Lil' help attaching a top...

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I'm building a sideboard, five drawers...two big ones on bottom, 3 smaller on top. As much money as I'm gonna ask for this thing, I feel the need to use dust panels. It occurs to me that if the dust panels are solid, I'm to have quite a time trying to drive a screw up into the top whilst working with my hand 16" inside a 4-3/8" deep hole. :( I'm thinking the only good solution is to make the frames, then put a rabbet in them to accept drop in plywood panels, which I could screw into the rabbet if necessary. Alternative solution is to just screw the top down from the top and plug the holes...but as much as we'd like to think something will last forever, if anybody ever has to work on it, they will curse my name loudly.

Smart ideas appreciated. I won't be checking back until about midnight, so you've gots lots of time to think about it. :D

TIA...KC

[JayStPeter]

How about making the top dust panel removable. Attach top (using low profile or right angle drill), slide dust panels through drawer slots into waiting rabbets and secure. The dust panels could be secured in any number of ways you would use to secure glass to a door.

Edit - oops, I see that is your proposed solution. Well, I like it and should read more thoroughly :o :rolleyes: :cool: .

Another thought is threaded inserts in the top, then a shorty screwdriver or alan wrench to tighten them up (as opposed to having to drive the screw into wood).

Jay

[scott spencer]

If there is a traditional back panel made of something like 1/4" ply, can you slide the dust panels in from the back prior to screwing in the back panel and just let them float in a slot?

A pic might help if you can snap one...

[Roger Myers]

Kirk,

Traditional methods would include inserting the dust panels into their respective frames from the rear of the piece before the rear panel is fastened, but after the top has been installed. The dust panels are free floating in their frames. This can be done in a number of different ways, for example with the drawer blades (the cross member you see from the front) dadoed or dovetailed to the case sides. The sides of the dust panel frames are then mortised into the blades and float in dadoes on the case sides. The dust panel slides into grooves in these frames, and then the case back is installed.
There are other methods as well, including sliding the assembled dust panel and frame into dadoes in the case sides. Generally speaking you do not want to fasten the dust panels over the entire width of the case, unless you are using sheet goods to make the case - solid stock would need to be able to expand/contract over it's width, hence the use of the frame in dado. I think drop in panels would not be the best way to go.

Other approaches may work well too, but this is a method that is traditional and well tested.


Roger

[Lee DeRaud]

Small strategically-placed holes in the top dust panel for the screwdriver to fit through from the next bay down?

[Lee Schierer]

Hey KC on dressers I make, I use the top frame (like a dust panel without the panels) to hold the top to the dresser. I drill holes through the frame before the top goes on. I put screws in each hole. locate the top and tap lightly on the screw heads to dent the wood so I can drill pilot holes. I remove the top drill the pilot holes and then just reach in with either a power driver or regular manual screw driver to drive in the screws once the top is back in place.

The upper frame also helps keep the top square. Of course there is a plywood back on most dressers that can be removed for easier access to teh screws holding on the top.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Thanks for the comments. The back itself is a frame and panel assembly, and locked into the legs...not removable. I'd also considered attaching blocks the underside of the top, then screwing into the sides of the frame...but Lee's suggestion of the frame at the top sounds like a better plan. Now I just need to find a stubby #2 square driver...

Pics soon....

KC

[Norman Hitt]

Thanks for the comments. The back itself is a frame and panel assembly, and locked into the legs...not removable. I'd also considered attaching blocks the underside of the top, then screwing into the sides of the frame...but Lee's suggestion of the frame at the top sounds like a better plan. Now I just need to find a stubby #2 square driver...

Pics soon....

KC

KC, forget the square drive "Stubby". Just use a short square drive tip, (like you would use in a drill/driver), and slip it into a 1/4" drive ratchet wrench with a socket on it that will fit the square drive tip, and it will not only work, but will be easier than trying to use the "Stubby" in that tight area.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

An excellent point, sir! I suspect that'll cut my swearing a great deal.

KC

[Jim Becker]

Um...a driver with a right angle attachment/chuck?? ;) Or the poor-man's version...a stubby screwdriver...??

McFeeley's has stubby square drive drivers...