RT1000 router table setup help and insert drilling

[Scott Davis]

I found an RT1000, not used really but mostly assembled, on CL a few months ago. Most of it was put together, but the top was not attached and the insert not drilled. The owner had received it as a present and already had another setup. So I am looking to set it up but don't have any of the instructions that might have come with it. I have not drilled an insert before, so looking for any tips that might keep me from making an error. I have a Milwaukee 5615 router that I have used as handheld previously.

I need to attach the top first and was just going to use some "L" brackets, I am not sure what hardware came with original package for this part. Not elegant but should work fine.

For the drilling, was going to use double sided tape to center the base plate from the router and then mark all the holes. I know I will need to go get some screws that are a little longer to accommodate the thicker Lexan. I will drill the holes slightly larger than the screws and then countersink them so they end up flush. Will need to drill height adjustment holes too.

I would also like casters on it. The base has 3/4" plywood in a butt joint. I wondered if they made casters for that, maybe with an "L" shaped corner 3/4" cup of some sort but I don't see anything like that. I guess I would just glue some blocks to the inside and bolt the casters to that.

Anyone have any tips? Or other thoughts?

Scott

[glenn bradley]

I'd just give them a call and ask for a manual: http://www.rt1000.com/index.html

It is interesting that there is no support link to documentation on the site(?).

[Scott Davis]

Yeah I did that (twice), and Joe said he would email me them, but he didn't.
I guess I didn't want to bug him since this was bought on CL

[Rick Potter]

About those casters. I bought one about 5 years ago, and it came with a toe kick, which is totally unnecessary since the top hangs out anyway. I understand they may not have that on the newer ones, but if yours has the toe kick, beware of putting swivel casters on the bottom. Mine also had a recessed bottom which meant the casters had to be set in away from the edges so they could turn.

Wordy, I know, but bear with me.

I put non swivel casters on the back, swivels on the front, and the table was waay too tipsy. When I opened the big bottom drawer (full of routers) the table tried to tip over. Version 2.0 was to remove the front casters, screw a 1X4 hardwood board to the bottom of the toe kick, extending 5 or so inched past the side of the cabinet, and mount the locking swivel casters to that. That brought the casters forward and out to the sides, and the cabinet is super stable. Bonus: It is easy to access the locks for the front casters also.

If your table has no toe kick, but has a recessed bottom, I would at the least, mount the casters to a plywood base and put the table on that. Unless you are very short you will probably like the extra height.

PS: You will like the table, it works great.
PPS: If you are not using a lift, why not use hinges on the back of the table to raise it up and adjust the router. Gravity will hold the table down, it's heavy.

[Scott Davis]

Rick,
Great tips!
Love the hinge idea. I will look into it

Thanks

Scott