2 Questions from a first time chair maker

[Scott Cenicola]

Planning my first chair making project for late summer/early fall. Has anyone used the Bob Settich chair kit?

http://plansunlimited.com/books/build-an-arts-and-crafts-dining-chair/

I normally like designing my own projects, as that's part of the fun for me. Since I've never made a chair before I thought this might be a good thing to try. I saw it at the woodworking show, and it looked pretty good I was curious if any of you have used this plan and what you thought of it.

Second question, has anyone used DSS a #1 southern yellow pine. I went to the only real lumber yard in my area last week, and they recommended it as a hard, tight grain pine. They were yard workers, so when I asked about use for furniture they kinda shrugged their shoulders and said yeah it would be good. I want to use pine for two reasons. I like the price of it being a new project for me, and I also may make a farmhouse table to match down the road. A google search turns up fairly decent information, but I am curious if any of you have used it for furniture projects

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[Mike Henderson]

That chair is very simple. You should be able to build one like it without any plans, or with plans you draw yourself. Take a couple of chairs that you like and measure the seat height and width. With those two measurement, you can build a chair.

The only critical joint is the seat rails to seat back. That should be a good mortise and tenon joint. For the rest of the joints, you can use a Domino.

If you're really concerned about your ability, make one chair out of construction lumber (2 by 4's), then make the good one out of oak (for an Arts and Crafts look).

Mike

[Jim Dwight]

I've made a dozen chairs using a woodsmith plan that looks similar to that one. It is set up for hardwood. I've used oak and cherry. If I was to make the same chair in pine, I would increate the size of the pieces. Pine is not as strong as softwood. I've used it in tables and chests and beds, however, and it worked fine.

[Wade Lippman]

$60!!! Your library should have books with chair plans for free.

I only made chairs once and couldn't find anything I liked, so I kinda merged two plans. We still use them daily after 12 years.

[lowell holmes]

You might like to order Jeff Miller's book or video "Chairmaking Techniques". I have both. If you read the book. you will be able to build a chair. There are joints in the chairs that are not 90 degrees and mortise and tenons to fit these joints requires some techniques. A full size pattern drawn on a small sheet of plywood helps. You will save money and frustration if you order a book.

[Mike Schuch]

I have made a couple chairs of my own design. They all turned out incredibly sturdy and damned uncomfortable! I would recommend using plans from someone that has already made all the mistakes for you.

[Michelle Rich]

try one first out of cheap wood..make your mistakes there, then make a keeper out of oak, or other hardwood. Pine is too soft to make joinery that will withstand the abuse chairs get. I think 60.00 is a steep price to pay. If you live in a big city, go to your library and see if A&C books there, or ask them to get for you.

[lowell holmes]

I have made a couple chairs of my own design. They all turned out incredibly sturdy and damned uncomfortable! I would recommend using plans from someone that has already made all the mistakes for you.

That's why I recommend the book. Jeff's chairs are comfortable.

And Michelle, I have made six rocking chairs for my grandchildren to be rocked in. The price of the wood in those chairs was several hundred dollars each. It takes about 40 board feet and at $6-$8 a board foot, it adds up. Your right, if your going to build a chair, you need a good design. My rocking chairs are bases on a Paul Sellers design.

[Bill Rhodus]

If I were starting to build chairs for the first time I would use pine, or better yet, poplar for the first one. I used my first chair around the burn barrel because I did not like the geometry of the chair. The fit of a chair is more personal than any other type of furniture I can think of and I guarantee you will build your first one and want to tweak the design to suit what you like. Also, I would prefer the poplar over the pine because it is easier to work with and will feel similar to the cherry or walnut you are likely to use for the keeper. Pine tends to splinter badly and you will have to keep any tools for working end grain very sharp.

[Jim Matthews]

Not to be flip, but I've seen lots of chair makers
mock up a new design from insulating foam board.

Were I beginning this project, and using the templates
provided, that might be a light approach.

While foam board isn't structurally sound, you can
practice laying out mortises, visualizing angles, etc
with something that's relatively cheap.

While I like pine for flat surfaces, I'm not sure it's ideal
for something that will have large lateral forces, like a chair.

You've got a woodworking school in your neighborhood,
I would start there.

http://franklinstreetfw.com/

http://www.woodfinder.com/search.php

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmillwork.com/

[Bill Rhodus]

The point Jim makes about lateral forces is the key to your question; you would not want to make a "keeper" out of pine. Even when using a hardwood for an important project, you will want to use a good straight grained wood.

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Jim, a school is a good place to go.

If you view Frank Klausz's video on Mortise and Tenon joinery, he covers making chairs as well.

I started at a Paul Sellers class on rocking chairs.

Jeff Miller covers making mock-ups in his book.

You can start by lofting a full sized plan of the chair on a small sheet of plywood. You can then pick the size and geometry of the various components from the plywood.

[Jim Matthews]

... start by lofting a full sized plan of the chair on a small sheet of plywood. You can then pick the size and geometry of the various components from the plywood.

That's the way the Big Dogs do it.
Layout for multiple dining chairs is easier,
when they all come off the same plan.

[Mike Henderson]

You might like to order Jeff Miller's book or video "Chairmaking Techniques". I have both. If you read the book. you will be able to build a chair. There are joints in the chairs that are not 90 degrees and mortise and tenons to fit these joints requires some techniques. A full size pattern drawn on a small sheet of plywood helps. You will save money and frustration if you order a book.
Lowell is correct that most chair seats taper on the sides so the back of the seat is narrower than the front. And that makes the joinery a bit more complex. Note that the plans you pointed to do not do that - the seat is square which makes the joinery pretty simple.

But we're accustomed to seeing chairs with tapered seats. You could make your first one with a square seat and then make one with a tapered seat later.

Mike