finish suggestions for white oak coffee table?

[Mike Allen1010]

I'm building a white oak coffee table and I would really appreciate any advice about how to get a durable finish that will look decent and stand up to wear and tear, alcohol spills etc.

I haven't worked with white oak before and am wondering if I need to "fill the grain" as part of the finishing process? If yes, can I fill the pores with by using 400 – 600 grit sandpaper to sand inan oil/varnish mix or do I need to use a dedicated grain filler?

If I use an oil varnish blend for ease of application, bringing out the figure (Watco etc.), what should I use as a final surface finish to provide some depth and durability? My usual go to finish is shellac. I love the look, but I don't think it's durable enough particularly with the potential for spilled alcohol etc.

I very much appreciate any advice and suggestions!

Thanks in advance,

Mike

[Gene Davis]

If it is quartersawn, consider doing the mult-step Jeff Jewitt method of closely matching one of the Stickley finishes.

For the deep red-brown Onandaga finish, begin by dying the wood after sanding to 320 grit. Use TransTint's red-brown. When dry, wipe on a coat of General Finishes Seal-A-Cell, then let dry overnight. Stain next using GF's gel stain, in the Georgian Cherry color. Apply and wipe well to remove all excess. To finish, use GF's Arm-R-Seal satin, wiped on. Three to five coats. Always stir well to ensure the satin look.

Some do this but use Arm-R-Seal gloss for all but the final coat.

Somewhere, I forget where, but it is online, Jewitt lists the dye and stain colors for other of the Stickley finishes. To see them, download the Stickley catalog, and you can see them there. A nice collection of Arts and Crafts and Mission-style finishes, on white oak, quartersawn white oak, and cherry.

Edit: Found it and it is here. http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mission_oak_rev1-2011.pdf

There are online how-to sessions, and YouTube videos showing all this. A current publication from Taunton, Fine Woodworking, Making Arts and Crafts Furniture, has this shown step by step in the finishing chapter.

I have done it recently for various pieces, including dining and cocktail tables. It is beautiful, and quite durable.

[Dan Wiese]

Mike, I just finished a white oak desk/table I made for my wife's art gallery. It was made from 2x12 oak hand rails reclaimed from an old church. Very heavy and dense wood. She wanted it dark and somewhat antique looking. I did fill the grain as I wanted a nice smooth finish but it was a lot of work but it paid off as it turned out smooth as glass. I used some grain filler from Sherwin Williams. The first thing I did after filling the grain and sanding was spray a very light cost of shellack and then sanded with I believe 320 grit. Next I applied a coat of black transtint dye mixed with alcohol (wiped on). That darkened the grain but not as much as you would think. Then I applied several light coats of general finish Java gel stain. It can get kind of streaky if you don't have your applicator lightly soaked in mineral spirits. I just used an old t-shirt for this. For the topcoat I used general finish arm-r-seal satin wiping on 4-5 coats. It is very thin varnish but again I used a lightly mineral spirits soaked t-shirt to apply it to keep the streaks to a minimum. First time I have used this but it did a nice job. I have heard it should be durable but only time will tell. Here's a not so great picture of the table. Still not 100% done as I brought it indoors to finish it up. Wife is pleased so far. 316444

[Kent A Bathurst]

Gene is dead-nuts.

Jeff's recipe is great....got lotsa stuff to prove it - over many yrs, u can do different, but not better.............

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks Gene and guys,I super appreciate the advice!

I'm through the first two steps and getting ready to apply the gel stain. One challenge for me is I'm trying to inlay a Compass rose with lighter color, contrasting woods in the table top and I don't know how to avoid contaminating the lighter color Inlay with the gel stain.

I waited until after I applied the dye to do the inlay, but still need to apply the Seal -a Cell and then the gel stain. Will the Seal a cell help Will prevent the inlay from picking up the color of the gel stain? I guess I could try and mask off inlay real carefully, do the gel stain everywhere and then touch up with a small brush gel stain around the inlay – what you think?

Thanks again I really appreciate the help!

All the best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks Gene and guys,I super appreciate the advice!

I'm through the first two steps and getting ready to apply the gel stain. One challenge for me is I'm trying to inlay a Compass rose with lighter color, contrasting woods in the table top and I don't know how to avoid contaminating the lighter color Inlay with the gel stain.

I waited until after I applied the dye to do the inlay, but still need to apply the Seal -a Cell and then the gel stain. Will the Seal a cell help Will prevent the inlay from picking up the color of the gel stain? I guess I could try and mask off inlay real carefully, do the gel stain everywhere and then touch up with a small brush gel stain around the inlay – what you think?

Thanks again I really appreciate the help!

All the best, Mike

[John TenEyck]

Once the inlay is done, seal it with a couple of coats of SealCoat shellac using an artist's brush. It's not hard and it will protect the inlay from the gel stain. I put shellac on the maple strip and walnut oysters in this cabinet before I dyed it with Transtint in water. The color of both was unaffected by the red/brown dye.

318152

I didn't use a gel stain on this, but had I the shellac would have protected the inlays just like it did with the dye. The finish was Arm-R-Seal satin.

If you want to seal the dye with Seal-A-Cell, apply the shellac to the inlays beforehand. The Seal-A-Cell won't hurt the shellac. If you put the Seal-A-Cell on first it likely will pick up some of the dye and color the inlays. Your other option is to spray the whole thing with one coat of Sealcoat and forget the Seal-A-Cell. Then apply a second coat of Sealcoat to the inlays with an artist's brush, just to make sure they are well sealed. Then proceed with the gel stain.

John