Getting a high gloss finish on things you can't finish on the lathe

[Scott Brandstetter]

I have been working really hard on my finish skills, scraper before sanding, sanding will all of the right grits, etc. Sometimes though, I get a piece that I just can't finish on the lathe for whatever reason and wonder, how do you get I high gloss finish without using the friction method while turning on the lathe. I have tried sprayed poly's, and they work okay, but not like a friction polish.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated.

[Roger Chandler]

Wipe-on-poly, a.k.a. ----WOP

[Mike Nathal]

With enough coats, both lacquer and WOP will do it. A guy in my club uses at least 10 coats of rattle-can lacquer, and his pieces are fantastic. I have used brushing lacquer with good results, but feel WOP is a little easier to apply smoothly. Some sanding between coats is needed. And don't forget buffing. Wait until the finish is fully cured, and then buff. I use the Beall system, all three wheels.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I use wipe-on poly and then buff it once it has cured.

[Wes Ramsey]

I use a version of a method I read about here. I paint on between 4 and 6 coats of 4-1 thinned lacquer, then sand to remove any lacquer that isn't where you want it (drips, runs, etc). Then I spray several coats of rattle can lacquer. If I get any obvious runs or goofs I will sand between coats. After the last coat I will do a light sand with 400 grit. If there are any imperfections in the finish they will show up easily and you can fix them. If I have to sand very deep I will spray another coat or two for good measure and sand again. You can sand to whatever grit you desire, but I stop at 400 and buff it out with the Beall buff. The tripoli wheel will flow out the lacquer and make a really nice, shiny finish, and the WD wheel gets me as close to that wet-looking finish as I've been able to get. Sometimes I will use the wax wheel with Minwax paste wax, but I usually skip that step. It doesn't seem to add anything.

For me this method is very forgiving and very rewarding. It is also pretty fast - in the summer I can sand 10-15 minutes after a coat. I haven't used WOP so I can't compare ease of use or quality of finish, but I'm really happy with this method.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

What are you finishing? Small items I do CA finish. Fast. Short learning curve to get a glass smoooth finish.
For bigger items, as mentioned oil finishes or lacquers. Sanding between every 2 coats. I usually end up with 8 - 10 coats and buff.

[Thomas Canfield]

I finish all my pieces off the lathe using a modified Danish oil. I do use a buffing wheel on shaft extension on lathe to buff with Tripoli usually prior to first coat wiped on and then off, and before every following coat (usually 3 to 5) with a final Tripoli buff, followed by application of Renaissance wax and soft buff. A big factor is getting the coats dry before doing the buffing and not rushing the finish. You can add a white diamond buff before the final wax if you want a higher shine, but I prefer the softer look.

[robert baccus]

One easy method on the lathe all the way. Sand to 220, 2 coats of a heavy bodied SS (filler), sand to 220. Spray 2 coats of Precatalized lacquer(used unthinned), wet sand with soapy sponges -220. Compound with rag and auto compounds (liquid). Maybe 2 hours. Gloss may be adjusted with various grits of compounds.

[Stan Smith]

I've been surprised with W O P. I bought a can of gloss and a can of satin. I usually apply 4 coats of satin and sand between coats with the white synthetic wool. This has given me the degree of gloss that appeals to me (ymmv). Sometimes I might use the gloss as a 2nd or 3rd coat, but not often. I just wipe it on with a blue paper shop towel. I put the towel outside to dry over night before I put it in the garbage. For me wop works great.

[Jeff Ford]

I've been surprised with W O P. I bought a can of gloss and a can of satin. I usually apply 4 coats of satin and sand between coats with the white synthetic wool. This has given me the degree of gloss that appeals to me (ymmv). Sometimes I might use the gloss as a 2nd or 3rd coat, but not often. I just wipe it on with a blue paper shop towel. I put the towel outside to dry over night before I put it in the garbage. For me wop works great.

As others have said multiple coats of WOP with light sanding between some of the coats. I often dilute it 2:1 with mineral spirits. One trick learned from an old timer is to do the final buff with a grocery paper bag.

[Stan Smith]

For pens, I've been using a 1:1 Deft Gloss/Laq, thinner mix. Have you tried your mix with the project on the lathe?

Apologies to OP for asking on this thread.

[Robert Henrickson]

As others have said multiple coats of WOP with light sanding between some of the coats. I often dilute it 2:1 with mineral spirits. One trick learned from an old timer is to do the final buff with a grocery paper bag.

I learned the brown paper bag trick from the guy who taught me to make Shaker boxes.

[Jeff Ford]

I learned the brown paper bag trick from the guy who taught me to make Shaker boxes.


That's where I learned it. John Wilson is a really interesting guy. Works like a charm