Doweling Jig Help

[Jebediah Eckert]

I was wondering if anyone can simplify this for me?

I have a bunch of picture frames to make (gifts) with a butt joint. The stock is anywhere from 1 1/2" to 2" wide and 3/4" to 5/4" thick. Initially I was going to use two pocket holes but that didn't go too well. Between the wood splitting, twisting, and not grabbing flush I gave up with that.

Searching on SMC it seems dowels or dominos would be the best. I really don't want to buy a Domino because of cost. Also it seems there is a learning curve and harder to use on smaller stock. Whatever I get I'm sure I will start using in future products but it is a huge price difference for the two.

Researching doweling jigs on SMC it seems the Jessem (others as well) rates well and is easy to use. You can get the current Jessem doweling jig for $149 for the basic kit. This only allows for 3/8" dowels but I think that would be fine for now. I started getting confused on the older SMC threads. People start referring to the "old" one, the "new", the one with the clamp, don't buy this on buy this version etc. etc. After all this I'm not sure when models and versions changed and which is available now.

I guess I'm looking for two things-

1 - Is doweling a good option for what my immediate needs are (the frames)?

2 - What doweling jig is the right one to get for this project?

thanks for looking.

[Lee Schierer]

Have you considered lap joints. They are pretty easy to do on a TS and are stronger than a doweled butt joint.

[Prashun Patel]

The 'old' one is also called the Paralign. It's the Deluxe model. The clamp is integrated, and it comes with an indexing bar, and other bells and whistles.

The 'new' one is just called the Jessem Dowel Jig. It's about $130-$150 on-line. This is the one I own. You have to use your own clamps on it. While it does not contain the indexing bar, it does contain bench-dog-looking dowel pin that you can use to drill a long row of parallel holes. This jig works entirely as advertised. I think it's wonderful

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks

I have tried a lap joint. That is how I originally made one but found it time consuming to dial it in. Also I wasn't happy with that "batwings" visible in the joint from the side when using the dado stack or even a tenoning jig. I can live with that but it's a lot of extra setup. I could buy a flat ground blade but haven't as of yet. There is a decorative piece in the corner which adds to the setup.

Prashun- have you used it on narrow pieces like I described?

I would think a dowel would be plenty strong for a picture frame? Especially based on other applications I have seen others use dowels on. I'm sure a lap joint is stronger no doubt, but for a picture frame (maybe 2' x 3') a dowel I think would suffice?

[Prashun Patel]

The Jessem jig comes with 3/8" dowel bushings. They are well-suited for 3/4-5/4 stock. I have used it on 3/4" plywood - which is actually thinner than 3/4".

[Matt Day]

Have you looked at the very simple sub $20 dowel jigs from Rockler?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-8-dowel-drilling-jig-kit
I have a paralign and love it but it's an investment.

[Cary Falk]

Have you looked at the very simple sub $20 dowel jigs from Rockler?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-8-dowel-drilling-jig-kit
I have a paralign and love it but it's an investment.

I have that dowel jig in the bottom of a drawer somewhere. It would always move when I tried to clamp it down. The plastic broke and off to the junk drawer it went. I also have the Paralign and love it.

[Al Launier]

I have this one & it has served me well. There are more of these available at lesser cost, i.e. eBay.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks for the input.

Al - which one do you have the $20 or the jessem?

Is the consensus doweling should be plenty strong for a regular 3'x2' frame?

[Cary Falk]

I use biscuits on miter corners for frames that size. I have never had an issue. Dowels should be plenty strong.

[Mark Blatter]

I use biscuits on miter corners for frames that size. I have never had an issue. Dowels should be plenty strong.

+1

As I was reading through the posts, this is just what I was thinking. Miter the corners, then use biscuits. Should be plenty strong and pretty easy to do, provided you have a chop saw.

[Charles Lent]

I would go with either small biscuits or splines. They are both well suited for making picture frames.

Charley

[Jebediah Eckert]

I guess I could somehow spline the butt joint but I'm not sure how? The design of the frame does not lend itself to a mitered corner. For me I would have better luck staying square with butt joints then a miter. With the design of the frame the butt joint won't really show anyhow. That's why I figured the dowel would strengthen it enough and be easy to make. I do have a biscuit joiner but it never lines up quite right and using it on narrow stock is even more of a challenge.

Some other picture frames I have done for gifts have been miter corners with splines. That definitely works well, is easy to do, and plenty strong.

Thanks for for all the input.

[Art Mann]

I will offer an alternative to the Jessem products. The device is called a Dowelmax and here is the web page: http://www.dowelmax.com/ I haven't used either Jessem jig so I can't say how they compare. I have used the Dowelmax for many years. It is expensive but it is a truly precision made jig and is very versatile and easy to use. Prior to owning the Dowelmax, I used quite a few cheaper jigs and found all of them to be unsatisfactory. I had abandoned dowel joinery because it was just not precise enough so that everything always fit perfectly. I took a chance on the Dowelmax as an alternative to the Festool Domino and now I use it for most of my joinery where pocket screws are not appropriate. It is worth watching the videos from the website. That will give you a good idea as to whether it might suit your needs.

[Von Bickley]

The 'new' one is just called the Jessem Dowel Jig. It's about $130-$150 on-line. This is the one I own. You have to use your own clamps on it. While it does not contain the indexing bar, it does contain bench-dog-looking dowel pin that you can use to drill a long row of parallel holes. This jig works entirely as advertised. I think it's wonderful

This is the one that I have and I would buy it again. It should work fine for your project and you get a new tool.

[Allan Speers]

I would go with either small biscuits or splines. They are both well suited for making picture frames.

Charley


I've made a few dozen frame that size & larger, and always use splines. I put them in while the frame is still in my angles clamps, and I haven't had a problem yet. For that size, you could also just use framer's brads. (Basically, metal splines, except you don't glue them) Splines are classier, though.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I've made a few dozen frame that size & larger, and always use splines. I put them in while the frame is still in my angles clamps, and I haven't had a problem yet. For that size, you could also just use framer's brads. (Basically, metal splines, except you don't glue them) Splines are classier, though.

I am going to use dowels on this one and plan to buy the Jessem jig.

After two two people suggesting splines I'm having trouble picturing that. How would you go about putting splines in a butt joint? It seems like cutting the slot on those small pieces, one of them would have to be a stopped slot, would be a challenge. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong. Splined miters I've done and understand. A spline in a butt joint I'm not so sure about.

[Phil Thien]

I am going to use dowels on this one and plan to buy the Jessem jig.

After two two people suggesting splines I'm having trouble picturing that. How would you go about putting splines in a butt joint? It seems like cutting the slot on those small pieces, one of them would have to be a stopped slot, would be a challenge. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong. Splined miters I've done and understand. A spline in a butt joint I'm not so sure about.

I think he may have missed the butt-joint aspect and was figuring miters.

And even with miters, a good dowel jig is going to make assembly a joy vs. a PITA. That is because a good dowel jig will keep alignment so precise that it is really just a matter of putting glue on everything and pushing them together, and adding some clamps. The parts won't wiggle around or anything, like they do with splines/biscuits.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks Phil, that's what I'm hoping for.

[Prashun Patel]

Jeb-
When you get the jig, you'll get the most precise results on these parts by using the index pin to reference off the two joints' sides instead of relying on a penciled 'tick' mark across the joint. When it arrives and if you need more info, LMK. I think Phil discovered this at the same time I did a month or two back...

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I have the "newer" jessem dowel jig and really like it. I just recently got it and was only able to use it once on my last project but from what I've experience so far it is easy to use and lines up perfect. I plan to use it again on my next project which is a small long table that will go behind my sofa. I will use it to help align the boards when I make the table top and feel the added strength will be a plus.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I ordered the Jessem Master Doweling kit from Lee Valley for $189. That is the cheapest I could find. I was going to start with the basic kit using only 3/8" dowels but I figured I may regret that later. For $70 more it came with 1/4" and 1/2". My next project that I hope to get to joins two large live edge walnut slabs together. I figured I may as well dowel it now and 1/2" would be the right size for that.

thanks for all the input.

[Von Bickley]

I ordered the Jessem Master Doweling kit from Lee Valley for $189. That is the cheapest I could find. I was going to start with the basic kit using only 3/8" dowels but I figured I may regret that later. For $70 more it came with 1/4" and 1/2". My next project that I hope to get to joins two large live edge walnut slabs together. I figured I may as well dowel it now and 1/2" would be the right size for that.

thanks for all the input.

Jebediah,

I did the same thing and I use the Kreg Automaxx Clamp with mine.

[Phil Thien]

Jebediah,

I did the same thing and I use the Kreg Automaxx Clamp with mine.

I am not a big fan of that clamp with the Jessem jig, the pads are just too big. I found this one actually works better (and is cheaper):

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-18/dp/B00004SBBN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436392201&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+locking+clamp

I covered the clamping pads with felt, so as not to mar the jig (I take very good car of my stuff).

The reality is that if I'm using one of the aluminum dowels to "find" my edge, I can pretty much hold the jig with my hand, maybe use a spring clamp for a little more holding power.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks, I happen to have the Kreg clamp, I'm going to give that a try. That vise grip clamp sure looks solid though for $10.

[Al Launier]

Oops! Sorry, looks like I forgot to include the make.

It's a Craftsman (9-4186) that I bought new from Sears "Roebuck" 35-40 years ago.

I just found this "vintage" jig on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-CRAFTSMAN-DOWELING-JIG-9-4186-/161747215125).

General also makes this (http://www.houzz.com/promo/30811999?m_refid=PLA_HZ_30811999&device=c&nw=g&gclid=CPu5zMP80sYCFcESHwodwqAMjQ).

[Cary Falk]

Oops! Sorry, looks like I forgot to include the make.

It's a Craftsman (9-4186) that I bought new from Sears "Roebuck" 35-40 years ago.

I just found this "vintage" jig on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-CRAFTSMAN-DOWELING-JIG-9-4186-/161747215125).

General also makes this (http://www.houzz.com/promo/30811999?m_refid=PLA_HZ_30811999&device=c&nw=g&gclid=CPu5zMP80sYCFcESHwodwqAMjQ).


I had the General branded one and hated it. It wasn't very accurate at all.