Cleaning Hand Stitched Rasps

[Julie Moriarty]

I have two Auriou rasps I used to shape some Gabon ebony. Now many of the stitches are clogged with ebony. With most woods, I can tap the tool on the bench or take a stiff brush and that clears the waste out. But not with this wood. How do you clean out the stitches without clearing each one individually?

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

A little trick I learned working in a mechanic shop in high school was to take a spent bullet casing (if you happen to have any laying around...I guess that isn't normal for some people, though...) and pinch the end flat. It's like a little scraper. We'd use them to clean tough pieces of metal out of files so I don't see why it wouldn't work on a rasp. In lieu of a bullet case you could use a thin copper or brass pipe. Really anything softer than the steel of the rasp, and the softer the better probably.

[Brian Holcombe]

I use a hard bristle brush.

[Paul Saffold]

Not for routine cleaning but a pressure washer or old electric toothbrush. Think outside the neander toolbox.

[Julie Moriarty]

No bullets lying around the house. Brushes don't work, even a brass brush didn't work, but I didn't work it too much for fear of ruining the cutting action.

I was wondering if pitch cleaner would work and not ruin the metal. So far the only thing that's worked is the tip of an X-Acto knife. End even that takes some work to get all the waste out of the stitches. It's in there pretty good.

[Brian Holcombe]

A hog brush works ..I know because I use one and I've cut rosewoods and ebonies with my rasps.

https://store-dd025.mybigcommerce.com/content/files/Use-and-Care-Instructions-for-your-Rasp-or-Riffler.pdf

I have tried other brushes that did not work as well, try the hog bristle brush.

[Julie Moriarty]

I contacted Auriou and here's their response:

Soak it in a light oil to expand the wood and gently brush with a natural brush (i.e not metal) and this should dislodge the embedden bits.

As a general rule a light application of camelia oil or such like will help protect the rasps.

I've been picking away with the tip of a pin. The wood is really in there. Before I got the response from Auriou I wetted a brush with mineral spirits and that removed some of the chips and made picking the most of the rest out easier but there are some places I can't clean out completely. I'll give the Auriou method a try...

[Brian Holcombe]

Julie,

You might try a file card, but just to get out the really tough stuff, not on a regular basis. Do you clean your rasps after every use?

[David Ragan]

I have had the same issue. with walnut. have wondered if what I see in there is walnut or rust.

Guess its time to get out some of the terrific magnification stuff in the shop and look. I do like Michel's idea of soaking in light oil, then using a soft tooth brush.

[Dave Anderson NH]

One very helpful way of reducing or preventing bits of wood from sticking in the teeth is to use regular white chalk and rub it against the grain before each use. The little bit of chalk dust it leaves in each concave depression helps reduce the ability of the wood to stick in the holes. Afterwards just brush as usual immediately with a stiff bristle brush. I will remember the Auriou trick though for when I forget to chalk up.

[Julie Moriarty]

Do you clean your rasps after every use?
When I'm working, I give the rasp a light tap on the workbench and that cleans it up pretty well. Then after use I'll brush it off. But the ebony did a number on the rasps. Next time, I'll try the chalk method.

[Richard Verwoest]

Couldn't you just use a MAPP torch to burn the particles out?

Richard

[Patrick McCarthy]

Couldn't you just use a MAPP torch to burn the particles out?

Richard

in one of the shaving threads there was much discussion how hot water can negatively impact the sharpness of the razor's edge . . . . . . can't imagine the heat from any torch is going to be beneficial to the $$$ rasps . . . . I am not a metallurgist, but just sayin' . . . it doesn't seem like the most prudent of choices.

That being said, let's try it on your hand stitched rasps first, as a test, of course.

[george wilson]

I am sure you know better than to use a torch on your rasp,Julie!!!!:):):)

I'd like to advise you to not buy any expensive hand made rasps made I THINK in Chezscholovikia(SP?) from Luthier's Merchantile. Though they tout them as "lifetime" quality(maybe they meant for the lifetime of a house fly!),and price them high,the one I bought was not hardened AT ALL. I think I paid about $50.00,and it was only about 6" long and 3/4" wide. Actually for its size,more expensive than yours. I liked the tiny teeth,so I put it in my electric furnace and case hardened it myself,rather than send it back.

I told them it was not hardened,but I'm sure they paid no attention. A pricey German made chisel from them was no great shakes either. I don't think anyone there knows anything about tool quality,or cares to learn.

[steven c newman]

Soak them in white vinegar.

[george wilson]

I don't advise soaking them in vinegar either. Can cause hydrogen embrittlement. Do what the makers advised,and also use the chalk.

[Richard Verwoest]

Feel free to Patrick. Last time I checked, wood catches fire pretty easily. I was not suggesting to heat the rasp until cherry red. Just enough to burn out the little bit of leftover dust. And if that little bit of heat were to damage the rasp....does not seem worth the money for the rasp then.

Richard

[george wilson]

The exceedingly thin cutting edges of the rasp would very quickly lose their temper before the wood had time to start burning. Even 400º would damage the temper of the rasp's teeth. PAPER burns at OVER 400º.More like 600º. What does ebony ignite at? That rasp is not made of high speed steel,which is tempered at about 1000º.

There is more than dust in the teeth. It is impacted ebony.

Careful thought and actual experience needs to be exercised when advising someone what to do with their $80.00 rasp.

All files and rasps are essentially made of the same stuff: high carbon steel. The $5.00 file and the $80.00 rasp are made of it. The difference in price is the amount of labor it took to create the tool. Hand stitched rasps take more work to make than files with machine made teeth. Hand stitched rasps are more desirable than machine cut ones since their teeth are more randomly cut,and leave a smoother surface.

Therefore,care must be exercised in never overheating these tools.

[Richard Verwoest]

To clear the air, I did not advise in doing so. I asked.

Richard

[george wilson]

Don't you think that asking questions like that might tend to give someone ideas?

[Richard Verwoest]

At this point, I doubt you want to hear what I think. For those still reading this thread, I retract my question. Enjoy "your" forum.

Richard

[Matt Lau]

Richard,

Don't take things too personally. Generally, posters have to "prove" themselves with good posts over years before people pay attention to them.

In George Wilson's case, he's possibly the most experienced woodworker/metalworker on the Creek! I'd be very inclined to listen to him as he's likely made similar rasps and possibly ruined more than a few using various methods.

Personally, I try not to post too much unless I can add to it. Looking back at some of my threads, I'd tend to cringe at my ignorance (look up the metalworking in a kitchen thread). Heck, there are very few things that I feel competent to post on--just dentistry and guitarbuilding (and limited at that!).



Julie, as for the other's suggestions, I haven't had the pleasure of owning an Auriou (yet, still considering it). However, I've had luck with using the following: rust eraser and Camelia oil; Sonicare and toothpaste (be sure to oil rasp afterwards. Pumice from toothpaste is very abrasive). I haven't tried using my ultrasonic cleaner, as it may make a huge mess, but I'd likely guess that it'd work well too.

I'd avoid the torch if George says so. For Kutzall Rasps, the torch works fine, as you won't cause any trouble with the carbide particles.

In the future, I'd recommend trying a Shinto saw rasp for any rough shaping. They are remarkably agressive, yet smooth. They're not as elegant as your Auriou, but you won't cry if you get it clogged (by some miracle).

[Patrick McCarthy]

Matt, I think the significant thing re Julie's situation is she was using it on ebony. On my current project (walnut) I used ebony plugs. Although I love the contrast, I was surprised how "soft" the ebony seemed to the rasp and how "smeary" the shaving/dust/grindings are, especially when sanding. The ebony seems to pack into the teeth and hold on; the walnut easily falls out or can be brushed (sideways) away. I noted a lot more ebony build-up than expected.

I might try compressed air tonight . . . 95-100 psi ought to move it out . . . . .

[Joel Thomas Runyan]

I mist my files and rasps with water, the impacted wood swells in under a minute and is easily removed with an old synthetic paint brush. Dried and then a light coat of oil. Soaking in oil seems messier than necessary. Cleaning a rasp with metal in any form doesn't make much sense to me.

[Hilton Ralphs]

I'd like to advise you to not buy any expensive hand made rasps made I THINK in Chezscholovikia(SP?) from Luthier's Merchantile.


At this point, I doubt you want to hear what I think. For those still reading this thread, I retract my question. Enjoy "your" forum.

Richard, you may or may not know as much about tooling as George but on the up side you could always whip his raspy arse on a history or spelling lesson.

[Julie Moriarty]

I took the advice I got from Mike Hancock from Forge de Saint Juery (Auriou Toolworks). I didn't have a receptacle for soaking the rasps (something long but with a small diameter - less oil needed) but I did dip them in a bottle of Camelia oil and then wrap them and set them down to give the oil a chance to soak in. Only the curved sides of the rasps were a problem. Then I took a stiff brush and first brushed away from the direction the stitch was made, then 900 to that direction. That worked better than no oil at all but there were still bits of ebony AND maple embedded deep in the stitching. It's amazing what you see under magnification.

So I used an X-Acto knife and a safety pin to dig out the remainder, being careful to avoid the cutting edge of the stitches. It took about 3-4 hours. They are much cleaner now but I can still see tiny bits of ebony and maple in the deepest depths of the stitches. I doubt they will affect the cutting efficiency of the tools but they may attract some moisture so a final coating with oil after use, as Hancock recommended, is probably a good practice.

FWIW, I have a 9 grain cabinetmaker's rasp and a 10 and 15 grain modeler's rasp. There was no getting the X-Acto knife tip or the tip of the safety pin into the recessed of the 15 grain rasp so I had to rely on just oil and a brush.

[george wilson]

Hilton,I admitted I couldn't spell the country in question. What else is wrong with my spelling,or my history? Actually,I had 40 years of classes in history of America . We were always attending classes in the museum. They maintained an ongoing education program for all employees who met the public so that wrong information would not be imparted to the guests. Not all of the employees had college degrees.

Julie,I wouldn't worry about the tiny bits of wood you can see under magnification. And,unless your shop is very humid,I doubt the rasp would suffer from rusting due to a little wood.

If you would lightly oil the rasp before use,it would help keep the chips from getting so embedded. Machinists often oil their files before use,to prevent filings from getting built up in their teeth.

I was certain that you would not take a torch to your rasp!:)

[Hilton Ralphs]

Hilton,I admitted I couldn't spell the country in question. What else is wrong with my spelling,or my history? Actually,I had 40 years of classes in history of America .

Just messing with you George. Czechoslovakia no longer exists as it split into two countries in 1993. I'd rather have your wisdom and knowledge with spelling errors rather than the other way around.

[george wilson]

Well,it's hard to keep up with the ever shifting countries in that area. Not my biggest interest,though the Czechs make great guns,I understand!:)

[David Ragan]

I took the advice I got from Mike Hancock from Forge de Saint Juery (Auriou Toolworks). I didn't have a receptacle for soaking the rasps (something long but with a small diameter - less oil needed) but I did dip them in a bottle of Camelia oil and then wrap them and set them down to give the oil a chance to soak in.

A couple of years ago, I took a piece of 2" PVC with an end cap and filled with Camelia Oil, then made a little drain pan to set it in after the soak to catch the oil.

[Tom Vanzant]

... the Czechs make great guns,I understand!:)
yes they do/did. My BRNO VZ24 Model 98 still shoots <2" groups at 300 yds.

[John T Barker]

One possibility that can't cause any problems that chemicals might would be vibration. Leave it in a spot that vibrates from a large motor and see if they work loose a bit.

[John T Barker]

Well,it's hard to keep up with the ever shifting countries in that area. Not my biggest interest,though the Czechs make great guns,I understand!:)

Interestingly some of the best tanks to see use in the panzerkorps of early WWII were Czech made.

[george wilson]

Those Nazis made the Czechs make all kinds of stuff for them. Mitchell Guns keeps selling unissued Czech Mauser rifles,complete with cleaning kits and all accessories.

I don't suppose Julie has an ultrasonic cleaner? That would be a great way to clean her rasp out. Just don't lay the rasp flat on its teeth.

[Julie Moriarty]

I don't suppose Julie has an ultrasonic cleaner? That would be a great way to clean her rasp out. Just don't lay the rasp flat on its teeth.

I do but it's for jewelry. And it's made out of plastic. By the time this thread is done, I'll bet the SMC brain trust will come up with a good shop-made design.