Mark Taylor2
06-20-2015, 7:50 PM
Hi all,
I'm a wooden model shipbuilder and one your members contacted me over a review I posted at Modelshipworld on this laser. After much discussion, I think it's appropriate to post it here. In my models, I don't use much basswood except for prototypes and making quick and dirty jigs. I mostly use what some consider to be exotic woods, such as: ebony, boxwood, pear, Swiss pear, plum, cherry and a few others upon occasion.
This is basically the same review I posted there, but I'm eliminating the chit-chat and also adding some info that's not there.
I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone. To make it clear: if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else. I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue. So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter. The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing. Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are:
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you.
Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W. Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw. I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM. I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon. CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US. I would suggest you do your homework on this. X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program. In other words, you pay every month for it. I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam. Unpacking is pretty straight forward. I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are. I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket. I’m using a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual. The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house. Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape. Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws. There’s bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power. Not a happy camper using boxwood. The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood. Took 9 passes to cut. Lots of charring.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-27506400-1433985535_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-27506400-1433985535.jpg) http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-23085500-1433985550_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-23085500-1433985550.jpg)
I discovered the mirrors were off. MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful. I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here: http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down… WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
After spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-98476300-1433985611_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-98476300-1433985611.jpg) http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-90944400-1433985638_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-90944400-1433985638.jpg)
I’m continuing to test and massage things. This will take time. I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼” boxwood.
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line. These machines are still in their infancy and not mature. Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler. There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood. Serious experimentation is required.
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean. It is big, and sometimes smelly. It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched. Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb. There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf. I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw. It’s now almost ready for carving. I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing. The anchor stocks I’ve done, would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw. Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces. However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed. No fiddling with the drill press, either. I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go. The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone. If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you. The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out. There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do. There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3. I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with. There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters. However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods. Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc. I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down.
Lastly, tech support. I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues. I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days…
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended. The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer. I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on. Jury is out on this.
Later that same week:
Well... my patience has run out with MM. There will be no more tools for me bought from them. If I can't fix any of the ones I've bought from them, it will be replaced by another manufacturer. As I said previously, I sent an email (posted at the end of this post) on Sunday night. 5 days and no response. I don't believe I was offensive, angry or mean. But no response, not even a "got your mail and we're looking into this" would have been acceptable.
As for the tool in question... after discussion with the Admiral (wife), she calmed me down and got me rational. Rather than starting the whole process over, I'm hanging on to it. I can upgrade when the laser tube dies to a larger power tube. With what I'm using it for, it'll work. I had to do mods to the mini-mill to get to work better and sometimes the devil you do know is better than the one you don't.
I'm not sure there really is a good solution to a hobby type cutter out there for what we do and under $3000 (US). Or at least one that won't require a lot time and energy to set it up, climb up and over the learning curve, and get it properly tweaked. This already has many of the mods that I'd have to source and go through anyway.... 220 VAC power unit, for example. I also know the weaknesses. So I'll put my time and energy into resolving the issues I have left rather than starting over.
Anyway... I won't recommend this tool to anyone because the tech support isn't there. But if you do buy one, be forewarned.
The Following Week:
On the beam/mirror alignment.. I checked the bed and arm with a bubble level to get everything set up. That's what told met bed was off. The link on the mirror alignment... the mirrors should be checked at upper left and at lower right at a minimum.
Yes, this is a modified K40W laser. They upgraded the Power Supply for 220 VAC which why the transformer is needed here in the states and also the mainboard so it would work with Corel. The originals use 110 VAC in an unstable power supply and the mainboard is for MoshiDraw. There are some upgrade parts out there, but the rest of the machine (alignments) have to be spot on and one of the things I'm looking for now is.. do they change?.
In spite of the recommendation not to use an extender, I'm using one with no issues at this point other than it takes a bit longer for a large data file to move over to the cutter.
Thanks for the tip on the water temp... I'll go freeze a jug of distilled water and put it in the bucket. Crickey... 68 degrees max???? We keep ambient here in the house at 71 degrees. Did tech tell you this or did you find it out on your own? (Note: I found out later from the MM Tech Support that 78 degress max. is ok).
It's nice to know that I'm not the only one with an upside down lens. I'm still looking for a better lens as I'm pretty much convinced that this is a cheaply made one.
I can currently manage up to 3/32" without a major headache and 1/8" with trial and error. I'm using cherry and boxwood currently since boxwood is the tough nut to cut. The biggest problem is working out the power settings and speed and then number of passes. Once I sort out 1/8" to where I'm happy, I'll shoot for 3/16". That may not be doable without an upgrade to the laser tube. There is a 45 watt tube available but I'm still looking for specs on the power supply to see if it will run it. It might work with the power supply and no increase of power out of the laser but give a longer life at a higher power than recommended for the 40W.
The work is passible for what I intend to do with it. Knowing that I have to allow for kerf and not be in a rush is the key and then sand off the char.
If this goes back, I won't even deal with tech... I'm still on the fence...
Here's a picture of latest efforts. The dime is there for scale. The wood on top is 1/16" boxwood, the middle is 3/32" boxwood and the bottom is 1/8" boxwood. Still a bit too much charring but I'm fiddling. For me, this is a hobby and there's no pressure.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-43030500-1434419854_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-43030500-1434419854.jpg)
A Few Days Later:
Continuing the saga...
I discovered (from another webite... sawmillcreek I think it was) that the lens holder may have issues like the hole between the mirror and lens being too small or off center. It's too narrow or off-center (seems to be a common problem) then the beam hits the sides and power is dissipated and the beam distorted before hitting the lens. Well... mine is off-center about 1/32" or so. I'll be firing up the lathe and re-cutting the opening with boring bar.
My late father-in-law who was doctor before he retired, used to say that a good challenge is excellent for keeping the mind sharp. I'm now thinking he meant a "challenge on the golf course" instead of something like this. http://modelshipworld.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png http://modelshipworld.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png
And for the record, I got an answer back from MM... no inference that they mislaid or ignored the first.... anyway, here it is.. verbatim. I've found lenses on line if I suspect that's what I really need at this point and the water temp is doable without adding ice to the bucket..
There are no lens options available, only factory replacements of the stock lens that comes in the machine.
There is not a manual for the CorelLaser program.
The ideal water temperature is between 70 -75 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should not be allowed to go much over 78 degrees. Cool water can be slowly added into the bucket with the laser powered off and the pump still circulating. To prevent thermal shock and damage to the laser tube be sure the water being added is within 10 degrees of the water temperature in the bucket.
Thank you for your feedback, I have passed your comments on regarding improvements to the LaserKnife manual and asked that our quality control check that the laser lenses are properly installed.
Micro-Mark Technical Service Department
Later the same day
I think.. I hope... this is final test post of this review unless I do something really stupid or find some additional info somewhere. I'll be glad to answer any questions, however and share any knowledge I've gleaned.
The lens holder did have issues. The hole down the middle was burred badly at the top (laser light input) and off-center at the bottom (laser light output to lens) which seems to be a common problem with Chinese made machines. There were scorch marks on the burrs and on the inside indicating that it needed to re-machined and made perfectly round. The unit is aluminum and about 2" inches long. Ok... aggravation time. After a some "calm down and focus" time, I chucked it into the lathe and fired it up. Using a boring bar, I took off about 0.010 inch of material and got the inside perfectly round from top to bottom and the top was de-burred. The beast was then reassembled and tested.
I noticed that the kerf is a bit narrower and that it's cutting deeper into the wood. For example, what took a speed of 12, power level of 9mA, and 4 passes to cut some of Jason's fine euro boxwood that 3/32" thick, I managed to get up the speed to 16, keep the power the same, and only 1 pass. Similar results on 3/16" thick Castello (not the euro) and for the first time, I managed 1/4" Castello. Took 4 passes but it I was happy since previous tests, I gave up after 6 passes at a slower speed and higher power.
On a side note, Boxwood is the toughest wood to cut from what I've seen. Euro box seems harder to cut than Castello with a laser. Maybe in the next couple of weeks, I'll try some ebony which should be interesting to say the least. BTW, basswood cuts like butter now.
Here's a picture to compare to the previous one at post #24. Less charring and a cleaner cut. I went for broke on the photo and using the super macro setting went for the biggest image I could get to challenge this fix.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-32119400-1434595818_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-32119400-1434595818.jpg)
Final Thoughts:
I'm still not recommending it. There's only been two reviews out there.. this one and the one by Debbie over at Sawmillcreek.org. I'll be adding mine there also.
If I had known the challenges I would be facing, I would have looked at a different machine AND a different company.
Since my scale of choice is 1:64, I seriously doubt I'll have to cut 1/4" wood but 3/16 is very likely and doable. If my Licorne and the ships I have planned are any indication, mostly it'll be 1/8" and thinner.
Just so you know, here's my final test results as of a day ago.. I just cut straight lines and examined them for the best looking cuts.. minimal char and an even cut top to bottom. I'm pretty happy... all these are on boxwood. I'm going to try cherry this weekend but the settings will be close for that. It think if I fiddle a bit more with the settings, the Arms of France can be better. I would still need to remove the char and do the carving so it's 3D or at least bias-relief (I think that's what it's called).
Wood thickness Speed mm/sec Power (meter reading) Passes
1/32" 15 8 1
1/16" 15 9 1
3/32" 10 9 1
1/8" 10 9 1
3/16" 5 12 1
1/4" 7 12 2
Etching (Lettering) 20 2 1
I never did try a full power cut as I don't want to stress the tube. I'm still not recommending it.. it was just too much hassle and after hearing what Debbie and her husband went through.... I sure as hell wouldn't want anyone here doing that. They've made their decision on what they'll be doing and post it tomorrow.
At this point, it'll do what I want. If takes time to cut a complex piece that's fine. I'm retired and there's other things to do in shop while it's cutting. I took your advice and have a fire bottle hanging on the side. I also picked up an air purifier as there is some smoke getting out and into the shop area. Gotta' keep the Admiral happy.
Oh.. ebony is no-go for laser cutting... the stuff glows like charcoal and doesn't burn through no matter what power settings or speed. It does however, put out a nice yellow flame.
If there's any advice or observations, feel free to post, kick my tail, etc. I'm a real newbie at this and still learning.
I'm a wooden model shipbuilder and one your members contacted me over a review I posted at Modelshipworld on this laser. After much discussion, I think it's appropriate to post it here. In my models, I don't use much basswood except for prototypes and making quick and dirty jigs. I mostly use what some consider to be exotic woods, such as: ebony, boxwood, pear, Swiss pear, plum, cherry and a few others upon occasion.
This is basically the same review I posted there, but I'm eliminating the chit-chat and also adding some info that's not there.
I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone. To make it clear: if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else. I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue. So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter. The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing. Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are:
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you.
Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W. Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw. I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM. I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon. CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US. I would suggest you do your homework on this. X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program. In other words, you pay every month for it. I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam. Unpacking is pretty straight forward. I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are. I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket. I’m using a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual. The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house. Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape. Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws. There’s bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power. Not a happy camper using boxwood. The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood. Took 9 passes to cut. Lots of charring.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-27506400-1433985535_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-27506400-1433985535.jpg) http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-23085500-1433985550_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-23085500-1433985550.jpg)
I discovered the mirrors were off. MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful. I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here: http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down… WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
After spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-98476300-1433985611_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-98476300-1433985611.jpg) http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-90944400-1433985638_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-90944400-1433985638.jpg)
I’m continuing to test and massage things. This will take time. I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼” boxwood.
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line. These machines are still in their infancy and not mature. Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler. There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood. Serious experimentation is required.
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean. It is big, and sometimes smelly. It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched. Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb. There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf. I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw. It’s now almost ready for carving. I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing. The anchor stocks I’ve done, would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw. Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces. However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed. No fiddling with the drill press, either. I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go. The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone. If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you. The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out. There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do. There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3. I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with. There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters. However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods. Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc. I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down.
Lastly, tech support. I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues. I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days…
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended. The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer. I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on. Jury is out on this.
Later that same week:
Well... my patience has run out with MM. There will be no more tools for me bought from them. If I can't fix any of the ones I've bought from them, it will be replaced by another manufacturer. As I said previously, I sent an email (posted at the end of this post) on Sunday night. 5 days and no response. I don't believe I was offensive, angry or mean. But no response, not even a "got your mail and we're looking into this" would have been acceptable.
As for the tool in question... after discussion with the Admiral (wife), she calmed me down and got me rational. Rather than starting the whole process over, I'm hanging on to it. I can upgrade when the laser tube dies to a larger power tube. With what I'm using it for, it'll work. I had to do mods to the mini-mill to get to work better and sometimes the devil you do know is better than the one you don't.
I'm not sure there really is a good solution to a hobby type cutter out there for what we do and under $3000 (US). Or at least one that won't require a lot time and energy to set it up, climb up and over the learning curve, and get it properly tweaked. This already has many of the mods that I'd have to source and go through anyway.... 220 VAC power unit, for example. I also know the weaknesses. So I'll put my time and energy into resolving the issues I have left rather than starting over.
Anyway... I won't recommend this tool to anyone because the tech support isn't there. But if you do buy one, be forewarned.
The Following Week:
On the beam/mirror alignment.. I checked the bed and arm with a bubble level to get everything set up. That's what told met bed was off. The link on the mirror alignment... the mirrors should be checked at upper left and at lower right at a minimum.
Yes, this is a modified K40W laser. They upgraded the Power Supply for 220 VAC which why the transformer is needed here in the states and also the mainboard so it would work with Corel. The originals use 110 VAC in an unstable power supply and the mainboard is for MoshiDraw. There are some upgrade parts out there, but the rest of the machine (alignments) have to be spot on and one of the things I'm looking for now is.. do they change?.
In spite of the recommendation not to use an extender, I'm using one with no issues at this point other than it takes a bit longer for a large data file to move over to the cutter.
Thanks for the tip on the water temp... I'll go freeze a jug of distilled water and put it in the bucket. Crickey... 68 degrees max???? We keep ambient here in the house at 71 degrees. Did tech tell you this or did you find it out on your own? (Note: I found out later from the MM Tech Support that 78 degress max. is ok).
It's nice to know that I'm not the only one with an upside down lens. I'm still looking for a better lens as I'm pretty much convinced that this is a cheaply made one.
I can currently manage up to 3/32" without a major headache and 1/8" with trial and error. I'm using cherry and boxwood currently since boxwood is the tough nut to cut. The biggest problem is working out the power settings and speed and then number of passes. Once I sort out 1/8" to where I'm happy, I'll shoot for 3/16". That may not be doable without an upgrade to the laser tube. There is a 45 watt tube available but I'm still looking for specs on the power supply to see if it will run it. It might work with the power supply and no increase of power out of the laser but give a longer life at a higher power than recommended for the 40W.
The work is passible for what I intend to do with it. Knowing that I have to allow for kerf and not be in a rush is the key and then sand off the char.
If this goes back, I won't even deal with tech... I'm still on the fence...
Here's a picture of latest efforts. The dime is there for scale. The wood on top is 1/16" boxwood, the middle is 3/32" boxwood and the bottom is 1/8" boxwood. Still a bit too much charring but I'm fiddling. For me, this is a hobby and there's no pressure.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-43030500-1434419854_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-43030500-1434419854.jpg)
A Few Days Later:
Continuing the saga...
I discovered (from another webite... sawmillcreek I think it was) that the lens holder may have issues like the hole between the mirror and lens being too small or off center. It's too narrow or off-center (seems to be a common problem) then the beam hits the sides and power is dissipated and the beam distorted before hitting the lens. Well... mine is off-center about 1/32" or so. I'll be firing up the lathe and re-cutting the opening with boring bar.
My late father-in-law who was doctor before he retired, used to say that a good challenge is excellent for keeping the mind sharp. I'm now thinking he meant a "challenge on the golf course" instead of something like this. http://modelshipworld.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png http://modelshipworld.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png
And for the record, I got an answer back from MM... no inference that they mislaid or ignored the first.... anyway, here it is.. verbatim. I've found lenses on line if I suspect that's what I really need at this point and the water temp is doable without adding ice to the bucket..
There are no lens options available, only factory replacements of the stock lens that comes in the machine.
There is not a manual for the CorelLaser program.
The ideal water temperature is between 70 -75 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should not be allowed to go much over 78 degrees. Cool water can be slowly added into the bucket with the laser powered off and the pump still circulating. To prevent thermal shock and damage to the laser tube be sure the water being added is within 10 degrees of the water temperature in the bucket.
Thank you for your feedback, I have passed your comments on regarding improvements to the LaserKnife manual and asked that our quality control check that the laser lenses are properly installed.
Micro-Mark Technical Service Department
Later the same day
I think.. I hope... this is final test post of this review unless I do something really stupid or find some additional info somewhere. I'll be glad to answer any questions, however and share any knowledge I've gleaned.
The lens holder did have issues. The hole down the middle was burred badly at the top (laser light input) and off-center at the bottom (laser light output to lens) which seems to be a common problem with Chinese made machines. There were scorch marks on the burrs and on the inside indicating that it needed to re-machined and made perfectly round. The unit is aluminum and about 2" inches long. Ok... aggravation time. After a some "calm down and focus" time, I chucked it into the lathe and fired it up. Using a boring bar, I took off about 0.010 inch of material and got the inside perfectly round from top to bottom and the top was de-burred. The beast was then reassembled and tested.
I noticed that the kerf is a bit narrower and that it's cutting deeper into the wood. For example, what took a speed of 12, power level of 9mA, and 4 passes to cut some of Jason's fine euro boxwood that 3/32" thick, I managed to get up the speed to 16, keep the power the same, and only 1 pass. Similar results on 3/16" thick Castello (not the euro) and for the first time, I managed 1/4" Castello. Took 4 passes but it I was happy since previous tests, I gave up after 6 passes at a slower speed and higher power.
On a side note, Boxwood is the toughest wood to cut from what I've seen. Euro box seems harder to cut than Castello with a laser. Maybe in the next couple of weeks, I'll try some ebony which should be interesting to say the least. BTW, basswood cuts like butter now.
Here's a picture to compare to the previous one at post #24. Less charring and a cleaner cut. I went for broke on the photo and using the super macro setting went for the biggest image I could get to challenge this fix.
http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-32119400-1434595818_thumb.jpg (http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-32119400-1434595818.jpg)
Final Thoughts:
I'm still not recommending it. There's only been two reviews out there.. this one and the one by Debbie over at Sawmillcreek.org. I'll be adding mine there also.
If I had known the challenges I would be facing, I would have looked at a different machine AND a different company.
Since my scale of choice is 1:64, I seriously doubt I'll have to cut 1/4" wood but 3/16 is very likely and doable. If my Licorne and the ships I have planned are any indication, mostly it'll be 1/8" and thinner.
Just so you know, here's my final test results as of a day ago.. I just cut straight lines and examined them for the best looking cuts.. minimal char and an even cut top to bottom. I'm pretty happy... all these are on boxwood. I'm going to try cherry this weekend but the settings will be close for that. It think if I fiddle a bit more with the settings, the Arms of France can be better. I would still need to remove the char and do the carving so it's 3D or at least bias-relief (I think that's what it's called).
Wood thickness Speed mm/sec Power (meter reading) Passes
1/32" 15 8 1
1/16" 15 9 1
3/32" 10 9 1
1/8" 10 9 1
3/16" 5 12 1
1/4" 7 12 2
Etching (Lettering) 20 2 1
I never did try a full power cut as I don't want to stress the tube. I'm still not recommending it.. it was just too much hassle and after hearing what Debbie and her husband went through.... I sure as hell wouldn't want anyone here doing that. They've made their decision on what they'll be doing and post it tomorrow.
At this point, it'll do what I want. If takes time to cut a complex piece that's fine. I'm retired and there's other things to do in shop while it's cutting. I took your advice and have a fire bottle hanging on the side. I also picked up an air purifier as there is some smoke getting out and into the shop area. Gotta' keep the Admiral happy.
Oh.. ebony is no-go for laser cutting... the stuff glows like charcoal and doesn't burn through no matter what power settings or speed. It does however, put out a nice yellow flame.
If there's any advice or observations, feel free to post, kick my tail, etc. I'm a real newbie at this and still learning.