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View Full Version : Anchorseal, or other end sealant



Todd Burch
07-24-2015, 6:45 PM
I've used anchorseal before. I bought 5 gallons of green from Baileys. I think I only used 1/2 of it, then I stored it, then the bottom of the pail cracked, and I threw it out after 10+ years.

I'll probably get another 5 gallons soon. Do you use a brush to apply it? How do you store your brush? From what I can remember, it seems it would be too stiff to spray via a pump sprayer, especially in cold weather.

If you don't cover your log ends when the tree is felled, and you go a few weeks without using it, do you just forego it's use at that point?

Do you use multiple colors for different flavors of wood?

What percent of your logs do you use it on?

Thanks, Todd

Danny Hamsley
07-26-2015, 8:41 AM
I use the original formula from the manufacturer, UC Coatings. I use it on all hardwoods as soon as possible after felling. After a couple of weeks without sealing, it may only be of marginal value. I do not use on pine or cedar as they generally do not split. Commercial pine mills do not use it. I use the clear drying formulation because I want to be able to see the growth rings when sawing so that I can center the pith and understand the ring orientation in the boards that I am sawing.

George Bokros
07-26-2015, 10:55 AM
90 degrees is a little hot in my opinion to apply finish. It will tend to dry very quickly not allowing the finish to flow out hence the brush marks and bubbles. One trip to help with bubbles is to "tip off" the varnish when applying.

Danny Hamsley
07-26-2015, 11:51 AM
I apply with a large paint brush. I put the anchorseal in a smaller bucket that has a lid when applying. When I finish, I just leave the brush in the small application bucket with the anchorseal. The brush never gets dried out and stiff this way.

Tim Offutt
07-27-2015, 1:16 PM
I use the standard UC Coatings material and usually apply it with a six inch roller as soon as possible after felling.

I have a friend who tints it with dye, certain colors for certain woods. I'm color blind so it doesn't interest me.

Al Weber
07-27-2015, 2:16 PM
I use the original stuff and the largest foam brush I have at hand. I apply it in a heavy coat on hardwoods. I use it anytime I have a log for future milling. I've applied it a few days after the fact but usually by that time I have some cracking anyway so I'm already too late although I think it does slow the rate of drying even if applied late.

Cody Colston
07-28-2015, 12:01 PM
I use the original formula applied with a 4" paint brush. I buy the AS in 2-gallon buckets and it lasts a long time as I only saw lumber for my own use.

Todd, I see you are now in Chappel Hill instead of Katy. Good move, IMHO. :D

Todd Burch
07-29-2015, 12:13 PM
Yes, Cody, it's much better! Closer to you too!

Frank Drew
07-29-2015, 12:30 PM
I used Green Wood Sealer that I bought by the gallon from that woodturning supply company in Utah; it might be identical to Anchorseal. I applied it with an inexpensive bristle brush to unchecked endgrain; any checking and I'd cut off the affected portion then seal. I love the stuff and think it makes a big difference.

Ed McEowen
08-07-2015, 11:00 PM
I have used black driveway sealer that's sold in 5 gallon buckets for about $20 at the big box store. It seems to work to seal log ends. The ingredient list says it has sand in it, so you might see occasional sparks when entering the log, but I haven't noticed significantly reduced band life. So there, for what it's worth . . . (maybe about $80).

Danny Hamsley
08-08-2015, 10:47 AM
I have used the mobile home aluminum roofing paint. Called Kool seal at Lowes. It seals, but you sacrifice the brush, your shirt, your pants, and your shoes. Awful stuff to mix and apply. Just not worth it. I am an anchorseal guy. Sometimes perfect application and simple elegance takes the cake. Maybe this is because as I am getting older and some things are just not worth the fight.

Morey St. Denis
08-13-2015, 3:30 PM
Specifically regarding "How do you store your brush?"... I fold & wrap mine in "Saran" or similar thin plastic food wrap while squeezing out much of the air space, perhaps finishing with a rubber band or some masking tape tight around the bristle retainer. The vapor pressure of soluble wax emulsion is low enough that it will typically last several weeks in good enough condition to re-wet it and work the end against some scrap material and it quickly becomes ready for further reuse.

Kevin Jenness
08-14-2015, 11:36 PM
I have found that a cheap bristle brush left on top of the gallon can of anchorseal will soften up with reuse and work fine for months on end.

Cody Colston
08-15-2015, 8:51 AM
I have found that a cheap bristle brush left on top of the gallon can of anchorseal will soften up with reuse and work fine for months on end.

Me, too. I use the 4" chip brushes from HD and toss them when they become too stiff.

Dan Hintz
08-18-2015, 4:38 PM
I think my go-to brush is about 2" wide. For large areas, I pour directly from a large Dixie cup (filled from the bucket), then spread with the brush. Come cleanup time, I gently squeeze all excess out of the brush, then dip it in hot water for a few minutes, then run hot water over it. It will be a bit stiff after it dries, but upon the first dip back into the AS and the first brush, it's back to normal. I store the brush in the plastic folder it came in.

John TenEyck
10-24-2015, 2:12 PM
I just started using wax emulsion and think it's making a big difference in the amount of end checking I'm getting. I had some Advantage Lumber end sealer left over from my deck project this Summer so I decided to use it on the WO logs I just milled. I've always used whatever left over paint I've had lying around up until now and it did a pretty good job, but I think the wax emulsion is better. I haven't seen a single check that wasn't already in the log ends when I got them. I think I'm a convert. Plus it's clear so I can see the grain underneath.

John

Phil Stone
10-26-2015, 12:24 PM
I use a home-brewed wax emulsion (wax melted in a double boiler blended with mineral spirits). The leftover goes in a peanut butter jar, and it hardens. When I need to use it again, I put the peanut butter jar back in the double boiler, and melt the emulsion down. I stir the mixture with the (hardened) 2" brush I used to coat lumber ends previously. The hardened emulsion on the brush melts, and all is ready to use when the mixture is completely liquid.

Todd Burch
11-23-2015, 9:44 PM
I bought a 2 gallon pail of Anchorseal 2, clear, a while back now, and have used it on several logs so far. It seems to be keeping the ends from checking just fine, although the weather is a lot cooler here now. I am using a cheap brush and it too is working just fine, even when reusing it, and taking no steps to preserve it between uses. I'm about 1/3 through my pail so far. I applied it to some pecan logs about 2 weeks ago now, the same day they were cut, and I haven't noticed any cracking. I am wondering, with the pecan, if spalting will be affected (happen faster, stop progressing, or be accelerated....)

Cody Colston
11-23-2015, 9:52 PM
I am wondering, with the pecan, if spalting will be affected (happen faster, stop progressing, or be accelerated....)

In the warmer months, I suspect sealing the ends would facilitate the spalting process by keeping more moisture in the log. Now? It doesn't matter because the temps are too cool for the fungi to grow.