New Table Saw - Assembly Questions

[Tom Burgess]

I purchased a Delta Unisaw shop saw about eight years ago (tempis fugit) and am only now setting it up. I intend to use this thread to seek advice as I assemble the saw. I don't have the Owner's Manual immediately at hand; hoping to find it among the boxed parts.

Most of the saw has been 'resting' in original boxes out in the garage, but I kept the table and wings in a spare bedroom closet out of harm's way. Recently I purchased a can of Johnson's Paste Wax for protecting the top (per advice gleaned here) and having inspected the three steel table pieces, there are two issues with the main/center segment:

1. There's a round rust spot about 5/16" diameter on the front edge, not on the table surface, but on the side.

Q1. I'd appreciate any suggestion for how to halt the oxidation and clean off the existing rust spot as much as possible


2. SEE PICTURE. There's an area of amber/brown spanning almost half the top surface of the main/center table segment. I think (hope) it's only the remnants of a protective coating. It appears very "brown and ominous" in the photo, but is actually more amber and translucent.

Q2. Is it a protective coating?

Q3. How do I remove it?

I intend to coat shiny surfaces with Johnson's Paste Wax immediately after cleaning the tops, so I want to clean them in a way that will not conflict with the wax application.

Q4. As I understand it, application of Johnson's Paste wax is a simple matter of:
1) wipe the wax on
2) wipe off excess wax
3) buff
Is that all there is to it?


Thanks

316980

[Jeff Ramsey]

1. Steel wool (fine grade, like #0000), then wax it.
2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.
4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.

Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?

[Tom Burgess]

2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.
Exactly. I didn't use the term cosmoline because I know it as a firearms-related term and figured folks here might not be familiar with it.

I don't have kerosene at hand. I have mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, gasoline and Simple Green citrus-based cleaner. Any thoughts? I'm being extra cautious about this due to the bare steel aspect, and because I expect to use this saw for the rest of my days. :D



4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.
I'm sure that tip will come in handy. Thanks.



Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?
Ha! I know! :D It's a long story. In a nutshell, I made a pact with myself not to use the new saw until I sold my first table saw, in use for 30 years: a flex-drive Craftsman with cast iron table and extensions (1-1/16 HP motor, too). It served me amazingly well until the flex-shaft gave up last winter. SEARS is a RIPOFF! They charge $160 for the replacement shaft, and that convinced me to sell my ol' partner to a good home at a very low price - to offset the new owner's high cost for the replacement shaft (sniff).

[glenn bradley]

In sunny southern California I apply the wax with a paper towel or old piece of t-shirt, let is stand for about 10 minutes or until it just starts to fog over and then wipe off. I follow this with a buffing and the surfaces end up slicker than all get-out.

I think a lot of the wax confusion comes from folks who didn't live during the years when we waxed cars with wax ;-) There is a bit of a paradox when using it; if you don't wait long enough, you just wipe the wax right back off . . . if you wait too long it is harder to get off. The gray area is pretty wide but, too soon is just as bad as too late. In my temperature zone the acceptable area for wipe-off is somewhere around 10 to 30 minutes.

[Jeff Ramsey]

Mineral spirits should work, as well.

[Tom Burgess]

There is a bit of a paradox when using it; if you don't wait long enough, you just wipe the wax right back off . . . if you wait too long it is harder to get off. The gray area is pretty wide but, too soon is just as bad as too late.
Thanks, Glenn. The excerpt quoted above sounds a lot like Life in general, don't it? :D heh heh

Where I live, it's been raining almost non-stop for the past two months (?) and on July 8 our high temp is expected to be only about 74 F. Ker-A-zee weather this year. Typically, we'd be suffering with upper 90s and considerable humidity (no complaints from me).

I'll split the difference and figure on 20 minutes before buffing, and will watch carefully for the fogging.


And hey(!), that suitcase in your photo is a still from a Twilight Zone episode set in a bus station, yes? :D

[Tom Burgess]

Mineral spirits should work, as well.
Thanks, Jeff. I'll try mineral spirits first.

[Charles Wiggins]

1. Steel wool (fine grade, like #0000), then wax it.
2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.
4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.

Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?

My responses would be more or less the same, except I use WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad instead of kerosene and steel wool. Both do the same things. The steel wool is probably a bit better at removing the rust, but I always have Scotchbrite pads on hand.
The other thing I would do is clean the kerosene/WD-40 residue off with mineral spirits before waxing.

You want a thin even coat of the paste wax. Let it get cloudy before you wipe off. If the metal is cool to the touch this should not take long. Wiping off the excess is one operation, Buffing is another. At least two coats, but no more than three. Buff it well by hand - no power buffers. Miter slots are the toughest since you can only wipe in two directions. A cloth around a scrap of wood can help get in the corners, or into the profile if your slots are designed to lock the miter gauge in. You'll get a nice slick rust inhibiting surface.

Depending on the amount of use, and atmospheric conditions in your shop you should probably re-wax every four to six months. If you were a daily user it might be prudent to do it more often, but given that your saw has been sitting around for eight years, I am guessing your a more casual user. Even if your shop is really dry and you hardly ever use the saw you should probably do it at least once a year.

[Scott Hearn]

So let me get this straight. You have a brand spanking new Delta Unisaw? Still in the box? *faint*

Mine looks like it's been rode hard and put up wet. But at least I can revel in the fact that they don't have to look new to perform like new. And I used WD40 and a crystolon stone, India stones, granite wrapped with sandpaper and scotchbrite to slick mine up. Then I put on 4 coats of JPW. She's not the prettiest but she runs just fine.

317004

[glenn bradley]

And hey(!), that suitcase in your photo is a still from a Twilight Zone episode set in a bus station, yes? :D

Bingo. You have a sharp eye and a good memory. The episode was titled 'Mirror Image' if memory serves.

[Bruce Page]

Ha! I know! :D It's a long story. In a nutshell, I made a pact with myself not to use the new saw until I sold my first table saw, in use for 30 years: a flex-drive Craftsman with cast iron table and extensions (1-1/16 HP motor, too). It served me amazingly well until the flex-shaft gave up last winter. SEARS is a RIPOFF! They charge $160 for the replacement shaft, and that convinced me to sell my ol' partner to a good home at a very low price - to offset the new owner's high cost for the replacement shaft (sniff).

I bought my Unisaw 16 years ago to replace a Craftsman. I couldn't get the C'man sold and out of my shop quick enough! Once you get the Uni set up and running you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing it sooner.

[Tom Burgess]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that.



So let me get this straight. You have a brand spanking new Delta Unisaw? Still in the box? *faint*

Yours looks fine to me, Scott. In fact, I'd say you've got it seriously 'tricked out' with that router table extension, etc...and I'll bet that INCRA fence is very accurate.


Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?

[Tom Burgess]

Bingo. You have a sharp eye and a good memory. The episode was titled 'Mirror Image' if memory serves.

Very cool, Glenn. And I like your George Orwell quote as well. All the more poignant in this, our current social/political reality (and I use the term loosely).

[Tom Burgess]

I bought my Unisaw 16 years ago to replace a Craftsman. I couldn't get the C'man sold and out of my shop quick enough! Once you get the Uni set up and running you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing it sooner.
So my progression from Craftsman to Delta is not a 'unique tale'. :D That's encouraging. I hear you loud and clear, and I'm sure you're right, but I did some amazing stuff wiff dat ol Crapsman. Yeah, I had to constantly tap the far end of the original fence to get it properly aligned with the blade (yikes :eek:) but Patience is a virtue and Humility is too, right?

That said, see my post #12. I might never 'know of the joy' of this particular Unisaw, after all.

[Charles Wiggins]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

One coat probably would do it in most cases, but I always assume I missed something. I buff each layer. If you have time it's better to wait overnight between applications to give it time to harden more, but I am not sure this makes a huge difference.

[Myk Rian]

I clean the top with alcohol, then slather on the paste wax.
Use a heat gun or hair drier to melt the wax in.
Buff it up.

[Scott Hearn]

Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?


Personally I'd just stay the course you are on and keep it. That's a late model Delta and there is a camp out there that says they weren't the same quality as the old ones and also that Delta's customer service/parts availability isn't very good. Not saying I agree with all that but it does seem it would affect the value and I think there is some merit in that thinking. Some say that the Unifence is the best fence made, others like the Biese. I don't think you'd get enough additional funding out of it to warrant dealing with a lesser saw and you will likely be able to take your woodworking to a whole new level with that cabinet saw. It's a good saw and still on a level above the Chinese/Taiwan imports. Get a couple of good blades (if you don't already have them) and rock on. My twocents...

[Earl McLain]

Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?


I can't speak directly on the value of a particular Unisaw package, but most of my power tools were purchased used. I buy tools to use, not to collect, so a given special package/anniversary/commemorative paint job carries pretty much no value to me, though if that package makes the tool better to use THAT has value to me. Part of the savings in buying used is that I don't get most of the warranty/guarantee/factory support that comes with a "new" tool. If I were looking at yours, I'd view it as "used" since it's not going to carry a warranty, but likely in great LOOKING condition since most of it is still boxed.

I'd actually get a little nervous about the fact that it's never been used (or even unpacked)--a saw that has been used has usually had the manufacturing defects (if any) discovered and corrected. Unused unassembled--I don't know what's bent or out of spec until it's put together and can be put through its paces. I'd expect the belts to have a few memory lumps at a minimum, probably to be replaced pretty quick--at a minimum for repair. In the boxes--it would have to be an excellent bargain for me to take a shot at it--but that's just me talking.

If it were already mine...and money is always an issue...I'd spend several nights looking at prices on CL and the auction site (for both my saw and the possible replacements), mixed in with some time standing in the garage/shop looking at the boxes with my head tilted one way then the other. After a week or two--I'd probably figure that by the time I sell and buy something a few steps down I'd net at most a few hundred dollars--and regret it for 15 or 20 years. Then I'd put the Uni together, with a fresh set of belts, and kick myself for not doing it 8 years sooner!!

My opinions only--your mileage may vary. Good luck!!
earl

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust. I have some thick oil that I purchased at a gun show probably 20 years ago and I put some of that down and then hit the surface with steel wool to remove rust. I could probably do the same with WD-40 and I assumed that was what was meant. You would probably want to clean well after using the WD-40 and before the wax.

[Rod Sheridan]

So my progression from Craftsman to Delta is not a 'unique tale'. :D That's encouraging. I hear you loud and clear, and I'm sure you're right, but I did some amazing stuff wiff dat ol Crapsman. Yeah, I had to constantly tap the far end of the original fence to get it properly aligned with the blade (yikes :eek:) but Patience is a virtue and Humility is too, right?

That said, see my post #12. I might never 'know of the joy' of this particular Unisaw, after all.

Nope, pretty familiar trend, I even owned the same flex drive saw, it was a good machine. Being Canadian I didn't buy a Unisaw, I bought a General 650, now replaced by a Hammer B3...........Have fun with the Unisaw...........Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that.



Yours looks fine to me, Scott. In fact, I'd say you've got it seriously 'tricked out' with that router table extension, etc...and I'll bet that INCRA fence is very accurate.


Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?


Hi Bruce, I like the Unifence much more than the Biesemeyer.

The uni can be used as a multi position fence to improve operator safety, it's a real keeper in my mind...........Regards, Rod.

[Myk Rian]

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust.
No. WD-40 helps PREVENT rust by displacing water. Water Displacer formula #40.
It doesn't do anything to remove rust, except as a lubricant for some dit-wit sanding his table top.

[Tom Burgess]

I clean the top with alcohol, then slather on the paste wax.
Use a heat gun or hair drier to melt the wax in.
Buff it up.
Thanks, Myk. It's fun to read the varying 'recipes' guys employ.

Per your comments, I'll wipe the table parts down will isopropyl alcohol as the last step before my first coat of wax. And I guess I'll apply at least two coats of wax this first time.


QUESTION 1 for Myk
How does using the blow dryer affect or relate to the 'fog stage" that indicates it's time to remove the applied wax?
Are you applying the wax, heating it with the blow dryer right away, and then waiting for the 'fog' to appear in 10 to 30 minutes as usual?


QUESTION 2 for Anyone
Are you guys suggesting I use a fine steel wool (#0000) on the entire top before applying wax, or just that one odd rust spot on the side of the center segment (as mentioned in my post #1)?

Also, I have diamond stones for dressing/truing milling machine surfaces to absolute flatness/smoothness. Do you guys go to those extremes in setting up table saw? Or is that overkill?

[Tom Burgess]

1. Personally I'd just stay the course you are on and keep it.

2. That's a late model Delta and there is a camp that says they weren't the same quality as the old ones, and also that Delta's customer service/parts availability isn't very good [...] it does seem that would affect the value, and I think there is some merit in that thinking.

3. Some say the Unifence is the best fence made.

4. I don't think you'd get enough additional funding out of it to warrant dealing with a lesser saw

5. You will likely be able to take your woodworking to a whole new level with that cabinet saw.

6. It's a good saw and still on a level above the Chinese/Taiwan imports.

7. Get a couple of good blades (if you don't already have them) and rock on.

MUSIC TO MY EARS, SCOTT! :D Thanks for making such an effective argument for KEEPING this saw.

[Tom Burgess]

[...] most of my power tools were purchased used. [...] Part of the savings in buying used is that I don't get most of the warranty/guarantee/factory support that comes with a "new" tool. If I were looking at yours, I'd view it as "used" since it's not going to carry a warranty.

a saw that has been used has usually had the manufacturing defects (if any) discovered and corrected. Unused unassembled--I don't know what's bent or out of spec until it's put together and can be put through its paces. I'd expect the belts to have a few memory lumps at a minimum, probably to be replaced pretty quick--at a minimum for repair.

If it were already mine...after a week or two I'd probably figure that by the time I sell and buy something a few steps down I'd net at most a few hundred dollars--and regret it for 15 or 20 years.

Then I'd put the Uni together, with a fresh set of belts, and kick myself for not doing it 8 years sooner!!

MORE MUSIC TO MY EARS...for the most part. :D Thanks, Earl, though now I'm wondering about the belts and thinking it'd be a lot easier to replace them now, while I have full access before mounting the top to the cabinet... But because money really is a big factor, I'm going to cross my fingers and assume they're fine (gee, I wonder if this decision will come back to haunt me...naw). I'll rotate the blade spindle/shaft by hand (if possible) and then plug in and fire it up before mounting the top. Hopefully the belts will run smoothly. They look perfect, but of course, they've remained in that exact position for nearly a decade...

[Tom Burgess]

Nope, pretty familiar trend, I even owned the same flex drive saw, it was a good machine. Being Canadian I didn't buy a Unisaw, I bought a General 650, now replaced by a Hammer B3
Neat. I used my Craftsman for every kind of project you can think of. Even took it to job sites on occasion. I replaced the awful plastic hand wheels with larger cast metal wheels and everything was fine. Low-power motor and flex-drive imposed cutting capacity limitations and the half-baked fence was a weak point, but never a bit of trouble until the drive end separated from the braided flex shaft. For the record, that occurred 30+ years after purchase and I never once greased the flex shaft.

It never occurred to me until I read on this forum that best practice is to remove the shaft from its housing and re-grease once a year. That revelation came druing my research last winter, after the shaft croaked. I read online comments berating the flex drive, but 30 years of reliable service with zero maintenance speaks very well of that system (sez I).


The Unifence can be used as a multi position fence to improve operator safety, it's a real keeper in my mind. Yes. The extruded fence portion can be attached to the header(?) a couple of different ways, providing either a tall fence or a low fence, and the extrusion can be slid toward or away from the operator to accommodate work pieces of various lengths/sizes. AND...there's a $90 accessory fence that is similar to the Biesmeyer fence (but more versatile) that simply swaps places with the Unifence extruded fence in just a minute or two. Hey, I'm gettin' excited about this now! :D

[Tom Burgess]

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust.
Agreed. I just wanted to point out how WD-40 does not inhibit rust.


You would probably want to clean well after using the WD-40 and before the wax.
Thanks. I think I'll wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol as suggested my Myk Rian above.

[Tom Burgess]

WHAT I KNOW SO FAR:

1. Mineral Spirits removes the cosomline (or whatever surface protectant was used) with no effort at all. 'Wipes it right off.

2. There are some very sharp edges, particularly the underside of the T-slots. Ask me how I know. :mad:

3. CLP and fine emory cloth removed the small rust spot on the edge (the side) of the main section of the top. It left a minor indentation/pit, but it's entirely shiny. No rust there now.

[Tom Burgess]

Below is a picture of my 'modified' Delta mobile base, with extension. I went this route for three reasons:
1) I'm tall, so a 42" table height is not a problem.
2) The concrete garage floor is often damp, and occasionally wet.
3) The concrete floor is rough in some spots, with a couple of wide expansion joints that are tough on rubber wheels.


When I relocate, hopefully I'll have a smooth, dry floor. If so, I'll probably set up the mobile base as designed/intended - but may still raise the saw for a better working height.

TODAY'S ISSUE: I need to lift the saw cabinet onto/into the mobile base. I'm working alone.

See two photos of the cabinet, sans top.

I intend to lift the cabinet off its pallet by means of a 1-ton chain hoist, but am not sure where to run my lifting strap.

1) I could run the strap under the motor/arbor/tilt-elevation carriage, but that's all designed to be supported from below. I think exerting serious upward/lifting force might bend or break a mounting point, or damage one of the mechanisms.

2) See the four tabbed holes at the top of the cabinet. I could pass a bolt through each hole, and then through a length of 2x4 that spans two holes horizontally (so there would be two horizontal 2x4s, each with a bolt passing vertically through each of its two ends). The 2x4s would function as 'handles' similar to suitcase handles. I could route my lifting strap under the two 2x4s and lift carefully. All the weight would be suspended on those four metal tabs, though.
What do you think?

Thanks,
Tom

[Jeff Ramsey]

Tom, why not post your location and put out a call for local Creeker's to help you assemble it? It's only an hour or so of work.

[Tom Burgess]

Tom, why not post your location and put out a call for local Creeker's to help you assemble it? It's only an hour or so of work.
Thanks, Jeff. That sounds like "The WISE Approach", but I'm going to push ahead on my own for a couple of reasons:

1) I'm kinda stupid. :D

2) I've given myself today as the deadline for having this saw functional.

3) SawmillCreek requires me to post under my real name, and while I have no concerns about SMC members, anyone can read these forums and then "stop by" to relieve me of my tools when I'm not at home. I'm reluctant to mention my location on any forum, but especially on a forum where my name can be combined with even my general location. A local guy had his entire commercial shop stolen by thieves who rolled up in a truck one night and left with nearly every bit of capital equipment. So I take security seriously.

Here's my rigging, so far. I think it'll work well because the cabinet+trunnion+motor is heavy, but not ridiculously heavy. 'Probably weighs 250 to 300 pounds, and the if all goes well, it'll be suspended for only a minute or two (fingers crossed, and unbroken so far). If this looks like Disaster Waiting to Happen, somebody tell me now...:eek:

[John Donofrio]

Tom,

If I'm seeing this correctly one thing that concerns me is where you have the hook on the pipe. If the COG of the base assembly is not in the same vertical plane the whole thing could shift once lifted. While it might not be catastrophic, it could damage the cabinet or worse yet, damage you. You need to secure that attachment point (keep from sliding) or better yet attach from multiple points near the perimeter of the base.

Also, C clamps on a round pipe may not be very secure once under load unless the lower jaws of those clamps is a V to capture the pipe.

[Matt Day]

I think Jeff meant posting your city and asking for local creekers to help, not your exact address or GPS coordinates.

Regarding the saw, I grabbed an extension wing for leverage and tilted the saw on one side, slid the base under, and rocked the saw on.

[william watts]

Looks like you are attached to the flanges that hold the table and trunnions in position if the flanges are bent during the left it will cause trouble with alignment. If the c/g of the saw is not centered during the lift the saw will tilt causing more stress on one side. That's the same reason you hear the precaution to "never lift a saw by its table".

[Tom Burgess]

Tom,

If I'm seeing this correctly one thing that concerns me is where you have the hook on the pipe. If the COG of the base assembly is not in the same vertical plane the whole thing could shift once lifted. While it might not be catastrophic, it could damage the cabinet or worse yet, damage you. You need to secure that attachment point (keep from sliding) or better yet attach from multiple points near the perimeter of the base.

Also, C clamps on a round pipe may not be very secure once under load unless the lower jaws of those clamps is a V to capture the pipe.
Thanks for your comments and concerns, John. I think the photograph may be playing "optical tricks" (as is often the case).

Actually, I went ahead with the lift as pictured and it worked just fine. No stress and no "incidents". I studied the cabinet guts prior to designing my Zoot Capri rigging :D and made educated guesses about the motor's location and how much it weighs, and the same for the tilt/elevation arbor hardware. I figured dat big ol' motor is shifted off to the left, so my lifting hook should shift left to compensate. And the weight of the arbor mechanics seemed shifted forward a bit, so I shifted my fancy black pipe forward to compensate. The cabinet lifted almost dead level :eek: :D. When setting it into the mobile base, one corner touched down - then I turned the cabinet slightly and lowered the rest of the way. No problems at all.

If you need to move heavy machinery (even once) do yourself a favor and buy a Harbor Freight chain hoist. I bought my one-ton (or half ton?) lift several years ago for setting up and placing a small milling machine. I got it on sale for $69, I think, and man(!) does it make chores like this easy. Everything can be made to happen in slow motion, and STOP motion, too. The gear reduction makes hundreds of pounds lift and lower like ten pounds. Ultimate control.

As for the C-clamps, they were not clamping the pipe. I tightened the clamps on the 2x3s to limit movement of the black pipe - keeping it from sliding around / changing position relative to the two 2x3s. That worked as planned, too.

Despite my success, all the breakable parts of my body (and the saw) appreciate you voicing helpful concerns and suggestions. :D

[Tom Burgess]

I think Jeff meant posting your city and asking for local creekers to help, not your exact address or GPS coordinates. I live where there aren't so many people. My general whereabouts combined with my first and last names could bring trouble right to my front door. Take heed.


Regarding the saw, I grabbed an extension wing for leverage and tilted the saw on one side, slid the base under, and rocked the saw on.
Yer probably braver, smarter and/or stronger than I am. :D My 'modifications' raised the mobile base a LOT (more than I like, actually) so I don't think I could have done what you did. I'll live with the base as is until I relocate (soon I hope). And my 6-wheeled configuration doesn't steer well, either. Like navigating a tiny harbor in an ocean liner. It'll do for now.

[Tom Burgess]

Looks like you are attached to the flanges that hold the table and trunnions in position if the flanges are bent during the left it will cause trouble with alignment. If the c/g of the saw is not centered during the lift the saw will tilt causing more stress on one side. That's the same reason you hear the precaution to "never lift a saw by its table".
I hear you, Bill. Good points, but the chain hoist made everything so smooth and controlled that the lifting and lowering were absolutely no-strain and no-impact. No damage done.

[Tom Burgess]

Why I'll ASSEMBLE IMMEDIATELY from now on...ugh

So far, the triple pulley that transmits power to the arbor is surprisingly rusted, though no part of this saw has ever gotten wet. Weird.

The table insert is a joke. It's a rough casting that is far from flat. No matter how I adjust the four leveling screws, it won't run true to the table surface. See attached photo for the extent to which the right-front corner must be lowered in order to stop the part from rocking - and I need to lower it a bit further than this. Sux.

Are there 3rd-party table inserts I can buy to fit a 10-year-old Unisaw? The 'Deltoid' said my only option is to buy a Delta replacement. Forget that...

Most of the castings look terrible; I've seen far better on Griz products. The Delta "customer service" rep (and I use the term loosely) says Delta saws like mine (2005 vintage) were made entirely in the USA. I don't think so. He says Delta began manufacturing in China in 2013. I think that's wrong. Maybe the began assembling in China in 2013, but I'm 98% sure these 2005 castings are fugly Chinese Crap.

[cody michael]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic

[John Donofrio]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic

This. BB works best IMO.

[Bruce Page]

Google left tilt Unisaw throat plate. Several places sell them.

Here's one: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/zero-clearancethroatplate.aspx

[Tom Burgess]

I made my a insert out of plywood, pretty easy and worked well... you can also use plastic


This. BB works best IMO.
Thanks, Cody and John ==
BB = Baltic Birch, yes?. No gots, but I'm sure I have something laying around. What about adjustment screws. Are you guys installing small threaded inserts? Or T-nuts? Or something more exotic that I don't know about...?

Or no adjustment at all?



Google left tilt Unisaw throat plate. Several places sell them.
Here's one: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/zero-clearancethroatplate.aspx
I'm not familiar with the term 'throat plate'. Knowing that will help me search online. Thanks, Bruce, and thanks for the link. I don't see my saw model listed at that link (model 36-L31X), but as you mentioned, the DL-1U is supposed to fit "Delta: Unisaw"... The Customer Service Deltoid said that all late-model Unisaws are entirely different from mine. Hmm. Too late to talk with Highland Woodworking today, but will call tomorrow.

I copied the following from your post:
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder." -- Steven Wright
My brake master cylinder is failing, so when I see the mechanic I'll make "the horn suggestion", and will try to look very serious about it. HA! :D He'll like that.

[Charles Taylor]

Thanks, Cody and John ==
BB = Baltic Birch, yes?. No gots, but I'm sure I have something laying around. What about adjustment screws. Are you guys installing small threaded inserts? Or T-nuts? Or something more exotic that I don't know about...?

Or no adjustment at all?


Short wood screws are what I usually have handy when I make a throat plate, so I drill, countersink, and install them on the underside. Others use set screws so they can adjust them from above, which is more convenient.



I'm not familiar with the term 'throat plate'. Knowing that will help me search online. Thanks, Bruce, and thanks for the link. I don't see my saw model listed at that link (model 36-L31X), but as you mentioned, the DK-1U is supposed to fit "Delta: Unisaw"... But HEY! :eek: The Customer Service Deltoid said that all late-model Unisaws are entirely different from mine. Gee, do ya think he could be mistaken (or even...lying)? Too late to talk with Highland Woodworking today, but will call tomorrow.

DL-6 and DL-7 are for the "late model" Unisaws. DL-1U is for yours and mine (an older right-tilt).

[Tom Burgess]

When I bought this saw package, I was buying "50 inches of rip capacity to the right".

Even though the instructions don't seem to indicate it, I think maybe I need to remove the right-hand cast iron table extension.

As things stand, the overall width of the three cast iron tops plus the laminated Biesemeyer U50 table extension is a whopping 84-1/4 inches. The whole rig seems awfully LONG. The Biesemeyer extension table is 44" from left to right. I'm using the Delta Unifence (not the Bies) and that extruded aluminum fence rail measures 81-1/4".

I'm not pleased with several aspects of this saw package. It was sold to me as a unified, integrated tool, but clearly there are four separate products combined (loosely) to form this configuration. For example, look carefully at the picture to see that the feet of the extension table's support legs would not come anywhere close to resting on the Delta mobile base's narrow extension frame. In fact, if not for my cheesy wooden outriggers (for casters), I would have to mount the two gray Biesemeyer support legs way, way IN from the front and rear edges of the support table - and that would render the table unstable for cutting sheet goods.

When I bought this saw there had been a lot of talk about Delta quality taking a dive. Clearly Delta earned that reputation, but by the time I get through, I'm sure this thing'll be Shmoove as Glass.

So do I need to remove the right-hand cast iron table wing and instead attach the laminated extension directly to the main table? :confused: Duuuhhhh

[Tom Burgess]

Short wood screws are what I usually have handy when I make a throat plate, so I drill, countersink, and install them on the underside. Others use set screws so they can adjust them from above, which is more convenient.
Thanks, Chuck. Adjusting the "throat plate" (my expanding vocabulary) from above is a lot easier, but needs doing only once, so wood screws from underneath will work. On the other hand, If using set screws from above, does that require a threaded insert for each screw?


DL-6 and DL-7 are for the "late model" Unisaws. DL-1U is for yours and mine (an older right-tilt).
Very helpful. Thanks. My saw tilts LEFT. I'll double check will Highland Woodworking tomorrow.

[Charles Taylor]

Thanks, Chuck. Adjusting the "throat plate" (my expanding vocabulary) from above is a lot easier, but needs doing only once, so wood screws from underneath will work. On the other hand, If using set screws from above, does that require a threaded insert for each screw?

I don't think so. Drill your holes to be snug enough, and the ply should hold the screws fine.



DL-6 and DL-7 are for the "late model" Unisaws. DL-1U is for yours and mine (an older right-tilt).

Very helpful. Thanks. My saw tilts LEFT. I'll double check will Highland Woodworking tomorrow.

It should be the same for both, but get Highland's word for it.

[Tom Burgess]

Thanks for that additional information, Chuck.

[John Donofrio]

Thanks, Cody and John ==
BB = Baltic Birch, yes?. No gots, but I'm sure I have something laying around. What about adjustment screws. Are you guys installing small threaded inserts? Or T-nuts? Or something more exotic that I don't know about...?

Or no adjustment at all?


I use threaded inserts alone as the adjustment mechanism.

[Tom Burgess]

I use threaded inserts alone as the adjustment mechanism.

HA! That's clever! :D The outside threads are incredibly course, but having installed lots of them, I see how it could work. Once started, they do turn smoothly - and I base that on using only larger sizes, for 1/4" and 3/8" bolts.

What size insert do you recommend for this, John?

[Tom Burgess]

No response to my first question about this, so here's a second attempt.

I've been looking through photos HERE (https://www.google.com/search?q=delta+unisaw&biw=1216&bih=788&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI0-aa17vxxgIVh9g-Ch1lBAC9). Some Unisaws appear to match the surprisingly long table configuration I have. Also, my printed assembly instructions include a Special section on how to attach the Biesemeyer laminated table to a Unisaw that does not have a right-side cast iron extension, which suggests the norm is to have the right-side extension attached...

See image below. I set the extruded fence rail atop the saw and it all seems about right. The rail is set in the suggested location (left to right) and the fence carriage is at the 50" location.

MATH: The right-side steel extension is 10" wide. The underside of the Bies table has a cross support at its right end, and another support 10" to the left of that. So I'm thinking I can probably set this up with the steel right-side extension, or without it for an overall table width that is 10" less wide. If I choose the smaller option, the fence rail will likely stick out about 10" to the right.

HELP ME CLARIFY MY THINKING :confused:: Whether I have 64" of table to the right of the blade or just 54", I can only rip to 50", so the additional 10" of table surface appears to be of NO benefit. Why: Imagine ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood crossways at 50". That puts 50" to the right of the blade - fully supported by either 54" of table or 64" of table (the rightmost 14" of table supports nothing). The other 46" of plywood is to the left of the blade (supported by 20" of steel table). The extra space at the right end of the table has no effect...

AM I RIGHT? Or am I missing something here. It occurs to me that the extruded fence rail could be loosened, slid 10 inches to the right and re-tightened for a special operation requiring 60" of rip capacity. That would be an advantage...

I appreciate every bit of table surface I can get (you wouldn't believe the crazy setups I used in the past with my Craftsman saw :D), but in it's present configuration this saw is nearly the same size as my car :eek:. 'Good thing I have a two-car garage.

Your thoughts are welcome and much appreciated.

[John Donofrio]

What size insert do you recommend for this, John?

They're smaller inserts. I believe ones that accept either a #8 or #6 but I'm not in the shop to verify. Probably the smaller of the two but any reasonable size would work. What I like is that they do not move once set whereas a screw through the insert might easily twist out of position.

[John Donofrio]

I would definitely keep the right cast extension wing simply for the mass it adds to the saw. If you prefer less width modify the laminated table to suit instead.

[Tom Burgess]

I would definitely keep the right cast extension wing simply for the mass it adds to the saw. If you prefer less width modify the laminated table to suit instead.
Thanks, John. You're the only one to venture and opinion, and I agree with yours. I'm sure there'll come a time when I'm very glad to have that extra 10 inches of table width.

[Tom Burgess]

The Biesemeyer laminated extension table has two metal legs constructed of square tubing. A threaded receptacle gets jammed into the bottom end of each square leg (see image below). I'll be making adjustments to my Unisaw setup/configuration later, and might need to shorten the legs a bit.

The threaded receptacle has a spring steel component (black 6-sided) that retains the receptacle within the square-tubing leg.

QUESTION: Is there a reliable way to PULL THAT RECEPTACLE OUT later if I need to shorten the legs?

[Phil Thien]

The Biesemeyer laminated extension table has two metal legs constructed of square tubing. A threaded receptacle gets jammed into the bottom end of each square leg (see image below). I'll be making adjustments to my Unisaw setup/configuration later, and might need to shorten the legs a bit.

The threaded receptacle has a spring steel component (black 6-sided) that retains the receptacle within the square-tubing leg.

QUESTION: Is there a reliable way to PULL THAT RECEPTACLE OUT later if I need to shorten the legs?

That type, not without a fight. Typically have to bang them out from the other end of the tube with a long dowel.

But you can order new ones (go to McMaster and search for "threaded tube adapter") to see if they have replacements that will fit your tube size. If so, you can replace them.

[Tom Burgess]

Thanks, Phil, for the insight and for the McMaster/Carr search suggestion.

I was thinking about the possibility of banging out the threaded adapters from the top end of the leg using a length of metal conduit having a diameter that just barely fits inside the leg's square tubing (IF that diameter exists). My thinking: Exerting downward pressure (mallet blows) against the ends of those six spring steel prongs would bend them momentarily, causing them to release their grip...(maybe).
[EDIT: Scratch that idea. There's a mounting plate welded atop each leg, so no access from driving the threaded adapter out from above.]

Frankly, I think I may have to shorten the leg tubes NOW, just to get the current setup to work.

This setup is taking FOREVER due to 1) my lack of experience and 2) the loose match-up among some components (and printed instructions that aren't entirely clear).