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David Pascoe
07-23-2015, 3:01 PM
What is the best sandpaper for lacquer and polyurethane varnish? These ultra hard finishes just seem to wear out both me and my sandpaper in no time and it seems not to matter whether I use cheap or expensive papers. For wet sanding between coats I'm using Norton and a cheap Italian paper and neither cut very fast. My hands cant take it any more, I need something that will cut these finishes FAST. Unfortunately, I can't power sand. 3M dry papers are great for the rough work, but when I get into the 600 - 1,000 range, I havent' found any good wet papers.

Todd Burch
07-23-2015, 4:10 PM
I use a 220 grit, or 240, stearated paper. Usually 3M or Norton. I buy at a proper paint store.

Bill White
07-23-2015, 5:37 PM
Have you tried the non-woven pads like Scotch Brite?
Bill

Doug Ladendorf
07-23-2015, 7:15 PM
I don't know about wet sanding but look at Abranet and Micro Mesh.

John TenEyck
07-23-2015, 7:16 PM
Why are you needing to sand so much? All I do is scuff sand between coats with 320 grit dry paper, and I'm ready to apply the next coat.

John

Scott Holmes
07-24-2015, 3:35 AM
Lacquer is indeed a hard finish; poly is not hard, it is tough, not hard; it doesn't sand well. #1 trait of poly is abrasion resistance; sanding is abrasion.

Wet sanding is for AFTER the final coat. Scuff sanding for adhesion (needed for poly; not for lacquer) is best done with fresh 240 - 400 grit sand paper. Any finer and the poly may peel and/or blister down the road...

To just get rid of roughness with lacquer 320 is my choice... This between coat sanding is quick and easy; if it's wearing you out, you're sanding to much.

I hate sanding but it's a must at times...

David Pascoe
07-24-2015, 3:35 PM
I hate the term "piano" finish but that accurately describes the caliber of my finishes.Yeah, Scott, I hate sanding, too, but I sell a product with a near flawless high luster finish and, as you know, the better the finish, the more it shows the slightest imperfections. Catch 22. I also use mosaics of thick veneers so that there are virtually no seams/ crevices showing. That involves repeated filling with varnish all depressions with an artist's brush and sanding, sanding, sanding. Never use anything less than 400 grit and finish with 1000 - 1500.

Yer right about poly, its like epoxy.

Someone suggested I try sanding with mineral spirits rather than water. WOW! that's the answer. It took down both lacquer and poly amazingly fast. I knew this long ago, but had forgotten it. The cheap Italian paper that I bought two 100 sheet reams two years ago still wears down fast but at least it doesn't wear me down quite as rapidly.