Could you use a 55 in place of molding planes?

[Cliff Polubinsky]

I've been reading Mat Bickfords book and would like to try making moldings by hand. The hitch is that I don't have any molding planes. But I do have a Stanley 55 that I bought from some friends a few years ago when they needed some cash. I've never used it or even looked at it much, but I started to wonder that if I take the fences and depth stops off could I use it like a hollow or round? Is this undoable or maybe worth a try?

Cliff

[Tom M King]

317711I have a couple of 55's, and do use them when I don't have the right molding plane. The drawback is the cutter hanging out in the air without benefit of a plane throat. You can do everything one will do IF you choose the piece of wood wisely. They did make special attachments for hollows and rounds, but I've never used them since I do have H&R planes.

Sharpen the iron super sharp, take small bites, and get wood with grain not coming up out of the board back towards the cutter. I can't imagine using one without a fence, and the depth stop is important too. The only time you might not use the depth stop is for grooving, when you start on the end of the board away from the cutter and work back. Even then, the depth stop tells you when to stop.

The shavings in the air in that picture are short because the grain on that board is coming up sharply out of the edge of the board going away from the iron.

[Jim Koepke]

Cliff,

The #55 has 4 fluting blades in the standard set. These will cut like a round soled plane without having to use the fence. Though you do get a straighter cut with the fence.

To make a round corner like a hollow soled plane, the movable skate can be set and adjusted for the center of the blade. It is a little tricky, but can be done. The beading cutters can be used with the two skates set to the same plane. The arc is different than a hollow soled plane. There are 4 hollow and round blades in the standard set with the #55 that more closely match the profile of standard fixed size hollows and rounds. Getting them to work is part of the fun of using the Stanley 55.

The fences are also adjustable for the angle of tilt the plane will need for a particular job.

jtk

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Tom,

Since Hollows and Rounds don't usually have fences or depth stops, what would be the difference?

The method Bickford suggests is to use rabbets to define molding then use the molding plane to round out the profile. When you make the straight lines go away you stop. This way there is no need for a fence or depth stop. I'm probably explaining this badly but if you look at his book it seems to make sense.

Cliff

[Bill Houghton]

Can't speak to a 55, but I've sure used my 45 in place of a molding plane, and more than just a few times.

[Jim Koepke]

Tom,

Since Hollows and Rounds don't usually have fences or depth stops, what would be the difference?

The method Bickford suggests is to use rabbets to define molding then use the molding plane to round out the profile. When you make the straight lines go away you stop. This way there is no need for a fence or depth stop. I'm probably explaining this badly but if you look at his book it seems to make sense.

Cliff

Cliff, yes, you can use the 55 without a fence. The fence does have advantages in many cases. My Stanley 45 gets used often for making molding. When a bit more complexity is wanted the Stanley 55 may get to come out and play.


Can't speak to a 55, but I've sure used my 45 in place of a molding plane, and more than just a few times.

The question might be do you do this with or without a fence? (or both?)

Most recently, even with the #45 & 55, I have decided to invest in more traditional hollows and rounds along with some other complex molding planes.

Please do not take this as a vote against the Stanley 55. It is a steep learning curve plane to produce some molding. It can be a great plane. Just be aware that you, like so many others, will likely discover every mistake that can be made. Expect frustration along the way to an emergence of an ability to create and reproduce some awesome moldings to dress up your work.

One of the difficult parts of the #55 is the adjustable moving skate. Once you figure how to set it to cut the same as the nonadjustable skate and control the depth of cut with the fixed adjuster, you are on your way.

jtk

[Tom M King]

Hollow and round planes set to take a shaving the full width of the iron are not only easy to use, but a pleasure to use. I expect you could get by with balancing on the skate, but I wouldn't be good enough to make a smooth, straight molding with it easily.

All the molding planes I use came from a few sellers in the UK-mostly less than 20 bucks with shipping, but these days it might be up to 35 or 40. Hollows and Rounds come up every day. I just need something I can use, so I never worried about a matched set, or who made them, or when they were made. I don't bother to buy ones from here that have spent decades, or maybe a century, in a barn.

I use the 55 when I don't have the right dedicated plow plane, and the beading cutters are good for astragals when part of a more complex molding, or when I need something that nothing else will do the job.