments. You guys are right, I can wiggle it just a bit when it's that far back. The reason to go so far back is to get started on a very large (max size) vessel, and as you can see in pic's 1 and 2, I have a second hole drilled more centered to bolt to the ways. Yes, I got a bit carried away in the measurements. Any bugs will come out in the test and also the reason I didn't paint it up yet. Stiffening the plate won't be a problem.

Curtis, those are freeze dry machines I use in the taxidermy trade (turkeys heads, velvet antlers, reptiles, pets.... I have tinkered around with freeze drying some wood, and need to try roughed bowls sometime. It will speed up drying time, but may crack too, just need to take some time to experiment more.

John, your right, I'm thinking I may have to move the lathe out farther from the wall so that I can pivot the rig back more, or angled.

I doubt I will be turning anything that large, but it's nice to know I would have the ability as long as it's safe. I will be starting out small and see how things go from there. Everything feels real solid except for the plate.

Thanks Doug...how's the airbrushing going?

[Steve Huffman]

Yes Steve, sounds like that is going to be a issue for sure. Here's another thought, how about making another boring bar shorter to start the large vessel, plate doesn't have to extend off the bed, and also the shorter bar would turn sideways better. (Slaps forehead):eek:. The short bar is easy to make up, cheap, and could also be used for the short vessels. Oh this might be the ticket...going back to the drawing board for sure. Long and short boring bars, I need to think about it, but thinking 1/2 the size (length) of the first bar.
Steve, when you mentioned the southwest pot, the shorter bar just comes to mind. I have the Monster articulating arm, but for the 16 to 18 inch vessel this would be sweet.

Thanks you guys! Thoughts?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Steve, I have a couple of different size boring bars for my Monster system - you need them. Just remember that the deeper you go to hollow, the thicker the boring bar needs to be.

A lot of this depends on what style of HF you plan on turning. The wider the diameter, the more you will be using the boring bar pushed to the extreme end of the captured system - and is why I have the capture bar at an angle. You can lay things out on paper to see what angles you will be dealing with when hollowing different shapes.

[Roland Martin]

A lot of great suggestions, and from exceptional turners of hollow forms. Can't beat Creekers. On a side note, you want to make sure those doors are locked when the rig's in use :eek: !!!

[Steve Huffman]

Thanks Roland. That door leads out to the garage and the one closest to the lathe is lock unless I move something big out of the shop. Good point though.

[john taliaferro]

Mine is sometimes mounted on a 1/2 x6 x36 so i can swing to the side ,all i did was a simple leg to the floor . If you still have any vibration bolt on a used brake rotor or a heavy chain

[Steve Huffman]

Steve, I have a couple of different size boring bars for my Monster system - you need them. Just remember that the deeper you go to hollow, the thicker the boring bar needs to be.

A lot of this depends on what style of HF you plan on turning. The wider the diameter, the more you will be using the boring bar pushed to the extreme end of the captured system - and is why I have the capture bar at an angle. You can lay things out on paper to see what angles you will be dealing with when hollowing different shapes.

Just tonight I turned a 6 3/4 wide southwest style with a 1 inch opening and though the captive area is 36" I need a shorter bar on overall length.
Everyone was right about the vibrations too, so going to a 1 inch solid bar next. Not to terrible, but the deeper I went, the more vibration. Not too bad, I still have all my teeth. :D

[Steve Schlumpf]

Steve - one other thing to keep in mind while hollowing - make sure the cutter is working at or just above center. Just because the cutter is at center when you start doesn't mean that is where it is when you are 8, 12 or 18 inches deep. Cutting below center will give you some serious vibrations!

[Larry Matchett]

I added a 1 1/8 bar to my monster system. Really helps with deeper forms. You might also consider slick tape on both bars of your capture rig. Rockler and Woodcraft both sell it. I have to admit I use the articulated system most of the time. I just seem to like it better but for forms over 16" deep I go to the captured system. Yours looks good. Great suggestions here.

[Steve Huffman]

Steve - one other thing to keep in mind while hollowing - make sure the cutter is working at or just above center. Just because the cutter is at center when you start doesn't mean that is where it is when you are 8, 12 or 18 inches deep. Cutting below center will give you some serious vibrations!

Your so right about that Steve. I found that out today, even though you start out tool in center, as I traveled in about 10 inches, the bit was a good 1/4 inch below center. I now raise the tool rest up to made the correction. In addition, I didn't notice but when you change between cutters, (3/16 and 1/4") there's a difference as well. Like you say, this could also be the cause of some of that teeth chattering. It's going to be lots of trial and testing, but I'm having a blast. Thanks to you and all for the tips and pointers!!!! I'll post the 2 final boring bars when I have them finalized.

[robert baccus]

All good advice--I would suggest 1 & 1/8 bar and make all the swing to the backside. Look into Woodcut cutter tips--no catches.