105 siding

[lowell holmes]

There is a string that's been running in the General woodworking forum. It is concerned with making 105 pattern siding.

The discussion has been centered around router and shaper bits. Also, the difficulty in running long 1X10's through the machine.

I can make the overlap notch on the backside with my LV skew rabbet planes. I could start the cove shape on the front side, but I'm not sure how to put the rounded cove in the resulting rectangular notch.

How would this crew make that cut?. It would be a monster to make with scratch stock.

I'm not planning on making the siding, just curious if it could be done.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have it on my house. Most of the house is brick, but the "bump out" sunroom uses 105.

I needed a few sticks to repair some rotted pieces, and I can tell you how I made it:

I drove into center-city Atlanta to the all-time classic old-line Big City lumber yard: Randall Brothers....bought a few sticks of 6" #105, and drove home. C&Btr SYP. Excellent stuff.

I don't have a big darn industrial molder or planer or planer/matcher, and that is how it is made....a big honking Yates A62, running a few hundred LFPM.......could never come close to touching the price and quality in my home workshop..............

[Judson Green]

What's 105 siding?

[Mike Cogswell]

You can make a jig to cut large coves by passing the boards over your table saw blade at an angle. Fine Woodworking had an article about it a while back, and Rockler makes a jig. The jig is intended for making wide crown molding, so it cannot handle 8" or 10" 105 siding, but you can easily make your own.

[Mike Cogswell]

What's 105 siding?

Type those exact words into Google.

315900

[Dan Hahr]

"Those exact words" didn't come up with anything like that.

Is it a law that you have to trust Google before the various professionals on this forum? I wonder, because I Google woodworking stuff all the time and it usually sends me here anyway....

Just saying... Dan

[Judson Green]

Thanks for the picture.

I'd probably use my Stanley 45 (a combination plane, perhaps with a shop ground iron) for the curvie part.

[lowell holmes]

Thanks for the picture.

I'd probably use my Stanley 45 (a combination plane, perhaps with a shop ground iron) for the curvie part.

That's where my thoughts went, but I don't have a Stanley 45. I wonder if some sort of shop made plane with the curved cutter could be made. I bet George has a trick up his sleeve.

I'm not making any, but it might find some other use. Scratch stock would be an uphill battle.

[Kent A Bathurst]

What's 105 siding?


In case anyone is interested - go here, and follow Standard Patterns. This is for Southern Pine.

http://www.spib.org/about-us/publications

There are others out there for WRC, Eastern Pine, others?

[Mike Cogswell]

In case anyone is interested - go here, and follow Standard Patterns. This is for Southern Pine.

http://www.spib.org/about-us/publications

There are others out there for WRC, Eastern Pine, others?

Well, the picture I posted was the Florida Cypress version and differs slightly. The Western Wood Products specs are the same as Florida Cypress, while the Eastern Pine specs are yet a third time version.

[Mike Cogswell]

"Those exact words" didn't come up with anything like that.

Is it a law that you have to trust Google before the various professionals on this forum? I wonder, because I Google woodworking stuff all the time and it usually sends me here anyway....

Just saying... Dan



i certainly did not say, or even imply, that we should trust Google over the good people of this forum. But if you want an answer to a basic question, Google is certainly the fastest and most efficient way to get one in most cases.

Just saying

[Chuck Nickerson]

How would this crew make that cut

An 1-1/2" rabbet and an 1-1/8" round. To help keep it consistent over a long length, I'd make a test gauge that looked like a scratch stock.

[Karl Andersson]

Back when I spent a few years repairing and restoring several late Victorian-era houses (built 1877-1900), we called that profile "Dutch Lap"- one of the illustrations for 105 list its names as Dutch Lap or German. I've never noticed it on a house earlier post civil war, so it could be that such profiled siding was only machine-cut; all the examples I had to replace had the relief lines/ channels on the back from milling. You could use rabbett planes to make the back rabbett and most of the face "cove", then use a round plane to shave the radiused contour. Maybe a skilled laborer could do it without a guide, or maybe just a chalk line, but it needs to be pretty consistent and seems a lot of labor if doing a whole house. If I HAD to make a few replacements, I'd do the rabbets, then rig up a board as a guide for a round plane if I had one at the larger radius they show in the 105 diagram.
Karl

[Kent A Bathurst]

Well, the picture I posted was the Florida Cypress version and differs slightly. The Western Wood Products specs are the same as Florida Cypress, while the Eastern Pine specs are yet a third time version.

Exactly the point I was making when I referenced the others. I gave the one that applies here in the center of the Southern Yellow Pine basket.

You need to know what patterns "rule" your region. Which is nothing more than a phone call to the right lumber yard.........ask them what book their patterns come from. Or, just stop by.....

EDIT: looking in detail, your post is identical to the 5" southern pine version.

The southern pine version lengthens the curved slop as the boards get longer.

So - it is the same, or it is different - - it all depends...........