Japanese Stool, Version 3

[Alan Turner]

Here is a second Japanese style stool, which I made based in part upon the comments received on the posting of my first one, both as originally show, and with the seat modified.

I shared this second/third model with the Delaware Valley WW Club members last week, who test sat it. Most, esp. those of wider girth, felt the corners were sharp on the underside of their thighs. So, it was either sell it with a diet book, or enlarge it; I picked the second option. Ver. 3/4 is now well underway, with a second gimble mechanism/jig built for the router to scoop the now wider seat. This one comes in at 13.5 x 9; the 3d/4th version will be at 17 x 9.

On this version, the stretchers are simply screwed and plugged, which is not satisfactory, but I built it only for appearances and sitting; not for sale or long term use. I will keep it in the family until it breaks.

Materials are Am. Beech and Walnut. Color is a red mahogany Transtint Water Dye, shellac, and Waterlox.

Your comments are again invited.

Here are the prior threads:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22125
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22424

P.S. - I took the photos outside in the early evening for the additional light.

[Mike Vermeil]

Alan,

Sorry if I'm touching on an issue you've already addressed, but it seems to me that the upper portions of the legs carry too much mass in comparison to the lowers. When you posted pictures of the first version, something seemed of out of balance to me, and I think that may be it.

Now having said that, the stool is very, very nice, and this is just a small detail I point out since you really seem to be trying to work toward perfection on this one. Also, I think enlarging the seat as you're already planning will help the overall look besides just addressing the comfort issue.

[Mark Singer]

Alan,

I like this one the best! I would make the seat thicker and consider rectangular through mortises instead of round.

[Earl Kelly]

Alan,

This one looks more elegant with a higher comfort level. I believe you may have a "keeper" with this one. Once you get the larger seat model made, get some different size people to sit and give you an opinion, women also.

You might want to make a cute/funny stool with an optional seat belt, for those whose partaking of alcohol becomes excessive. You might not sell it, but everyone would stop and ask, giving you an opportunity to sell something.

[Steve Wargo]

I agree with Mark, and like this one best as well. But not certain that square through tenons are required to add anything to the piece. And from an ease of construction the round will allow you to produce them faster. Just my $.02. Very Nice piece. The proportions are excellent.

[Brad Tallis]

Alan-

I also like this one the best. I like the size of the seat and the "fluidity" of the piece. (Is "fluidity" a word? :p)

I tend to agree with the poster that said the tops of the legs look a bit "bulky", but I don't know how I would change it. Maybe if the seat was a bit thicker it might mesh better.

But, I do know, I wouldn't mind having one of your Japanese Stools sitting in my house!

Keep up the nice work...

Brad

[Jason Tuinstra]

Alan, you hit the nail on the head with this one! This one takes the prize. My only suggestion, and it's nothing major, is the thinkness of the rail/stretchers. They look a little too thick from the pictures, but you make the call. It looks fantastic!

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I think the seat looks a bit skinny at the middle as well...but I like it anyway. :) I need a shop stool if this one needs a home. :D

KC

[Jim Becker]

BINGO!!! (with agreement with KC...a little thicker seat would balance it proportionally with the leg profiles)

[Jason Tuinstra]

Alan, I got the catalogue pic all ready to go for you. I know I low-balled the price a bit, but I want you to sell a bunch of them! :p

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Looks like a winner to me! I actually like the "meat" at the top of the legs! :)

[Dan Forman]

I think this looks the best of the lot. Just to throw a monkey wrench into the works though, when you sit on it for any length of time, does the front of the seat cut into the bottom of your thighs? Looks like it might, though I don't have anything similar to try at home. I know you tried rounding the seat off on the first model, and got some negative comments about losing the line, but that was on a flat seat, without the top curved. I'm wondering what a little round off would do on the front of the current seat. It might not look quite as nice, but may be more comfortable to sit upon. Guess it's the old form vs function tradeoff. I really like the shape of the legs, and the scoop in the top adds a lot. A lovely piece.

Dan

[Jim Becker]

Dan, I think he would realistically have to use a chamfer if he wanted to ease the edge of the seat in order to keep things in style with the rest of the piece. Rounded edges of any kind (other than very subtle as he has to allow a finish to stick) wouldn't cut it in my mind...but my mind is, um...interesting some times!

[Alan Turner]

Thanks for the help, guys. Great forum.

To address a few comments:

-- The leg may have been shaped upside down as I intended originally to have the apex of the curve 1/3 down, and here it is 1/3 up, I think. I will deal with that!! I hate it when I mark a jig incorrectly.

The seat is 3/4" thick at the thinest. On the new one, it will be about the same. Weight (actual and visual) is an issue, and strength is not in these ranges.

A through tenon for the stretchers would be great, and were I to do it, I would go ahead and wedge it as I like the strength. But, this is to be a production piece (as brother Wargo noted) and even just M&T will require a bit of hand work, which is great, but not quick in terms of time/price point. The jury is out on this issue. Maybe like so many Chipendale makers, I will fake it. NOT. I do have a slot mortiser, and so may play with that in terms of the mortise. The shoulder cut can be by TS with the Kreg miter guage, or I can just cut the cheeks, and from the knife mark saw the shoulders, and pare to the line.

-- The present stretchers are 7/8 thick, and 15/16" high, and they need to hold repetitive weight. I might make them a bit thinner, and a bit taller. Not sure here. I have thought about the curves earlier suggested, but sometimes simple is beter, and I think this may be such a case. Maybe a cloud lift? NOT.

As to the seat thickness, I still will be finishing at 3/4" in the middle, which I feel is plenty strong, but on the 17"model, the ends will be at about 1 1/4" (1/2" deep arc).

-- As to the seat edge treatment, a chamfer is a tough cut on this shape. By hand, perhaps, but a tough machining set up. And, a bit uncertain. A bit of sanding to be sure, but beyond that I am still thinking.

I feel I am getting close.

Thanks again to all who offered suggestions.