Rebuilding Crescent 8" jointer lot of pics

[allan kuntz]

Well I finally got my 8" Crescent jointer home
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It is all torn down and all loose parts have been glass bead blasted. I have found a few things that I am looking for help with. After picking up this heavy machine from a buddy that is a welder I see that one of the webs that connect the sides on the out feed side is broken. It just needs to be welded and a buddy said he would fix it for me.
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Some one has cut one of the bearing caps off and installed bearings on one side. I have a machinist friend coming over to check it out for me. I think If I can I will convert the head to bearings on both sides. I think that the cap that has been cut will hold the bearing.
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[allan kuntz]

i could't get any more in the last post but hear are a few more pictures317339317341
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[Phil Thien]

It will be interesting to see how your machinist friend handles the bearing on the front.

The bearing conversion on the pulley side looks reasonable.

[allan kuntz]

I think there should be room to install 2 bearings. One on eithe side of the oil groove. If I need I can tap another bolt in the pillow block for support.

[allan kuntz]

The cracked base has been fixed. One bed done one to go. I used a product like Evaporust. Great stuff. Just need to polish it up. Some pitting but nothing serious. What do you use to polish something like this. I am not looking for factory shine. is there something that can be used to fill the pits and would you bother317446

[Phil Thien]

I wouldn't try to fill them, I'd wax it up and use it as-is. I think those tables look great just the way they are.

[Harold Weaver]

Allan,
On the issue of your table tops, there is a guy who is a member over at OWWN named Benoit Cote, French Canadian gentleman, who has a unique method of shining up his table tops. You can see his photos here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=16452

He also has his own website called www.machinerieantique.ca (http://www.machinerieantique.ca) in which he goes through the method of how he does it. I cannot seem to access his site right now, but in a nutshell he has the most pristine tops on restored equipment I have ever seen. He starts with WD40 and scorch brites to get rid of any rust, cleans them and then uses a random orbit sander with a scotch brite pad cut to fit and goes over the entire top with the random orbit and fine grade rubbing compound like McGuires or other comparative makers until the tops are absolutely beautiful. Almost looks like they had been reground. I have not tried the technique yet, but the pictures don't lie.

[allan kuntz]

I think my beds are ready for wax. They turned out quite well.You can still see the grinding lines. I used WD 40 and an old random orbit sander and scotch brite pads like a lot of people said and with some elbow grease presto no more stains. Gelled rust remover was labor savor. I may try the rubbing compound
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Someone recommended bondo to fix up some imperfections.I have never used bondo before. I am still not sure i want to go to that extreme but it would sure look good
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cool badge. Sure was easy to clean. wish everything was that easy to clean
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[Jesse Busenitz]

Cool project! I just got done with my Greenlee 16" jointer. Those old machines are just fun to use!!!

[allan kuntz]

Some pieces ready for paint. Still not sure about the body filler on the base
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[Phil Thien]

How thick is the base? It sort of looks like the imperfections are mostly in the paint? If that is the case, at least feather the edges (wear a mask). I've used old RO sanders to prepare metal for paint, it goes pretty quickly.

[allan kuntz]

It's not paint but almost like porcelain

[allan kuntz]

All painted and ready to start reassembling. No bondo. The flat black hides a lot and nice to spray. A wet edge is not real important. It just seems to dry one consistent shade. Flat!
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The cap on the end of the shaft is threaded and fits into the piece beside it. If anyone knows if the cap should be threaded tight or is it an adjustment so it fits tight to the cap. Is there supposed to be a grease Zerk in the hole in the end cap. There was some dried up grease in there when I took it apart
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[allan kuntz]

reassembly progress http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65392http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65393http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65394http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65395

I had a buddy press the sheave off of the head shaft and there was a sleeve inside to bring it to 1.250. The sleeve is keyed inside and out
http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65396http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=65397

I would have put the tables on but I want to lay it on it's side to paint the letters and didn't want to add a bunch of extra weight. I am going to try a method mentioned on this forum. I am going to attached a pad that you would put under a chair leg to a dowel and try blotting the letters