Norman Hitt
08-19-2005, 3:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Page
Hi Norman,
I remember reading about how to build a box as you describe but I don't recall the details on it. Can you post the procedure for all of us?
Bruce, since I don't have a way to put a drawing on, I'll "try" to give the directions so you can do it, (and it is truly easier to do than explain, so bear with me and ask any questions If I haven't made it clear).
1. Resaw a board
2. "Keeping the two pieces together" as they were sawn, run both boards, (one on top of the other), across the tablesaw to trim one end square, then measure and mark the boards "the length of ONE side + ONE end + one saw kerf width", and cut to length, (still keeping the two boards together)
Note 1:see edited note at the bottom, to put the face "Sanding Step" here.
3. (Now for explanation clarity), grab one end of the two pieces (still held together with their resawed faces together as cut), with the left hand and the other end with the right hand and lay the boards flat, ( out in front of you), then flip the top board over away from you, exposing the two resawn faces.
Note 2: you will be using the resawn faces on the OUTSIDE of the box.
4. Mark the left end of the board closest to you with a "1" and the left end of the other board with a "1a"
5. Mark the right end of the board closest to you with a "3", and the right end of the other board with a "3a"
6. Measure from the LEFT end marked "1" the length of the end of the box and mark and draw a square cut line across the board, and then mark the left side of the line as "4" and the right side of the line as "4a"
7. Measure from the RIGHT end of the Other board marked "3a" the length of the end of the box and mark and draw a square cut line across the board, and then mark the left side of the line as "2" and the right side of the line as "2a".
8. Cut the board (with the kerf on the "2" side of the line) at the line between "2"/"2a"
9. Cut the other board (with the kerf on the "4a" side of the line) at the line between "4"/"4a"
10. Now set up to bevel the corners so as to not cut ANY from the length of the boards, AND that the faces from the resawing will be on the outside when the bevels are joined to make the corner.
With this procedure, on two of the corners, only the kerf width of the resaw blade and the sanding, keeps the corner from being a perfect grain match, and on the other two corners the kerf width of both the resaw blade, and the kerf width of the blade used to make the cut between the end/side pieces and the sanding, keep them from being a perfect grain match. You can see that the thinner the blades are and the less sanding that is done, the closer the grain match would be, (as long as the blade is thick enough to provide straight, square cuts), and this is as close as you can get to a Perfect Grain Match on ALL Four Corners.
Please red this over and see if it makes sense, and I didn't get any of the steps wrong or mislabled. I've read it over and made 6 correction edits, but Sometimes, you know, we SEE, what we're expecting to see, not what is really there. :D
PS: Heck I totally forgot to put in the step for sanding the Resawn faces flat and smooth. :o Oh well, Ideally, it should be done between steps 9 and 10, but then you have to keep up with all the corresponding corners and remark them all, so it's easier if done between steps 1 and 2, (before all the marking and cutting is done), but DO NOT lose the orientation of the resawn faces for the steps that follow while sanding. Proper orientation can be assured by marking two or three angled lines across one edge of the two pieces, with the cut faces held together as soon as the resawing is done.
Note 3: Using this cut layout procedure will also enhance the overall look of boxes that use Dovetail or Box joints at the corners instead of mitre joints, by keeping the Grain lines consistant around the box.
Originally Posted by Bruce Page
Hi Norman,
I remember reading about how to build a box as you describe but I don't recall the details on it. Can you post the procedure for all of us?
Bruce, since I don't have a way to put a drawing on, I'll "try" to give the directions so you can do it, (and it is truly easier to do than explain, so bear with me and ask any questions If I haven't made it clear).
1. Resaw a board
2. "Keeping the two pieces together" as they were sawn, run both boards, (one on top of the other), across the tablesaw to trim one end square, then measure and mark the boards "the length of ONE side + ONE end + one saw kerf width", and cut to length, (still keeping the two boards together)
Note 1:see edited note at the bottom, to put the face "Sanding Step" here.
3. (Now for explanation clarity), grab one end of the two pieces (still held together with their resawed faces together as cut), with the left hand and the other end with the right hand and lay the boards flat, ( out in front of you), then flip the top board over away from you, exposing the two resawn faces.
Note 2: you will be using the resawn faces on the OUTSIDE of the box.
4. Mark the left end of the board closest to you with a "1" and the left end of the other board with a "1a"
5. Mark the right end of the board closest to you with a "3", and the right end of the other board with a "3a"
6. Measure from the LEFT end marked "1" the length of the end of the box and mark and draw a square cut line across the board, and then mark the left side of the line as "4" and the right side of the line as "4a"
7. Measure from the RIGHT end of the Other board marked "3a" the length of the end of the box and mark and draw a square cut line across the board, and then mark the left side of the line as "2" and the right side of the line as "2a".
8. Cut the board (with the kerf on the "2" side of the line) at the line between "2"/"2a"
9. Cut the other board (with the kerf on the "4a" side of the line) at the line between "4"/"4a"
10. Now set up to bevel the corners so as to not cut ANY from the length of the boards, AND that the faces from the resawing will be on the outside when the bevels are joined to make the corner.
With this procedure, on two of the corners, only the kerf width of the resaw blade and the sanding, keeps the corner from being a perfect grain match, and on the other two corners the kerf width of both the resaw blade, and the kerf width of the blade used to make the cut between the end/side pieces and the sanding, keep them from being a perfect grain match. You can see that the thinner the blades are and the less sanding that is done, the closer the grain match would be, (as long as the blade is thick enough to provide straight, square cuts), and this is as close as you can get to a Perfect Grain Match on ALL Four Corners.
Please red this over and see if it makes sense, and I didn't get any of the steps wrong or mislabled. I've read it over and made 6 correction edits, but Sometimes, you know, we SEE, what we're expecting to see, not what is really there. :D
PS: Heck I totally forgot to put in the step for sanding the Resawn faces flat and smooth. :o Oh well, Ideally, it should be done between steps 9 and 10, but then you have to keep up with all the corresponding corners and remark them all, so it's easier if done between steps 1 and 2, (before all the marking and cutting is done), but DO NOT lose the orientation of the resawn faces for the steps that follow while sanding. Proper orientation can be assured by marking two or three angled lines across one edge of the two pieces, with the cut faces held together as soon as the resawing is done.
Note 3: Using this cut layout procedure will also enhance the overall look of boxes that use Dovetail or Box joints at the corners instead of mitre joints, by keeping the Grain lines consistant around the box.