replacement motor for unisaw

[Mike Kees]

Has anyone ever installed a motor from Grizzly on a Delta Unisaw? I was just looking at their website and the motor for the1023z looks exactly like the unisaw motor, brackets and all. I just aquired a unisaw with a three phase motor that has a rough spot in it when I spin the shaft by hand. It sort of clunks when I turn it. What would be any other sources for a new motor? Thanks in advance for any help.

[Dave Cav]

Before spending a lot of money on a new motor have you considered opening it up and replacing the bearings? Three phase motors are really simple, just a rotor and a couple of bearings.

[Mike Kees]

No I had not thought of that... Thanks for the suggestion. I dont have three phase power available in my current shop ,so i guess i am wondering if a phase conversion set-up would be cheaper than a new motor?

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Also check with local motor rebuilders in your area.

[Allan Speers]

No I had not thought of that... Thanks for the suggestion. I dont have three phase power available in my current shop ,so i guess i am wondering if a phase conversion set-up would be cheaper than a new motor?


That's a tough call. That motor could have been dropped, so check that the arbor isn't bent. If that's OK, and all you need is bearings, I think it's a no-brainer.

Advantage of rebuilding the motor and getting a $200 Teco VFD:

No need for a mag switch. - But you probably already have one. If you DON"T, then the 3ph + VFD thing makes a lot of sense. (You can sell that existing mag switch, or use it on a different machine.)

No need for a GFI outlet. Again, you probably already have one.

No need for a new ac run to your wall outlet. 1-phase requires thicker individual wires, and money is money.

Soft Start - not a big help with a TS.

Dynamic braking. - Now we're talking useful features!

Vari-Speed: Possibly useful if you ever need to cut metal on your TS, though don't plan on dropping more than 20% unless you have a motor specifically rated for inverter duty.

And last: 3 ph motors are simply more reliable.

[Harold Weaver]

Mike, I have replaced both a Unisaw motor and a PM66 motor. Bought both machines at dime store prices since they were 3 phase. The motor swaps are easy. I got both motors from www.electricmotorsite.com. Web site for Hollar Electric out of Wisconsin, I believe. Great people to deal with, good shipping and well packed. They sell Leeson and Baldor motors. The Unisaw motors are all Leeson. Much better than anything Grizzly is going to get you from Chaiwan. Check them out, you won't be disapointed. They can also set you up with Seimans Furnas mag starters and heaters for your new motor should you need them.

[mark kosse]

if you have and metal fabrication skills you can build a mount to adapt any 56 type frame to a unisaw. I built one to run a smaller motor for a while while I had limited power available. there is a diagram over on vm.

Here is a link

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/UnisawAlternateMotors.ashx

[Mike Kees]

Hey Mark that is a great idea, I have a 2 h.p. baldor that I could do this bracket thing with. I also have a mig welder . If i weld direct to the motor what do I have to do so I don't wreck anything? When you made your bracket did you weld direct to the motor or do the bolt on one?

[Rick Lizek]

How many hp is this 3 ph motor. I'm willing to bet new bearings and a vfd is cheaper than a new single phase motor. When will folks learn more details is what is needed to be a proper post.
http://www.factorymation.com/Products/FM50_230V/
3 up vfd $189

[Dick Brown]

I have just replaced a 3 ph. on a Uni with a 1 ph. Took the mounts off the 3 ph. and 1 ph. and welded the 3 ph. mounts directly to the 1 ph. Takes a bit of care to get them positioned just where they need to be. Then "Cold Weld" them in place. Just weld a very small weld at a time, move to another spot, etc. to keep from over heating any one area. One thing you need to watch for when positioning the mounts is the capacitor and the connections box that they will clear the cabinet through the full range of positions of the motor. I had to take the capacitor off my motor and mount it to the cabinet as there wasn't clearance enough for it and the connections box any place I put the mounts without whacking on the cabinet. No problem with moving the capacitor as there are just the two wires and doesn't matter which goes where. If your motor has both a start and a run capacitor, and you should have to move them make sure you keep the right ones for each. Interesting site Mark referred to. Looks like a good way to go but with the clearance issues in mind.