Garage sale finds, what is it?

[cody michael]

I went to a garage sale over the weekend and got a stanley bailey no 7 for 2$ also a saw and a few other tools, I already have a no 7 I bought a few weeks ago but this one seems better built, can someone tell me what the difference between the 2 is? I know the 1 I had previously has a cracked handle. I got a stanley square? for 2$ and the rest of this stuff along with some screws and drywall tools came to a total of 10$ including the plane and square.


the saw, the marking guage? and the other tool I'm not sure what it is, can anyone tell me what it is used for? and what a rough value would be for the less no 7 and these 3 tools. thanks

[cody michael]

more pics, lengthened to 10 characters

[cody michael]

more pics, lengthened to 10 characters #2

these show the 2 no 7's I have side by side, the newer one I bought (may be older) seems heavier built, thicker sidewall etc. is there any reason to have both? I am a power tool user, I just think hand planes are cool, especially for certain uses where they are better then the power tool version.

[Archie England]

Great acquisitions! Clearly, you deserve the YOU SUCK award: $10 for that batch. WOW!

The only reasonable answer I have about the two #7s, is that they are different types, e.g., 16 VS 18.


I look forward to hear those far more knowledgeable speak...

[cody michael]

yeah i almost felt bad, but i still had to borrow 3$ from my wife, lol. she had nothing priced and said 2$ for the plane i almost cpuldnt believe it

[george wilson]

The saw looks like the very desirable Disston #12. The value depends upon the condition cleaned up. These usually have a very light maker's etch on the blade,so be careful to not scrub it off.

Yours has an unusual wood in the handle. They are usually apple wood. Yours looks like some kind of mahogany. Actually looks more like Spanish cedar,but that would be very soft and an unlikely choice.

[Dave Beauchesne]

Great acquisitions! Clearly, you deserve the YOU SUCK award: $10 for that batch. WOW!



x 2 on the YOU SUCK!

The saw looks like a pretty fine D-12 to me, nice marking gauge and square - I will leave the plane summary and the drawknife to others - -

Well done -

Dave B

[cody michael]

on the saw what is a price range to expect? should i try cleaning it up or leave it to the seller?

any price recommendation on draw knife and gauge?

[Stanley Covington]

Definitely a Disston No.12. Impossible to assign a value based on a picture. Need to know if the plate is straight, how deep the rust pitting is, the condition of the etch and nib and teeth. It has been a while since I bought any No.12's (I own 9 or 10), so values may have increased, but if it was perfect and mirror bright, it would fetch $350 to start, and could go much higher depending on the year of manufacture. On the other end of the scale, if the plate is bent, oil-canning, pitted garbage, but the handle and nuts are in the shape shown in the picture, it might be worth $50.

Back in the day, the No.12 cost several times the sales price of the more workmanlike, but excellent, D-8. The steel used to make the No.12 was the same steel used for all Disston saws, and no, despite what the etch suggests, it is not made from British or London spring steel, but from American steel, which did not have the world-wide reputation of the British material despite being arguably superior. In fact, Henry Disston began the first mass-production of steel in the New World, specifically to supply his saw works.

Henry made the best Western-style handsaws in the world for many years, and the No.12 was the very top of his line. There are records of British hardware and tool stores not being able to keep Henry's products in stock, the demand was so high in Old Blighty.

The difference between the No.12 and the D-8 (besides the skewback shape that became the trademark of the D-8 in later decades) is the fancier handle, extra time spent grinding the plate thinner, and higher polish. As I understand it, the target market for the D-8 was the journeyman carpenter or woodworker who would take his saw to the jobsite where it would see harder service, while the No.12 was a prestigious item targeted towards the better-paid professional cabinetmaker or woodworker who wanted the very best, and kept his tools in a shop out of the weather. So you can imagine that a lot more D-8's were sold than No.12's.

The performance of No.12 in good condition with a professional-quality sharpening, and a set suited to the material being cut, is discernibly superior to lesser saws, IMO.

I apologize to the fans of Simmons, Atkins, Keen-Cutter, Bishop (I love Bishop saws), et al, for they are all fine saws too, but Henry led the way and others tried to keep up.

Stan

[cody michael]

you can see the stamp on the blade, is there any safe ways of cleaning it enough to give people a better idea of its worth? I don't want to damage it.. seems straight. thanks for your detailed post, it is very informative.

where would be the best place to try to sell this saw to someone who would appreciate it?


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[Archie England]

Well, it's straight (the D12). As to value, yikes, I dunno for its current state (maybe $75-125, given the pitting [imo]); but otherwise when shined up and polished, maybe $150 or more.

Good looking drawknife, though not in pristine condition. Value as is, maybe $25-35. Since I'm unaware of that maker, I would not expect it go for a premium of over $50.

Drats, I was hoping someone would comment on the casting differences of the two #7s.

[Jim Koepke]

Drats, I was hoping someone would comment on the casting differences of the two #7s.

Not much to say, both have rings around the base of the knob, 1929 and later. One has the rib cast at the toe and the heel, started in 1933, one doesn't.

jtk

[cody michael]

the saw is spoken for, if anyone has any interest in the no 7 plane (i will be keeping nicer one) the draw knife or marking guage let me know

[cody michael]

Not much to say, both have rings around the base of the knob, 1929 and later. One has the rib cast at the toe and the heel, started in 1933, one doesn't.

jtk

is the "rib" cast at the front and back where it is slighlty thicker? that would be the newer one then correct? as users is there any known difference any reason to keep one over the other?

[Nick Stokes]

Clean them both up and see which one you like using more?

To my knowledge there is no noticeable difference between the "Types" as far as using them goes. If you do some research you'll find that the differences are usually cosmetic.

[cody michael]

thanks! i appreciate this

thanks for input on value, any have an idea of value on marking gauge?
Well, it's straight (the D12). As to value, yikes, I dunno for its current state (maybe $75-125, given the pitting [imo]); but otherwise when shined up and polished, maybe $150 or more.

Good looking drawknife, though not in pristine condition. Value as is, maybe $25-35. Since I'm unaware of that maker, I would not expect it go for a premium of over $50.


thanks for input on value, any have an idea of value on marking gauge?

Drats, I was hoping someone would comment on the casting differences of the two #7s.

[Stew Denton]

Cody,

As Jim listed above, the older plane is the one without the raised rib on the toe. It is the one with the $20 sticker on it. As he mentioned, the newer one was made after 1933.

Jim is more knowledgeable than I am on these planes, and could have mentioned, but didn't, that the older plane was made in the Stanley golden age of plane making, and is more desirable than the newer one. They changed the design of the top of the frog that the blade mounts against, and the older one has the better design. The newer one took less machining, and was cheaper to make, and it does not have the older better design.

You need to take a few more pictures if you want us to identify the older plane more closely, what is needed is a photo of where the copyright dates go, behind the frog, and a photo of the logo on the iron. If there is not date between the back of the frog and the front of the tote, then I think it is a type 15. At least some of the type 15s have "made in USA" there instead of a patent date. The logo on the iron is less definitive, because folks changed irons when one wore out, or became too damaged to use, but quite often the iron is original, and can help identify the age and type. If it does not fit the age of the rest of the plane, that is normally easily seen.

Right now, we can tell you that the older one is at least a type 14, I think. It has a raised ring around the knob on the front, and the tall form knob, so as a wild guess, I think it was made between about 1929 and 1933, as Jim mentioned above. It could also be a type 15, but to hone into the exact type and date we will need the other two photos.

What I can say is that both planes should be good users when cleaned up, tuned up, and sharpened. I, and I think most others, who follow these old planes, would choose the older one in a heartbeat, based on what I can see since the planes look to be in roughly the same condition.

The old Stanley planes, like you have there, are some of the best planes ever made. Certainly better than anything made today other than a tiny number. You won't buy a new one as good for the same money as you can find one of the old ones for, if you look a little. In my view, both are winners, but especially the older one.

Stew

[Archie England]

thanks! i appreciate this

thanks for input on value, any have an idea of value on marking gauge?


Technically, I don't know; but, my guess is about $20, as is; or about $30 (or even more) if cleaned up. The pins look great. The brass screw and the metal sliding track, which is valuable for marking mortise/tenons, looks great, as well. And, it's a SW era Stanley #77. Hopefully, those in the know will chime in since you've added those excellent pics.

[Harold Burrell]

You ObvioUsly are a very Shrewd bUyer. Congrats MiKe!!!
(Yeah...I know...Michael is you last name. But I needed a "K".)

[cody michael]

thanks for all the input, you guys really know a lot about these things, on the draw knife and marking gauge what should I do to clean it up for sale? I don't want to damage anything that would matter to buyer.

[Archie England]

If you've not ever sharpened a drawknife, then I respectfully suggest that you leave it alone. They can (and do) bite the unsuspecting, very easily.

Otherwise, ....
With the handles pointed up, you could submerge it in an EvapoRust bath ($10-20 cost, or profit down the drain), or citric acid bath (don't know cost) or buy some sand flex blocks (~$15) and carefully sand or use aluminum foil and water (then follow with oil. [I've just been reading about this; it sounds too good to be true]) or use a brass wheel on your grinder and give it a good cleaning, followed by a buffing (if possible). THEN, flatten the back and the bevel.

Wait, this will take a good bit of time and perhaps money: probably more invested than an expected return (unless you just happen to be set up for rehabbing vintage tools)! So, what do you think?

[cody michael]

I already have evaporust, and a wire wheel grinder, I will have to think about whether to sell as is or clean.

[cody michael]

I posted the draw knife and marking guage in the classifieds sections if any one is interested, also the plane will be up for sale shortly.

I currently don't have a block plane, if someone wanted to do a trade/trade plus cash for any of these 3 tools I would be interested.