Matthew N. Masail
07-04-2015, 2:21 PM
So as promised here are a few pics of the Wenge smoother. I actually found it a nice wood to work, no tear out and beautiful finish. it is very hard to thickness by hand but that's about my only complaint.
I wouldn't use face grain as a sole! but the quarter sawn side face is very consistent. I soaked it with some CA glue once the plane was made and it soaked in very nicely, made a glass like sole.
it glued up amazingly strong, no worries there, all in all, I like this wood! Interestingly it's not as heavy as it is stiff and hard, I will use it is the future but more decoratively then a stand alone wood I think.
it has a 5mm thick high carbon steel blade bedded at 50. very tight mouth but will still take medium-thick shavings.
Since all the talk about the use of a chipbreaker with a 45 degree double iron, a single iron plane may seem inferior, but the truth is I still do 85% of my planing without the chipbreaker set to "combat mode" so this makes a very comfortable general use plane.
316770316771316772
Next in line is a Teak 20" Try plane with a 2 3\8 modern Iron, I have another in the making with a vintage iron. I know the tote can be more graceful near the front but I needed it quick as a user for work and I didn't have much time so I left it as it is. I used it on the bench top and it worked a treat, yey! (-: I think I'm finally getting somewhere with the balance of these planes. Wedge is eucalyptus, tote is mahogany and is pinned with a 3\8 eucalyptus dowel from the side for added security. the sole is scrapped slightly hollow like the japanese and also soaked with some CA glue, then oiled and waxed. this makes the sole much harder wearing and lasts for at least 4 flattenings so far with one of my user planes.
Edit: forgot the mention the teak was recycled from a piece of furniture found in the trash, hence the small "inlay" in the back to conceal the former grooves...
316773316774316775
I wouldn't use face grain as a sole! but the quarter sawn side face is very consistent. I soaked it with some CA glue once the plane was made and it soaked in very nicely, made a glass like sole.
it glued up amazingly strong, no worries there, all in all, I like this wood! Interestingly it's not as heavy as it is stiff and hard, I will use it is the future but more decoratively then a stand alone wood I think.
it has a 5mm thick high carbon steel blade bedded at 50. very tight mouth but will still take medium-thick shavings.
Since all the talk about the use of a chipbreaker with a 45 degree double iron, a single iron plane may seem inferior, but the truth is I still do 85% of my planing without the chipbreaker set to "combat mode" so this makes a very comfortable general use plane.
316770316771316772
Next in line is a Teak 20" Try plane with a 2 3\8 modern Iron, I have another in the making with a vintage iron. I know the tote can be more graceful near the front but I needed it quick as a user for work and I didn't have much time so I left it as it is. I used it on the bench top and it worked a treat, yey! (-: I think I'm finally getting somewhere with the balance of these planes. Wedge is eucalyptus, tote is mahogany and is pinned with a 3\8 eucalyptus dowel from the side for added security. the sole is scrapped slightly hollow like the japanese and also soaked with some CA glue, then oiled and waxed. this makes the sole much harder wearing and lasts for at least 4 flattenings so far with one of my user planes.
Edit: forgot the mention the teak was recycled from a piece of furniture found in the trash, hence the small "inlay" in the back to conceal the former grooves...
316773316774316775