Making drawer boxes

[Scott Brandstetter]

Would appreciate any tips on making these boxes quicker and easier. I made a jig to put the boxes in to make sure they are square but with the dry time, still makes it a long process to get 6 boxes done in short order. I currently use a half blind joint for production speed, and happy with the results, but, glue up and dry is too long.

appreciate any help.

[Joe O'Connor]

With tight fitting dovetails I only use clamps when necessary, check for square by cross measuring and set aside. If I use clamps I find I can remove them after 15 minutes or so.

[Lee Schierer]

I agree. If your joints are tight and the sides aren't warped or bowed, 15 minutes in the clamps is long enough. Just be sure when you remove the clamps that the box stays square.

[glenn bradley]

+1, on things like drawer boxes I clamp for 30 minutes with Titebond, remove clamps and set aside. I stack drawer boxes out of the way on a level surface and use the clamps on the next ones.

[Jeff Ramsey]

I only clamp cauls against the tails, not the pins (it's not needed if the pins are cut properly). I have enough cauls made up, with bar clamps, so I can make 6 at a time (if I need to make that many). I square up after clamping. Max 30 mins in clamps should be enough, then stack them aside for a full dry.

[Jim Becker]

I use parallel clamps and measure corner to corner to insure they are square. As already noted, they don't need to remain clamped for long periods...only during the required initial glue setup. Just be sure to set them aside carefully for the full cure without knocking them out of square through brute force. ;) This is regardless of construction method, BTW...it works for dovetails, pocket screws, butt joints, whatever. A closely fitted bottom helps in that respect.

[Erik Christensen]

like the others I leave boxes clamped 20-30 minutes, I write the "done" time on blue tape when they go in the clamps. I have found that by the time I assemble the parts for the next drawer, do a final test fit, inspect for an surface defects that need more sanding/scraping, apply glue, clamp, check for square - then move on to the next one..... that by the time I run out of clamps the 1st box is done and clamps can be recycled. only time I have to wait is for a run of really big drawers so only some of my clamps are usable

sounds like you need more clamps - ya can't have too many

[Roy Harding]

I rarely clamp anything (including panels) longer than 45 minutes. I use chalk on the piece to record the time it was clamped (habit instilled in me by an old German fine furniture instructor).

As others have stated - don't jar the assembly and knock it out of square after taking it out of the clamps.

When making boxes or drawers, my method is similar to everybody else's here - and I'm in agreement with Erik - sounds like you need more clamps.

[Peter Quinn]

We make lots of half blind dovetailed boxes, rarely clamp them at all. We use a 24" auto dovetailer, mills all the tails and pins for one box in about 60 seconds. Sometimes on a really tall drawer the parts tend to want to curl as they sit, so those may take a little help for a clamp to close up. All the strength comes from the pressure created when you tap the joint home, and if they fit properly you do have to tap them home with a dead blow after applying glue. Short of an automated case clamp, a pneumatic glue injector and an RF dryer I can't see how the small shop can go any faster. Make them well, knock them together, move on to something else while they dry. Make the fit snug, cut the parts square so the boxes are basically self squaring, solves most of the problem.

[Jeff Duncan]

So I'll take it one step further and say you don't need to clamp your drawer boxes at all! I used to myself, and then it hit me one day while I was making them….what am I actually clamping? If you clamp across the sides your actually only clamping long grain to end grain…..which is next to useless for a structural joint. The strength in terms of glue on a half blind dovetail is on the long grain contact between pins and tails. If you look at the joint next time you'll see this part cannot be clamped. So you really cannot clamp a half blind dovetail joint for any structural strength. The only thing clamping can do is pull the sides into the front/back. If the joint is cut well then once it's pulled together it's done. Put it aside until the glue dries. Personally I just use a dead blow to tap them into place then stack them.

I had to run a set of 4 small maple boxes today for a project. Probably took me about 2-3 hours from when I first started milling the rough stock to placing the boxes on a cart to dry. I let them dry overnight and tomorrow I'll sand and into the spray booth they go:D

good luck,
JeffD