Considering the Grizzly G0513X2 Bandsaw

[Steve Kinnaird]

I considering the Grizzly G0513X2 17" 2HP Bandsaw

http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2

Any pro or cons that I should take into consideration.

I am on a tight budget, but opted for G0513X2 for the better accessories over the G0513

Hope to order next week if all goes well.

Thanks for your feedback
Steve

[glenn bradley]

I have had the G0513X for about 8 years and have been very happy with it. Dad bought one a few years after I did and has also been very happy.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I have had the G0513X for about 8 years and have been very happy with it. Dad bought one a few years after I did and has also been very happy.

Thanks, I looked at the G0513X, but wanted the roller bearings and other options, and the G0513X2 came with more options for the $$ as I added them to the G0513X

[Dave Lehnert]

The new issue of WOOD Magazine has a review of larger bandsaws. I don't have the mag in front of me so not sure if the 513X was reviewed but Grizzly did have a model or two in there.

[Steve Kinnaird]

The new issue of WOOD Magazine has a review of larger bandsaws. I don't have the mag in front of me so not sure if the 513X was reviewed but Grizzly did have a model or two in there.

Yes, I got that in the mail today.
The models that they compare are a step higher. They have the G0513X2BF. More machine than I need, but a nice review all in all.

[Ryan Mooney]

Opted for the 513X2F cause I like to do things you shouldn't ought do and the foot brake is on occasion handy for that. In general its been a dandy saw, its somewhat of a compromise between a large resaw saw and a smaller scrolling saw. In a perfect world I'd have both, its not a perfect world so this is close to as good as it gets. Occasionally I sort of wish I'd sprung for the slightly beefier 514 version but can't honestly say that the 513 hasn't done everything I've wanted so its mostly just size envy really.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Opted for the 513X2F cause I like to do things you shouldn't ought do and the foot brake is on occasion handy for that. In general its been a dandy saw, its somewhat of a compromise between a large resaw saw and a smaller scrolling saw. In a perfect world I'd have both, its not a perfect world so this is close to as good as it gets. Occasionally I sort of wish I'd sprung for the slightly beefier 514 version but can't honestly say that the 513 hasn't done everything I've wanted so its mostly just size envy really.

I do like the brake on the 513X2F & the 514, just can't see spending and extra $300 for it.

[Jason Beam]

I have the X2 -- 150% satisfied. It's a whole different class of machine compared to my jet 14" ... The cast iron wheels and the roller guides are the main values that this model offers. I would've liked the one with the brake, though -- it takes 22 seconds for the saw to spin down when i hit the power button. I have learned to live with that, just fine. Pretty minor thing, really. The saw is absolutely capable - with a Laguna Resaw King on it, I can slice off ready-to-glue veneers that come clean with barely any sanding/scraping. I can say it leaves nearly as clean a surface as a good quality table saw blade - it's that clean.

[Ryan Mooney]

I do like the brake on the 513X2F & the 514, just can't see spending and extra $300 for it.

Right, so in "normal" use .. meh.. you wait a bit longer for it to spin down no big deal. If you're resawing a piece of reaction or green wood or using it as a slabber (I built a sled and have used the full capacity to slab off boards, not easy cause dang! a 14" log is heavy! but doable) you can sometimes avert impending disaster with the brake when the blade starts to jam up because: wood was to wet, wood closed up on the cut, etc.. In practice its probably saved me one or maybe 2 blades, worth $300? not yet (the metal detector paid for itself a heck of a lot faster, ouch!) but eventually I reckon it will. Usually this ends up with a rather tedious process of spreading the cut with wedges to free the blade or otherwise cutting my way out, maybe a broken/cut blade would be cheaper if I was paying for my time.

I also kind of like the peace of mind of knowing there isn't a spinning blade right there, but that's somewhat a work behavior issue so likely doesn't apply to everyone.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I also have the G0513X2. Completely happy and then some. Bang for the buck doesn't get any better. A few times I wish I had opted for a saw in G0514 series (19"). I am sure it too has a great bang for the buck, if you have the bucks. I do wish for the foot brake. At $300 the option is a bit pricey. If it had been available when I purchased my saw, and I knew then what I know now I would have spent the money. I have found I will make a cut, shut the machine off, and turn my back to the saw with the blade still spinning to work on the next step. It worries the heck out of me that the blade is spinning while I'm not attending to the machine but it takes so long to stop I wouldn't get anything if I waited for it.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks, I looked at the G0513X, but wanted the roller bearings and other options, and the G0513X2 came with more options for the $$ as I added them to the G0513X

Sorry, I should have been more clear the "X" (without the "2") was a short lived version of the X2 without the cast iron trunnions; otherwise identical. Reviewer and public outcry bemoaned the absence of cast iron trunnions so Grizzly added them and the X2 was born. I can upgrade the trunnions for about $100 but, in all these years have not seen the need. The gear teeth are the same. My reason for posting was that I have been, for all intents and purposes, using the G0513X2 for years and it has been great. Dad's, being bought after the change, is the X2 as the "X" designation was discontinued when the trunnions were changed.

In all this time I have only thought about wanting a brake a couple of times. An extra pony wouldn't hurt but, with bandsaws, more power is always nice. The 2HP has done all the 12" resawing I have ever thrown at it and I work primarily in hardwoods and do break down my own lumber. Your blade preference will vary with how you use the saw but, with the exception of a short period of bad welds years ago I have been using Timberwolf 2-3 tooth vari's with good success. Woodslicers are also nice in the $40 and under area for blades. I keep threatening to get a carbide tipped blade to try but, the need has never been enough to nudge me into it. Maybe if I did more veneering.

[Prashun Patel]

Respecting your budget requirements, IF there's any way you can stretch to the G0514 series, I'd do it. I have it and have not looked back. With bandsaws, generally speaking, each marginal upgrade is a good one that you will appreciate. I use my foot brake - even if I'm not as much a risk taker as Ryan. It's a good safety device that removes the temptation to get your hands near a blade that's spinning down when retrieving your piece or clearing out cutoffs.

[Cary Falk]

I have had the G0513X2 for about 5 years without any issues with it. The only thing I didn't like was the plastic handles and handwheels. I changed them to metal and now it is a great saw.:D

[Mike Ontko]

After flip-flopping for the past year over whether to buy a fully equipped 14" or a decent mid-range 17" I just recently pulled the trigger and bought the G0513X2BF. It's my first bandsaw so I don't have anything to compare it to personally other than much larger and more expensive models I've used in academic or professional shops in the past. The recommendation to move up to the G0514 series is a sound one if you can swing it--buy the biggest you can push your budget to.

If you read through the bulk of related posts on this board...and there are a lot...you'll find heaps of information to help guide your decision. And, you've also got the latest edition of Wood Magazine mentioned earlier in this post to use as a reference.

In general, I'm definitely satisfied with my purchase, with the service received from Grizzly (I live about 20 minutes away from the Bellingham warehouse), with the packaging and instructions, and with the overall quality and soundness of the machine. Since this is my first BS, I'm only just beginning to learn the ins and outs, but this saw seems like an excellent starting point.

From my own (short-term) experiences and observations:

- The foot brake switch on the X2BF model can definitely come in handy in situations where you don't have a free hand to reach the OFF switch.
- Changing blades seems a little awkward. Maybe it's just me, but I have yet to be able to get a blade removed or installed smoothly without having to carefully negotiate the angles and area around the bottom guide bearings.
- The drift adjustment feature on the fence is nice, but as mentioned in the Wood article, it's too easy to knock out of alignment.
- I DO NOT recommend getting the Shop Fox Heavy Duty mobile base for this saw. For one, it's too deep--unless you include a platform base of around 1-1/4" in the bottom you won't have enough clearance to open the lower access door. Somewhere on this board is another related posting mentioning a mobile base that would be ideal, and similar to what comes built-in on larger or higher-end saws.
- The blade tensioning gauge leaves a bit to be desired, IMHO. The scale is purely relative (numbered 1, 2, 3, etc.). The user manual recommends using the deflection technique for determining blade tension, but there seems to be too much variability in that method to suit my compulsions or desires for achieving the cleanest cut possible (in the case of resawing, a cut that doesn't require excessive jointing/planing afterwards).
- Oh, and regarding resaw capabilities...so far I'm happy (though again, I have a lot to learn)--using a 1/2" 3 TPI Timbewolf resaw blade, I was able to slice through 8" tall boards of 8' long, 8/4 white ash with good control, relatively minimal effort, and decent results (see the preceding point regarding blade tensioning).

[William Payer]

I have had the 0513X for about 10 years. It is a good, solid machine. Mine has the stamped steel turning, which have performed well for me, but my saw see light hobbies use. The run down time for the blade to stop is quite long, I do wish I opted for the brake. The only problem I have had has been the roller guid bearings needed replacement as they were screaming like Justin Bieber groupie. I replaced all 10 of them from Accurate Bearing ($30-40) and no problems since.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Wow! You guys are making this very hard.
I went from the G0513ANV at $875 w/ free shipping to the G0513X2 at $1095 w/ $99 shipping all on my own.
But after reading all of your posts and reading the write up in this months WOOD magazine, I feel that the foot brake is a definite requirement. The motor brake would be even nicer.
So now I find myself looking at the GF0514X2 at $1575 w/ $99 shipping. I would be upgrading to a 19", 3HP, a Geared Table and the Foot Brake.
But, the G0514X2B at $1725 w/ $99 shipping has all that except the Foot Brake because it has the Motor Brake. This machine is way over what I had budgeted. I keep telling myself that it will last be forever and to find a way to make it happen.

As I am writing this I realize that I have my 14" Bandsaw to sell. May only be worth around $200, but it does help ease the pain.
With $1725 being only $150 more than the $1575, I guess I have made up my mind. Dang I hate spending money :)

317067

[Ryan Mooney]

Wow! You guys are making this very hard.

Welcome to where the slope gets slippery. I went all the way over into considering the high dollar Euro saws before I dialed myself back into the 513 :rolleyes:


So now I find myself looking at the GF0514X2 at $1575 w/ $99 shipping. I would be upgrading to a 19", 3HP, a Geared Table and the Foot Brake.
But, the G0514X2B at $1725 w/ $99 shipping has all that except the Foot Brake because it has the Motor Brake. This machine is way over what I had budgeted. I keep telling myself that it will last be forever and to find a way to make it happen.


I went back and forth with myself on the foot vs motor brake and decided that the motor brake was another electrical thing to break that I wouldn't know how to fix (without just replacing the motor anyway..). Others have pointed out that they're quite reliable and a bit faster but I couldn't personally convince myself that it was worth it (my table saw does have a motor brake and it is indeed quite nice at stopping the blade in a short period of time.. so there's that..). I think? (please cross check me on this) that you also have to take one hand off of the workpiece to hit the switch with the B (that is there is no foot off switch). From a safety perspective I kind of prefer the foot off switch, but that may be just because I do some stupid things..

I suspect that in the end you won't regret the 514 upgrade, as they say cry once...

[Steve Kinnaird]

Will be calling Grizzly next week when I am ready to order and see what advice they can give me.
This is a hobby, not a business....... What's wrong with me
317070

[Prashun Patel]

Yes, Steve. Come to the 514 camp. We've got some icy Kool-Aid waiting for you...

The geared table is NICE. I break logs down into turning blanks and the mass, size and stability of the table and its tilt mechanism is really wonderful.

For the mobile base, I suggest you build a "Michael Heffernen" style base. It consists of 4 lengths of 2x3 tubular steel (you can probably cajole a local ironworks to sell scrap to you) held together with bolts, and 4 Great Lakes locking casters. It's a WONDERFUL, stable base.

I may sound like the Fox who doesn't have his grapes, but I do not miss having a motor brake. I like the foot brake though.

I've coached a couple people on my bandsaw and the foot brake adds a lot of safety when I'm overseeing their work.

[Harold Burrell]

I have owned a G0513X2 for the past several years. It has bee a great saw for me. No problems at all.

I didn't get the brake. Don't miss it at all.

There have been times however, when I wish I had gone the 514 route. Not only for the 2 more inches, but also for the bigger motor. (Not that my 2hp is not enough, mind you...I have just always been a bit of a muscle head.)

[Ryan Mooney]

For the mobile base, I suggest you build a "Michael Heffernen" style base. It consists of 4 lengths of 2x3 tubular steel (you can probably cajole a local ironworks to sell scrap to you) held together with bolts, and 4 Great Lakes locking casters. It's a WONDERFUL, stable base.


+1 to this, easy to make, fantastically stable (its wider than the saw so better than the saw alone unless you bolted it down) and easy to use/lock in place. I used BORG tubing which was only twenty some dollars, the casters are the pricy part.