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View Full Version : Questions, Questions, I am so thankful you have answers.



Roy Sanders
07-15-2015, 8:14 AM
Hi. I am attempting to learn how to engrave on wine bottles, using my rotator. As my signature indicates, I use CorelDraw x6. I used YouTube to learn how to take the photo and transform it into black and white, then invert it.

You guessed it, it doesn't come out like I would expect. I said it that way because two thirds of the videos do not show the engraving, just the set up. The videos that show the engraving, some show using masking paper, and some do not. None show using masking paper on a wine bottle, BUT they show engraving lettering. ERGO, my first series of questions;
1. Do I have to use masking paper when engraving glass; particular wine bottles?
2. Where do you buy masking paper; is that really what it is called?
3. Do you know of a video where the presenter shows not only the transforming; also the production?

NEXT

My laser bed, when lowered to the bottom, plus the rotator device, plus the bottle is still a bit too high. I have a Nice-Cut 40W laser and the 'measuring' tool is a plastic piece with arrow points on each end. ERGO, my second series of questions;

Is it reasonable to think that I can buy or build the four L brackets on the bed-frame to get the bed lower?
Do you think the L bracket could be universal enough to find a vender? who?
Is there a better way to measure my lens hight?


Ok, enough for this topic. I do appreciate the time and thought you donate to my learning. Maybe someday I will have a thought or answer that helps someone else.

Roy

Michael Hunter
07-15-2015, 8:53 AM
The "masking paper" is actually tissue (or even thin newsprint), intended to keep a film of water against the glass.

There is division here as to whether the water is necessary : I find that it gives more consistent results, but others are happy to do without it altogether.
If you don't need the water, then the paper is not necessary either.

Keith Winter
07-15-2015, 9:13 AM
The "masking paper" is actually tissue (or even thin newsprint), intended to keep a film of water against the glass.

There is division here as to whether the water is necessary : I find that it gives more consistent results, but others are happy to do without it altogether.
If you don't need the water, then the paper is not necessary either.

Michael's correct. Also someone was using Gelatin awhile back in the forum, worked amazing for high detail on glass. Keep in mind the wet paper will absorb some of your beam power so you will need to compensate by going slower.

Scott Shepherd
07-15-2015, 9:48 AM
I never liked wet paper because as soon as you turn the exhaust on, the paper starts drying out. By the time I'd finish engraving, the paper was dry and lifting off the surface, especially when it was around a glass. My solution was to buy a sandblasting cabinet :D

Mike Troncalli
07-15-2015, 9:50 AM
Agree re. the masking paper posts above.. My two concerns are the focus height and the inversion of your photo.

If your not able to get the material low enough to have your beam hit it at the correct focal lenght then you are not going to get a good engraving. Also not really sure why you are doing a inversion on a photo, but since I can see what you have I can't really comment too much about that.. Except to say maybe try some simple text or a simple black/white clipart first to get your engraving "zeroed" in before you try more complex engravings.

Roy Sanders
07-15-2015, 10:11 AM
This is very helpful so far, I learned a new something; and it is only 0900 CST. Thanks. I use a different laptop to do my CorelDraw and laser work. I will copy the picture I am attempting to engrave and post it in this thread. I may attempt to take a pic of the outcome I talked about. perhaps you will see something I am or am not doing to cause the problem.

Roy

Kev Williams
07-15-2015, 2:08 PM
Never found paper or masking (yes you can use transfer tape) or any other 'additive' to be of any help whatsoever for engraving glass.

I did however, after lots of experimenting, stumble onto a "process" that gives me results extremely close to sandblasting. No blotchy engraving, no banding whatsoever. Works great with any 2-color etching.

However, I've still never found the secret to engraving photos on glass. Can never seem to hit the right contrast between white, gray and black.

Mike Null
07-15-2015, 2:55 PM
Roy

I suggest doing a search of posts by Bill Cunningham.. He has done the best glass work I've seen and he has posted his technique in a thread some time back.

Dee Gallo
07-15-2015, 7:47 PM
I agree with Mike, Bill's work is second to none. As an extra suggestion, some people use dishwashing detergent to keep the surface wet. Personally, I don't like to do glass, it's kind of fickle. But when it comes out well, it's a thrill.

cheers, dee

Roy Sanders
07-16-2015, 12:19 PM
I agree with Mike, Bill's work is second to none. As an extra suggestion, some people use dishwashing detergent to keep the surface wet. Personally, I don't like to do glass, it's kind of fickle. But when it comes out well, it's a thrill.

cheers, dee
Thank you. I did search Bill and found his approach helpful. he also mentioned photograv. I cannot afford that, as I am not in real laser business; i do pens.
I did download, a trial of EngraveLab. It doesn't look as friendly as the Youtube demos I watched on photograve. Does anyone have an old copy of photograv you would sell? What i want it for is the function that allows me to do most of the work in CorelDraw then pull it to photograv and choose the medium and it automatically transforms the photo for engraving in that medium.
I am learning how to work over the photo in Corel, it isn't meant for laser engraving, so I cannot get that one function. Does not appear that EngraveLab does this.

Thanks

Michael Hunter
07-16-2015, 12:45 PM
If I remember correctly "The Gold Method" is a way of processing photos for engraving using Photoshop or Photopaint.

You should find it if you do a search of this forum.